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and guess what? I asked them about their new up and coming turbo diesel powerplant that they are releasing this year here is subaru's reply to my inquires... "Thank you for visiting the Subaru Web site and for your interest in Subaru products. The plan is to introduce a turbo-diesel powered model in Europe next year. Once this model is on the market in Europe, our manufacturer will review the sales results, performance and feedback from owners. At that time, a decision will be made as to whether or not to offer this model in the US. It would have to be modified to meet the stricter standards of the US government. We do appreciate that you brought this interest to our attention. I have forwarded your message to our Product Planning Department as a suggestion to offer turbo-diesel Subaru models in the United States and as soon as possible. Thank you for the opportunity to be of assistance. If you need any future assistance, please let us know. " product is driven by supply and demand so lets get the word out!!! we want the boxer turbo diesel in AMERICA!!!!

I'm sure you DID check the lugnuts definitively too? intermittant problems are hard to diagnose, but maybe eventually it will get bad enought to stay constant that is the only beauty in a solid definitive symptom.

yep if you smelled eggs that is the key signal of sulfur present. on a side note if anyone is looking to protect their battery terminals from corrosion and to guarantee good connection, vasoline is a great coating to keep the battery connections clean and corrosion free. i have used this for all my life and it keeps things to a squeeky good contact.

check for steam! that would be the ultimate signal as to bad head gasket, and I'm talking about not just the initial steam from condensation of pipes.......let it get to operational temperature and then check for vaporized moisture coming out of your exhaust. if that is present then I would totally pin it down to a bad head gasket.......

well that is a strange one. I am unsure, I trust your judgment that it is not leaking down from top, but in my mind that is the only think I can imagine. a leak from the intake down to the exhaust........I am going to ponder this for a while.......could it leak from the exhaust if the head gasket was the source?

I assume you have asking a question yet I don't see a question mark........but yes it is a plugged sensor right below the t-stat, unplug while it's cold and check the resistance with on ohm meeter, when cold ohms should be in the thousands range, when hot in the hundreds range

High idle when related to fuel injection during cold start. 2 common things to check are the CTS (sensor below thermostat housing in most cases) research cts ohm ranges in forum. IAC (solenoid idle air on spfi) easy to clean expensive to buy. this item rarely fails, I have had luck just cleaning mine. and by clean I get engine warm then hold rpms at 2000 and pour seafoam into the IAC. it will smoke and clean the parts. when it quits smoking the treatment has worked through the system. you should be able to find the related threads on the forum. most likely it's your CTS, check connections, clean contacts, check ohm ranges if I remember around 100 ohms or so hot, 2-3k ohms cold (up to 11k).

well thanks guys, I have a vaguely better picture now. I am just gonna put that carbed d/r 5 speed into the auto loyale without changing the ecu and see what happends. worse case scenario I have a cel light on, big whoop. If it runs, it runs in a perfect world I would like to keep my cruz control and not have the cel on, but we will see, time will tell and experience will be my reward.

dag-on repeat post, I want to erase this second mimic post........

I tried it today (cold start) and after seafoaming the IAC, and testing CTS........car seemed to fire right up and idle very well now......here is what I did, started car with CTS disconnected (ran like crap) for ohm testing, got it warm reved to 2000rpms,.......disconected IAC vacuum lines....poured seafoam directly into the IAC tube, let the smoke and engine work through the treatment............then reconnected the vacuum hoses to IAC........next wait hours to let it get cold. next morn I went to start and car ran like crap.......but I remembered Opps! forgot to reconnect CTS duh.........let it get cold again many hours pass.......wam bam thankyou ma'am the car fires right up well.......so it was either the seafoam treatment or me unplugging and replugging the CTS......i have read some threads that say the contacts on the CTS have made them bad.....so who knows, either way, for cold start problems definitely check CTS or IAC. Clean them, jiggle them, do whatever you can cause those parts cost mega money.

I am wondering if there is a big difference in the ECU in an automatic versus an ECU in a manual tranny. I am trying to understand this neutral switch idea. Ok the only ecu switches from the auto tranny are the inhibitor switch correct? (lets it only start in park/neutral) that can be jumped, rigged, compensated whatever term you want. now the ecu from a manual is supposed to have this mysterious neutral switch for the spfi's. what exactly does it do. I want real numbers......does it modify fuel air mixtures? will it throw codes....the threads say yes, but my mind says no...... will the automatic ecu even have a place for this neutral switch to plug into? does an ecu have to be used from a manual to swap from auto to manual? if the auto ecu does have a place to plug in the neutral switch, why can't I just complete the circuit and make it think there is a switch?.......if all it does is throw codes I'll fake one and hide it somewhere......please someone help me to understand this idea of a neutral switch......i'm so confused. I've read a lot on it and it partially makes sense but something is missing the puzzle is not complete in my mind.

my cts drops to zero resistance when engine temp is running midrange. is that really bad? it does have a hard start problem and when cold the cts reads at about 1500ohms is that too far out of operational ohm ?

yep clean the rust off, either with sandblast or abrasive sanding disks. I don't own a sandblaster so I have limped by with abrasive disks on a drilll, tons of rust chemical applicant, then clean dry and repaint, repeat if necessary, I HATE rust. it's such a pain in the assholomio.

haha, here is a simple word of advice if seafoaming your car with neighbors watching.........do it at night. they'll never know the difference.

I am working on a 1990 loyale with similar probs. it starts cold when I give it gas then idles super low 400rpm roughly 2 minutes later idle jumps up to over 3000 rpms then gradually proceeds to sink back down to 1500 rpms or so till fully heated then idles proper. I believe it is IAC (idle airflow solenoid) or the CTS unsure yet, I'm still working on it, let you know when I know for sure. both these items are very pricey 100 and over 300 from autozone. crazyness

Ok, so when this spfi cold starts up it dosen't want to fire right up like fuel injection should. I give it some gas and it starts well, but then idles way too low like in the 300 rpm range sounds clatty due to low rpm. now after it begins to warm up ( 2 minutes or so ) it still idling low, then it revs up super high like almost 3000rpm next it slowly dies back down to about 1500 rpm through out its warming session, then the idle begins to act normal about ( 8 minutes into it) anybody have an thoughts about this cold start symptom?

any tranny fitting this description is desired by me. I would love to talk specifics with any individual who has one to sell or give away. I may need a few other odds and ends as the current car 1990 loyale is an automatic. let me know gang, send a personal message if ya like

I would like to make the swap in a 1990 loyale from auto to 5speed manual dual range 4wd. currently it is auto push button 4wd. I have been searching the forum for advice on tranny swap probs or instructions. I am in noo really hurry, but what is the best year range I should look for? I guess I'm gonna be looking for a complete doner car as I may need various odds and ends not just the tranny. the auto works fine I just kinda want more range and a lower rpm at around 70 mph. currently it tachs about 4300 rpm at 70mph (give or take) what yall roo-heads think? a lot of the searches I find are different years swap threads, I would like one specifically in and around 1990 model cars.

take your raw hands and rub them really really fast on the valve covers, the friction alone will heat up your block.

well I hope gloyale is right, it does sound like a marriage made in heaven, but if it so kick rump roast how come it hasn't been done before? I mean I just find it hard to believe that alll through the years of diesel production it just wasn't thought of, if it wasn't then damnation, lets kick it into high gear and make tons of diesel powered boxer engines!!!!

that is beautiful. yes pressures will be high due to diesel nature. I pray that this does deliver to my hopes and expectations. This would almost be the perfect engine in my mind. I do believe pressures and head gaskets could be an issue, but with enough design and planning it has to be possible. That is the only weakness that I could see. We just need better gaskets and better gasket surfaces to work with, there HAS to be a way...!

who is gonna get one or does any slick rick out there already own one? I live in america and I hear it's in europe first, you lucky bastards!

well my first was a 1984 Brat. Black in color. was a sweet as ride now that I look back. 4 speed, t-tops, ran perfect. perky little paid for car. I utterly abused that car. I was 16. I constantly did burn-outs......mudding was an everyday affair. I kept mud all over it mostly for the looks. even if I did go mudding and it wasn't covered, I would purposefully throw mud at it to get a good full coating of brown, except for the windshield wiper marks. I jumped it over steep hills, bottomed out the chassis numerous times. broke the axels mudding, completely submerged the engine bay in what I thought was a small puddle, but rather it was a small pond. It ceased to run after the submersion so I pulled it home with chains while it was in gear to "clean" out the water.......at some point the t-tops broke while fourwheeling later and a tree proceeded to grow out of the passenger side from all the rain water and dirt that collected. I believe I ended up giving it away to someone who liked it. poor car, it was running when it left, just abused. if I remember it was at 190,000 hard miles when I gave it away.

from my experience, pb blaster might work, but also graphite powder for locks and such would be a good luby. It's what locksmiths use for the tumble barrels in locks, which are kinda similar to seatbelts:o

get one of those pinetree air-freshners I like vanilla or coconut