ferox

The ea81 fuel pump control unit runs the pump for a few seconds with the key in "on" as Loyale 2.7 T describes for the ea82.

So are you looking to build an AWD 914 or stick with 2WD?

You're probably right, I hope so. The only misgiving I have about driving an '81 and planning on doing a major EJ upgrade is the crash-worthiness compared to an air-bagged car. Looks like a restraints upgrade is in order too.

They are Weber specific and they're are two kinds: large and small. You will want a small one, just look for the ones under DGV or DGEV. The nice thing about the idle jets on a Weber is that they are on the outside of the carb. You just have to unscrew the hold-down screw near the choke assembly to swap them out.

If the idle speed screw is turned in more than 1.5 turns after it makes contact with the throttle lever, it exposes the enriching progression holes in the throttle bore. Since the throttle lever is stamped, there is typically a small ridge of metal along the center of the edge of the lever, so the screw can contact the lever before it looks like it. I slide a piece of paper between the screw and lever to determine when contact is made. This may not be your problem, but if you have the mixture screw set at 1.75 and your curb idle is 1000 rpm, then you should probably check to make sure your idle speed screw isn't turned in too far. I would probably put a 45 primary idle jet in to try to get the settings closer to design spec.

Your low idle is kind of high. What is your primary idle jet size? Weber tends to send out jetting on the rich side so people don't damage pistons and such by running lean. How did you verify how many turns your idle speed screw has been turned after it touches the throttle lever? The Holley low pressure regulator is the most commonly recommended unit for these carbs ~$40. Easily ordered online. You can also get a fitting from a Hitachi carb that has the fuel return line, which can help a little with bowl pressure.

Do you know what jets you have? What are your idle mixture and idle speed screws set at?

That looks like a decent rig. If it runs ok then, any problems with the ea81(engine) are likely fixable without too much trouble. My '81 has over 294k on it right now and it's still going very strong. The exhaust stud hole can be helicoiled or drilled and tapped for a larger stud. Even a head gasket job isn't that big of a deal really. If it has rod knock, then you might want to stay away.

KYB GR2's. You can put some KYB gas-a-justs in the back if you want something stiffer. They're both good.

Sweet VW. The paint looks great. It looks like I am probably going to have multiple day dry times between coats. I'll see how long I can leave my car under the portable garage before my totally awesome neighbors anonymously call the city on me.

Thanks, I am going to look into those in the next couple weeks. All the reviews I have read have been very good, and I would rather do it once. My compressor doesn't hold pressure, so I am going to have to go through it before I can think of spraying, but we'll see. Spraying would be better than rolling. Thanks again!

That's a Jackson's Chameleon all the way from Africa. I imagine there is a problem with exotic pets becoming endemic there. Those things are cool. If it's still around you should hold it up to different patterns and see if it changes to match.

Oh right, I started my research trying to track down a couple brands you had suggested in another thread, but did not find much information on retailers. Then my research diverted me. I was going to check with a retail location here called Industrial Finishes. One of the brands you suggested was Klass if I remember correctly, but there was another one that I can't remember. Could you remind of the main brand you suggest? If I recall, it's somewhat expensive, but very high quality. What about clear coat? Would suggest the same brand? I am sure Honduras has very high humidity, and it seems like it could make the clear coat cloud.

Thanks guys. Sounds like maybe I was over-working the problem. The internet is full of conflicting opinion on this topic. I totally forgot I have a bunch of infra red heat lamps and was wondering what I should do with them. They would be perfect.

That's what I am asking about.

I was hoping to paint my Jeep this summer and didn't, and now it looks like I need to paint the Hatch too. So now I have two cars to paint. I bought a 10' x 20' portable garage to use as a paint booth and I plan on doing the DIY roller method (my air compressor is a POS). Well, the weather window here closes out pretty quick. We are now into months of 40-60 degree weather or colder with rain. Humidity is currently 94%. So I am wondering if I have a dry "booth", but it is not climate controlled, am I going to have insurmountable adhesion and/or texture issues? Or put another way, are there products or procedures that would allow me to proceed more successfully with painting during the wet? I can probably heat the space somewhat and dry and heat the areas to be painted, but mostly I am worried about condensation overnight. Obviously with a DIY job I am not expecting outstanding results, but I don't want to do a crappy job either.

More pics of the Brady Bunch wagon please. That thing is sweet.

GD has mentioned these before. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html I got one to do the ball joints on my brother's '93 imp. I would not have gotten one of them off without this tool. It is the shiznit, as the saying goes. On the driver's side I cranked it down as much as I would dare and then tapped it with a hammer. The joint came out explosively sparks and all. The passenger's side was easy. I highly recommend this tool.

Did you use Brake & Caliper Grease in all the right places?

As TOONGA points out, the jet primarily affecting fuel supply at idle (on a properly tuned Weber) is the primary idle jet. If the mains were that far off, then you can bet the idle jets are way off too. They are easy to get to, so there's no reason not the check and change if needed. Dieseling can occur with an over-lean A/F mixture, so vacuum leaks, improper carb tuning, etc,... can be a problem.

I would suspect so. You should check all your jet sizes and locations and float setting to see what you've got. The idle jets are on the outside of the carb and the air correctors and mains are on the inside. You just have to remove six screws and disconnect the choke linkage to get to the inside where the float and jets are. It's pretty easy actually.

Yeah that's a decent yard price, and with only 130k nontheless. Last time I pulled a rear diff at the yard it was $85 I think.

What is the choke doing? It might be that your primary idle jet is a little too large or your power valve is leaky (or some other enrichment condition) and the choke enrichs too much on start up for the car to fire-up correctly. I prefer manual chokes anyway, but you might find that that is not the problem. It does make it easier to test though when you can just push and pull the cable from the driver's seat.

If the Weber is jetted correctly and dialed in, then it can pass no problem. If you don't have an EGR valve hooked up, that could possibly cause some issues. Check to make sure your air filter is clean, and your fuel filter is good. Other than that you should be good to go. They do end of pipe sniffer tests on cars of the '86 vintage, so if you have straight pipe instead of a muffler you should be good, but if the muffler is just missing and the tail pipe terminates up under the car they might refuse to crawl under the car.

You might tell your friend to pull the AMC front license plate since it's a Chrysler. I'll take it for my '82 Wagoneer . If the V6 doesn't work go with the I6 swap, very worthy as you probably know.