ferox

I got my Duralast 7157 from Autozone as well, but I did grind off the 3/8 on each ear (much to my shagrin) and had to put a spacer on the pulley. Next time I swap it I will mod. the alternator bracket instead. It seems like the older 7157's I have seen in the JY are larger cased. Mine is 4 inches thick exactly. I was hoping other people that have done this swap could pull a measurement off theirs along with brand and place of purchase, so we could figure out where the thicker ones can be found. Duralast 7157 Autozone 4 inches thick

I recently took my '81 into Les Schwab for alignment, and they said they needed to replace the inner tie rods before they could do the alignment. They wanted to charge me $400 parts and labor, but I did it myself for $90. When I pulled my steering rack, I discovered the existing tie rods were in good shape, but my steering rack had a lot of backlash. I couldn't feel it from the steering wheel. I removed the adjuster screw and pushed some synth grease in there, then adjusted the back lash. It's super easy, and you don't have to remove the rack from the car. It made a huge difference. But I digress I took my car back to Les Schwab and had them do the alignment $55, and my car is so nice to drive now. It handles so much better. So the point of my story is...I would make sure the backlash is adjusted properly and take it to a professional for alignment. Schwab charges $55 and you can make $15/mo. payments. I think it's worth it, but don't let them sell you parts and labor. They don't know these cars, and I think a lot of steering components and wheel bearings get changed due to too much backlash in the steering rack. And what is worse is when they say "Oh your car is just old and worn out and there's not much you can do about it."

Hi Jerry! I'll be talkin' to you soon about your 1.3 L Weber rebuild. Wow. Is that 2WD or 4WD? 1.6 L or 1.8 L? What kind of fuel delivery system are you using?

'81 4WD 4MT ea81 Hatch 263k 13" wheels Just resealed my Hitachi carb, new fuel filter, new PCV valve, new driver's side wheel bearings, thermostat, and alignment and my mileage jumped from 27+ mpg to 31+ mpg. The machine is running like a champ too, very satisfying. I am sure the carb reseal did the most good. The base gasket had a definite leak. I also resealed the oil filler tube and the metal plate where the EGR valve used to go, so it's hard to say what is doing what, but it's all good. I am even a fairly aggressive driver...but not the obnoxious kind. On a side note: when that bad gas came through the PNW my mileage instantly dropped from 27 mpg to 22 mpg.

If you want more low end, then the Weber is the way to go. At least that is what people say. I am still running a Hitachi because I plan on doing the SPFI or EJ swap in the future, but if not I would have a Weber. You can get the Hitachi to run fine, but it takes some dedicated patience. They don't seem to tune in according to the traditional methods of carb. tuning and many of them are just kind of worn out. I have finally got mine running spot on. The Weber on the other hand should respond to the standard methods of carb tuning. It's worth the money if you are sticking with a carbureted ea81.

It might have a weep hole issue.?

This was also happening to me in my '81. However I have a rew rad., new heater core, and blend doors were all adjusted properly. I just replaced the thermostat and all is well. It heats up proper now. These cars pump out the heat when working properly, so there is no reason not to be warm enough. Obviously check the heater core through the heater hose temperature difference and the blend door cable, but if you haven't changed the thermostat or have an aftermarket one in there I would just change it out anyway. The thermostat is a part that should be bought at the dealer. There is a huge difference in quality and performance between SOA and aftermarket. I just got mine from Lithia in Oregon City recently for ~$19 with gasket. They had them in stock, also pick up a PCV valve while your there, also in stock ~$9.

I take it you are not having the flywheel resurfaced.? It is easy to remove the pilot bearing with the flywheel off the engine. I would suggest getting it resurfaced. It will make a big difference in the way your new clutch works. I know you don't have a lot of money, but it will probably set you back $25-$35 at a machine shop. To remove it from the flywheel while it's on the engine, the best thing is a slide hammer puller. I think I paid $30 for mine. There are other ways(google-pilot bearing removal) that don't cost money, but they have never worked very well for me and can really be messy. If you have a replacement bearing you can get medieval on the old one, just don't scratch up the flywheel.

My FSM says this: 1) Remove bearing out of holder by using a press. 2) Press bearing by using Press (899754112)[screw-type press] Note: Do not depress outer race. Before I had a press, I changed a TO bearing using a hammer and punch to remove, and a block of wood and hammer to gradually tap it in. I think I heated the bearing holder as well. EDIT: Froze the bearing holder. It is as straight-forward as it seems, just take your time. Also, check to make sure the bearing and holder slide on the input shaft all the way back and forth. I have taken a bearing and holder off of a 4WD 4MT and put it on another 4WD 4MT and the second input shaft was slightly bigger than the first. The TOB would slide on enough for me not to notice, but would jam when pushed further back on the input shaft. I got the tranny put back in with it like that, and it kept the pressure plate pressed. I think there was less than 0.5mm difference in the diameters.

I suppose, maybe if the return line was blocked or something. I unfortunately don't know the Carter/Weber at all. Generally speaking though I would double check the float adjustments with FSM specs even if it's an over-pressure issue, they are easy to knock out of whack just by assembling and disassembling the carb, and then go for the pressure regulator since it's a generic pump. Does the Carter/Weber have the sight glass in the fuel bowl like the Hitachi's?

Unfortunately I don't have a Factory Service Manual with the Carter/Weber in it to verify those numbers, but someone will chime in later I'm sure. A pressure regulator won't hurt of course, but it would be good to make sure your float is dialed in according to an FSM.

What specs did you use?

?

When you installed the float did you adjust the float level and needle valve stroke to specifications? Your willingness to put a new carb on it is good because the carb you have is generally not so good. Where are you located? Someone may be able to help you out with another carb.

Do you have any rubber conduit running from the roof to the hatch near the hinges? I can't quite tell from your post where the wires are coming out of your hatch and roof. If you had a pic you could save yourself a thousand words and 20 questions. If you don't have a camera, then numbers of wires and colors would be helpful.

An '81 should not have a vapor separator. As long as your fuel pump is located in the engine compartment near the driver's side wiper motor then you should have a basic inline fuel filter. There is a vapor separator in your car that is a built-in part of the stock fuel system located near the fuel filler hose. The FSM shows the filter located right before the pump in the engine compartment, but my '81 hatch has a bracket for a filter under the car in front of the rear driver's side wheel. It doesn't have the metal plate like later models have. The bracket is just attached to the car. If you have the bracket you could run a primary and secondary, but I just use the one filter and make sure it is changed on a regular basis.

I don't know about the Webers, but when you take out the choke mechanism for a rebuild on the Hitachis it's really easy for the fast idle cam inside the choke housing to rotate past the choke lever. When it does the symptoms are just like what you are experiencing. I am talking about the cam and lever inside the electric choke housing. The fast idle cam has a tiny spring on it and usually the adjustment pawl on the fast idle cam hits the choke lever preventing it (cam) from rotating past it (lever), but when the choke mechanism is removed it's all loose and the little spring flips the fast idle cam to the other side of the choke lever. It's very subtle. I have to assume that the Weber has a similar electric choke set-up. If you have a diagram of what it is supposed to look like, it's easy to check and fix.

If you do the GM alt swap I would recommend modifying the alt. bracket instead of grinding the ears of the alt. case. It is a lot more grinding than I thought it would be, and that can't be good for the alt. internals. On the first alt. I did that with, the regulator went out after 6 months. The second one is fine so far, but I can't just go down to the parts store, exchange it, and bolt it in. Next time I need a new alt. I plan on modding the bracket. I chose the GM model over the Nissan or XT6 because I figured it is probably more likely to be stocked in most parts stores. I like to do most of my camping in BFEO (BF Eastern Oregon), and if the alt. went out in the rurals, I would most likely find a quick replacement and thank myself for modding the bracket as I am bolting it in and driving away. If you don't have access to a welder let me know, mine is very portable.

I picked up a set of the adjustables at the JY last weekend and they have this on the side: 736791 Made in U.S.A. C7061 I could not find a make, but they must be the Monroes. Just a FYI.

That would also be a good time to remove your external voltage regulator and switch to an internally regulated alternator. Renaissanceman did the write up (see link). It's super easy. You might also consider a higher amp alt. while you are at it. I put a 100 amp GM in my otherwise stock '81 hatch and it's awesome. I probably don't live too far from you if you would want some help or would like to check out the set-up. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47847&highlight=alternator

Based on the passing lamp/headlight configuration...the fuel pump may be in the engine compartment near where the vapor separator is on later models, but the fuel filter is under the car in front of the rear driver's side wheel. No vapor separator, just the single filter. That is how my '81 hatch is, let me know if you want pics.

I would choose between the GR-2 or Gas-A-Just based on the type of driving the Brat is being used for. My '81 hatch and wife's '84 wagon are daily drivers, and we put Gas-A-Justs on them. They are possibly the best thing I have done for increased driveability (acceleration & cornering). I love them. Some people think they are too stiff though. If you are doing more offroad bumpy stuff, or like a softer ride, the GR-2's would probably serve better.

I have done a few DIY bed liner applications, both interior and exterior with good results. I think one of the keys to longevity is the etching type rust converter or self-etching primer. I have always done a good self-etching primer coat (2-3) before spraying the bedliner. I have also always used the spray can version which I'm sure costs a bit more. Rhinoline is of course going to be more durable, but more $. Definitely wear a respirator with some fresh cartridges because the self-etching primer and bedliner both have some hard core stuff in them.

This is actually really important. My wife used to just get $10-$20 of gas at a time in her '84 wagon which left a lot of inner tank surface area exposed to rust. She didn't have water in the gas problems, but the rust particles would pack the fuel filter almost completely full. We...I...haven't had to change the fuel filter since she started filling the tank each time, but ultimately I think I will probably have to drop the tank this spring, acid wash it, and coat it.

So I did not see anywhere in your post that the mechanics mentioned the fuel filter or vapor separator. Did they? Or has the filter been changed recently? If the fuel filter location on a Brat is the same as a wagon it is under the car behind the rear driver's side wheel. There is a metal plate with three(?) nuts holding it to the car with the fuel filter and fuel pump attached to the top-side. The vapor separator is in the engine compartment. Someone will correct me if I am wrong. I would suggest buying a manual. Even a Haynes manual will give you lots of important information that is easily understood by a novice. Also, you may get more responses to a more concise description of your problem, although thoroughness is also appreciated.