Ioku

yeah thats the trans that came with the car its a FT4WD single range with a 3.7 diff. So I picked up a duel range at the pick and pull. And I got something planed for the spings and shocks I'll post up some pics of what I'm thinking tomorrow.

Well one of the advantages of a double A arm suspension is camber can be tuned to stay the same or go negative as the suspension droops so the axles will be sort of pushed back into the cups by the negative camber instead of pulled out by the positive camber change you end up with on a strut system. But really I don't know if they will have enough slip for the travel I want, I wont know till I test it out. I plan on the at rest angle to be close the flat maybe just a little more angle than stock. I'm also going to be running 31's and will be doing a lot of fender cutting, and building some custom flares.

So I tested it out and that will work great, It will also make fabbing the upper arms easier. Thats what I love about message boards like this, you get new ideas from other people, sometimes working alone you get stuck in a way of doing things and become blind to new ideas.

Actually I don't know why I never thought of that, I was looking at that upper ball joint worried that I may not have enough range of motion. And at least for the ball joint a heim will work well, thats the one that will need to handle harsher angles anyways because of the shorter upper arms.

Just using EJ CV axles front and rear there longer than EA82 axles and seem to be better at taking hard angles. If I had the money I'd like to build axles with slip joints in them like a driveshaft, so you could really extend them. I'd like 12 inches travel if I can, but would be happy with 10. (Thats what she said)

Got the lower A arms built, now on to fabbing brackets for the uppers and building those.

So back in January me and a friend picked up this 88 GL-10 that had a blown up engine for $150, I lucked out and got a clutch LSD for my Impreza and he got rear disks and fancy interior parts for his Loyale. And I ended up with the rest of the car. I had always wanted to lift one of these older Subaru's and now I have one. One of the main this I wanted to deal with on the car was the suspension, this will be a sort of dakar rally prerunner car that can also handle some trails, So the most important thing is having suspension travel. So its out with the struts and in with duel A-arms. I also wanted to use EJ axles because there longer and can handle harder angles so I modded some EJ Knuckles to accept Toyota upper ball joints. I think this crazy creation of mine is the first one made for a subaru. Ordered up a bunch of these they're 3/4 with high offset spacers I also modded the crossmember to bring the control arm mounts forward and remove the problem of having the axle hitting the stock mount when at hard drop. I'm going with a 3 in drivetrain drop, the rest will be in the suspension modded the rear control arm mounts to accept the heim joints, also moved the mounting point back and in and incorporated the trans crossmember drop mounts. Started mocking up how the front suspension will be set up.

I think its the hollow tube that fits over the pinion on the FT4WD pinion shaft, I have a single range FT4WD trans and noticed that on it, I also have a 4WD duel range and just need to get a 4.11 early gen lagacy trans and can hopefully build one.

Bumping this up, instead of making a new thread, So did you ever find out why you lost 2nd gear, I would like to do this mod but worried about the 2nd gear problems.

Running it upside down will make it a high pinion diff, looks like an added bonus to me.

So when you say the teeth fit with the subaru shaft do you mean that you were able to put the Audi inner CV joint on the Subaru axle shaft. Because that would make fitting this really easy. You got me all excited with this info I need to get down to the pick and pull and start looking for Quartos and Syncros to pull a diff out of.

What parts are you looking for? The EJ diff is the same as the EA one except for the stubs coming out of the diff, you can fix this by just swaping the carriers.

Ok, that would make more sense then having extra gears in there just to be 1 to 1 I guess I'll have to go to the other end of the gears and try that 4.11 or 4.44 diff conversion.

So I was doing some reading on transmissions and noticed that the RX low gear is 1.19 to 1 basically 1.2 to 1 so would it be possible to put those gears in place of the 1 to 1 high gears in the 4wd trans out of a GL and then have the 1.6 to 1 low gears. With the GL's 3.9 diffs and the 1.2 to 1 it would be like having 4.68 gears in high range this would make turning a big tire like a 31 feel like stock or even a bit lower. Not sure if this would be possible can those high and low gears be pressed off a shaft or is it just one machined piece?

I plan on doing this too if I finish first I'll post up some info and pics.

Yep thats really all you need, I did this with a stub type lsd out of a 3.7 diff into a 4.11 and I did the opposite of this and made a stub diff into a female diff, both work fine.

Yeah I only paid $75 for mine, got the 2.5 for $20 and the wiring harness for free form a friend so defenitly looking for a deal

Thats the sort of thing I was hopeing to here, now I just need to find a good deal on a set of mud terrains.

Good to know you don't lose all off roading capabilitys with 31's, I dont, plan on this being a crawler, mainly just to take up the trails and mob through the desert and dunes. I'm going for more of a Dakar rally thing with it, and just think 31's look badass on a Subaru plus the extra clearance and approach will be nice. Once I get some more parts and metal and can really get working on it I'll start a build thread.

So I'm trying to figure out what size tires to run on my 88 GL project I will be using a 5 speed D/R trans with the 3.9 final drive but I want to know if you find 31's to be too big with that gearing. I also plan to use a EJ 2.5 franken engine in this car so it will have alot more power over the ae82 1.8. But I still dont want to have to slip the clutch and bog out just taking off from a stop.

I only dissembled it to see what had happen to it, never planed on using any of it, plus the scrap metal place gives you more money for aluminum if all other metals are separated from it.

So me and a friend picked up a GL10 turbo for $150 knowing it at least had bad head gaskets but it turned out being much worse. Last weekend I tore the engine apart and found this, pulled off the intake manifold and found a hole in the top of the block I then pulled the engine and and split the block and found that one of the rods had sheared off and another one had smashed through the piston. hole in cylinder wall looks like it was run low on oil as all the rod bearings were almost gone.

the 2.5 heads are only good if your going to turbo it as they will lower the compression ratio. And yes alot of the emissions crap can be gotten rid of because its a OBD1 ecu I have basically the same ecu and engine in my car and have gotten rid of the cats and the whole evap system, just leave the sensors plugged in to the wiring but not hooked up to anything.

This is true, for all usdm subaru R180s, but I think over in JDM land you may also be able to find 4.11's and 4.44's if you want lower gearing.

I know this is old but thought I'd bump it up to see what became of this project. Did you ever get the 4.44'S to fit in the EA D/R case?