ferox

I always use gasgacinch. It's made for sealing carbs and is gas resistant. I also cut my own base gaskets from high quality gasket material that can be found cheaply at any auto parts store. Just coat the gasket with the gasgacinch and let it dry. It's like rubber cement, so it doesn't take long to dry. I usually do two coats, works great. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Edelbrock-4-oz-gasgacinch-gasket-sealer/_/N-25c6?itemIdentifier=214303_0_0_ http://www.gasgacinch.com/gasgacinch_002.htm

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Remember to turn the switch off when you park, especially if you crash.

Have you verified the rest of the jetting and cleaned and inspected the air bleeds?

How many turns do you have on your idle speed screw?

There is also a back-lash adjustment in the rack, but you would want all your front end bushings and ball joints, etc,...replaced before doing that adjustment.

You might try reinstalling your disty again now that you know where to look for the timing marks. Start your timing at 8 degrees BTDC and advance up to a max of 10 after you have it dialed in for sure. Change the fuel filter if you haven't already. There are lots of other possibilities, but those are some usual suspects.

If you want to learn carbs you can either get a $30 rebuild kit for the Hitachi or a Weber for around $300. The Weber will probably get around 2 mpg less than the Hitachi, and it's actually more difficult to tune than a Hitachi. The advantage of the Weber is that you can get them new and they are a true progressive carb. The SPFI swap would be a superior and more permanent solution. Since GeneralDisorder did the research, the mod, and write-up I would suggest talking to him since his shop (Superior Soobie and Import) is in Milwaukie. It's not exactly close to Hood River, but it's not out of the question either. He would be able to give you advice or you could hire him to do the swap for you if you wanted.

You need two. I don't know the size, but you could take one of the rivets to the hardware store to compare size.

It sounds like you have a short in the running light circuit. It could be the switch or any other wire or component in the circuit. If any of the wires have lost insulation and are grounding out on something they could cause this issue. If you don't want to break out the multimeter, I would recommend checking locations where you have done some work and have moved wires around This is a bit of a remote possibility, but you might check the bulb sockets in the tail lights and/or turn signals. If memory serves, one of the wires that "connects" to the socket is actually just pressed between the outside of the metal socket cup and the plastic fitting/housing. I refurbished the ones on my hatch and was surprised to find the wire is designed to just touch the side of the socket instead of actually being attached. They are in there pretty tight, but there was a lot of oxidation on mine so I cleaned them and soldered them. Again, it's been several years since I did this, so I don't remember the details, but when I pulled apart the sockets I was surprised they worked at all before I soldered them. Bulbs last a lot longer now too.

No, I already have the screws for the choke housing from past rebuilds. You have to drill the rivets out of the choke housing to take it apart. Once you have screws instead of rivets you can open and close the choke housing at will without having to drill out the rivets and replace them each time. What it means is that you are going to have to get your own screws separately if you want to do that for your rebuild. Of course there is always the possibility that the Beck Arnley kit will have screws even though they aren't pictured.

Rivets

My mistake. It's a GP Sorenson that I get at Autozone. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1984-Subaru-GL/Carburetor-Kit/_/N-ikfqjZ8vd1z The kit that is pictured on the Autozone website shows rivets instead of self-tapping screws, but I have always received the self-tappers. The Beck Arnley at Rockauto is a good kit as well. It shows rivets, but you might get self-tappers. The rivets will work and you can always get your own screws, so it's no big deal either way...more of a convenience really. Both kits are good. I am going to order a kit tonight, so I will report back what I get in the box.

I get the Beck Arnley rebuild kits at Autozone because they come with self-tapping screws to replace the rivets in the choke housing. It's a good kit in general too. You might want to order a kit for an '84, or they could mistakenly give you a rebuild kit for an '85 ea82 Hitachi.

I take it you bought a used carb and someone swapped out the original coolant choke for an electric choke. Now you just need to verify your jetting and get your PCV system corrected. I suspect you do not have a 50 for a primary idle jet at the moment.

Timing should be 8-10. Jetting is listed in my signature. You are going to want to do more research to find the proper PCV routing. You say it's an electric choke but list a DGAV carb?

Yeah the 2wd version is the same as the 4wd other than the center bore. I actually have a set that I was planning to post for sale, I just haven't gotten around to it. $25 + shipping for the pair if you're interested. I also have the hubs if you need them. I would recommend taking the backing plates to a machine shop to have them open the bore to the correct diameter. It would be a fairly simple thing for them to do, so it shouldn't cost too much, but I do not have a ball park figure for you.

I've used this stuff with good results. http://www.stp.com/products/oil-additives/oil-treatment/ My solid lifter ea81 doesn't have a tick, but it runs real quiet and smooth with the STP treatment. I don't use it all the time, mostly on road trips. It's cheap and readily available too.

Gasgacinch is the best sealant for carb gaskets. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Edelbrock-4-oz-gasgacinch-gasket-sealer/_/N-25c6?itemIdentifier=214303_0_0_ http://www.gasgacinch.com/gasgacinch_002.htm

I've used the rope-in-cylinder method many times with great success. Many people will freak-out saying this is a bad idea, and it certainly can be, if done poorly. The three main things to make absolutely sure about is the the cylinder you choose is on the compression stroke, use high quality supple climbing rope or cotton rope (the thicker the better), and feed as much of the rope into the cylinder to make sure the cylinder is stopped low-enough (but not so low that any of the valves are open) in the stroke that it doesn't bind the rope at the top of the stroke. I have a dedicated piece of rope for this that is essentially the same size as the spark-plug hole. Do not use cheap, coarse nylon rope, or stiff rope of any kind. Since you have your engine mated to the transmission, I would use the gears and chock your wheels first before using this method. I usually only use this technique for engines that are not installed. Like I said before, I have had people flip-out when I told them I use this method, but I have done more times than I can remember and have never had a problem; however, I am very careful every time I do it. It has it's risks, but if done properly it works great.

Thanks guys. That's the verification I needed.

I don't have pictures of the things you mention but I do have labeled pictures of an '83 Hitachi with the things you need to keep from another thread. You can do some process of elimination.

So I have a few of these hubs laying around that are identical to ones that I just sold with a rear disc setup, but I was wondering if they are also front hubs. I had some others that had did not protrude inboard as much as these, so I want to determine if these are rear disc specific.

It's well worth doing the full rebuild. ~$30 for the kit at Autozone. If you just want to adjust the float, as Tremmor said, you have to remove the choke body of the carb, which is basically the entire top of the carb. If you have access to compressed air you can remove the choke body, adjust the float and pull and clean the emulsion tubes and such that are found under the lid, so to speak. If you rebuild, you get a new float needle and seat, accelerator pump, o-rings for the venturis, etc,..so there are some major advantages to doing it up right. Either way, I always tell people to cut the wire to the anti-dieseling solenoid and put spade or bullet connectors on it so you can unscrew the solenoid without twisting off the old original wire.

The front wheel bearings on the Justy are the same style as the old gen GLs. There are two per side, and you do not need a press. You just need and hammer, soft metal punch and the ability to drift the new bearings in around the edge of the bearing. Super easy. The rear bearings are slightly different, but again super easy. Lots of manufacturers to choose from. Sealed or no. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1119660&cc=1269132