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ferox

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Everything posted by ferox

  1. +3 on the kit. Just get the one with the little vial of copper solution or you can solder them too. Get a piece of aluminum foil and attach it to one of your meter leads. Attach the other lead to the main junction point where current comes into the defogger at the base of the window. With the car running and the rear defogger on, set the meter to 20VDC and slide the foil lead along each wire. You should normally see a uniform voltage drop across the wire, but the voltage will drop to zero or close to zero at the breaks in the line. I did this during the cold wet season, so I used a hair dryer to warm and dry each spot before applying the copper stuff. And clean it really good with alcohol. There may be mulitple breaks in each line, but I think you have to wait until the stuff dries before you can test that, maybe not, I can't remember for sure. The kit comes with a stencil for one repair, but I just used tape to mask each one and did multiple repairs at one time. Also, I used a dry-erase pen to circle the break points because it is easy to lose your spot when you go from meter to masking. Good luck, it's tedious, but it's definitely nice having the rear defogger in Washington and Oregon during the winter.
  2. The only place I have pellets on my car is in the vac lines that go to the choke pull-off dashpot(s). However, I work on ea81s and I have removed all the emmissions apparati since they were not working anyway. If there were pellets in the emissions vac lines, I have forgotten by now. There may be pellets in different places in the ea81s and ea82s, but check the ones for your choke pull-off and it will give you an idea of what you are looking for.
  3. I have done this swap on two ea81s and the "sense lead" or "field sensor" wire goes on the #2 spade on the narrow case 7157. I think the older version of the GM had the sensor on the #1. I don't know about ea82s, but the big wire might be your sense lead. http://www.teglerizer.com/alternator/wiring.htm As far as quality goes, it seems like if the ubiquitous chain-store reman alts make it through the first test drive, they last about as long as a standard mid-grade reman alt. I have really liked mine, but I also monitor my car constantly and trade in the old unit at the first sign of sub-standard performance. Swapping out for a new one at the store has always been hassle-free. If I didn't essentially have an unlimited supply of replacement alts, I would probably spring for a higher quality one somewhere. The nice thing about narrowing the alt. bracket to accept the GM is that you can easily put on the Nissan, stock alt, or others. I plan on pulling a Nissan alt from the yard (unless GD gets there first) and adapting it for a spare in case the GM decides to suddenly fail instead of the usual slow failure.
  4. Which spade did you plug the field sensor wire into?
  5. First, was your battery fully charged? You might also check your fusible links. The GM alts are not the greatest quality. I bought the lifetime warranty one for an extra $10 and I change it out probably once a year. I have also received one that was bad out of the box. That could be what you have got. If you bought it at a store, go back and have them check it.
  6. Check carefully, the '89 looks very similar, but has some differences. I can't elaborate since I have neither an '89 carb at the moment nor an '89 FSM It's not, and BTW your carb is obviously not "new". Where did you buy it? You should check to make sure it is not in worse shape than the one on the car. It is easy to make a carb look new. Do you have a multimeter? I recommend checking the duty solenoid (DS) of the "old" carb while it is still on the car. The diagnostic in the FSM is almost entirely for a DS that is installed. I can post a photo of the diagnostic flow chart if you are able to use it. I also recommend using Gasgacinch on the base gaskets to seal it really good, especially since the carb is such a PITA to remove and install. Check to see if the factory installed aluminum plug was drilled out to allow access to the idle mixture screw. Hell yeah, I was a wildlife treeclimber for many years in college and spent many a glorious afternoon in the canopies of California Redwoods. I have been around the world, and NorCal and Southern Oregon are easily one of the most amazing regions in the world. Y'know, whenever I went to Northern Cali I saw these little stickers on cars. They were of a golden five or seven -lobed serrate leaf inside a gold circle on a black background. What was that all about?
  7. Northern California It is my understanding that only the 1.2L was sold in the U.S. So chefgeoff, are you planning on swapping out an '88 carb? Depending on what your answer is, there may be more advice to follow.
  8. All '88 Justys came with two barrels (Hitachi DFC328), so if you have a one barrel, it's not original. Are you replacing it with another Hitachi from/for an '88? If it's used you will want to rebuild it before installation. Other than that the manifold nuts are a pain in the butt to get off, you might have to cut down a wrench handle.
  9. Thanks guys. I have seriously considered just leaving the engine in and seeing how far it will go, but at the same time it wouldn't be that hard for me to do the swap. Pulling the engine would allow me to really clean the engine bay, and I could install the engine and tranny as a unit. Plus, I have actually got two ea81s just sitting here with less than 200k on them. I haven't had the car very long and have only driven it about 40 miles, so it is also kind of hard to tell how it would do with emissions. Anyway, I have a hard time restraining myself from completely rebuilding things like this (hence my eternal Justy project), so it's good to hear what is important. GDs list is perfect and finite, I can do those things then step away, and most likely have some more reliable transpo until its EJ time...which is definitely going to happen, I just have personal rules about how many major projects I can have going at one time:lol:. Perhaps you can relate. Thanks again.
  10. Picked up another '84 wagon a few weeks ago with almost 390k on the odometer and a shot transmission. The engine runs great actually, but I have an extra ea81 with 160k-190k that apparently just needs new HGs that I was thinking about swapping in for the time being (EJ in the future). My question is...what else, if anything, should I do while I have the heads off? I do not have a machinists square or other precision tools to measure for warpage. Can I use a piece of glass and a feeler gauge? I have a 5 spd and Jerry's kit to replace the trans. BTW
  11. If someone knows more about the Hitachi carb than you do, they aren't sharing that expertise. So unless someone else shows an equal generousity with their time and knowledge I think you can safely say you are an/the expert.
  12. Air/Fuel screw is dependent on the timing and idle mixture. Make sure the timing is correct. On ea81s I think the idle mixture screw is usually turned out between 1.75-2.5 turns. I am sure ea82s are similar. It should get you in the ball park anyway. Then turn the air/fuel mixture screw right or left to bring the rpms into spec. If I am remembering correctly, turning the A/F screw clockwise increases rpms. There is a point where you unscrew it too much and it won't do anything to the idle speed. If that happens and your idle speed is still to high [EDIT-screw it back in until the rpms react to it] it means you have to adjust your idle mixture some more or there is some other problem. But as far as I know there isn't a set distance or number of turns for the A/F screw. Someone will correct me if I am wrong.
  13. The Hitachi carb on my '88 Justy has an integral duty solenoid (versus the external version in the EA series) that I am not fond of. I keep procrastinating rebuilding it because I know that thing is going to be a problem. The Weber 32/36 is designed to work on a 1.2L (Justy) but the only ready made kit Redline-Weber offers that is close is one for a 1.3 L Honda. Jerry DeMoss found one (1.3 L) in the JY, and I was going to pick it up from him, but it turned out to be damaged. So my question is, Is the 1.3L jetting probably close enough to the 1.2L or should I try to put something together custom? I have corresponded with Redline-Weber on this topic and they weren't interested in helping me. The problem I am finding is that no one has any experience jetting a Weber for a 1.2L.
  14. Good advice, I would also add that if you remove the choke plate and choke shaft assembly, when you reassemble make sure the pawl and all the levers in the choke housing look exactly like the diagram in the manual. The Hitachi was my first carb rebuild project as well, and I certainly don't want to discourage anyone. I just try to be as realistic as possible when advising people. It is easy to say pull it apart, clean it, rebuild it, but the first time on a carb of unknown history could lead to some frustration and it may or may not come together in one afternoon if ever. I think I have rebuilt about 10 of them now, and four of them turned out to be runners, the others are parts. I think the tricky part is knowing when the carb itself has issues or if you did something wrong during the rebuild or haven't tuned it right. That ability has to come from practice and experience, which I am sure has confounded many a first-timer. I will say this though, it is very satisfying to rebuild one and get it to run really well.
  15. You don't need a rebuild kit to clean the jets, but if your are going to tear it open you might as well. The Haynes manual has an ok section for carbs for the ea81s I would assume that is true for ea82s as well. If you have never rebuilt a carb before the Hitachi is not a good one to start on. It's doable, but expect to spend a lot of time trying to get it right and get your car running correctly. Most people would tell you to spring for a Weber carb, which is sound advice, but if you have the time and inclination, or zero dollars then tackle the Hitachi. Just expect your patience to be tried. You may never get a steady idle, but you can make it driveable. I swear half of the old carbed Subies in the yards are there ultimately because the carb needed rebuilt or replaced. Do a search or ten. These basic questions get asked literally every other day. You would normally get more responses, but people are probably suffering from answer fatigue on hitachi carb questions. All your questions have already been answered in the archives.
  16. For future reference, disconnecting the tie-rod end is not necessary for replacing axles if that is the reason you did it. And a $6-$10 tie rod/ball joint puller is worth the money. Sometimes the hammer works fine, sometimes it doesn't, and it's better to not bang on that stuff anyway.
  17. It may not be profitable if we just share opinions, but I was asking questions about MWEs for the benefit of people who ask about axles. It comes up all the time and people get opinions, but not a lot of actual information about the axles and real costs, etc. I was just asking you because you post-up about MWEs consistently, and I thought you could share some knowledge about them. This is my point about the new (needle bearing) axles not being well suited for applications that require absorption of vibrations or articulation that causes undue loading or friction on the bearings. It would seem that the ball bearing design and broken in parts of the reman MWE are more forgiving. You seem knowledgable about MWEs. With the anticipation that somebody might ask about axles again, I was thinking it might be nice to just consolidate people's collective knowledge for a real comparison. That way when someone asks again they can get the quick, informative run-down to make their own decision.
  18. No offense GD, but they take insurance fraud very seriously, and for the policy-holders sake I wouldn't suggest this approach. If caught, they could be prosecuted, they would definitely be dropped by the current insurer, and would never be able to get another policy. This is a good idea. Check with the BAR Association, sometimes there are special programs that provide a one-time attorney visit pro-bono and it might only take one letter from an attorney. If your parents have had the policy for a while then the insurer should be able to find a way to help you out. A lot of it has to do with the agent you are dealing with. Some of them are understanding and realize that the amount your parents have paid in, is a drop in the bucket compared to the claim. Others you have to show that it will cost more to refuse your claim that to pay it. They have more lee-way in the decision than they let on, and they don't want to show up on the company radar for something like this. Even with all the stuff that was stolen, your claim is peanuts to them and a lot to you. You might even have more pictures of your stuff than you realize in the background of pictures of other things. Even without receipts, pictures are evidence of ownership, especially with used goods. Don't let them not pay you, if they try to shut you down, get counsel.
  19. Do you happen to know which parts of the rebuilts are new/replaced and which are used core parts? What is the core charge? What to you usually pay for shipping? How long does it take to get them? What is the warranty or return policy? This "debate" over MWE or Aftermarket comes up a lot, so I would just like to suss-out a real comparison. There have been plenty of testimonials on each side and I will add a little bit more. I use the EMPIs, and my last set went for 40,000 miles until I took them on a 100 mile drive on wash-board gravel logging roads. They did not like that. They didn't grenade, but they were done. I put another set on, and they have been perfect for 2-3K now. It's my pet theory that the tighter tolerances of the new axles do not tolerate the drivetrain and other slop that most of these older cars have, while the ball-bearing remans have some intrinsic wear and different design that absorbs more of the slop. In my opinion, my car does fine with EMPIs because I have replaced and torqued just about everything in the drivetrain and suspension and it is relatively tight. Vibrations in a drivetrain would have a similar effect that the gravel roads had on my car. There are so many factors that effect the axles (trans. mounts, u-joints, transaxle stubs, wheel bearings, alignment, wheel balance, castle nut torque, etc.) that it is hard to isolate. I think both the EMPIs and MWE are good axles, but if you are going to choose one I think the real question is...what condition is your car in?
  20. I think about this too. My shop opens toward the street. Even though it's quite ways off the street, when I am working at night with the front garage door open I feel like I am in a display case. However, I figure when they look in my shop all they see is Harbor Freight orange and don't bother. So maybe you should paint all your remaining stuff orange. Hopefully the homeowners insurance company and agent are cool. And even better, hopefully they catch them, it happens. I don't know how many times I have been ripped-off in my life, and it is hard not to be really *ing angry and have it consume your thoughts for a while. Thwiekers suck
  21. I am totally into it, let me know when it comes up in the project rotation I currently live fairly close to West Linn, but I am planning on buying a house sometime in the next few months somewhere closer in to Portland (then the housecleaner might happen). Close enough either way. Sounds like a worthy project to me.
  22. I recently had the same problem, and in my case it was the Fuel Pump Control Unit. (Black box located next to the hood release under the dash.) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=99877&highlight=FPCU I also replaced the fuel pump in case the old one was drawing too much current and burning out the transistor. The old pump pumped well when connected to the battery, but that didn't really tell me how efficiently it was running. The car runs like a champ now.
  23. Glad I am not the only one. I have to enforce strict personal discipline on my project work in order to not twirl perpetually...and I have only got 4 Subarus and a Jeep. I currently live on 10 acres of property. I thought it was really cool at first. The etc, etc keeps getting in my way. Sometimes I fantasize about actually getting to the end of my project list , but I know I would just make another one. My parents and brother do the maid thing, and I have to say it seems like money well spent. I may do that myself in the near future. To stay on topic...if you ever build a TIG welder I would really like to check it out. I want a TIG, but can't afford one at this time. BTW you might check out prices on old wood chippers before you turn one into a TIG, they seem to hold their value like tractors.
  24. Thanks GD. That's what I was looking for. I have had varied experiences with Airgas myself. I couldn't agree more. Some tools are ok to go cheap on, but not these. You realize that your project list just got longer though right. Oh well, who wants to get to the end of the list anyway. You can just build bigger, better, faster now.
  25. Nice, congrats, I'm jealous. Did you get an industry discount or do you have any advice as to the best place to pick up a set-up like that locally?
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