ferox

I was going to mention something about this earlier, but decided to give you the benefit of the doubt. Did you replace the ball at the base of the accelerator pump when you rebuilt the carb?

What is the status of the charcoal canister? Is it hooked up?

Did you replace all the soft fuel lines under the car?

Those are cool. I wanted one for years, but they've become precious. People want so much money for them now that, as far as I am concerned, they are no longer a good trail vehicle because of premium purchase price and the last USDM MY was 1991. That's why I went with a 2003 Chebby Astro AWD. 4.3LVortec V6, based on the 3/4 ton truck platform, shares the drivetrain with (Blazer, Jimmy, S-10, 1500, etc), factory rear LSD, tow-package, IFS, solid rear axle, direct bolt-in 4WD from aforementioned vehicles, suprisingly easy to work on, easy V8 swap if needed, safer...and about 1/5 the price or less of a comparable Syncro. Of course with the Astro or Safari you want the 2003-2005 MYs.

Air/fuel feedback system: O2 Sensor, IAC valve, MAF sensor. MAF sensor and IAC can be cleaned. Valve lash adjustment. These engines have manual valve lash adjustment. Super easy on the Justy. Check plugs, clean, gap. Also check for weak spark.

I have actually had a stripped hub that did not spin all the time...fyi

The button thing at the bottom of the bowl is the power valve. The plunger just pushes down on the power valve to open it, so if the plunger does not back off the power valve enough then it will hold it partially open. The plunger is actuated by the power valve diaphragm that is located on the top of the plunger in the choke body of the carb. Fuel flows in from the top of the bowl through the float valve and out the bottom.

If it doesn't happen all the time, you might want to make sure the power valve plunger/acuator is backing-off the power valve sufficiently to allow it to close. Did you replace the power valve diaphragm when you rebuilt the carb?

That condition is most often caused by a leaky power valve.

Not necessarily. The reason I mention it is because a stripped hub is the most common cause of a misdiagnosed slipping clutch.

Have you checked the front hubs to make sure they are not stripping out? Doesn't seem to match everything you are saying, but it's worth a look.

You have to keep in mind that there are 90 Subarus within a few blocks of each other at any point in Portland (that's not really any exaggeration) and they don't rust very fast here. Portland is thick with Subarus of all vintage, so he might have been stealing cars at random, but happened to hit 90 Subes in a row . I have even walked out of the grocery store on a couple different occasions and gotten into other peoples almost identical Outbacks by accident and did not notice until I looked around the interior. Ignition key would not work though.

Yeah, the wind chill created on the car from driving in those conditions is insane. Talk about a cold air intake. In the case of my ex, she drove in those conditions for 18 hours straight. I think it's a testament to the engineering that the only complication was that the CEL came on temporarily.

Let's see, she got a P0130 from an Innova scanner borrowed from Napa.

Strangely enough, my ex-wife called me a couple days ago because she drove from Antigo, WI to Edwards, CO in her 2001 Legacy (straight through) and the same thing happened. As soon as she started going up a significant hill in Denver the CEL came on. She scanned it and got a code for the A/F feedback system MAF, MAP, or O2 sensor circuit. My theory was that the extreme cold was making material condense on one or all of the sensors and that the best thing to do would be to clean them since that's a good thing to do anyway, and wait for warmer temps. She called back later to say that the temps rose to 50 degrees and the CEL went off before she got around to cleaning any of the sensors. I reckon there is a good chance that you are experiencing a similar phenomenon.

Damn, I don't even like chrome and that makes me want. Somehow the chromed valve covers really tie the whole piece together. Nice work Tweety.

It's entirely possible that a small sub-system can increase the fuel efficiency of a gas combustion engine. I don't see why so many people react as if it's impossible. It simply makes better use of a small portion of the relatively large amount of energy that is wasted with every revolution of the engine. The energy balance argument is flawed because it completely ignores the fact that most of the energy in the internal combustion process is not effectively utilized. For something that is 25% efficient, even small gains in the overall system will make a big difference. I don't have a working system of my own and I have never tried to make one, but to say it's impossible or that the car companies already would have done it is just silly. Until recently, fuel efficiency had been on a steady decline in new automobiles since 1985. They weren't interested in investing in fuel efficiency. Now, many new cars make 40 mpgs, which is what Sumoco is saying his system gets...that's totally plausible. He's not claiming 80 mpgs. The internet is full of dip$hits making all kinds of claims, but that doesn't mean you should forgo critical thinking. I use a sub-system called a bicycle to commute 9 miles home from work. Sometimes I run that same route and it takes a lot more energy to go the same distance, which is strange because with all the bearing friction losses and extra wind resistance from the bike you would think that it would take more energy to ride the bike than run. I know it sounds impossible, but I've done it and it's definitely more efficient to ride the bike.

Thank you. I was planning to go over that myself. The key word is efficiency. I think the internal combustion engine (even our blessed EJ22s) are generally regarded to be about 25% efficient. That leaves a lot of energy to be used more efficiently.

Anyone that claims they can debunk this on paper is deluding themselves. There are too many factors involved in mixing these fuels, feed rates, deflagration rates, and variable pressure, temp, and volume, etc. Yes the law of conservation of energy applies to state the obvious, but the system is theoretically intractable and has to be determined experimentally. There's a lot more going on than just an alternator performing electrolysis. Obviously everyone commenting on this hasn't been around long enough to remember the last time this came up. If you say nay, then build Sumoco's set-up and show us how it doesn't work. Otherwise, if Sumoco has added this system to his vehicle and is achieving 40 mpg then he has demostrating experimentally that it does work to increase fuel efficiency on some level and the law of conservation of energy still applies. Just because you don't understand how he did it and how it works, doesn't mean he didn't do it and it doesn't work.

Yep, K731. The Justy got carbs longer than the wagons of the same vintage, but it shares the same carb base.

So they Weber will have a completely different air filter that will not require modification. There will be things connected to the old air filter that you don't need, so there are things to remove and cap, but the air filter does not actually need modification. I would recommend buying a Factory Service Manual for an '88 if you can find one. The Justy shares the same carb base pattern as the Subaru GL with the ea82 engine. What you really need is the adapter plate (which comes with the kit or can be purchased separately) because the Weber is kind of a universal carb. The Weber kit for the ea82 should come with jetting that is close enough to use on the Justy as well so there's another added benefit. If you are not familiar with carbs, a new kit is probably a better choice. The throttle lever from the Justy Hitachi should bolt onto the Weber throttle shaft, so your stock throttle cable will work. You might have to modify the bracket that holds the throttle cable, but that's not difficult and the Weber kit usually comes with a couple extra brackets. Here's the kit I am referring to (K731): http://www.redlineweber.com/carb-kits/auto/subaru/ If you on not comfortable picking one up online, ShawnW on this forum can hook you up I'm sure. If you're not familiar with cars and carbs, there will be some challenges and learning experiences, but it's totally doable. Also, you stand a much better chance of finding a mechanic that is familiar with the Weber 32/36 than the Justy Hitachi if you get it installed but have difficulty getting it dialed in or something. Be prepared for you Justy to have noticeably more power after it's dialed in.

Hey bobchees3, I saw your post over on the Justy website too. Before you send the Justy carb to be rebuilt, I would recommend just replacing it with a Weber 32/36 DGEV for an ea82 engine. It would be an upgrade, they are new, they are a lot simpler, and would be about the same amount of money as rebuilding the Justy carb. I have worked on a lot of Hitachi carbs and I have an '88 Justy myself. The Justy Hitachis are simply not very serviceable.

As far as compression worries are concerned, you could always insert metal spacer slugs into the plastic along with metal spacer sleeves for the bolts.

I am not sure how many miles you have on your car, I used to do Seafoam down the carb, but when I pulled the heads for a head gasket job I realized I was just cleaning the top surface of the carbon deposits and making a huge nasty smoke cloud. It probably did some good around the valve seats but not much else. I do use Seafoam in the fuel every now and then and once every 30,000 miles in the oil. One thing that helps when putting Seafoam down the carb is to put it in a spray bottle and spray it down the carb. It helps control the amount you put down and you can give the sides of the barrels a good spritz.

It's too bad you already installed the manifold. Unless you are doing a stock restoration you can just unbolt the hard line cluster and get it out of the way. Unfortunately it unbolts from the bottom of the manifold. Many, if not most of those routing lines are for emissions control equipment that is obsolete and should be removed if you haven't done so already. Here are a few pics of the vacuum lines you need for the Hitachi. This is an '83 Hitachi btw. Make sure you know the difference between ported vacuum and manifold vacuum. Also, the vacuum line that I have labeled as vacuum gauge is referring to a temporary diagnostic connection point and isn't necessary for your purposes.