ferox

Once I get my Hatch lifted and EJ'd I am putting in some swivel cup holders. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_sq_top?ie=UTF8&keywords=swivel%20drink%20holders&index=blended&pf_rd_p=1278548962&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B002PHS6HA&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=16MCCX5M6Q9S5WJ1A9ME

Unfortunately no. All the Justy's in the US were all Subaru. The 1.0 liter was not available in the US, but I think it was Subaru-made up until 1994. After '94 the Justy was no longer sold in the US and the Justy became a rebadged Suzuki Swift.

Not True

They develop weak oil pressure, and can throw rods. If it has over 100,000 miles then it may be a candidate for a rebuild. Most of the Justy odometers only had 5-digits, a testament to their design life I suppose, so you have to judge the car by condition. Rod knock is usually pretty apparent before they let loose, but you might want to look at the bottom end to see what you've got.

+1

It does sound like a bearing, CVJ, or related issue, but you might also try backing off your caliper pistons a little.

We had to call a couple dealers and drive a bit, but we finally got everything we needed. We installed everything yesterday, and there was a huge improvement in performance. The engine seems to be running pretty much perfect, but the cel is still on. We disconnected the battery for about an hour while we worked on it, but other than that we haven't done anything to clear codes. Do we need to do anything else to clear the cel? We have only driven approx. 40 miles.

Ok he found a pep boys that did the code read, even though it took them 4 hours. Some of the parts stores were saying there was a liability issue so they stopped doing reads for customers. He got codes P106 and P301. We have the plugs but are having trouble locating a NGK or factory wire set that does not require 4-5 days to receive. Anyone know who has the hook-up? Thanks

So my friend has called around to all the parts stores in his area (San D.) and none of them claim to have OBD readers to check customers codes. They told him to go to a shop, which I presume will want to charge him for the service. Any San Diego members have suggestions as to where to go to get codes read? '98 OB

I am over here from the Old Gen section. I am slowly working my way toward EJs, but in the meantime I am flying down to San Diego in a couple days to visit a buddy then he and I are going to drive back to Oregon in his 98 Outback. Apparently his cel came on recently, and he is in a relatively low-cash situation. I am having him take it to a parts store to get the codes and will report them later. I am putting together a list of tune-up items we can go through before our little road-trip. For some reason I am not getting very far with my search efforts...I have looked this stuff up before for other friends, but I am having trouble this time. So far here is what I've got (verification and input is much appreciated): Plugs: NGK BKR5ES11 (is this what we need?) I have a gap of .044 is this correct? Wires: NGK FX50 (?) http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=946560 MAF Sensor: MAF sensor cleaner + a delicate touch (I found a description that this is a silver round thing on the end of the air-box. Round as in cylindrical? Which end of the air-box?) IACV: Throttle body cleaner or Seafoam through IAC while car is running. (?) It seems like I have found a video of the cleaning process or something like that on here before, but I could not find it again. If anyone can provide a link that would be great. Ultimately I am not exactly sure where the IACV is located. TPS: Carb cleaner on throttle plates (?) And PCV valve, fuel filter, air filter, sea foam in tank. "The" O2 sensor was apparently new when my buddy bought the car about a year ago, but it is my understanding that there are pre and post cat O2 sensors (?) I am assuming that the pre-cat O2 was replaced. If the codes indicate a faulty O2 or knock sensor, are there specific brands we should go for? Are there any other not-so-expensive things we should do? Lots of questions I know. We won't have a huge amount of time to do this, so I am trying to prepare as much as possible beforehand. Thanks in advance

I am not sure if any of this is what you are looking for, but this is what I found in my FSM. I swear I have seen a different graph regarding the distributor, but I could not find it. If you need any of these scanned, I could probably do that.

I think you might be looking at the idle up solenoid...if memory serves. I removed mine a long time ago. What does it have connected to it? Wires and vacuum lines or just wires?

You should look into either the GM alt swap or the Nissan alt swap. They are both more powerful and more plentiful.

Check your transmission mounts.

I was visting my parents for Thanksgiving yesterday and looked out their window to see this sweet wagon across the street. It was such a nice build I figure it has to be a member here. I hope the owner doesn't mind me posting a pic, I am just curious. Nice work.

Barely, but if you are just running to Copper and back you will be fine. You have to go slow in the snow anyway. Not to lecture, but be careful. It's not PNW snow and it can catch you off-guard. It's hard to describe how slippery it is, and a lot of the roads where you are going are just chiseled out of a cliff face with no guard rail. It's a very cool place nonetheless. It will be frozen in Leadville, so if you have the skills, you should put the Weber on before the trip. But as GD pointed out, if you are not sure of your abilities it might be better to get there and then do the swap. It doesn't sound like you have enough time to get the Weber and do the swap before you leave anyway, so I hope you have a place to work on cars where you are going...preferrably heated. Make sure you get the manual choke. Warming up your car is a big deal when you are 10,000 feet up in the Rockies in winter.

1) Fitment is a word. 2) It is a more accurate and therefore a better word than "fit" in this context. 3) Keep your comments on the subject of the thread and not the OP please.

Nice looking machine.

Sounds like Leadville or Silverton or something. I lived in Durango for a while which is only 6500 feet and even that elevation made a huge difference in performance. I think you will want the Weber with a manual choke, and you might try calling some shops in the area you plan to move to or other high elevation Colorado towns to find somebody that might be able to give you some advice on jetting. It might take a few calls to find someone that knows about carbs, but due to the 4x4 scene I am sure you can find someone.

One guy said stop being such a worry wart. The justy board did not tell you to stop being paranoid. You can however stop coming over here and dis-ing the Justy board. But I am just one guy, not the USMB.

You would be surprised and how much "spring" wood actually has. I use the hot-cold strategy when I do these. I put the bearings in a plastic bag in the freezer the night before. In the summer I set the knuckle in the sun for a couple hours, in the winter I just use a torch (some people put them in the oven). You could also set it in front of a space heater. With a hot/warm knuckle and frozen bearings, I drift the bearings in with a brass punch on the outer portion of the bearing. It only take light taps this way. Just a bunch of little taps uniformly around the circumference of the outer part of the bearing. If you do it this way just be very deliberate about placement of the punch on the bearing. I usually file the punch a little bit to make sure it contacts the bearing correctly. I have a press and a giant socket set but I don't even bother using them. You can also make a simple bearing press with a large nut and bolt and some large washers and such. Whichever method you choose, the main thing you have to make sure you do is apply force/pressure on the outer metal portion of the bearing as evenly as possible.

Here is a basic write up: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77491\ You don't have to do it exactly like the write up. I personally don't use a hammer on my tie-rod ends. You can get a puller for that for about $6. It's not written very prominently in the write-up, but if you remove the bolt from the inner pivot joint of the control arm it will give you enough play in the suspension to remove the axle from the knuckle after you have loosen everything else up. You don't actually even have to remove the knuckle, but it might be easier to do it that way since it's your first time. One of many lessons from GD is to go to a bearing supplier and get bearing number 6207-2RS-C3. Get some seals too. Two bearings and two seals for each front wheel. In Portland I have used Mcquire Bearing and Applied Industrial, and I am sure there are plenty of others.

As GD said the Weber is probably your best bet, but if you are set on replacing it with another Hitachi you should get one for an '84. They are similar to your original but better...relatively speaking of course.

Sounds like after your choke disengages it won't run. Some more information would be helpful. Did you replace the carb with new or used? Carbs for the Justy are specific to the year of the vehicle. Has the carb been adjusted? Did you install it yourself?

Some Baskin and Robbins will also sell you dry ice.