ferox

Strange, I just did that myself. I made a tie-plate rather than welding. I might take the cowl off tomorrow, and snap a photo.

Do you know what model year of pump you put on? Loyales had several fuel delivery systems over the years with different fuel pressure requirements.

Sounds like you have the fuel system sorted. Definitely check the distributor vacuum advance pots manually by applying vacuum to them and checking for back and forth action of the linkage. Also check the ditributor wiring...the Justy is somewhat notorious for brittle and broken distributor wire insulation creating running problems.

+1 Seems like your fuel system might still be a little crusty. If your secondary butterfly is binding or you have clogging in the fuel circuits you will have to break the carb down again. I have a used '88 carb assembled and an '88 disassembled carb. I also have a carb rebuild kit NIB for an '88 Justy if you want anything. I am going to Megasquirt my '88. I suggest you check your vacuum advances (there are two) on the distributor. If one of the vac. advance pots isn't working it may cause your problem at WOT. This is not necessarily related to this problem and you probably already changed it, but if you haven't switched out the fuel filter you should do so immediately.

The Justy carb has an integral duty solenoid. Check the condition of the two wires that go to it. They come out of the top of the carb. What condition is your O2 sensor? Could you be more specific about the fuel spraying out of the top of the carb?

Try GD's setup. Notice the Hitachi return spring and throttle lever. His return spring has more tension on it at rest. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108693&highlight=weber+throttle

The throttle cable depresses easily because you don't have a proper throttle return spring to push/pull against. You are using the return spring in your accelerator pedal as the return spring instead, and it doesn't pull the throttle off quickly or consistently. Use the spring off the Hitachi carb that you replaced.

I don't see a throttle return spring on your install. Do you have one installed now?

If you are a 40 year old (like me) with as much time as will be required to do this build (unlike me), then I strongly suggest you fix the head gaskets and torque bind in the '97 (or not) and buy a Justy ('88-'94) for your gas electric hybrid. The '97 is simply too heavy and the wheels and tires too large. The transmission in any subaru will not function without the rear driveshaft; the transmission will drain all it's fluid.

Replace your fuel filter. Under car, in front of driver's rear wheel. Did you seafoam the carb or the engine or both? It is probably best not to mess with the adjustment screws until you know that the fuel circuits in the carb are cleaned. In fact it's a last resort. The car did not start driving the way it is because the mixture screws got out of adjusment, so if you mess with them you can easily end up confounding the diagnosis. Many a subie goes to the junkyard because people do that. I also drive an '81 hatch and lived in Durango for a while (6,500 ft) and there was only so much that could be done about the thinner air. This may be totally unrelated, but my '81 ran much better after I deleted the External Voltage Regulator. Don't go there until you make sure your entire fuel delivery system is clean though (filter).

Depending on how you drive, the stock toe settings can really burn up the front tires. I went with Les Schwab last time I bought my tires, and had a alignment at the same time (All of my car's bushings, ball joints, and inner tie rod ends were new). Les Schwab prorates credit on your next set of tires if the ones you buy wear out before their mileage rating. After they had replaced a complete set of tires for me (two at a time) after less than 10,000 miles (tires were rated for 100,000), I had them adjust the toe-in to a more neutral setting. There is more understeer, but that set of tires (with a lower mileage rating) has lasted much much longer than the first set and are still going strong. I have had no handling issues or any other issues of any kind with that set-up.

The best solution is to replace that carb with a Weber Redline 32/36 DGV series carb. Weber sells a conversion kit or you can get a used carb and order the manifold adapter separately. Expect to pay $200-$350 depending on whether you go used or not. There is a lot of information on that swap in various threads and the repair manual. It's worth the money to do the swap, but if it's not an option chime back.

This has been covered a lot, so the topic experiences explanation fatigue. I know that GeneralDisorder has described exactly what you need in several threads on this subject, including jet sizes and everything. Maybe try some more narrowed down searching. Basically you will need the adapter to the ea81, the properly jetted carb, the low-profile air filter (1 7/8" I think) unless you have a lift, and some PCV hose and t-fitting. Install is really simple. Here are a couple links with some info. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67492&highlight=ea81+adapter http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=109044&highlight=manual+choke Try doing a search for "manual choke", sorted by relevancy, posts by GeneralDisorder. You will get plenty of threads to go through. Try "PCV Routing" and "throttle cable" as well.

Actually that's well beyond professional advice.

I am wondering if anyone has used POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer or other similar products and would care to share their experience. http://www.stoprust.net/POR-15-Fuel-Tank-Sealer-Pint-p-49.html

When was the last time you replaced your transmission mounts? If the answer is "never", then at the very least I would check them out. Ea81 trans mounts are pretty weak. After the driveline vibration you described they may have even pulled apart. If it were me, I would replace them, but I would advise that you at least check them. Their importance in the driveability of the car is usually grossly underestimated.

Thanks McBrat

Will a heater core coolant control valve (the so-called "heater cock complete" in the FSM) from an '81 GL fit in an '81 Brat?

You are essentailly correct. You don't want to leave the Seafoam in your oil too long. I think I remember people saying to run it about 200 miles [i don't run it that long ~60 miles] then change your oil. Most of these older engines lose a little oil over time, so you can Seafoam when the oil level drops a bit. I put Seafoam in a spray bottle and squirt it as fast as I can down the carb-both barrels with the engine running. Sometimes I can get the car to stall, other times I just shoot a bunch in there and turn off the car for 10 minutes or so. Be prepared for the cloud of smoke coming out of the tail pipe.

Since you are in Cali, you are ultimately going to want to do an EJ22/5 MT swap or GeneralDisorders SPFI swap. The Weber is not accepted there for smog.

What elevation do you live at? How long do you let your car warm up? Have you Seafoamed your fuel system?

I am not familiar with the fitting in your picture, so I am not sure. I would probably do that just to minimize the hosery and it's easier to compare your set-up to other examples.

Checking and cleaning all of the main connections, fusible link connections, and grounds can make a surprising difference too. I just did the battery connections on mine the other day and it made a noticeable difference. I would go through Naru's diagnostic suggestions, but if you want to run new wire then make sure you do it right. Run it through the fusible link, not straight to the battery (+). Replacing the field sensor wire is really easy and can just be a fused wire to battery (+). If you are going to do it, it's probably best to learn how that all works or you could accidentally create a fire hazard, and there are plenty of multimeterings that can be done to narrow down your problem before surgery...but it's a nice upgrade nonetheless.

First you should replace your fusible links, but yes you can upgrade the wiring. You will want to find the factory crimp where the main wire from the alt. connects to the harness so you can cut the old wire out of the circuit. On my '84 I found it near the charcoal canister. On my '81 I found it near the battery. For the "two small ones" you will probably want to upgrade your field sensor wire, but you can use the stock dash light wire. Make sure you run the new main wire to the fusible link box and replace the connection from the fusible link box to the battery as well.

I believe GD told me to use Boolean operators when I asked a similar question.http://www.internettutorials.net/boolean.asp And here is a thread with good pics of the PCV routing. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=115539&highlight=PCV+routing+weber In advanced search I typed in "PCV routing"+weber, sorted by Relevancy, posts made by GeneralDisorder, and six threads popped up. I am doing this install later today, so if you can't tell what kind of T fitting is pictured let me know and I'll post a pic.