abcus

I changed the oil and mixed in atf (1 quart). The old oil level was about 2 inches above the full mark. i ran a magnet through to oil that came out ,but not much showed up on it. I could not get it to start up. Maybe it was just luck that it started up after i changed the air meter. To give a little history on the car. I bought it 2 years ago. It always started up rough but smoothed out after a few minutes. It overheated 6 months ago. I stopped driving it. When it stops it thumps. The motor mounts are bad. What I did since last week. new plugs checked ohms on plug wires Changed air meter with junkyard one Questions Are the injectors hard to take off? What else can I check?

I have 198k on it. I am hoping that is a mere pup by Subaru standards. I will change the oil in the morning with a quart of atf mixed in. I like pennzoil 10 w 30. This is the first it has run for awhile since I just put an different air meter in it and got it running. Thanks

I have a legacy 1990 . The engine has a metallic sound in it at idle. It seems to be at the rear passenger cylinder and drivers front area. Could it be a water pump going out. ? It squeals badly as you start up sometimes/ Sorry for skimpy details. i don know the computer very well and get kicked off if I write to much. Thanks for all you guys do. I did follow some threads.

Thanks for the info. I probably will have more questions, since I am thinking of buying a parts car for my other problems. THANKS AGAIN.

How do you releave fuel pressure if you can not keep the motor running long enough to use up the gas?

Thanks to everyone for the help. Things are looking up. abcus

I got everything off on the outside and I am down to the spline going through the bearing. If I drive the pin out on the inside of the axel assembly can I slip the axel back in the direction of the differential so I can get to the inner bearing. Does anyone know of any place on the web with some step by step directions on how to remove and replace rear wheel bearing on an 89 Subaru 4 wheel drive GL? I have looked through the threads here; but I may have missed something. I know just enough about mechanics to get myself in trouble and even less about running a computer. Should there be any play in rear wheel with 100,000 mile on it ? Does the dust cover come off ? Mine seems to be stuck on. Could I have messed up my differential ? I should have changed the bearings long ago. Thanks, this a great website with great people on it.

I tried to find a post with a similiar problem but no luck. i am not the sharpest tool in the shed with computers, so it may be there somewhere. I have an 86 wagon automatic. I got the starter part way off and the guts slipped out. Now I want to get the brushes mounted back the way they were. How can I do that ? Does it take a special tool ? I have big hands and clumbsy fingers. The brushes are there intact, I need a way to hold them away from the axle while i slip it in. Thanks for all you do on this site.

General Disorder, The top bolt was so hard to loosen , I thought I might round the corners of the nut on the bottom if I used an open end wrench but i respect your advice. Would it be wrong to try to short across the solenoid leads to test it ?

I gave up and took it to the shop. At least I saved the core and maybe I can find brushes for the next time. Thanks for the help.

Thanks for the help on the starting problem. I could not get a wrench to take the bottom nut off the starter assembly. Would I get into trouble if I make a direct short from the large lead on the solenoid to the small flat lead, close to it, to see if that clicks only or if it cranks? Thanks, abcus

I bought a used 90 legacy wagon. Can I remove the starter from the top? There seem to be a lot of hoses and wires above it. Does the solenoid come out with the starter ? I was hoping not to have to pull the starter off. This what i have done so far. Problems; The solenoid clicks when you turn key to start position. The key is so worn it can be pulled out of the slot with ease in most any position. Trouble shooting: I cleaned my terminals and grounds. I held the key in the start position for 5 seconds and then felt the terminals for heat . They were not hot. Battery checked at 12.6 v. and dropped to 11.8 v. when I turned the key to start position. I think i remember reading 12.5 v. going from + battery terminal to large bolt on the starter. When I put the brake on there is a clunk in the console. When I run the shifter from park to neutral there is a click in the ignition assembly. I tried to bypass the ignition switch with a wire to the smaller terminal on the solenoid going to the + terminal on the battery. It sparked a lot on the battery terminal when I touched it, but the solenoid clicked. However the starter did not crank the engine. I had the key in the on position. I did not have the ignition wire hooked up at the time i put the bypass on the smaller flat terminal on the solenoid. I tried to remove the plastic covering below the dash and around the ignition switch. i thought I had all the screws out. It would not come loose. I tried to read the threads but there may be some I missed on this website. My thought is since I got a click only with direct connection to the solenoid I need to pull the starter. Is that correct? Thanks for any help. One last question . Do the starter and solenoid come off as one unit?

I tried to find a thread on this, but I am not good on the computer. When I checked the master cylinder it was low.I do not see any brake fluid under the car. The pedal holds up when I push on it.

I just wanted to say the Subaru get together is still on for August 26, Sunday at 1 p.m. at Marin and Indiana in San Francisco, Ca. There is lots of open space on wide streets in the industrial part of town.Bring your Subarus, stories, and shade.Also pictures and videos would be good.

I propose a meet at Marin and Indiana Street at 1 P.M. in San Francisco, California on August 26, 2007. I can buy some ice cream and lemonaide.

I have two 4wheel drive cars. The reason I was thinking about doing it was because the best engine from my backup Subarus was a carb engine. The turbo engine may have a blown head gasket. I will have to do some more checking . I may be getting in over my head. Thanks for help so far, abcusuote=Gloyale]4eat only needs a TPS signal. Nothing else form engine, doesn't *talk* to ECU. No MAP signal( no EA82's even have a MAP, they have MAF's) I'll bet you could mount a TPS on the carb throttle shaft. Carb FPCU? are you talking for *feedback system*? Cause 4wd non-Cali model carbed don't have an ECU at all. High pressure pump would be too high pressure. easy to swap a carb on though. ABCUS, is this car a 2wd or 4wd. If it's 2wd, it has a 3AT, and the swap would be pretty simple. If it is 4wd, it has a 4EAT and would require the TPS to work correctly (although it would still drive without it) either way the Fuel pump is an issue. You could get any cheap aftermarket electric pump. Daeron, no the heads are not the same at all. In fact that's the big physical difference between Turbo(MPFI) and the others(Carb, SPFI) other than the pistons. MPFI have dual intake ports, all others are single. I agree this would be a bit of a waste of a turbo car

I tried to look this up on the threads; but maybe I did not use the right terms. I am thinking of putting a carburated 1986 1.8 liter engine in front of an automatic transmission that was behind a 1989 turbo 1.8 liter engine. What would be the problems? Both are 4 door wagons. Thanks, abcus

[Dear psy, I liive in San Francisco. Do you know of any subaru mechanics in Nor Cal area ? Do you live near SF? Thanks, Bobquote=psylosyfer]I had an 87 GL that the rear door only opened from the inside, Until the child lock (inside doorjam) got moved, then I had a situation like yours. I had to damage the inside panel to repair the problem ( the rod from the outer handle came off) inside still OK with the child lock off.(up position) I replaced the door panel for $20 from pick-a-part. Best advise I have hope it helps!

Thanks for the help, I used a piece of wood under the hood and it worked. Thanks, abcus

I just bought an 89 wagon. Is there a way I can get the hood open by myself? If I had help they could pound on it . The knob inside seems to pull normally. Thanks, abcus

I survived the bill. We got the car running and did not have to do a 200 mile tow. I know on another 86 subaru wagon I had there was a plastic filter near the electric fuel pump near the gas tank. Thanks for the help.

A tow truck operator told me there are 5 filters between tank and the carb on a 86 wagon. Is that true ?

I have been trying to get my 86 wagon through The California smog test. They say it is running to rich. Could I lean it out by adjusting the screw on the front of the carburetur. That seems to simple. One mechanic wants $ 80 to diagnose the problem. They do not think it is the catalytic convertor. The plugs and compression seem OK except I could not get one loose. I went back and tried to read some of the old posts on carbs. The posts made me wonder where to go next. Maybe I should run some carb cleaner through the carburetor, and take it back and try it again. I think it will cost 28 dollars this time to test it. I ran a bootle of cleaner through the gas tank. What would be the next thing to try? Take care, abcus

Dear KStretch55, I ended up getting a rebuilt alternator . The internal voltage regulator must have gone out. The car seems to be working normally now. Thanks to all the folks who helped me deal with my problem. Now, I have to try to get it through California smog testing. Thanks, abcus

Dear A, The guys did try to sell me a new one for 120 dollars.I said it did not make sense since the battery was not boiling and i was having to charge it up every so often. Can not remember the tach flucuating a lot but i do not drive the car regularly.