abcus

Do proportioning valves tend to go out on these cars? Is there a test for those valves? After removing the caliper I moved the emergeny brake arm on the old caliper and brake fluid squirted out. Why would the action of the emergengy brake have ANY effect on the hydraulic system? Thank you, abcus

I tried to follow a few threads,buy still have questions. I have a front passenger side brake that locks up. The car is a 89 gl wagon 4wd.standard trans. I installed a new mc and bench bled it beforehand, I installed a new hose to the caliper, a new caliper and pretty much the brake fluid is new altho I did not flush it. The rotor does not have excess play in it 6 to 12 and 9 to 3 o'clock. The hill holder cable is disconnected from the clutch fork. When cool,the driver's wheel turns more freely than the passenger's wheel. The emergengy brake does not seem to cause any wheel to lock up when applied and released. Do proportioning valves tend to go out on these cars? Is there a test for those valves? After removing the caliper I moved the emergeny brake arm on the old caliper and brake fluid squirted out. Why would the action of the emergengy brake have ANY effect on the hydraulic system? Thank you, abcus

Dear Folks, I have a 89 g10 wagon. I tried to look up some threads but no luck. I am replacing the master cylinder and keeping the plastic reservoir. I unscrewed the phillips keeper screw at the base of the reservoir. Can I pry the reservoir off without mashing my seals? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks,abcus.

Thanks for the help. I have reason to believe this car was built in Indiana. It has 270,000 miles on it, and they want 800 dollars for it. It seems to have more power than my 87 gl I am now driving with 200,000 miles on it.

Thanks for the info. The radiator coolant was low that may be a red flag. I have not paid for it yet. Thanks miles fox. Abcus

I am thinking of buying a touring 1989 gl wagon. I checked the thread on vin' s. I do not seem to be able to check it on auto check on the internet, it comes back ,invalid vin. The vin is JF2AK53B1KE002534 Does AK stand for touring wagon? Thanks for any ideas.

Thanks for the help. I checked a few things but forgot to check the bushing above the differential. I raised the rear end up and let the wheels hang down. i tried to move the drive shaft up and down. It moved slightly, but there is rubber involved in the central carrier. It was not loose. should I be able to move it up and down at all ? Drive shaft turns smoothly when I rotate it. I can rotate it 1/4 inch before the wheels start turning. When I am at each rear wheel, and I change direction of rotation quickly, I hear a faint click noise. I did the spring vibration test again but did not feel anything this time. If I switch the brake drums, and if the noise does not follow the drum can i "assume" it is the bearing? I know i still have to check out the diff. bushing.

thanks for the help all. I changed the gear oil in my differential. It was dark but I could see through it and I found no filings with a magnet. The noises are still there. I guess the bearings are next.

I have read a few threads under bearings and differentials but I still have questions. the car: I bought a 1987 gl wagon a year ago. It has 190,000 on it now. I had a new cv joint put on the right front wheel and i installed a new rotor also. It is 4 wheel drive. Symptoms: I have a rasping noise that gets louder when I turn right. When I turn left it goes away unless I only go 2 miles an hour. I took a length of garden hose and put one end above the differential inboard . I heard no noise. Then I hung it out each window near the axle. The left rear axle seemed the loudest. When I backup there is no noise. When I run it on gravel in 4 wheel drive going forward there is no noise. When I jacked it up and held the coil spring I felt vibration when I spun the wheel. That brake drum had a lot of black dust in it. The differential was hot after a 60 mile trip. The driveshaft has 1/4 " play in it. The front and rear bearings do not get hot. The noise stays the same in or out of gear w/ clutch in or out. Noise changes a little with application of foot brake. Hand brake does not change the noise. Questions: 1. Should I change the dif. oil ? 2. Can I use a differential from a 87' gl automatic on my car ? 3. Are there any other ways to isolate the problem ?

Dear folks, I have been out of the loop for awile. I will be at Troutdale Chevon at 10 am if anyone is caravaning to w Wcss. I will wait 15 minutes then be on my way. My cell phone is 415 290-8793 Take care, Bob

Dear Folks, I have been out of loop for awhile, but I drove up from SaN Francisco and I am in Portland now, Thurs night. I will stop at Troutdale Chevron at 10 a.m.. I will wait 15 minutes and if no one is there, then I will head for the Show at the fairgrounds in Washington. My phone is 415 290-8793. Take care, Bob

I am hoping to come. I would bring a red 87 wagon 4wd. Anyone coming from around San Francisco, CA?

Thanks for the additional information. I have not made a final decision yet as I have other disabled Rues and swaps to consider. abcus

Well it looks like I am out of luck because it is a Legacy not a Loyale. Thanks for the answers .

I have what I think is an 87 automatic transmission. I would like to put it in a 90 legacy wagon 2 wheel drive . The 87 transmission came out of a 4 wheel drive wagon, I think. I searched the threads under "trans swap" but could not find those years. Would Hollanders manuals go back that far ? Thank you.

Thanks for the help. It did not run better , it just kept running the same which surprised me. It reminded me of the Citreon where you could take off the right rear wheel ,put it in the trunk, and drive away on 3 wheels. Thanks again.

A friend of mine, who has had a few Subarus says the head gaskets,when they go, almost always go out on the drivers side. Could this be true? I just bought a 87 stick,wagon turbo. I think it has a blown head gasket or cracked head. I have just started to look into it. So for I have been able to get it to idle after I disconnected the 2 driver side plug wires. Thanks for reading.

Thanks for the help so far. The guy trying to sell me the car said he bought the car from a novice mechanic that wanted better performance but could not get to run. Once he got it home, he put new a timing belt on and got it running. He claims his son ran it for 3 years. It has been sitting for a year since then.

A guy wants to sell me a 93 Legacy wagon with 77,000 miles on the car. He said the engine has 27,000 on it. It is a rebuilt engine with ej22 heads on an ej25 block. Could this cause problems down the road? Also, could this be a problem getting it by smog inspection in California?

I pulled the electrical connections on the injectors. i could not get no.4 off. With the 3 of them off it ground over more evenly. It tried to catch when I had 1,3,4 hooked up. IT did not get any better when I added no 2 cylinder injector. It does seem to bettter when I pump the gas, but does not start. It did not backfire at first so that must be the gas building up in the cylinder like what was mentioned . Later on there were late backfires even after I had stopped grinding over and taken the key out. I then removed the plug wires from what I call the coil and checked from 1 to 2 position and got 13 ohms and the same reading on 3 to 4. The plug wires tested a 12.6 on the 200k scale. Then I put no.1 plug wire back in place because at one point last week i got it to run on that cylinder alone for a few seconds. No luck. I hooked them up one at a time and it did not start. I have had the car for 2 years and i have not put a timing belt on. B4 that unknown. Radiator cap. Each day I check the radiator and take the cap off and it has pressure so would not that mean the cap was good? The car has not run, would the pressure come from a leaking head gasket and cranking? abcus

The c e light is on when I turn the key on but goes away when I crank it. If and when it runs and stays running, the c e light is gone. The oil was brown and did not have any major smell to it. The oil I put in was thicker than what i took out. I guess I could pour the old oil to another container and see if it was milky at the end. When it overheated I was on the freeway and was able to get it to a gas station in about 3 miles downhill. As i recall, the mechanic kept the car running , sprayed water on the radiator. It must have cooled down, and he safely took the cap off. White liquid came out sprayed over most of the engine. He thought it was the thermostat or a blown head gasket. I carefully drove home 40 miles and the temp. stayed down. The white liquid may have been there when we raised the hood. Now, there is some pressure when i open the radiator cap when the engine is cold. Today: I unhooked the plug wires one at a time and ground it over . No. 1 cylinder did not backfire like the others. It still does not start. Are you talking about pulling the electrical plugs on the ejectors,Nipper?