ferox

If they are too worn, then you have a safety issue similar to the video.

It depends on what kind of gas mileage you are getting with the Weber. If it is tuned correctly then the difference may be slight. Many if not most Webers that run great are not actually tuned in. If you are not getting high 20s for mpgs, then it's not a proper comparison. FI will just be better. It's kind of like comparing a computer to an adding machine. FI will also be superior if you are at elevation...say 3000 ft or greater. So the real question is, again, what kind of mileage are you getting with the Weber? Or, if you are not getting 27-29 mpg with the Weber, then FI will give you better efficiency at every elevation.

You may need a 45, but you should be able to get it dialed in pretty good with a 50 primary idle jet. My Jeep runs 50s as well (the only Weber I currently own). The 45 was too lean and the 50 is too large, so I went with the 50 and turned the idle mix screw in further than Weber spec (1.6 turns rather than 1.75). It runs really great that way. Someday I may order a 47 for it, but for now it works great.

The secondary idle jet should probably be a 50. With a 60 it won't transition very well, and will be boggy when you put your foot on it.

Sweet, welcome. I recommend at least one Subaru of each generation. I am sure we can find a use for your skills.

Many Justys have received Weber 32/36 carbs. The Justy intake manifold shares the same carb base as the EA82 motor, so that is the adapter you would want. The displacement of the individual cylinders for a 1.2 L Justy (0.4 l/cylinder) are not much different than the 1.8 liter (0.45 l/cylinder), so I would start with the base jetting for a 1.8 L and adjust the jetting down if needed.

If the engine was hydrolocked it wouldn't turn over, so that is not your issue. I assume in your original post you meant that it won't start. Seafoam can be used many ways. The instructions are pretty easy to follow. What year is your GL?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/144335-weber-jetting/?hl=weber%2Bjetting

I have never heard of this. When I did it, it worked perfectly. What kind of things have happened?

So, I kindly suggest you to try advancing the timing, instead of retarding it; try it at 18º or around that and give us feedback. An ea81 will not tolerate 18 degrees. 10-12 degrees seems to be the sweet spot for a Webered ea81.

That's good to know. Probably should have expected that from Subaru.

It's best that you start your own thread on your specific topic since this is a recent thread. Sounds like you need to go through the tuning procedure for a Weber. Instructions can be found on the internet pretty easily. It doesn't really sound like you have a vacuum leak, but you won't know anything until you have tuned it properly.

That's a nice looking Hatch. Interesting that the grill style you have only came on the '82's in the US. I like the blacked-out chrome. I am going to do that to mine eventually. Does your Hatch have the third-eye passing lamp in the middle of the grill?

RTV...for how long? Not long. Grab some gasket material at a parts store and cut your own gaskets. The phenolic spacer makes a good stencil.

Sounds like fuel starvation so far, but you didn't really describe what it's doing. Is it bucking and surging or bogging,etc? I would suggest trying Gloyales oft repeated advice of popping the top off the carb, removing the emulsion tubes, blasting some compressed air down the passages, and clean the e-tubes themselves. While you are at it, check your float level, and I would probably remove the idle mix screw and blast some compressed air through that part of the circuit too. Pull the main jets as well to make sure they don't have barnacles, and check the base of the accelerator pump cylinder for gunk. That said, if it were me, I would just rebuild the carb.

The accelerator pump diaphragm may have ruptured. Rebuild kits come with a new one.

It's easily worth it to get the exact correct jetting. There are very few automotive parts that have a greater benefit/cost ratio than proper jets. With the primary being that rich you would get shitty gas mileage and it wouldn't idle very well with the idle screws set within Weber spec. I would order a 45 idle jet along with a 50. The less you have to turn in the idle speed screw to achieve stable idle within spec, the better your throttle response. As you go down in primary idle jet size your idle speed should increase which should allow you to dial back the idle speed screw. With an ea71 and larger tires you're probably going to want all the throttle response you can get. With a decent ea71 and mud treads at 3,000 ft I would expect to get 21-24 mpg depending on the tires and driving style.

Based on what you have, the most important jet you should change is the primary idle jet.

mains 140/140 Primary air 170 Secondary Air 160 idle jets 50/50

One of the '80s vehicles that came with FT4WD with a lockable front differential would make a badass rally runner, but they are extremely rare and impractical. I know you are looking for pre-90's, but for rally I would go with an Impreza or '90-'94 Legacy. As others have stated, finding body and mechanical parts is starting to get more difficult for ea81 rigs and even ea82s. I have been planning a build on my Hatch for years, but now I have to reconsider how I am going to use it once I build it. The junkyard situation has changed a lot in the past couple years. It wasn't that long ago that there would be 6-8 ea81 vehicles in the yards near me at any one time. Now, sometimes there aren't any. Ea81 vehicles have bad understeer too. Having the steering toed-in properly for rally would burn through tires for regular driving. You could of course adjust your toe per driving activity, but that's a little bit of a PITA. The bulk of the Subarus in the yards now are the '90-'94 Legacies. The best rally option would probably be an AWD Impreza sedan or possibly the Lego sedan with a 4x4 by-pass switch. The Impreza would be lighter, but the Lego would have a longer and wider wheelbase. You might want 4.11 or 4.44 gears. Rear LSD, front OBX helical LSD. Many of the parts on the Legos interchange with the Impreza. If you start with a car that already has the engine and transmission you want, then you can spend your time and money on customization.

Hitachi's really aren't any more difficult to tune than a Weber, in fact they are probably easier; however, you can't get a new Hitachi anymore and the Weber has a better progression. That said, the only reason to spend $200 on a reman Hitachi vs $300 for a new Weber is if you are really into squeezing out every mpg possible, like 1 or 2, or your penny wise and pound foolish. The only time it pays to run the Hitachi is if you rebuild it yourself (~$40). It uses the same number of vacuum hose as the Weber. The Weber will basically give you more power and great gas mileage if tuned properly. 1) If the carb floods like you described, it likely has something to do with the float, needle, and/or needle valve seat. Since it only happens every few months, it might be crud getting in your bowl valve or some other intermittent issue preventing the valve from closing. It could also possibly be a leaky power valve or sticky power valve plunger (also located in the bowl). 2) Wheel bearing noise usually becomes evident in turns. Not saying the noise you hear isn't a wheel bearing, but it might be something else. We probably need more info. 3) Adjust your valve lash. That's a maintenance item that often gets neglected.

That sounds about right. I have used one set of FEQs. They lasted about a year. I also ordered a set for my Justy and they arrived without the circlips for the DOJs. The Cardones are kind of hit or miss. You might get one that lasts a long time or it might be clicky out of the box, but your chances are better with a new Cardone than FEQ.

No offense Gary, but you haven't used an aftermarket axle in how many years? I know you are all about OEM, but I'm not sure what debacle you are referring to.

I would still go with EMPI of all the aftermarket options. The set I have in my Hatch have been going strong for approximately 3 years. I am probably going to swap them to the other respective sides soon, but they are not showing any indication of wear yet.

You do know that you are supposed to grease those right? Brake and Caliper grease is your friend.