screwbaru2

No, but after reading the post after yours it's clear to me that the driveshaft as to be removed for inspection. Gloyale, sounds logical, good advise. thanks Back to the rumble, I have sat in the back seat and listened to the noise. When sitting on the left it sounds like it comes from the right when sitting on the right it sounds like it's on the left, hence my thought about the center bearing. Sounds like for wheel bearings diagnosis I need to be a fortune teller not a mechanic.

Both the tire service station and I have checked the wheel bearings there is no play or noise. The 3.0L equipped cars don't provide the option of FWD unfortunately. I tried shaking/bouncing the driveshaft for play but didn't think about seized joints. I would think that a seized u-joint would have broken after a few months. I've seen more than a few grenade in my lifetime.

So the car has been back up and running for almost a week now. It runs fine doesn't seem to be starving for fuel at any RPM. The issue seems to be intermittent, so now with that and after reading Fairtax4me's post I'm coming around to suspecting the fuel pump. The car was down over the weekend to replace the coolant return pipe on the left side of the engine. What a bear! Had to cut the new pipe in half to install it then re-connect it with a piece of hose and clamps. While I was there I noticed the oil cooler pipe in front doesn't look too good either, not leaking like the return pipe but soon it will. I'm glad it just got hot enough for my wife to notice but not damage the engine. I lost a 3.0 that way last year. IMO those pipes should have been aluminum not steel. Subaruparts4you.com lists the fuel pump check valve separate so it's probably replaceable. However if I'm going to handle an 11 year old fuel pump it's going to be to replace it! I'm going to keep an eye on it for awhile see if the pressure drops, the issues gets stable that is not intermittent, or the time to max pressure gets longer. If any of those things happen or some other issue develops that seems fuel related my 1st suspect will be the pump. Thanks again everyone for the input it was very helpful. Always good to get outside advise from smart people. Sometimes I get fixated on one thing and can't see past it, other ideas help to make me think differently. What does a bad driveshaft center bearing sound like? This car has a rumble in the rear that is not bearings or shocks or bushings. It happens with or without acceleration, coasting in N produces the same rumble as accelerating up a hill. It's been doing this for a few months now without change, it doesn't get worse or break just keeps rumbling. Got new tires and alignment because it needed it, but the noise didn't change. No worn or broken parts were found. Any ideas on this one?

Ever do plugs on an 3.0? By the time I got them all out they'd be dry! Last time it took 4 hours to do the plugs. Mike104 that works every time on this car too. It should not be nessarcy for a quick start. The system should be pressurized. That's why there is a procedure to relieve the pressure. It's a closed system a small pressure drop is fine but not below 10psi on a 45psi system. golucky66, I doubt the pump is weak as it is at the max pressure. A check valve was my thought too. There are a couple of fuel dampers that could leak also. Thanks all

It builds up right away, by the count of 3 it has already peaked to 45psi. Turning the key to start after the counting to 3 with key on produces a quick start. When the key is turned to start right away it takes about the same count to 3 while turning the engine before it starts. I already put a gauge on it over night that's how I know it leaks down over night to less than 10 psi. I'm going to put the gauge on my 2004 3.0 that starts right up and see how much that system drops overnight. So far I've read that leaky injectors may set a code and EVAP leaks will set a code. So neither one is likely for leaking down as no codes are set. It really isn't a big issue as a simple count to 3 with the key on and it starts right up. I'm concerned that it may get worse and possibly strand my wife again. We aren't too fussy about cars, we do however draw the line at getting stuck on the side of the road too often. We both have a 50+ mile 1 hour drive to work so we need reliable machines. I try to make sure everything is right with both cars. Something is wrong with that 2006. I'd like to find out what so I can decide whether she can live with it or I need to fix it. Thank you to everyone that has responded. I usually need all the help I can get.

Thank you very much. The regulator is good! I get 45psi on the nose w/hose connected and 55psi disconnected. That's $300.00++ I don't need to spend! It leaks down overnight to less than 10psi and won't start without excessive turning. A count to 3 after turning the key on, will produce a quick start. Any ideas?

Could someone please tell me the fuel pressure at idle for a 3.0R? Is it the same as the 2.5? I think I have a bad pressure regulator but I can't be sure w/o the knowing the correct pressure. I've looked for the answer here and other places w/o success.

Old post I know but worth bumping. I just told my wife this past weekend it seems the newer Suboos get, the lower the quality seems to be. She as a 2006 OB sedan LL Bean 3.0L. w/ 80K mi. The PS is whining like a baby even after a fluid change. The glove compartment was removed to change the cabin filter sand it's never been the same. Currently I'm trying to figure out what is making that roaring noise @40+MPH coming from the back. It's not wheel bearings both are solid and turn smooth. Nice motor, but the rest is junk. My 2004 OBW 3.0L has almost zero issues. There's a bad ground somewhere but it is a 12 year old car. The cruise control doesn't work well but neither did the one in my 97; doing the same thing in fact. It just turned 150K last week. We both had 2003's that were mostly trouble free.

This has been one giant Charlie Foxtrot! It turns out that it's the rear wheel bearing! I got caught up in a thought process that kept me going after the wrong thing. I did at one point wonder if the noise was coming from the back but didn't actually sit n the back while someone else was driving. After changing the front bearing without a change in the noise I sat in the back. the noise was clearly behind me and clearly a wheel bearing, right side it sounds like. The front bearing change went as to be expected. Broke a caliper mount bolt and had to beat and heat the hub for an hour. The shield got stuck on the hub but a little heat and the hub dropped right out. The replacement went fine. This rear bearing will be the 1st I've done on a Subaru. It looks straight forward enough. Any tips would be welcomed.

How would an appropriate size gear puller work? If it can grab the hub and use the axle shaft end to turn the puller shaft against; it seems like it would work, instead of pressing, pulling. I'll find out this Sat anyway. The hub is coming in this AM a little pricey but what isn't?

Thanks grossgary, I've had similar experiences, in fact this is the 1st time in 20 years of changing Subaru axles I winged a bearing, which is why I was a bit unsure if I was correct; seemed reasonable however. I did have an Impreza axle shaft once that I beat into junk with a 16lb sledge hammer and never got the shaft out! The end was mushroomed to almost 2" diameter! Didn't know the bearing is bolted on! Thanks I wasn't going to check was just going to send it to the shop! I'll check it out now, probably just do as you suggested buy one. This site is the best resource I've found for Subaru issues! I don't always log on, mostly just need to do a little reading and I'm good! Thanks all!

I have a 2006 Subaru Outback sedan w/ a 3.0R eng. 80,000 miles. The drivers side front axle shaft had a ripped boot. I replaced it with a aftermarket remanufactured shaft. The result was a loud whirring, humming noise that starts at 38 MPH and gets loud with increased speed. No change D or N. Tried another remanshaft, same results, Re-installed original shaft the one with the ripped boot, same result. I no longer suspect the axle shaft. Checked the eng and trans mounts as best I could, they seem sound with no excessive movement. Checked the wheel bearing, there is no movement, no play at all. The tire rotates smoothly and quietly although a little hard, that is there feels like there is some resistance. Replaced the axle shaft with a aftermarket NEW shaft. My suspicion is that the wheel bearing is partially seized. I suspect this because I had to hit the outer end of the original shaft pretty hard to drive in out of the bearing. I hit it hard enough to deform the nut I had almost flush with the end of the shaft. Any thoughts, suggestions? Also does anyone know if a 2003 hub/knuckle will fit and function on a 2006?

Thanks Caboobaroo that worked perfectly.

Did stump everyone with this question?!? Nobody knows how to change this back to the way it should be working?

Does anyone know why the lights stopped flashing on my 2004 LL Bean when I set or unset the alarm? The lights flashed for about 3 weeks then one day just stopped. The alarm still works, the doors still lock; it's only the lights that aren't working. This also happened on the 2003 LL Bean outback and the 2003 outback sedan we had, never found out how it happened or how to get it working again. Anybody else have/had this situation?