ferox

The gaskets are probably dry-rotted and a lot of the fasteners could be loose. The float is probably out of spec too. I would recommend a carb rebuild. The kits are ~$30 and a rebuild isn't really that hard to do if you follow the directions step-by-step. If you are ok spending some money, a Weber swap is a good investment, especially if your car only has 113k.

Not quite sure what you mean by this. Do you mean it's the original carb and you just bought the car? Or do you mean you just bought another carb? My question was about when the carb was rebuilt last. If it's hasn't been rebuilt to your knowledge, then that might be in order.

I replaced mine with one from a '91 Jeep Grand Wagoneer. They're $30 at Rockauto. If you search around you can probably find others that are closer in size to the subie canister for $30-$50.

The diaphragm in the valve on the charcoal canister does go bad over time, which will cause a pesky vacuum leak that is often overlooked. When was the last time your carb was rebuilt?

I would shut him up by pointing out how weak his Honda must be if he's trying to challenge a Loyale. Really? That's some weak sauce. Any street car can be suped up with money, but as others have pointed out, they lack utility. When I see a Honda bouncing down the road with 2 inches of clearance because they cut their springs, then attached a fart can and wind up their engine any chance they get, I just see a tool behind the wheel. Don't lower yourself (pun not intended) to their level. You've already demonstrated that your a more sensible person just by your choice in vehicles.

"I still don't quite understand the logic of doing all these upgrades" Logic?...there's your problem right there. For some of us, the answer to the question, what do you want to drive?, is an 80's Subaru that has been upgraded with 90's gear. I like to build my stuff, so I know it inside and out, but beyond that I don't know if logic plays a substantial role. If everyone made automotive choices based on logic, the automotive world would be a very boring place.

I ask myself this same question a lot, but it always comes down to the other question, what to I want to drive? I like the built aspect of any old gen, cause let's face it, any Old Gen on the road today is there because someone liked it enough to learn how to take care of it. Paying a mechanic to keep up a vehicle that old with such low monetary value would quickly outweigh the value of the car. So driving old gen says more about a person than they're are nostalgic and like D/R 4WD. That said, I have a Legacy in the driveway that will eventually be cannibalized and added to my '81 hatch to make a hybrid New Gen/Old Gen...the best of both worlds. There's a bit of a self-reliant steampunk roadwarrior aspect to it I like as well. If I had a better shop and a few more extremely expensive tools, I would be out of control. For a DD though, a decent Lego or Impreza is hard to beat, and if I didn't have the '81 hatch, the '92 Legacy would be lifted, chopped, and who knows what else.

Check your fuses.

Looks cool. Keep it going, I want to see what happens. It looks like it's going to be super custom, the kind where guys squint to see it far off 'cause they can tell it's built. Looks like your making an awesome approach angle, but I still can't quite tell exactly where you're going with it.

If your lift doesn't have stock axle angles, then an oem axle will probably handle the articulation better, but if your are going to use aftermarket, wouldn't bother with anything other than EMPI. They are easily the highest quality aftermarket axle I have used. Rockauto sells them for $51.

I see. Looks like the carb you have is significantly different than the 80s models. Unfortunately all my parts carbs are from the 80s so they don't have that part.

The dealer is not going to be able to help you with that one. Can you post up a photo of the part you're referring to? I don't see a throttle bypass valve listed in the FSM.

Not necessarily. If you have bypassed the idle circuit then the mixture screw won't do anything. If you blew gasket in the secondary, then that's probably what's happening more or less.

Sounds more like a vaccum leak.

Sounds like you are referring to the hubs, and yes you will want to remove those before taking the rotors in to be turned.

Also, the odometer on '88 Justys only goes up to 99,999.9, then rolls over to zero, so if the owner trys to tell you it has less than 100K on it they're either ignorant of that fact or dishonest. You be the judge.

"when putting the knuckle back on i use the 2x4 and the BFH method. Give it a couple love taps, eyeball match it to the other side and call it good." I'm not quite sure what you mean by that? Do your axles typically fail at the DOJ or CV?

"Anyone know what this is?" Yep, generally defined as a POS and that does not mean point of sale. You should return it if you can.

Check your fuses and fusible links first. It would suck to go through a bunch of diagnosis to find that it was a fuse. It's been a while since I had my '84s, but my '81 has three inline fuses up under the dash by the steering column in addition to the fuse block. I believe at least one of them is part of ignition control.

Cool, are you going to twin stick the Dana 20?

Without knowing more about what has been done, my best guess would be that something (rag) didn't get pulled out of the rad or pump upon reassembly after the lift. Most other things (that you have already checked) that would have a dramatic overheating effect would also make a noticeable impact on the idle and running condition.

Is your car actually showing physical signs of overheating or is the dash gauge showing that the engine is running hot?

295,000 miles on the '81, still runs great and has excellent compression. Sorry wrong Gen 185,000 miles on the '92 also still runs great.

Sounds like you've identified at least one problem. I don't know how you reamed the fuel supply tube, but you could try chucking up a section of new stainless steel wire rope/cable in a drill and using it to ream the heck out of it. For best results you would want a cable with an O.D. that is close to the I.D. of the pickup tube and make sure you chuck it so the rotation doesn't unravel the cable.

The sensor wire should be connected as close to the battery as possible. It doesn't go to 12V constant; it "tells" the alt what the actual charge is on the battery, so the alt "knows" how much to charge the battery. If you just hook it to 12V constant, then the alt won't be responding to the battery charge per se and would most likely result in overcharging the battery. We've already gone over this. The way you have it hooked up will work, but it's less than ideal and doesn't account for resistive losses in the alt power supply wire to the battery.