wagaru

work bench? i thought that was a tool caddy

wow! did u ever determine what the problem was?? im trying very hard to figure out this hesitation, but sadly, im not getting the kind of assistance i had hoped for. through a simple process of elimination, which is the most costly method of diagnostics, i have narrowed it down to 3 things, tps, knock sensor, or wiring issue. i hope thats the only 3 anyway. im a good painter, but not a brilliant mechanic, lol. im hoping that i can get the 250$ tps soon, pricey little critter. im going to test the old one with my multimeter, and see if its working properly first, though... in the mean time, pictures! : subaru was one of the early japanese manufacturers with a built in cup holder.. the mystical zip tie forest, made to widthstand the test of...not alot of time? evil vacuum box of death, now with repairs leaky hose, volume one super clean tb. bad hose, next to good replacement hose. still figuring it out... and as always, anyone with ANY insight on this, please help! foot note: i am aware of the basic shortcomings of zip tie vacuum clamps, and when i got the car there were NO clamps, these were installed as a back up plan untill i could find proper sized ones locally. any posts flaming me for being an idiot will be ignored. now calling me an idiot for something legitimate? totally cool.

well after a few weeks of relative silence, i thought id update on my wagon, not that anyone is keeping tabs but knowledge is power.. i sprung a leak, a big un, on the coolant feed line, to the turbo. so i took her apart again, and swapped out the hose. for grins i asked the guy at autozone if they had it, knowing they did not, and that i would pretty much have to fab one, although cutting a straight hose to length is hardly work, lol. i finished installing the electric fan controller, and electric fan. it kicks on roughly halfway up the temp scale. so far so good. im in the process of wiring in the second fan to the controller and then finishing out the wiring so it looks neat and tidy, as it does not at the moment. by request i have left my jungle of electric yellow zip ties intact, but will soon be replacing them with clamps, they have just been a bugger to find. after a week of good running i noticed the day before yesterday, as i came to a stop at the office, that the temp was slightly above halfway, and that is abnormal, so i checked and the secondary fan was not kicking in. as per the instructions, i put the probe for the temp sensor up high on the radiator, and because it was no longer kicking on, i was left to assume that i was low on water. after a brief walk around on the car i saw the coolant RETURN line from the turbo sort of urinating on the axle, and at the rate it was flowing im glad something else didn't 'splode from a lack of coolant (like the engine). after a day or two of cussing and making odd noises and faces i got it repaired temporarily. i wanted to pull the turbo and swap it proper but the previous mechanic used a nice variety of incorrect nuts and washers the first two nuts came right off, but the third was REALLY on there, to the point where i was concerned about breaking off the stud in the turbo housing. so i stopped short, replaced all the nuts and washers, and will go get proper nuts in the near future, and soak the thing in penetrating spray overnight to break the stuck nut loose..here's hoping... notice there was no mention of a fourth nut? that's because there isn't one always a party in gl land. then i discovered that a large vacuum line was unhooked, so i reconnected it, and after all that, i can safely say that in light of all that ive seen so far, my hesitation is going to have to be a knock sensor or the TPS. im leaning towards tps, but if someone can tell me where the stupid knock sensor is, i'll check it, lol. im getting that jerking hesitation still, and i believe its one of these, as i finally replaced the o2 sensor and though it seems my gas milage went up, im still hesitating.

lol you guys. i said i CAN drive it hard while cold, not that its a hobby. i made note of it to contrast the good running scenario with the bad one. i just want her back to stock. i have had a ton of turbo cars, so i know the game, watch the boost levels, premium gas, warm up cool down, etc etc.. i dont thrash her much anyway. my primary concern is that its running correctly. i always do a cool down on her, and i never just crank it up and floor it. i fire it up a bit before i go out, and then idle down the drive and gently up the street before i get to the fun 1/8th of a mile or so before i hit the highway. were talking about a very short period of time. but u can really tell theres a stark difference in performance between non ot and ot. believe it or not i spend a lot of time avoiding boost to save gas, so not to be coarse, but, id like to get the "dont drive it hard or it e's'plode" posts out of the way, and get to the bottom of it. i had plenty of cars to drive fast and could have gotten another one if i wanted, but i just wanted a nifty subaru to drive to work and back, and im enjoying it for what it is. id enjoy it alot more if i could figure out the dang shuddering when warmed up issue, lol:lol:

i hate to sound like the wet blanket but subaru CAN cut that. just give them your vin, and its less than 20$ i did it on an 89 justy and my 87 gl-10

cmon anybody?? know where the knock sensors are? ideas on shuddering?? did i tap out the resources already??

i have good solid 93 octane in there now. seems to be running a million times better, but i still get hesitation after warm up. i can drive the crap out of it cold and it runs spectacular but when its at ot, its not nearly as peppy and still shudders/hesitates a bit not sure whats going on, still wondering if its related to the knock sensors and if it is how can i tell, and remedy this

cmon! nothin?

im really thinking of getting a starion intercooler and front mounting it, for longevity. every honda on the block will think i want to race them though, lol. i thought about top mount but having that sucker absorbing the heat of the motor its sitting above. thought about adding a scoop but then it looks faster than it is

ok im lost here but i think my issue may be related. can we explain this whole thing a bit more indepth so i can understand whats going on that might be my car's issue

so i was looking over some old posts and i cam across this problem form another member "Have to reopen thread again, the right rotor certainly helped but I still have a bad miss/stumble above 3500rpm, would this be a fuel starvation issue (new fuel pump & filter installed), ignition issue or turbo issue. The reason I say turbo is that I have a smal preturbo exhaust leak and I only get ~ 5psi of boost. This morning I also noted that I could "sneak" up to 4500 rpm range if I kept it from boosting (maintained intake vacuum). If I floor it (full boost), its like I hit a wall @ 3500 rpm and can't accelerate anymore, it just misses and stumbles. Any clues anyone? " quoted from quartus this is pretty much the issue i had/have ish in a nut shell. i could not get the car over 45mph when i got it at first. full throttle an all i hit a 45 mph cealing. i tinkered with the vacuum lines, re checked everything and got it topping out at 75ish. after the work ive done here, im not sure what my top speed is, but its almost driving like a normal car again! its about 90 percent better now, and still bucks a bit but it is driveable. my precat was VERY clogged and also cracked in 4 pieces inside the down pipe. i ran a new system with all new everything and it ran me a cool 300$ im still having a very low idle and some less pronounced bucking and surging, but it boosts MUCH better and is driveable, though not as peppy as i know it should be. i believe that my timing is a tooth off because it feels much like the timing on my impreza did when i set it one tooth off. kinda sluggish to get going then then when the rpms pick up, it seems like it moves better. might be wrong though, it is a low milage motor. the knock sensors came up on another thread, also, could this be an issue?? if so, where are they located and are they readily available. also same question from an earlier post on this thread, does anyone know where i can find replacements for my brittle connectors?? ie: coolant temp sensor, tps, etc etc. any help is good. so far we are making progress, just working out the kinks right now.

and before cranking up the boost research this engine. they are not boost friendly in their stock trim, like say.... a chrysler conquest. those cas can double the stock boost and not hurt anything, but on these, my research suggests that building the motor is nessicary to properly run high boost, and reliability becomes a problem, the higher the boost goes.. my 2 cents

bought a boost gauge, a haden fan, and a kit for the fan, installed a new exhaust system, turbo back, chaged the oil, changed the spark plugs, adjusted the plugs (thanks ricearu). more stuff soon and i have pics now, just gotta get em uploaded

5. Flat rate pay engenders a lack of concern for quality and a sense of urgency in finishing the job and moving to the next. When you pay people based on their speed rather than their experience, knowledge, and abilities you take away their willingness to do things the right way. Flat rate workers are always finding quicker, cheaper ways of doing things - usually at some cost in the quality of the job. quoted from generaldisorder thats the truth man, if you are going to take your car to a shop, know the actual tech servicing that sucker and make sure they know their stuff. i have 2 mechanics i trust and only one is readily available. i have a distaste for the flat rate system for the reasons stated by GD. im a professionally trained automotive painter and i did not specialize in body work because of the need to kick em out as fast as possible. im too much of a nit picky perfectionsit to do that, so i went paint, and pretty much no matter what you do, you have to watch paint dry, lol. i felt that in the end ppl want gorgeous paint and will wait a bit longer for that, if you are in a mom and pop type environment. flat rate makes me feel as if i am UNALBE to provide a truly quality job since i am ALWAYS pressed to go faster. thats why i like my flat rate. they job costs _________ it will take __________ and i'll contact you if something comes up. anyway im off on a tangent. if you cant fix it, interview your new mechanics till you find one with his/her head on right.

that is the hottest xt i have ever seen 10 million points!

nice! have you had a chance to drive it yet??

well well its been a good week for the old girl. she got a new exhaust system from the turbo back. in my commitment to keep her basically stock, i did not go over the top. 2 and 1/4 " pipe all the way back, new cat, eliminated the precat, new muffler (round canister style stock replacement) and a tasteful tip that resembles a stock legacy tip. very conservative looking with a very slight increase in sound which is really only noticeable to the subaru guy. temp sensor is new and working well, new plugs, synthetic oil change, better quality filter, i have a new cd player for her, got my cross badge from pep boys which is the only real custom part i have added, and only to display my faith, it doesn't make me go faster, lol. i also picked up a new O2 sensor and a hayden slimline fan with an adjustable temp controller. i also grabbed some stuff to rewire a lot of the stuff that was wired when i got it, as it was wired a while back and not terribly well. i had a close call on the way into work, where i started to get hot, and we managed to get the temp down before engine death, BUT it happened because of shoddy wiring to the fan. so i will be rewiring that as well as installing the new hayden unit as soon as its a bit warmer. were now in our 3RD!!!!!!! freak snow storm in texas this winter. those of you not from here, its hard to describe how snow affects the texas driver... we have a hard time with water, and it rains like the amazon here in the spring time. were famous among weather junkies for our brutal storms in spring and torrential rains that flood whole towns away sometimes, and tornados and hail etc. and yet somehow we have never learned how to drive in the rain. increase your stopping distance and go slower, not rocket science! but when it snows, even a little, people just find a wall and drive into it. whole school districts close because our educators have realized that no one here can drive in the snow. even one inch of sticking snow will brutalize the morning news casts with school closures and 5 extra weather reports of the ARCTIC BLAST! BLAST BLAST! and its supposed to snow again tomorrow sorry had to go off for a second. anyway shes driving like a champ! but now shes having trouble holding a solid idle. it'll idle but at like 350 rpm, and if you catch it right it'll just die. not entirely sure whats happening here. i know that the plug on the coolant temp sensor was corroded, as was the tps plug and i wish to buy new ones. are these available from a specialty manufacturer? they seem like they would be tough to replace with other 23 year old ultra brittle plastic junk plugs, and new ones feel like a better option. i just need to find them now, so if anyone has a source for these, chime in. i'll post some pics as soon as i get off my bum and take em

it feels kinda slow to rev, maybe its normal with no boost cuz when the boost kicks in, it revs good! lol

so i put it back together and it SEEMS to be ok. i may have left something off, so i'll be praying i did not this evening. it was way faster and the hesitation seems gone. haven't yet gotten all the plugs changed because its night time, and i can't see much so i'll knock them out at work tomorrow. got one in and then the light left me. the ones that are in there are good but they are bosch platinum 2s and i just dont like that in a turbo car i got good ole ngk's, so i think those will do better. v power i thinks, the regular ones were not available. it seems a bit sluggish off the line till the boost kicks in, and i am familiar with turbo lag, but i guess what im saying is, it feels like its still not 100% still, much much better, but still a bit...off. are they all a bit of a slug off the line?

re soldered the wires with the new connector, and re attached the nipple thing. heres hoping it works....

the line from vacuum is from the intake pipe after the air flow sensor, the line out is to a silver line, the one on top i believe, metal and it tees off to something in the tb and then goes onward. not sure still what this thing controls...

!!!!!! >( stupid death box!! the wire broke off at the clip!!!! cmon! thankfully i had an extra connector sitting around, so im ab out to re solder it now on the plus side im making progress:banana: i bought the correct sensor and will be installing it at lunch tomorrow, as i do not have a deep socket here

stupid evil death box has a 2 wire pig tail going to it and the vacuum lines comeing out of it seems to be connected to a lot of stuff. its like a black cylinder inside a metal box/bracket. a hose in and a hose out. no camera atm, but i'd love to kill this death box, as its falling apart at the seams and i have no idea what it does

more interesting details! and questions! question one: where is this sensor located and what does it look like?? question two: are they available locally or is there a special place to get them if they are not. now for the details. when i pulled the over pipe off, the inside of it was spotless, as was the back side of the throttle plate. and everything else for that matter, very encouraging. also, the thermostat was the factory unit, so it was replaced for the sake of preventative maintenece, be as it was decades old i also discovered that the belts were shot and replaced them, and that, wonder of wonders, the fan clutch was totally frozen . because of this constant on, the blades were stressed to the point of cracking, and were about ready to come off, dodged a bullet there, and that MAY explain some of my over cooling issues. though that sensor makes me nervous and id like to make sure i get it swapped while i have it apart. Got a new seal also for the thermostat as well. there's hope yet, but lots of little things to tend to. i broke a vacuum nipple off, so im in the process as i type here of letting the glue dry so it can be resealed and put back on. its on some kind of black box thingy not sure what it does lol:lol:

i wouldn't adjust anything till we discover what the issue is. or you get whats called a "false" idle. this masks potentially harmful issues that will go on hurting your car until something breaks. then you will have to figure it out AGAIN, and have to re-tune your idle...again. when i started restoring honda mopeds and scooters i made that mistake a time or 2, and having it idle perfect in the shop and then give up on a customer 5 minutes after pick up, it was pretty embarassing