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ferox

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Everything posted by ferox

  1. ferox
    Do you have a throttle return spring installed?
  2. ferox
    Is this a kit for your car or a used Weber with unknown jetting? That happened to me on my Jeep. I had to drop my idle jet sizes quite a bit. If you can get it to idle, try screwing the idle mixture screw (not the idle speed screw) in or out more than what the instructions say. Find where the idle is highest. If idle peaks with less than 1.75 turns on the idle mix then you should drop your primary idle jet down. If it idles best at more than 2.25 turns then bump the idle jet up. They are really easy to change. What do your spark plugs look like? I am guessing it's running a bit rich.
  3. ferox
    No, the two door version is referred to here as a Hatch, and the drive shaft is shorter. As others have said, getting another vehicle is the best option for 4wd. The fwd '84 are known to get really great gas mileage and be really dependable. If you are going to modify it I would give it an SPFI swap, then you would have a cool, dependable, fuel economical hauler. As Gloyale mentioned keep a look out for an '85-'89 that has the 5 spd dual range 4WD already in it. You can find them really cheap too. Then if you do an EJ engine swap you will have a super capable 4WD wagon.
  4. ferox
    I've dropped the trans on my '81 several times. I used to jack the thing way the hell up to clear the bellhousing. Installation was a pain that way. Last time I just pulled the engine and trans together and it was a lot easier. Installation was way better that way too. It means draining coolant and unhooking a lot of stuff, but at least you can stand there and do it for the most part.
  5. ferox
    I believe that is what he was referring to, but instead of trying to seal it with silicone it would be way better tap the joint and install a zerk. You could even install a zerk in on of the caps if needed. You might not even need a tap if you go through one of the caps, but you would have to be really careful not to deform the cap itself and keep metal shavings out of the bearings. It's cool to see another Durango member. I lived there for a while, and miss it quite a bit.
  6. ferox
    I did mine back before I was a member here, so I didn't even realize they were supposed to be non-replaceable. Got my replacements from Rockauto w/ zerks. The original joint crosses were hollow, so they could be converted to greaseable, but this was on an '81. An '02 might be different. I've gone over 70k miles on the replacements so far.
  7. ferox
    Order a half shaft for an '84 GL. That eliminates most of the confusion. As a general rule most of the parts you order for your Hatch are the same for a '84 GL wagon except windows and door and such. I have an '81 Hatch and I even use the '84 rule almost everytime. I saw an '86 Standard Hatch in the JY the other day, realized that your grill is stock.
  8. ferox
    They are separate. The rotor and hub are connected to each other with 4 bolts. Get new spindle washers and castle nut while you're at it. Torque to spec upon install.
  9. ferox
    You don't need to do anything with the "hole" in the exhaust pipe. It doesn't actually open into the exhaust pipe. It's just a heat stove to draw air across the hot exterior of the exhaust pipe into the air cleaner box to aid in cold warm-up. A carbed ea82 pipe will likely have the same feature.
  10. ferox
    Make sure you adjust your valve lash too. A lot of people don't ever maintain it, and eventually it will get far enough out of spec that it will do weird things to the performance of the engine.
  11. ferox
    By electronics do you mean some kind of controller or do you mean an electric motor(s)?
  12. ferox
    Not really The stock system is designed to induce air flow through the crankcase (PCV). A breather cap doesn't do that (CV). PCV is better than CV because it removes combustion by-products from the crankcase better and manages the oil smoke/fumes that inevitably come out of the breather caps.
  13. ferox
    Yeah you use the one factory air cleaner hole/fitting on the Weber air cleaner. The hose that comes off that fitting goes to a tee fitting that has a full size orifice on the passenger side and a roughly half size orifice on the drivers side. It mimics the two nipples on the stock air cleaner to provide the vacuum/pressure differential that causes the flow. I sold all my Webered ea81s or I would post a picture. I always got my tee-fittings in the HELP section of the auto parts store of choice, they are very common. I don't know if this link will get you to the right page but I am pretty sure it's part #47156. The description says it's made of steel, but if you look at the picture it's definitely plastic. http://www.dormanproducts.com/gsearch.aspx?type=keyword&q=tee+hose+connector
  14. ferox
    The LSD would be a lucky junkyard score or purchase from another member. You can get a OBX helical LSD for the front, but that's some $ and requires opening the transmission. Might be more than you are looking for, but it would be awesome. I'll keep an eye out for the blue camo. I drive a black and white '81 Hatch, actually my wife drives it more than me, so you may see her cruising around.
  15. ferox
    Yeah more pics! I am planning on doing a frame like that too. I thought I would have to buy a tubing bender for some dom like VaporTrails brat build, but looking at your square tube frame I'm thinking that maybe that would be overkill for my puropses since it's already got a unibody "frame" and I'm not going with solid axles. Square tube would be easier. I think my build just got a lot less expensive and easier...in my mind.
  16. ferox
    Nice pics, a little Subie-Yota dos-e-doe. I think you need a retractable wheelie bar or a pre-runner style rear bumper now so you don't do back-flips. That's quite the Washington crew you guys have got going on. Looks like a good time.
  17. ferox
    If that doesn't turn out to be the problem, you could have excessive backlash in the rack which can be adjusted out. Or the adjuster could have backed out or been loosened by a previous owner. Excessive backlash would cause the steering wheel to have a lot of back and forth, but once you turn it far enough it will engage and turn normally.
  18. ferox
    Like others have said sway bars and LSD if you can find one. One of the main annoyances of the older gen Subarus is under-steer in low traction situations. A rear sway bar will help that and an LSD. That's the main reason I would caution about a locked rear diff...it will want to push you straight. If you go that route I am sure you can compensate after you get used to it, but I think the LSD would be better. Some stiffer shocks in the back might also help assist a rear sway bar. Whenever I rip donuts in my '81 hatch in the snow the under-steer gets a little frustrating. I don't have a rear sway bar and my front tires aren't toed in as much as spec so they don't wear-out so fast but my donuts are often much larger than I am really going for. The toe-in spec for the older gens is to compensate for the under-steer. Since your Loyale has a longer wheelbase it will probably do better than an ea81 hatch as far as under-steer but it's something to think about. I'm in Milwaukie too btw.
  19. ferox
    Looks good. How was it for road manners? I'm guessing a front tube bumper is in the plans.
  20. ferox
    Nice, thanks for the extra pic. Makes me wish I could start building right now. I see some reinforcements around the strut tops too that drop down to the unibody frame (?). If you have any old photos of that hanging around I would be really interested in seeing those as well. You've pretty much done almost exactly what I want to do with my hatch, except that I am going with the donor Legacy suspension and auto trans, but still, looks amazing and looks like it's a blast to drive. I am totally jealous, I wish I could start building, but my house has other plans for my time. Definitely inspiring.
  21. ferox
    That's some dedication and nice work. Do you have any more pics or description of how you did your rad support? When I build up my Hatch I am planning on making a custom one with angle iron similar to what you have there.
  22. ferox
    Are you talking about the shift linkage? If your transmission fluid level is correct, then there must be a wiper seal in there that has degraded. I can't find my FSM at the moment, but this is not a commonly reported malady. Pictures would help a lot. I am guessing this happens after it's been driven. A single range 4 speed is hardly worth opening and fixing unless you are doing a stock resto. Can't remember which bellhousing you have. Not sure if you can get to it without cracking the case. You will probably get more responses if you provide more details.
  23. ferox
    It sounds like you are a bit or a purist so I don't mean to blaspheme, but based on the amount you are willing to spend, you could do an EJ swap or pay someone to do the swap and have the benefits of the increased power and fuel injection. You also get the benefit of having neo-mechanics be able to work on it. Since your current ea82 is carbed you basically have to learn how to work on it or as others mentioned, the price to have it "professionally maintained" is too high...if you can even find someone that will work on a carbed engine. It's easy to say EJ it, I know, but it would be well worth it. Especially if you ever go north into the mountains, the carbs just don't adjust to the elevation like fuel injection and you will definitely like the added horsepower if you are trying to go uphill anywhere higher than 6000 ft elevation.
  24. ferox
    So the ea82 body style rigs don't use a heater core valve down by the accelerator pedal like the ea81 body style? I thought the flapper doors were to direct air flow to the various outlet ducts and the amount of heat was generated by the amount of coolant allowed to pass through the heater core.
  25. ferox
    I see zero problems with this setup. Back when I used to decommission underground fuel tanks, one of our vehicles was an econoline box van that had a 275 gallon tote in the box like that one. When we had it full o'fuel and came up to a stop light the whole vehicle would do this weird multi-axial groove from the slosh-waves. We got a few looks. I can't imagine what would happen with one on top of a hatch.
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