ferox

Hey now nipper. I will admit that proboards has a disporportionate amount of punks, tourists, and arm-chair experts, but there are good people on there with good advice. I don't know why the hell that guy had a problem with your oil cooler set-up. He posts like once a year, but don't summarily judge everyone else. There's less than 1,200 people on that forum. USMB has over 20,000 last time I checked. Just because a question isn't answered doesn't mean members are disrespecting you. Not all forums can be like the USMB. If anything we could use more solid adults like you to help set the tone and lead by example. Don't let the children get the best of you by personally banishing proboards and publicly dis-ing the one serious Justy forum. {Hijack not intended}

I have been working on my Justy for a while now and they are great little go-carts. However, if you get one, plan on doing some work on it and probably a simple mod or two. Nipper came up with a good modification for increasing oil volume. They have an I3, so they don't get benefits of the H4 that we are all familiar with. Most of them only have five digit odometers and people tend to insist that their 20 year old Justy only has 29,000 original miles or whatever. They get 30-35 mpg not the 40 that people advertise, and people tend to ask too much for them in my opinion. Parts are harder to get than ea82s, but they are out there. They were sold in the US from 87 to 94. 89-94 are Gen IIs, but 89's and some 90's are carbed. I would recommend a Gen II because they have symetrical front axles. The 87-88s have different length front axles. 87's only came in 2WD. I am not trying to talk you out of one, but those are some of the main points to know. The ea82 can probably come close to the Justys mpg, but not as easily depending on how you drive. They are probably more maintenance free than the Justy. I like my Justy, but I got into it planning on doing a lot of work to it. They are cool cars in a fun novel sort of way. But if you just want a dependable car that will mostly just need regular maintenance then definately go for the ea82. A Justy would be dependable also, but most likely more work initially. An ea82 would also be much easier to EJ.

Portland, aka PDX, P-town, stumptown, little Beirut, Oregon

He originally posted that he wasn't getting power to the fuel pump as well. Apparently he is at least getting intermittent power to the pump if it started for a short while, but I did not see where that was addressed in this thread. If he has never checked the fusible links, he probably should anyway. They are easy to get to, and it is never bad to see what condition they are in.

Did someone already say check the fusible links?

The Justy was sold in the US from '87-'94 and was 100% Subaru. After '94 it became a rebadged Suzuki Swift but was not sold in the US.

I don't have a good answer for you, but I can give a few insights if you decide to go look for something. The inner seat rail attachment is approximately one inch higher than the outer. Justy seats are definitely narrower than other Subaru seats. I put Suzuki Swift GTT seats in my '88 and it was a PITA, but the Suzuki mounting system was very different than Subaru. I have a feeling you might not get much input on this topic, but I would suggest looking for something with a simple four point attachment like Subaru. You might be able to squeeze Loyale seats in, and (I don't work on Loyales) they might already have the same or similar height difference between the inner and outer seat rails. Loyales were also made in '88, which is a good sign in Subaru-world.

Even a good rack can have some backlash, which can make the steering wander both left and right. It's nice to take out the backlash anyway, even if that's not the true problem. It's something to eliminate as a possibility anyway.

If I am not mistaken, what I am really looking for is a 1.5 pitch, 60 degree taper nut, that is a larger diameter(21 mm?)than stock Subies lug nuts. I'll look into it. I found these: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75442&highlight=studs http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31721&highlight=stud

Yep, got mine. Cali model. Average fuel efficiency rated at 25 MPG.

So do Subaru wheels use special acorn nuts or something? Would an acorn/taper nut with 1.5 thread pitch not work?

I am just wondering if there is some reason why I can't/shouldn't put 1.5 pitch studs in my hubs so I can get ball seat lug nuts to run alloy pugs. Seems like it would be easier than trying to get pug nuts and while I don't have a problem with using the ball seat adapters, it would be nice to just run ball seat lug nuts. Is there any reason why I should not do this? The only reason I question it is because it seems there would be more talk of this as an option, but I mostly just hear about people searching for pug nuts.

I have been trying to figure this one out for a long time. I do labeled totes and shelves for storage, but I have accepted the fact that tools and parts are tidal. I clean them up, and in no time they have washed over the shop like a wave on a beach. Such is the heartbeat of an active work space. I still clean, organize, and purge even though I know I will be doing it all over again very soon. Yep, I carry everything in an old kitchen sink, just kidding. I do, however, bring about 120 lbs of tools in a wheeled toolbox. Ridiculous I know, and I could probably cull some heavy stuff, but I hate not having the right tool when I find the JY score. This has forced me to create a JY policy for when, Mr. Phillips Screwdriver, inevitably asks to borrow a tool...I require three of their tools, that I find acceptable, as collateral . Just today I guy asked me for a tool, he was a little indignant that a complete stranger would require three tools in exchange for one and needed further explaination as to my policy. He did return with three tools however.

Dual Range Transmission

Thanks guys Yeah I think that is what I am going to do. I basically have a complete set of records for this car down to the original window sticker, and I have found no evidence that the heads or gaskets have ever been changed, so it stands to reason that some fresh heads would do a lot of good all around. As naru points out, the guides have to be worn as well. I hate to break down major components of a very functional and dependable engine, but if I do it right :-\ it will be so much the better for it.

I have 273k on my '81 hatch. It drives great. I have got great compression. My oil stays clean and clear for a long time after an oil change. I have no real reason to do much to my engine, except my valve seals are starting to leak at a level that I am finding unacceptable. They used to just leak a little bit, and give off a brief oil burn-off in the morning start-up and be good the rest of the day. Now however, they are producing a more substantial cloud of burnt oil exhaust on start-up, not only in the morning, but also later in the afternoon after the car has sat all day. It's not James Bond smokescreen exhaust, but I find it embarassing and increasingly unacceptable. So I have been debating about redo-ing some extra heads I have and going through with the swap, but the only reason I have for doing so is the valve seals. The other factor in this is that I plan on EJ-ing the hatch, but I have to finish my Justy project first. At the rate I am going that won't be until summer. So do I bother with the head swap if I am going to yank the engine within 9 months? If I weren't going to EJ, I would just do the heads and be done with it, but right now I have several things that I could really use that time and money on. Can I replace the seals without removing the heads, and if so do I need to pull the engine to get clearance/access? For that matter, is it just the seals that are the problem or the guides too? I am usually not a proponent of chemical fixes for mechanical wear issues, but if I can't replace the seals without swapping the heads I would consider it for a short term fix. Thanks

Qualitatively speaking...yes there is a significant reduction in body roll. I love my gas-a-justs ('81 hatch). They made a huge improvement in driveability for me, but not everyone likes the stiffer ride. I do a lot of driving on curvy back-country roads and I like to carry my speed through the turns, so they are great for that. I have new GR2s in the front and all new bushings in the front suspension, but they are just the stock rubber not poly. My wife has gas-a-justs on her '84 wagon as well and really likes them.

The idle circuit is just the system of passages and brass metering bits within the carb that supply fuel and air at idle, which sounds straightforward, it's the identifying them on the carb part that is difficult. Unfortunately, I think the ea82 is sufficiently different than the ea81 that I can't point you to the correct place on your carb. I do think the part in your picture must be the ADV. Since no one else has chimed in about ea82 carbs, I suggest you get a manual (even the Haynes has a decent enough carb section) and use it to either identify the idle parts and pull the choke body off the carb to get to them, or, use the manual to do a rebuild. The rebuild is easier than it sounds, just be systematic. In either case, before you blast compressed air or solvent down the passage I suggest screwing the idle mixture screw in until it stops and count the number of turns so you know where to set it back to later (very important). After you know the number of turns, completely unscrew the idle mixture screw and remove it. Then blast away, and follow-up by blasting through the idle mixture screw hole before you screw it back in. Also, the ADV needs to be removed and either a finger placed over the hole, rubber stopper, etc,... or the solenoid "plunger" removed from the solenoid housing and the housing reinstalled during the blasting. Just make sure the inards of the solenoid are put back together correctly. Sorry if this doesn't help much. Owning a carbed vehicle in this day and age inevitably means you have to be able to work on it at least a little bit, because most mechanics don't know a thing about carbs and do not want to touch them. So if you are going to keep the car the way it is, ya might as well dig in. If this seems like a bit much and cash is tight, you might try to swing a used Weber off of the For Sale section.

The anti-dieseling valve is just a possibility, not necessarily a probability. Have you pulled off the choke body from the carb and blown out the idle circuit with compressed air? It is not uncommon to have to use mechanical and chemical methods to get these carbs cleaned up. I am unfamiliar with the part of the carb in your picture. It must be an ea82 thing. I wouldn't worry too much about the ADV until you have made all efforts to clean the idle circuit.

Which GM Alt do you have, the large case or narrow case? Most of the ones at the auto parts stores are the narrow case..see link. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=99921&highlight=narrow+case

You can also get to the rest of the idle circuit by taking the choke body off. I presume you have a manual of some sort that shows some fuel circuit profiles. I had to use compressed air recently to unplug mine. Also make sure the anti-dieseling solenoid is working properly.

You will need a multi-meter to identify the breaks in the wire elements.

It is certainly possible, but I would think that a clogged idle circuit is more likely. The anti-dieseling solenoid is a pretty durable part, but it does need power so it has two things to check on it 1) Does it get power 2) Does it function when powered. This is true for the EA81 carbs, and I assume it is the same on an '86 EA82. It's a 19 mm hex that is about an inch and a half long or so(the author of HTKYSA must have very small thumbs), and it does stick out of the front of the drivers side of the carb diagonally toward the drivers side headlight...on an EA81. With the car off and the key in the run position you may be able to hear the solenoid click when you connect and disconnect power. It will only click once per connect or disconnect. If I have time in the next couple days I might be able to post some pics and description of how I diagnose the ADV. It's a very simple part, and once you locate it, it's an easy check.

If it dies at idle and you haven't turned any screws yet, then it means you shouldn't turn any screws. It probably means you need to clean some gunk out of your idle circuit, check your anti-dieseling solenoid, or eliminate vacuum leak(s) to begin with. If you turn screws and you are not familiar with tuning carbs or I should say, Hitachi carbs, then it will only make it harder to tell if you have eliminated the likely culprits later. I just went through this myself. The paper element in my fuel filter detached from the filter body and my idle circuit plugged. It would run fine on the secondary, but would not idle at all. I rebuilt the carb, and ended up taking it apart two more times for cleaning with solvent to no avail. I had been planning to buy an air compressor soon, so I used this as an excuse to go for it. The magic blow-gun, when liberally applied to the idle circuit, finally got it cleared and the machine runs like a champ again. Just make sure if you pull the choke body and use air on the passages, that you remove the little plastic ball in the accelerator pump sump and the injector weight because they will go flying if you hit them right with the air.

Typo? Do you mean EA82/Justy are compatible?