roxtar

that could just be oil burning. the important thing to note is whether it smells like burning oil or burning coolant. plus, burning oil will be slightly blue/grey whereas coolant will be almost pure white. i hope all this helps man, btw, since no one has said it yet.... welcome to the board

a compression test uses an air pressure gauge and a hose that has a tip on it that will screw into the spark-plug hole in the cylinder. there are kits available for doing this ($30 or so). you screw the end into the cylinder where the spark plug should go and then crank the engine watching the pressure gauge. i'm not sure what the numbers should be but the forum has a cool little search feature up at the top that should help you find that information. here is a compression test kit at autozone ($25) http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=C001&UserAction=performMoreDetail&Parameters=TRUE%7C%7EScanners+%26+Testers%7C%7ENONE%7C%7ECompression+Tester+Kit%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7E487835%7C%7E2034%7C%7ECP7827%7C%7ENONE%7C%7E%2424.99%7C%7ENONE%7C%7ENONE%7C%7ENONE%7C%7ENONE%7C%7E1.05%7C%7EEA%7C%7EB%7C%7EACM%7C%7Etrue and a better one ($40) http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=C001&UserAction=performMoreDetail&Parameters=TRUE%7C%7EScanners+%26+Testers%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EProfessional+Compression+Tester%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7E347021%7C%7E2034%7C%7ECP7828%7C%7ENONE%7C%7E%2439.99%7C%7ENONE%7C%7ENONE%7C%7ENONE%7C%7ENONE%7C%7E1.45%7C%7EEA%7C%7EB%7C%7EACM%7C%7Etrue check out this thread, it might be helpful http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21068&highlight=compression+test

that kind of repair is gonna cost a lot more to fix than the car is probably worth (depending on how much you value your vehicle). Before you write it off completely, you might want to go ahead and do a compression test. that will tell you one way or another if your engine is toast. one more thing, if exhaust is getting into the coolant, then coolant is getting into the exhaust. when it's running, does the exhaust have that sicky-sweet coolant smell? is there a fair amount of steam in the exhaust?

don't know exactly where the thermostat is, but here are some other things to check that can cause an overheat or rule out your cracked block. first to rule out a cracked block. 1.) look for oil in the water or vice versa, 2.) do a compression test on all cylinders these will tell you if you have a cracked block, blown head gasket, bad piston rings etc other causes of an overheat 1.) bad radiator cap causing loss of presure in the coolant system making your coolant boil at a lower temp triggering the overheat 2.) blockage in the coolant system / radiator restricting flow of cold coolant from the radiator getting into the engine. (also maybe the cause of the coolant gurgling out of the rad so quickly) 3.) low antifreeze/water ratio (should be 50/50) making your coolant system less efficient. what i would suggest is that you first replace the thermostat (like you've been trying to do) but at the same time, completely flush the coolant system. this is covered in the first chapter of your haynes manual. also, keep in mind that I AM NOT A MECHANIC! the stuff that other people on here tell you will probably be more accurate than what i can tell you. most of my experience is on big, old V8's and i've only learned stuff about subarus by working on mine.

people are gonna see subaru.... 195,000 and click to see wtf is going on. the poster just did this as cheap advertising, he probably does not expect to sell with this auction, just generate some interest in his dealership

whoa, that things gotta at least have a turbQ in it. where did you get an advance version?

turbP is just as good as turbO, in fact it's better, it's one more than turbO. i can't wait for the turbQ's to be released:banana:

you're right, the 77 lincoln was a ford 460 big block. my dad used to drive nothing but 78 towncars. gained most of my ability as a mechanic (which is not too much) working on those cars.

reminds me of that time my crap little loyale smoked a camaro z28:grin: of course it was going uphill on ice and i was in 4wd but it did happen

mine needs a little bit of repair, but still kinda works. i always just drive with the windows down even in cars that have AC though. what size belts to you need to run if you get rid of the AC compressor? any significant wiring changes that have to be made?

curses! all was going well. fan was off, water pump pulley was off, left t-belt cover was off, center t-belt cover bolts were out....... wait, this goes around the crank shaft pulley? ok. i'll take the pulley off then. its just one bolt after all. i'll just grab my largest metric socket (19mm) and put it on there...... its 3mm too small?!?!??! CRAP! so i had to put it all back together and forget about doing this myself... at least right now. i was going to have to remove the AC compressor too in order to get to the water pipe anyway and i wasn't counting on that either. so its back to watching the temp gauge and keeping the radiator topped off until i can get it into a shop the good news is that the pump turned ok and there was no moisture at the weep holes so i'm thinking my pump is ok and its just the gasket thats sprung a small leak inside the t-belt casing. its not leaking real fast... about a quart a week at this rate but i know it will keep getting faster over time. so i'm no worse off than when i started which is always good (except for the skinned knuckles, stupid radiator getting in my way when removing fan blade)

i also have coolant dripping from my skid-plate. mine is the result of a bad water pump/gasket/o-ring/other. coolant leaks from there into the timing belt cover and then out the bottom of the belt housing. i'm changing the pump tonight when i get home from work. a bad pump could also be the cause of your over-heat if maybe you didn't get the seal quite right.

good thought, that "second radiator" could be the condenser for the AC.

trixie, nice. my friends/family named mine. since i look like shaggy and my 92 loyale and i were always running around getting into trouble of various kinds , its name is Scooby Roo

t-belt snapped perhaps? just a guess but maybe worth a check

holy crap i hate transverse mounted engines! how many hours do you mean by "a day"?

thanks for the info. i've done water pumps before on larger cars with huge engine compartments (77 grand am, 78 towncar) and didn't run into much of a problem, of course the pumps are really easy to get to on a big V8 from the late 70s. the t-belts have about 20k on them but if i've had coolant slowly flowing through the casing they might show more wear than normal so thanks for the tip on checking them as well. probably going to go ahead and replace my hoses at the same time since.... why not? i figure less than $100 for all the parts required.

ok, here is the deal. coolant has been leaking for a while, finally tracked it down. its dripping through the timing cover which tells me the water pump gasket/o-ring/other is leaking so i'm gonna just change out the whole thing as it has a crapload of miles on it anyway. this is on a 92 loyale (ea82, mechanical fan attached to water pump shaft). my question is this, barring major disaster and provided i have all the approriate tools, how long should this take me? can an inept mechanic (such as myself) get this done in 3-4 hours or could it be an all-day affair?

i also advocate the cliff idea. thats what i plan to do with my 92 loyale when it finally kicks (has 272k on it right now) also be sure to take the plates/vin off of it before you do so to avoid the littering tickets

i might be needing one of the standard, crap 13 inchers for my 92 loyale (the kind that take the plastic hubcaps and 4 lugs). let me know if you still have any

me thinks it might be inside the door near the latch assembly. but i'm not sure. if the belt on the other side works, try lifting the handle with the door held shut and seeing if the belt operates. i know the motor for the belts is at the bottom of the b pillar.

just took another look at things and it appears that the CV joint boot is damaged. sooooooo a lack of grease could be causing my rumble. in any case, not good. also, i'm losing pressure on the left front tire slowly so perhaps i bent the rim a bit. so now i'm wondering how long i can drive on that cv joint with not grease in it before it fails on me

ok, if you read my recent threads, you'll know that i have recently had some suspension work done on my trusty little loyale. I just got it back yesterday and it's picked up a bit of a shimmy which i assume is just an alignment or tire balance problem. it has also developed a slight rumble in the front end. It is also dropping speed a lot faster than it used to when coasting (clutch pushed in). the rumble is most pronounced at around 40-50 mph. could this also be part of my alignment/tire balance problem? should i check out the CV joints? where would you all start?

methinks he means the fuel strainer... which is damn near impossible to get to i believe since i think it's actually inside the fuel tank or attached directly to the fuel pump. but don't take my word for it, i know nothing about the model you're asking about

After weeks in the shop waiting for parts to come in, my faithful little loyale will be coming home tonight with a brand-spanking new front left suspension. i guess it's time to go off-roading again and break the control arm on the other side