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I didn't know those things were desirable or hard to come by or I wouldn't have throne the ones off my car away

Before you start hit'in thing stuff with a hammer make sure you you don't have your struts mixed up and have the right strut on the left side and the left on the right, a friend of mine did this once and had the same problem. and btw the struts are labeled with an R or L.

Do you have all the ecu grounds wired up.

Maybe this will help, its how the fuel pump is wired stock in an ea82, assuming thats what your swaping into. And hear is were I think your problem is, in the ea82 system the ground for the fuel pump its self is done though the ecu but this is not the case with the EJ ecu, in the ej system the fuel pump is just grounded to the body. So try grounding the black wire at the fuel pump and see if that works. Also be sure your using the control wire comeing off the EJ ecu to ground the control side of the fuel pump relay. And for powering the control on the really use a hot at all times power source and not the power out of the ignition relay use that on the switched side to send power to the pump. I also suggest you put away the volt meter and get your self a test light its a lot better for work like this were all you care about is 12v power and ground, and will help to keep you getting confused with meaningless 2 and 3 and half volt readings.

Haha, this car has been around lately, I can give you a little history on it as I ended up being around it a bit. I first came up on CL a few months back, some guy in Prinevile had it and had swaped a ej22 into it, I was considering buying it so I gave him a call and found out that he wasn't able to get it run right because the engine wasn't getting enough fuel. My guess is he left the stock fuel pump in it so not enough flow or pressure. I didn't really have the time or space for it so I passed on it. then a few weeks later my coworker told me a friend of his had bought it and ended up swaping in the ea81 out of a GL because he couldn't figure out the 2.2, and now wanted to sell the 2.2 I needed a 2.2 so went to check it out. got a nice deal on the 2.2 and got to see the brat in person, nice car just needed to be finished. The kid that had it got bored with it and I was again given the opportunity to buy it but still no room or time. I was worried about is fate as I saw the price slowly drop on cragslist hoping that some ********************* wouldn't get it and destroy it. So I'm happy to see it on here and owned by someone who can appreciate it. I do fined it funny that it went for a ea71 to a ej22 to ea81 and back around to a ea71. And it looks like it cleaned up nicely from how faded it was when I saw it.

Good to hear, I was going to ask if you were going to make one for the clip in male axles, as thats what I currently have, so glad to see its in the plans.

I agree, 3 to 4 hundred would be my order placed I'm down price but I would consider paying up to the $500 range.

Yes but only on the front, you will need to find something else for the rear.

The single range 4wd 5 speeds have no center diff its just fwd and straight 4wd, the full time 4wd tranys have a center diff that is ether open, no LSD, or locked in true 4wd. So hear is my recommendation to meet your goal, if you are already going to have to install a wiring harness don't bother with the 82t its a overcomplicated mess that dosen't make any power has over heating issues and tends to have catastrophic failures. Just swap in a ej22 and and ej 5speed, this will get you a good awd with a stronger trans and a more reliable more power full engine for the same amount of work.

The clunking is likely your drive shaft binding up from being at too high of an angle, you need to lower the carrier bearing. You should be able to just unbolt it and flip it 180 and bolt back up, that will help level it out.

were did you get these seats at I really like them.

I think you would need to cut in a whole new slot for the circlip, I tryed putting 4eat sub shafts in place of 23 spline MT subs but the circlip didn't make it out the other end of the side gear it sat too far down the shaft, so I think you would need to cut a new slot a little father down the 23 spline shaft to keep it from being loose. And fyi the 4eat stubs I was trying to use were out of like a 97 outback and had the same inner spline count as the 23 spline stubs in the 87 trans so you shouldn't have any problems with inner spline count if that diff is made for a newer gen trans.

this won't work, the circlip won't fit into the slot that the snapring goes, I've have 23 spline and 25 spline MT and 25 spline auto shafts all out at the same time and compered them. why not just use 25 spline ea82 axles and swap in ea82 suspension and upgrade while your at it.

I got them off Ebay form this seller http://myworld.ebay.com/lugs-n-stuff/?_trksid=p4340.l2559 they're 1 inch thick

I think your getting me and monstaru mixed up I never blew off WoodsWagon's explanation for the loading of the ball joints its good info and I'll look into it, but for right now my plan is to get this finnished and running and then test it out I'm breaking new ground here as I don't know of anyone else that has built a suspension like this on a Subaru and am planning on having some failures and needing to make changes. I've just never been one to sit and crunch a bunch of numbers to see if something will work, I'm more of the build it test it break it learn what went wrong and improve form there.

Good to know its been done successfully for the last 20 years, hopefully I wont have any problems.

So I've made a good bit of progress lately. Got the engine finished and ready to go in I also swaped the 23 spline stub shafts in the D/R trans with the 25 spline shafts form the FT4wd trans so I can just use any Legacy or Impreza front axles instead of trying to find FWD Impreza axles. I forgot to get a pic of the inside of the trans but here is a comparison pic of the 4WD pinion and FT4wd pinion shaft 4WD top FT4wd bottom I'd like to try welding a 4.44 pinion to the FT4wd shaft and using it in the D/R case but need to see what the machining will cost. and 23 and 25 spline shafts these swap right over no other parts needed. I then got the trany in, installed the front axles and drive shaft and hooked up the brake lines and installed the hub adapters. with these my bolt patter is now 5x4.5 Also extended the shifter linkages and got the hooked up, but decided to do something different for the 4wd linkage I put it between the gear shifter and ebrake, like it would be in most trucks and suv's, and I have something special planed for the Hi Lo shifting, but thats staying secret for right now. And cut out the fenders put the wheels and tires of and saw how she sat. oh and this came in recently, SJR adapter plate, now I just need to file the holes in my fly wheel and I can install the engine.

I don't think the wheels I got are listed as a trailer wheel and they are a common wheel for a lot of Jeep, Toyota and Ford guys to use plus there at least 7 in wide if not 8 in a bit wide for a trailer.

Picked up these yesterday 30/9.50/15's bolt patter is 5x4.5 I'll be using some hub adapters with them.

Your going to want them angled in the back too or you will end up with positive camber. You should also look into getting some outback or forester struts for your Legacy they have a higher spring perch to give you more clearance for taller tires. Brads you pull in Redmond might have some I've gotten struts there for about $20 each with springs.

how dose the payment part work, I got the email stating the new group buy price but if I go to my order on your site it still is the normal pricing, should I just ignore this? Also who do I make the payment out to and were do I send it.

I thought of doing this as I've seen it done like that on desert race trucks but my worry was loosing a lot of steering angle and getting stuck with a huge turning radius.

I also started working on the wiring, I pulled all the stock ecu wiring and all the wiring in the engine bay. I then rewired the parts I need like the lights and horn wiring back through the fire wall, I don't like having it route though the fenders seems too venerable there. I sort of had to reverse engineer a lot of it because I cut some needed wires trying to get all the ecu crap out. Dash apart junk removed Next I need to go though all my EJ wiring harness and get that installed.

Sorry about the lack of updates but I have made some progress, I made one good 2.5 block out of 2 bad ones I had, one was oil staved and had crazy rod knock and the other was over heated and had a snapped timming belt. I used some 2.2 heads I cleaned up on it to make I high compression Frankenstein engine. A few pics of the teardown and assembly. The usable parts, new bearings and rings. Short block assembled heads and timing components on.

Just ordered my adapter plate, Order #137