ferox

First I will say that I comment with the hope that someone more knowledgeable can confirm or deny the following, but I think there is at least the possibility of a freeze plug being dislodged. Since you're in Alaska that makes some sense. I believe they are located in the head under the valve cover gaskets, but someone that works on EA82s will have to confirm that. It allows coolant into the crankcase which doesn't sound exactly like what you have going on, but it seems possible that it could also get into the cylinders, and like I said, hopefully someone can chime in on that.

A lot of things or more likely a combination of several worn parts can cause this. A couple things that are often overlooked are blown out transmission mounts and back lash in the steering rack (which can be adjusted out). Other things include pitch-stopper issues, bad u-joints, bad CV axles, bad alignment, wheels out of balance, ball joints, wheel bearings, loose hub, etc...I know that does not help you narrow things down much, but you can easily check the integrity of your trans. mounts, pitch-stopper bushings, and the torque on the spindle nuts with the car parked. Steering rack back lash can be checked somewhat qualitatively while parked. Basically your looking for a lag in steering. If you turn the steering wheel does it take a second or take an excessive rotation of the steering wheel to actually get the wheels to turn? I adjust mine maybe once every two years or more, but chances are that most '80s Subarus on the road have never had it done. Adjusting it takes that loose unresponsive feeling out of the steering. With your car on jack stands, try moving or wobbling the wheels in directions they are not supposed to go, and see if you get any play back and forth. If you get some movement try to see if you can tell if it comes from the steering linkage or hub and investigate accordingly. It's also probably does not cost too much to have your wheels balanced.

It's a Subaru. They did not become Suzukis until '95 and were not sold in the US.

Nice work! I think a Ghostbusters ambulance siren is in order.

I think maybe even the filter was originally under the hood without one by the tank. I can't remember that far back on my hatch, but it seems like every '81 I have seen at the very least had the filter converted back by the tank. Additionally, the under hood pump does a lot more pulling of fuel than pushing (pushing is better, that is at least one of the main reasons it was relocated by the gas tank in later models). Conceiveably, an underperforming pump located under the hood may work adequately when relocated by the gas tank. Anecdotally, I have never had a problem with the under hood pump on my hatch over the past 6 years. However, once I had to prime the fuel line with a Mityvac after I pulled the gas tank. It's an easy switch to move the pump, and (hopefully someone can verify this) but I think the '81s had in-line vapor separator(s). Also that wierd black canister with the two vacuum lines is an air cleaner that I think kept dirt out of the duty solenoids. I think they have a reed check valve mechnism, and it's almost guaranteed that it is not functioning properly, not to mention the duty solenoids.

Yes, another standard feature of the '81s that was changed in later years.

'81s don't have the vapor separator/filter. They just have the one filter by the gas tank. No filter under the hood.

It's not really a matter of being sensitive, this is an international forum with over 31,000 members and since it's all written communication it is easy for intentions to be misinterpretted without the benefit of being face-to-face. True enough. For me it would just be easier to buy the adapter and cut gaskets for the carb base rather than buying manifold gaskets(at the dealer BTW) and swapping manifolds. Either way is a good option. From memory, there is not much difference really. I think there is a slight difference, but I wasn't able to find the info in a search in the time I have to do so. Realistically there are probably bigger jetting differences between individual cars and locations than between the ea82 & ea81. Chances are you will have to do some rebuilding on the Weber and change a jet or air bleed, and that is just a little more likely when putting a carb for an ea82 on an ea81.

By a box of rocks I assume you mean it sounds like it is developing rod knock. The ea81 rarely needs a re-ring, but if it has been abused then it's possible if not probable. I would Seafoam the engine, put a new oil pump on it, get a new PCV valve from the dealer and replace and reseal your oil pan gasket and valve cover gaskets. Clean out or replace the hoses of the PCV system. Put a non-Fram oil filter on it with conventional 10W-30 and see how it runs. If it still has all the ASV and other emmissions solenoids and stuff then search on this forum for how to remove them. The Weber for $100 is probably a safe bet, but it might be easier to get an ea81 adapter plate and new jets, than to try to put all the ea82 stuff on as is. It is best not to refer to this engine or car as a "lil jap anything". It's derogatory and the ea81 is a very respected engine in this community and rightly so. Once you have learned more about it you will find that it is an extremely well designed, dependable, sensible, and durable work horse.

Excellent point-don't just check them, replace them. For a twenty bucks you can replace all your hoses, just do it one at a time so you don't mess them up. I don't know about the carter carb, but the Hitachi has a small brass pellet in the choke vacuum pull off that needs to be put back into the replacement hose, so check vac hoses from the carb for those pellets (orifice restrictors).

If nothing has been done to upgrade your charging system then the stock alternator is still the one you have, not the original but the stock alternator. The external voltage regulator will eventually give you problems, but if you have a new alt on there right now you should focus on the carb and take some time to learn about the charging and electrical system before you attempt mods on them. Don't limit yourself to this forum to learn about alternators and automotive electrical. There is a lot of good info on the internet, bad info too, but if you stick with the basics and look at several sources of consistent info, chances are you're learning good info. The fuel cut off switch is not the same as a relay tied to an engine running condition. If you get in an accident and get knocked unconscious, then you won't be able to switch off the fuel pump and gas could be spewing out of a fuel line. The fuel pump will empty your gas tank, most likely under you and the vehicle, and may even supply the ignition spark. I resoldered mine on the car. In fact I really just re-melted the existing solder. I may have added a little solder, but not much. Just disconnect the battery and you don't have to pull the motor unit to re-solder. The timimg could easily be off and would contribute to your poor mileage and engine run-on. The anti-dieseling solenoid in the carb could also be faulty (assuming a carter has one). Definitely learn how to check and adjust your timing. It's super easy and super important. The Weber carb upgrade is difficult to tune in to pass emissions in places that allow it, but the Weber is just straight-up illegal in Cali. It doesn't mean you can't use a Hitachi to pass and put the Weber on afterwards. The SPFI swap will fix the issue as well. You will need a different intake manifold either way. Having just acquired the vehicle, the Hitachi swap is probably the easiest option in the near term. After you have learned more about the car, the rest will become more clear.

I don't think you are getting my point, but do some research and you will eventually figure it out. The passing lamp is electric, and the solder points on the front of the electric motor probably need to be re-soldered, particularly the green one. Make sure you disconnect your battery first.

A couple things: If you don't have time to do the SPFI swap before you need to get it through emissions, a professional reman Hitachi with a new EGR will probably get you through for the time being. You will want to plug the all the vac hoses [Edit-except for the hoses going to the evap canister] for the emissions stuff and leave it in place as a dummy set-up so it looks stock under the hood. The '81 has an external voltage regulator instead of an internally regulated alternator. I highly recommend deleting the external VM and installing a cut-off relay to the fuel pump for when the engine isn't running. There is a thread on the subject posted by RennaisanceMan (if I remember correctly), but I don't have time to locate it right now. Once you do that you can upgrade your alternator and the car will run better.

This is probably your main problem right now. Are you in an emissions control area? (Include a location in your profile, no one is going to track you down from this forum and it helps us help you.) If you need to pass emissions, you might want a Hitachi carb and new EGR valve. Obviously your ambitious, so you could also do an SPFI swap. If you don't have to pass emissions, then you can get a Weber carb and get 20+ mpg. You are going to want to get OCD with the cleaning. The three main areas to target are behind every interior panel (e.g. inside doors), under and inside the seats, and inside the climate control and ventilation system and probably on top of your heater core. Shop vac, remove all trace, and sterilize. Deploy anti-rodent measures of your choosing. Repeat until desired results are achieved.

There isn't a whole lot of difference between a 165-65 R13 and a 165-70 R13, and like I said, most Justy owners run 175-70 R13s.

Most people run 175-70-R13s on their Justys. I am not sure why you are having trouble finding them. They are readily available. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?width=175%2F&ratio=70&diameter=13 There are not as many 165s available, but they can be found. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?width=165%2F&ratio=70&diameter=13 Your local tire dealer should have no problem finding what you need if you don't like the internet. I wouldn't put $20 craigslist tires on my car.

How is the transmission in your Metro? Is it an XFi model? I personally only own 4WD vehicles, but if I drove a lot (bike commuter now) I would consider a Metro or similar. However they have their design weaknesses as well. A Metro will almost always get better mileage than a Justy. To simplify your decision: Which do you value more, higher MPGs or push button 4WD? Both will probably fetch similar resale, but the Justy is more "rare".

Alternator

I swapped the rear coil springs for Gen II springs when I installed the rear sway bar. They are the same dimensions but less coil, if that makes sense. They are for the heavier Gen II so I assume they are slightly stiffer. Beyond that I don't think there is much difference between Gen I and GenII suspensions. It sounds like maybe your rear coils are shot in addition to the struts. They are all super easy to replace if you can find a Justy in a yard. Not only is the Justy "old" (my daily driver is an '81), but it is an econobox so minimal built-in options. With a fresh set of struts and springs you shouldn't have any camber problems. The previous owner probably just carried too much weight around in the car and hauled a trailer or something.

I know a little bit about Justys. If you have a donor car the EFI swap should be no problem. The most important thing is to get is the Gen II engine block so you can run even length axles. They are beefier too, with bigger diameter spindles and such. The '90 is a Gen II even if it is carbed. I have the same red '88 that you do and plan to do single point Megasquit for fuel delivery. House projects are taking priority right now, so I can't give any advice on that at the moment. Your struts definitely sound worn out. The Gen IIs came with rear anti-sway bars. I posted a guide on the Justy forum on installation if your interested. Get new or used struts and some poly bushings (or just new stock replacements) for your front anti-sway bar and the driveability will increase substantially. The Gen IIs also had solid front sway bar, whereas, the Gen I is hollow (and much lighter). The Gen I is substantially lighter than the Gen II, so if you are looking for mileage the Gen I with fuel injection of some kind is the best combo. If you keep the '88 install an aftermarket oil pressure sensor. There are guides on the Justy forum for that as well. I think eporter may have posted one if you have trouble finding it with a regular search. Nice work cleaning that thing up. The inside looks great, and the dents are inevitable...you may have noticed how tinny the body is.

Have you taken a reading on the alternator charging the battery? Are you running a red top battery or similar? Cougar can certainly correct me if I am wrong, but I think if the alt. regulator and/or rectifier goes, then it can over-charge or supply alternating current and possibly fry the control module in the disty. Also, I used to run red tops in my vehicles until one time when I ran the battery down in my hatch. My alt tried real hard to to charge it back up, but fried the ignition control module in the disty in the process.

Not necessarily. Being in Socal, replacing the fuel delivery system legally is a chore. For $10-$15 you can probably replace every vacuum hose in the engine bay, just do it one at a time. Run some Seafoam through the fuel system. Check your ignition timing. Not sure of your mechanical skill, but if you want to keep your car running in California you are going to need to learn it backwards and forwards. Oh and we like pictures. An '81 with 65,000 mi. must be witnessed

It kind of sounds like your caliper pistons weren't backed off enough when brakes were switched creating too much contact all the time...in effect pre-heating your system before you get to the hill. It could also be that your pads were not properly broken in after install, but I don't know much about ceramic pads and whether they can glaze over. Those may not be your problem(s), but they are common reasons for over-heating of the brake system after new components are installed. Of course you may just have the wrong subaru for what you are doing. If your rotors are glowing at the bottom of the hill, then as people have already mentioned-DOT 5 isn't the solution.

Bump for photos. I pulled off the cowl today, so I snapped a couple

Alamgordo is higher elevation so the performance of a carb is greatly effected. Seems like 20 mpg is still low, but advancing the timing should help. Those cold morning higher elevation warm-ups also eat into the MPGs. "Alamogordo elevation is 4,350 with a range of between 4,300 feet to 9,000 feet above sea level." http://www.usacitiesonline.com/nmcountyalamogordo.htm#statistics