ferox

I saw a Loyale made into a nice two seater Bratoid around 7:30 a.m. this morning south of Oregon City near Beavercreek. Does it belong to a member? If so, you should post some pics. It looked very nice. Light Blue...looks like a sheet metal job with truck box and bed topper.

Changing the timing belt is not too bad. It can be done without dropping the engine. A FSM is basically the only manual for the Justy. Ebay is probably the best place to get one. My '88 is a Gen 1 Justy...carbed ('91=Gen 2). For the '88, the camshaft pulley has a 3 mm hole that lines up TDC with a mark on the timing belt. The camshaft drive pulley(attached to crankshaft) has a mark on it (opposite the key groove) that lines up bottom center with a mark on the aluminum crankcase plate. There is a plug grommet inside the passenger side fender well that you can remove to see the camshaft drive pulley better and loosen the nut to remove the crankshaft pulley. The procedure is probably the same for the EFI, but you should probably double check. The Justy is an awesome little machine, but if you are going to go Justy, get into it or get rid of it. As you have discovered, even the dealers know very little about the car, and most Justy's you pick up these days are basically going to need an engine rebuild. MPG's can be very poor for these cars without devout attention, and if there aren't good MPG's why drive an econobox deathtrap? That said...I love my Justy, and good luck!

I once argued with GD unsuccessfully about the power difference between the two disty's. The 2WD NippponDenso (ND) I had put in my '81 hatch rev'd the engine up quicker than the 4WD Hitachi. There were very pronounced differences in the way the two disty's drove. GD explained that it was probably a difference in the spring rates of the vacuum advance. I like the way the Hitachi drives better, but the ig. control module went out on mine recently. I have been running a different ND disty from the one I was using before, and this one drives a lot more like the Hitachi. So I think that is probably more anecdotal support for the vac. can spring rate idea. After a couple years of going back and forth between the two types and comparing and contrasting I can't see a difference in power, but there may be a difference in the way they behave ( if that makes any sense) which may even have more to do with the age of the disty (maybe the ND vac. can spring wears out and gets weaker sooner). I think general consensus is that the Hitachi is a better unit and I would agree.

Sorry it took me so long to get back to this. I have been very busy (including heater core replacement). Thanks to everyone with all the ideas, including rubber shotgun slugs. Skip, thanks for sharing your brilliant cigarette lighter set-up. I think I am going to have to make my own version of that or something similar. I appreciate everybody's input, and may your subies never be stolen.

So with all the theft lately I have really been thinking about installing disable devices in all my vehicles. I own four, three are subarus. If I go somewhere for a couple days all the rotors go with me, but I want something more like a switch that literally takes a second to disable the vehicle. My Justy will soon be reasssembled and resplendent, and I have convinced my brother that he needs a Brat...sweet temptations for would-be thieves At one point the condenser wire connected to the ignition coil on my Jeep broke and grounded out on the block, preventing the vehicle from starting. I was truly lucky in figuring it out quickly, and it gave me an idea. I connected the wire to a toggle and ground and it worked great as a disable switch. Looking at the engine you would never think twice about the extra little wire coming off one of the ignition coil poles. A determined thief would have a very difficult time seeing it. I eventually removed it because I didn't know if I was doing something bad by grounding the ignition coil to the chassis. So I have two related questions for the wise and experienced minds of the forum: 1) Does anyone know if there are deleterious effects from grounding the ig. coil to the chassis? 2) What are some good disable switch configurations? BTW: I hate car thieves. I REALLY hate car thieves, but do not point your gun at one unless you are personally threatened, plan to pull the trigger, and are alright with prison. It is even a crime to point your gun at someone without intent, and car theft is not life threatening. I understand the sentiment, but do yourself a favor...don't post intent in writing on a public forum and get yourself a 26" telescoping steel baton. The sound they make when you flip them to full extension is very similar to the sound of the slide cycling on a semi-auto handgun, but about 10 times louder.

I am sure these are somewhat amusing to people in the snow states and Canada, but not a bad snowing for the west coast. My wife's wagon is our snow gauge for now, so I might post a pic later for comparison. I wish I had a sled or inner tube.

Did you notice if there had been any work done on the throttle shaft(s) or throttle shaft bores? Or mention of it in the item description? Is this is for an '86 ea82? Glad to hear it worked so well.

If your car drove fine before your friend touched it, I would say first see if you can find out what he did. This also implies that the problem may be very simple. You can do a lot to make it run better, but you are going to need a couple things: 1) Timing light-this is an essential tool that can be purchased for a little $ or a lot. I personally would buy a light that also has an rpm readout, but you can get really cheap lights that just have the induction strobe. 2) A manual for your car-there are three basic manuals that I know of: Chilton's, Haynes, and a Factory Service Manual(FSM). The Chilton's is well known to be a poor manual. The Haynes is better, and the FSM is of course as good as it gets. The FSM may take a while to track down though. Any of these manuals should have the basic procedures and technical specifications you need. If you can only find a Chilton's it will suffice for now. 3) Aerosal Carburetor Cleaner-this will allow you to track down vacuum leaks and clean your carb a little. Get those items and read the instructions with the timing light and the procedure for setting ignition timing in the manual. Make sure the known vacuum leak is at least plugged. After that you should be able to set your timing. After that, I would replace all of the vacuum lines on the motor one-at-a-time, but if you don't want to do that, spray a burst of carb cleaner at areas of the vacuum system one at a time. If you spray the cleaner at say...a vacuum nipple where a hose is attached and the rpm of the engine changes in a noticeable way that means there is a vacuum leak that is sucking in carb cleaner. I also check the screws and bolts on my carb for tightness from time-to-time especially after driving in super cold weather. There are some screws you definitely don't want to touch without knowing what you are doing such as the fast idle screw, idle mixture, and air/fuel mixture screw, but you should be able to safely check the four nuts that attach the carb to the manifold. Your manual will have a detailed blow-up diagram of all the carb parts. I am convinced that many an old car goes to the yard due to simple vacuum leaks. I hope this helps. Get a manual and read it...if anything is unclear just ask.

To the Justy folks: I did the fabled Oil Pump Bushing Mod and posted a pictorial narrative on proboards. http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/index.cgi?board=engine&action=display&thread=2201

+1 I did something similar on my first rebuild. I took the additional step of scotch taping the parts I took off to the paper in chronological order and writing a small caption next to them. I only had a Haynes manual, but the carb tear-down and rebuild section was adequate to go through methodically. I have had to use a screw extractor to remove some of the float needle valve seats from old carbs though. Other than that it is pretty easy if you take it step by step.

The jack I have is the cheap H. Freight racheting scissor lift type with built in rachet strap on the saddle. It's pretty low profile with four casters. It's a POS, but it works great for these transmissions. Highness is essential...of the car of course. I make sure my car is as high as I can get it. I also remove the pitch stopper on the engine and run a compression strap through the rear engine lift eyelet and around the spare tire hold down bolt, so I can orient the pitch of the engine with the approach pitch of the transmission.

If you have difficulties with the install you are welcome to borrow my transmission jack. If I didn't have so much going on right now I would just offer to bring it over and help, but I'm swamped. I am sure you will probably get it done, but sometimes they can be a bugger, so...it's there if you need it.

The Justy does come in the single range 4WD MT, that's the one you want. The auto is ECVT. The '89 is the first year of the Gen 2 body style and I have seen both carbed and FI versions of it in the junkyards, so '90-'94 is FI. With a good engine most people seem to get about 35-42 mpg. 45 mpg is achieveable with a FI FWD, but a tired engine will drop to regular car mileage pretty easily. Justy's are cool cars, but they have their cons. Some parts are hard to find and expensive. I think new struts go for over $350 each if you can find them. And the oil pump issue requires a machine shop mod to fully correct. I think they were designed to have the engine replaced at 90,000 miles. The odometer only has 5 digits, although I have seen that '94's have six digits. If you want the high mpg's (which really aren't that high) you will probably be looking at doing some engine work. The plus side is that the engine is really simple. I'm just waiting for some $ to finish my rebuild. I like my Justy, but I am really only into it because of the 3 cylinder 4WD combo. I don't mean to sound discouraging, but other cars will give you the same or better mpg's with cheaper and more plentiful replacement parts. I would recommend the Justy if you are into it for more than just mpgs.

With a mix of hydrogen, oxygen, and vaporized gasoline in a system with constantly changing conditions (concentration, temperature, pressure) you cannot calculate meaningful numbers...it's intractable. It requires experimentation. kits = probably extra virgin snake oil concept = untested, undeveloped You can't say that existing technology doesn't do that, so future technology will never get there. Sure, some wire wrapped around a lexan core probably isn't going to get you very far, but I am sure the Wright Brothers were probably called quacks and a lot worse before they achieved flight. Just look at the career opportunity their open-minded perserverance provided for you. That's a good idea. If I were a garage scientist experimenting with this idea that would be my first step in determining if it even works in a real world engine and if there is a glimmer of success it would be the easiest way to explore optimization.

That is definitely not what I stated. My point is you can't say one way or another whether it works or not without experimental testing. It's just basic scientific method in which a hypothesis is tested and is either supported or unsupported. Skepticism is a foundational principle of scientific inquiry, but skepticism without inquiry is not science. If these statements are still referring to me, then I have to conclude that you did not actually read my post. You can drag out the "straw man" and HIT HIM WITH AS MANY CAPS AS YOU WANT. The claims of the people selling these kits do not seem credible. It is implausible that these systems can effectively be installed let alone work with as little effort as is claimed. If there is any merit to this idea it would seem to require extensive testing, tweaking, and modification. [EDIT: It is important to keep in mind, myself included, that HHO refers to oxyhydrogen and not hydrogen alone. With a combination of gaseous hydrogen, gaseous oxygen, and vaporized liquid gasoline in a combustion chamber with varying concentration, temperature, and pressure, predicted outcomes are theoretically intractable and must be investigated experimentally.] The quacks at MIT use a plasma reformer to generate hydrogen powered from electricity generated by the engine. If I remember correctly it uses up to 75W. This allows them to run ultra-lean resulting in 20-30% better fuel economy and drastically reduced NOx emmissions. This system is different than the HHO kits, but it shows that small amounts of electricity can be used to generate enough hydrogen to make a significant difference. Whether this can be done with an electrolyzer remains to be seen. http://www.greencarcongress.com/2005/11/hydrogenenhance.html http://www.sae.org/technical/papers/2005-01-0253 http://www.sae.org/technical/papers/2003-01-0630 http://www.sae.org/technical/papers/2000-01-2206 This is petty. As an engineer you should conduct yourself with a greater level of professionalism and maturity.

To play devil's advocate...without verifiable data it is just as unscientific to say a process does not work as it is to say that it does work. It doesn't matter what you do for a living, it's the scientific method. Chuck H's theoretical narrative about energy densities completely ignores the physical chemistry of the system and assumes the deflagration characteristics of the hydrogen and gasoline mixture are simply additive. That has to be determined experimentally, and this is not basic chemistry. Hydrogen injection in gasoline, spark ignited, engines is not a new concept. The Sloan Automotive Lab at MIT, Caltech, Oak Ridge National Lab, and many European labs have been working on this for quite a while, not to mention advanced proprietary labs that do not publish their data. You can check the SAE website or the specific institutional websites for more detailed references on their work. Their findings show a 20-30 percent increase in fuel economy. Additionally, the volume of published work on this subject has increased substantially over the past ten years indicating that the idea has not lost traction. Their systems are obviously not the same as these HHO kits, but the concept is sound and verifiable. And if you ask why every car doesn't have hydrogen injection it's because it's still experimental, and you would also have to ask why fuel efficiency has gone down since 1985. For whatever reason(s) fuel efficiency technology has not been exploited to it's fullest extent and a lack of implementation in the marketplace does not mean a particular technology doesn't work. The misleading part about the HHO kits is that they are marketed as plug and play...a couple of hours and you're good to go. Trying to install these systems in an engine that was not designed for it would be problematic at best, and would realistically need a custom ECU and delivery control system to do it right. The concept isn't snake oil...the kits are. Gravityman has the right idea about bench testing his system. It is disappointing to see so much ridicule leveled at the people that have brought up this subject on the forum. They at least are trying to produce some data. It may be garage science, but it is more scientific than calling people names and saying it won't work based on unverified assumptions and incomplete theory. It seems that the people attempting these conversions are using the 2.2, which presents an opportunity, albeit garage-science, for independent verification and repeatability. However improbable their success may be, it would be more scientific and more in-line with the experimental spirit of this forum to help them with their experimental design than to chastise and mock them. I don't have the money to order the academic publications that contain the processed data from the aforementioned labs, but they are reputable sources, so I rely on their abstracts. I'm not picking a fight, and I am not trying to be a d*ck. I haven't built this system, so I don't know how it performs. No one does until they do it. I think it is highly unlikely that these kits will work very well as an aftermarket mod, but the people taking on this challenge deserve more respect for their efforts.

I am not sure if this means you are giving up on the HHO, but if so, you should talk to Gravityman a little before abandoning the project. He's converting a 2.2 as well. McDave posted a link in the #3 post on this thread to his [Gravityman's] original thread on the subject. You might try sending Gravityman a brief private message.

I have mostly heard horror stories about these types of cleaners, but not Amsoil specifically. I have used them a couple times in ea81's with good results, but I didn't use it exactly as directed. Obviously it's a solvent wash of the lubrication system. I used the cheap stuff that just says Motor Flush. I followed the directions exactly to do the flush, but after I drained out the the nasty stuff I left the drain plug off and poured some fresh oil in the filler spout to push a little more nasty out of the pan. I then put the drain plug back in, changed the oil and filter, ran the engine for 10 minutes to wash out remaining solvent then drained it and changed the oil and filter again. It seems like a waste of 5 quarts of oil and an oil filter, but I think it did a good job of washing out any remaining solvent and a bunch more nasty stuff came out with the buffer oil change. It was a one time operation for each motor, and based on what came out I think it was worth it for a high mileage engine. I have heard of this stuff ruining engines though, so if you don't have a lot of crud in your engine and/or don't wash out the solvent you could run into problems.

Awesome. Thanks for the input. I kind of live in the country with lots of curvy country roads...sounds like the exact thing I am looking for.

Sorry, I know this thread is probably way over, but your response to my offer kind of threw me... A lot of collectors I know like to have an opened copy as a companion to their wrapped or boxed collectible. I was just offering to give you mine for that purpose. I'll take your initial response as a "not interested", I just wanted to clarify an apparent misunderstanding.

Thanks for your replies. Sounds like the product I am looking for. Any comments on the difference in ride as compared to a hydraulic unit? Originally posted by aba4430 Yes I am really asking about shocks. Thanks for catching that...I hate using the sloppy talk.

I am looking for stiffer rear struts on an ea81 wagon with little to no lift for the time being. I was wondering what people's experiences have been like with the KYB Gas-A-Just? I haven't found anything in my searches. If that's a no-go then can someone tell me if there is a model of ea82 rear coil-over that was "shorter" than others? Or put another way...did some ea82's come with longer rear struts, so I can avoid them at the junkyard? I'm probably not going so far as to install a rear anti-sway bar, but suggestions for stiffer struts/suspension with minimal camber changes would be appreciated.

I have that exact manual not in the wrapper, but in almost perfect condition. If you want a companion manual to your sealed copy let me know. PM me, I'll drop it in the mail.

You can always call Richie at Superior Import Repair (503-288-8634). He can get you prices and the low-down on the various manufacturers. If you buy from him you get the over the counter transaction from someone knowledgeable in Subarus.

I have to throw in my pro-EMPI testimonial. The front axles on my '81 hatch MT are/were new EMPI's. They are three years old now and still totally solid. I put a new EMPI front axle in the '84 wagon MT about a year ago, same deal...totally solid. I think the key word is "new" not reman. Maybe EMPI's used to be a lower quality product, but the three I have used have been great.