ferox

I have used it and it works ok. I think GD mentioned that he used a silver pen and that worked good. I would go for the pen method if I were to do it again.

Very cool, I would like to see the finished bar. Are those slabs worth more than your car?

Fuel economy is going to suck no matter what at 8,500 ft. FI is better, but even that is greatly affected by the elevation. You are going to want the progressive secondary of the Weber to pull up hills at that elevation. I am assuming we are talking about Colorado or somewhere nearby, where there are long steep stretches of road. With the stock set-up your running start will get you about half-way up the hill, then you will have to down-shift and fart your way at half-speed to the top. Meanwhile trucks and other cars will be accumulating behind you. You will get tired of it. Here's a link to the standard 32/36 DGEV. I would recommend going with a manual choke at 8,500 ft rather than the electric, but the electric will work too. If you are not in a hurry you can find used one's cheaper, but for the money I think it's worth buying new. http://www.carburetion.com/after.htm go to conversion carbs you want kit K731 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-1985-1987-1-8L-OHC-EA82-Weber-Carb-Conversion-/330622469602?hash=item4cfaa285e2&item=330622469602&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr [Of course if you are talking about Tahoe or the Sierra's then I don't think you can run the Weber legally. You will have to keep the Hitachi to pass emissions.]

You can try that, but 8,500 ft is a big jump. You'll have to re-jet the carb to do it right and even then it won't have much power. I'd definitely recommend a manual choke Weber swap jetted for altitude if you can swing the cash.

It's also not uncommon for the heater core coolant control valve to leak by the driver's-side right-foot kick panel...hence the hoses could have been disconnected and capped for that reason as well.

It's doable, but you mention that you want to have some fun. This conversion would not be fun. You purchased a bit of a slug as far as performance is concerned. I would suggest driving it a while, see if you like how it handles and like it's character, and keep an eye out for an '86-'89 5MT 4WD version to buy. Buy it. Then put an EJ22 engine in it and you will have a very nice end product, better than the one you are suggesting building. The 5-lug conversion can be done a few ways, it's probably best if you do some research to decide how you would prefer to do that. If you want AWD instead of 4WD it is probably best to buy a Legacy or Impreza.

In addition to regular maintenance items such as valve lash adjustment, you can do a little Seafoam in the crankcase oil. I don't do this regularly, (In fact the previous time I did it was about 60,000 miles ago), but I did it recently because my engine ('81 ea81) was getting a little noisy. I put about a 1/3 of a can of Seafoam in the crankcase with the oil that was already in there, drove for about 150 miles over several trips, and changed my oil. The engine is very noticeably quieter now. I think the oil passages eventually build up enough sludge resistance to make a weaker oil circuit (even with good pressure) and the metal parts get noiser as a result.

It's happened to me before.

With the key off the fan should not run, regardless of grounding. I should have caught that in your first post; however, it's good to have a new rad fan switch. Since you have several electrical issues that are "developing" simultaneously, I would start looking at places where they all come together such as the ignition switch and connectors and the fuse panel. Both of those areas can get melty over time and with previous owners messing with them.

175s all around This one has a 185 in front and a 175 in back. The camera kind of distorts the sizes making the 185 look a little bigger in relation to the 175 than it looks like in real life (notice the wheel looks bigger too), but you get the idea.

I talked to the wheel adapter builder today. Sounds like the product would be very high quality (6061 T6 billet aluminum). They only build wheel adapters. Their website: http://www.motorsport-tech.com/ The adapters would be convenient, especially if you wanted to swap them to different cars ea81-ea82, but the re-drilled hubs certainly have their advantages. A full set of four hubs at the JY for a core run about $70 here. With new lugs and shipping you can easily add $30 or more. So $100 on top of machining. Skishop69 (5-lug) - $100 + $100 ~ $200 SJR (6-lug) - $155 + $100 ~ $255 Adapter (5-lug) = $300 + shipping Redrilling is definitely cheaper, but they are close enough to be in the ballpark depending on your wants and needs. I am tending toward the re-drill, but I will have to think about it.

Do you know what kind of metal he is planning on using? I am very interested, and I am guessing that a photo won't be available until someone pays whatever the discounted price would be.(?) Dimensional drawings would also give a little more information to go on. Could we possibly get a photo of the low-profile lugs? PM sent. Ok got your response while I was typing...I will try to call the guy tomorrow to answer my questions, Thanks

There it is. Actually you have unknowningly entered into a weird sort of codependency where every time you spend a little money on it and it runs a little bit better you love it even more. Think of it as a very small car payment. I paid $500 for my hatch and have put probably several thousand into it over the past 6 years $20-$100 at a time. Before long you will have replaced enough parts and gone through all the systems enough that you will recognize any aberrant sound. My '81 hatch is now 30 years old (286K), I have put untold hours into rehabing it, and I am proud of it for running so well. I am not proud of myself for making it run so well, I am proud of it. Therein lies the sickness, welcome to the club, you are recently infected. Cheers You are probably too young to remember the "inexpensive and built to stay that way" ads (no offense), but if you run the numbers that slogan is still true.

Yes I may be wrong (I am still learning New Gen myself) but I think you actually put a fuse in. Again I could be wrong, I don't do ea82, but I think the jack is in one of the rear compartments. Either in an interior side panel near the taillights or in the floor compartment.

I posted some pics on this thread that might help. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=126247

I finally got one of my cameras back from the repair center. If you want more specific photos let me know.

Depending on the state of your carb and engine and the way you drive, you should get between the low 20s to low 30s in mpg. You have (Part-Time-Four-Wheel-Drive) not (All-Wheel-Drive). This is an important distinction. This should answer your question: http://www.4x4abc.com/4WD101/def_turnpart.html

It still might happen. I was going to sell my '84 wagon' date=' but after washing it today I have decided it's just too sweet to sell. So it might get the full EJ treatment in the future. That sounds like the way to go if I didn't want the rest of the EJ running gear. My current thinking is 4WD Hatch, AWD Wagon. It's kind of silly putting all the work into making an AWD ea81, but the final product will be sweet, and with the rapidly increasing rarity of ea81s even in Oregon, I think it's worth the effort.

What kind of car is this for? If it's old gen it sounds like a fan switch grounding. The wire connected to the fan switch could have even become disconnected, broken, or insulation worn down and the wire is touching metal, thereby completing the circuit intermittently. The switch I am talking about is the one connected to radiator (passenger side tank).

Actually it was a size issue when I tried them (I realize Caboobaroo mentioned breakage), diameters were too small or large.

I am also interested. There are a couple nice XT6s in the one of the yards here at the moment. I started pulling 5 lug parts from them, but decided not to go that route. With the price of JY parts around here now I would have easily been into it for $300 plus lots of work (ea81). I am also interested in the answer to cmill189s question. Are these going to be made out of something other than aluminum? Or are different fasteners proposed?

They are 5 mm x 45 mm. I had the same idea (using Standard) as you when I first started working on these cars and as Caboobaroo said they are not an option. Dealer or a Subaru mechanic will also probably have a box of them and will sell you a few.

This happens all the time with all kinds of aftermarket parts for these cars, especially from Rockauto. It is probably more true for ea81s, but I get old stock in new boxes all the time. A couple times I have received geniune Subaru parts in Beck/Arnley boxes. So far I have always been pleased when I get old stock or even new from Japan because inevitably it is better quality than what I was expecting. It's not a universal rule, and I buy US whenever possible, but my point is don't be surprised if you run into this more as you replace parts on your Loyale.

Follow-up: As much as I would like some EJ running gear under my hatch, I have decided that I can't live without 4-low. Tomorrow I return the 5-lug stuff I have acquired and get an extra set of hubs for the 6-lug conversion. I'll be going with the EJ22-D/R 5MT-Rear LSD-6 lug conversion combo classic. I still think the Full EJ crossmember swap would be worthy, but not for my hatch. Maybe I will do that to my '84 wagon. The longer wheel base of a wagon would probably be better for the extra front track width of the EJ stuff anyway.

That's a lot of work. The fuel sock is just a little fuel resistant screen that slips over the end of the fuel line. What kind of info. are you looking for? Have you tried a different distributor? You mention a new VR. I usually take that to mean a Voltage Regulator. Do you mean internal or external VR?