ferox

I have had good luck cleaning hard fuel lines with stainless steel cable. You can get a size so it is pretty close to the ID of the fuel line and even chuck it in a drill and basically polish the inside of the line. Of course you can only run the drill in one direction, but it works great.

For these engines you should be shifting at higher rpm like 2,800-4,500. I have a stocker and I usually shift around 3k, but if I am going up a hill I take it to 4K. With more unsprung weight you would want to be in the higher portion of that range. I would recommend putting the timing back to 8 degrees and shifting between 3,000-4,000 rpm, then gradually move the timing up until you hear the engine protest up a hill, it can sound more like a tick or rocker slap in these engines.

Why did you have to take the top off the carb and what did you do when you had the top off? Gas shooting out of the carb is often a timing or valve issue. There really isn't anything that you could have done to the carb to cause that by itself.

At what rpm range do you shift up?

Make sure you have a 225 mm clutch kit. Some of the earlier ea81s had 200 mm clutch discs. Last time I had an ea81 flywheel turned it was $50. There is a removeable step ring on the ea81 flywheels that needs to be machined along with the surface of the flywheel itself so the relative difference in the "heights" of the surfaces of the flywheel and ring remain the same. Otherwise the pressure plate will sit too far off the flywheel to properly engage the clutch and you may experience a slipping clutch that is brand new.

Bad: Heat gun was bad out of the box. Not much of an issue other than having to make a return trip. Good: The 60 piece tap and die set. It goes on super sale for $30 every now and then. I have cut a few threads, but I bought it to chase threads. It's not a chaser set, but with some WD or other oiil it's great for grinding the rust out of threaded holes, nuts and bolts. Seems like it might be a good thing to have in the rust belt. You can clean up cast iron pretty well with it and not worry about your tap and if you have a nice tap and die set you can save wear on it.

Sounds like a classic vacuum leak.

If your Brat is stock then you will need the 1.75" air filter. If your Brat is lifted and the engine has been dropped in the engine compartment, then you might be able to use the 2.5". No reason not to use the manual choke, unless you are forgetful and prone to driving around with the choke on all the time. I have one on my Jeep and it works great. I did have to adjust the length of linkage that opens the butterfly, but other than that it works as it should.

Yeah rebuilt Hitachi, looks like an '83 variety.

Yep, gaskets. Most of the aftermarket ones are junk...paper with a metal ring. I search until I find the full metal version.

Coolant leakage into the interior is typically from a leaky coolant control valve behind a kick panel to the right of the accelerator pedal. That would be the first place to check. If in fact you do need to get to the heater core, you just need to pull the dash back from the firewall. When I did mine I dropped the steering column, removed the center console, unscrewed what I needed to and pulled the dash back from the passenger side. I did not have to pull it back too far to gain access to the heater core. It was a lot less work than I anticipated.

Sounds like the secondary passages are clogged or the accelerator pump is shot. If it's been on there for years without any maintenance, then it's probably time for a rebuild or a cleaning at the very least. The rebuild kit comes with a new accelerator pump diaphragm.

I would compare the '85 and '86 side by side if possible or take pictures of one and compare it to the other one in person. They are probably not that different (if at all) and it may be something as simple as a different electrical plug design. Since the '85 was the first USDM model year for that vehicle, they may have made some design changes to the carb to correct deficiencies. I would suspect that the '86 would work just fine and may even be a better carb if it is actually different than the '85. You could also try converting your coworker into a Webered soobaholic.

Sounds like ea71 or ea81 is not your issue. It sounds like your current engine is very much out of adjustment. Worn valve seals cause oil smoking on start-up but then it goes away. With 44k it should be running way better. I would make sure your timing, carb, and PCV system are working properly. Check and adjust valve lash. Check the charcoal canister valve. A little Rislone in the trans fluid seems to help the 4MTs. Your transmission mounts and or shift linkage might also be shot, which will affect shifting and power transfer. That said, an ea81 and 5MT would be a nice upgrade.

Ok, well if there is no sight glass on the side of the bowl, then you need to pull the top of the carb off and check the float level. Like Naru says, it seems somewhat inconceivable that the float would go out of adjustment but they do and not only that but they can get way out of adjustment. You have to pay close attention to what position the float closes the needle valve because the needle is spring loaded, so the valve will close before the float is out of travel. Also check to make sure your main jets are fully seated and the washers are in good condition. The power valve (if present) is located on a little bench in the float bowl kind of between the two main jets. The plunger is metal with a spring and is staked into the top of the carb, so it's not removable. I have recently seen Euro spec Justy carbs for the EF10 engine that did not have a power valve. The Justy shares the same carb base as the Loyale. The picture in the link you provided actually looks like one of those Justy carbs. The only sealant I use on carb gaskets is called Gasgacinch. It's made for carb gaskets and is allowed to dry on the gasket before installation. Not sure how available it is in Finland. I also cut my own gaskets out of high quality gasket material. If I did not have access to gasgacinch, I would not use a sealant at all, but that is only true for use with high quality gasket material. http://www.gasgacinch.com/gasgacinch_002.htm http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/310384057980?lpid=82

Does your carb have a sight glass on the side of the bowl? If more tuning doesn't bring the emissions to regulatory spec. you might check your float level and power valve in the bowl. Check the power valve washer to make sure it's intact. Clean the power valve with carb cleaner. I usually use a piece of guitar string to carefully ream the tiny port on the side of the valve. Sometimes the power valve plunger gets a little bound as well. If this is the case, clean it with carb cleaner and push the plunger in and out by hand to work out any debris. It will probably take a few cleanings like this, but you will likely feel it start to plunge more smoothly. Then give it a light lube with some light petroleum based lube like wd-40. Don't use silicon or penetrating oil. Even if this is not your problem it can only help. I am not as familiar with ea82 Hitachis so disregard my descriptions if they don't match your Euro spec carb.

+1 Many if not most people go to the Weber because they are unnecessarily intimidated by the Hitachi rebuild or have false preconceptions about it's worth which are perpetuated on this forum by people who don't really know. In reality, tuning the Weber correctly requires as much, if not more, attention to detail than rebuilding a Hitachi. Individuals that don't want to deal with learning enough about carbs to rebuild the Hitachi generally probably don't get their Webers dialed in correctly. I do consider the Weber an upgrade, but only if it is properly tuned, otherwise it's really just a band-aid that is an order of magnitude more expensive than the Hitachi rebuild.

Anytime, I know you are going to do a great job and keep another one on the road...and off the road for that matter.

Ah yes indeed. If you want a straight replacement brake parts I would stick with searching for you model and year. If you can find an '83 or newer ea81 vehicle I believe you can swap out the upgraded front rotors and calipers. They went to vented rotors in '83 I think, which will give you better performance and are more available. If you can lay hands on a rear disc brake swap then I believe that is also a direct bolt in swap. I could be wrong, I don't have any Gen 1, but I did the vented front and rear disc swap on my '81 and it made a huge difference in braking performance and the parts are easy to find and fairly affordable.

What year and vehicle do you have?

So here are some pics of what you should be left with after you are done removing the emissions gadgetry. My car flew through emissions testing a few months ago by the way. This is an '83 Hitachi but it's basically the same thing as your '84 but it only has one dashpot for the choke pull-off. I also do not have an EGR valve. I'm not anti-EGR, but I blocked it off when it needed replaced, but I lived way out in the country and didn't feel like spending the $50+ time waiting on a new one. If you are going to run an EGR then you will have to T into a ported vac line. Also, I kept the charcoal canister, but replaced it with new. The purge valves wear out on the canister and create a vacuum leak. This is on an '81 so I removed all vacuum solenoids, thermo vacuum valves, hard lines routed under the manifold, silencers, filters. Anything emissions related was gone. The hardlines under the manifold are just transfer lines and are not necessary to remove, but it cleans things up a bit if you do. I think you might have to remove the manifold to do it right though. An '84 has even more stuff to remove, most notably the ASV set-up. I always cut the wire to the idle cut-off solenoid before removal and attach connectors to aid removal of the solenoid. The wire at the base of the solenoid breaks easily if you don't cut the wire.

Basically any inline pump designed for a carb will work. You can search for a pump for an '84 wagon with an ea81. That will probably give you better results and it's the same pump. I recommend you also adjust the valve lash to spec, and if you can get it to idle at operating temp, then verify the timing.

Yeah Briankk, we don't mean to dogpile on you, but I think it's safe to say that when people get on here and blame the equipment, it triggers annoyance in many of us, which is probably true for any 4X4 forum. Imagine if you will, a parallel hypothetical situation in which someone posted:"The stopping power of the Subaru is overrated. We had 6-8 inches of snow and when I came up to a stop light and hit the brakes, I slid out into the intersection." Would that be an equipment issue or an operator issue? Many of us went through this when we were teenagers so it's kind of second-nature at this point and seems inherently obvious even though it's learned. Anyway, didn't mean to gang-up on you, we're here to help.

When you say you have a "Weber" I am guessing you are actually talking about a Carter-Weber stock single barrel carb. This carb is very different than the heavily favored Weber that people talk about on this forum. Not many people comment on Carter-Weber issues because it's generally regarded as junk that needs to be replaced. That said, obviously it can be made to run correctly, but you probably won't get much tech support simply because not many people have spent the time to figure out how to repair or maintain them. I am not sure of the availability of carb rebuild kits for these carbs either. Not trying to discourage you, but if you want to keep the Carter-Weber, you're probably going to have to mostly rely on yourself to get it ship-shape. If I am correct and you have the Carter-Weber and you want to switch it out for a better carb, then unless I am mistaken you will need either an ea71 intake manifold for a Hitachi carb or make an aluminum adapter plate for your existing manifold. So are you saying fuel is actually leaking out of your fuel pump, but not from the fuel outlet? If that is the case, you need to replace it immediately.

So, have you done anything to the carb? As you mentioned, fuel filters would be the first thought, personally I would just replace them anyway even if they look clean. My filters always clog once they switch to the winter ethanol fuel mix and the elements look totally clean. I would suspect the carb before the fuel pump, but you can check the pump for function easy enough. I would say the carb needs at least a rudimentary cleaning and float set to at least kind of rule that out. I always recommend a carb rebuild if you have just purchased a car that doesn't have recent carb maintenance or replacement records. Based on the abilities you have demonstrated in past threads, I don't think you would have any trouble rebuilding an '84 Hitachi carb. It's really not that difficult if you can follow step by step directions. Haynes brand manuals have the FSM carb rebuild section. Most of those vacuum lines and various defunct emissions control solenoids on the engine need to be removed, not to mention ASV stuff, etc,... You would want to do that anyway, even if you are planning to eventually Weber it. Autozone sells a good Beck Arnley rebuild kit for the Hitachi for ~$30. I always just replace all the vacuum hoses too. If you do, make sure you locate the orifice restrictor(s) in the choke pull-off vac hose. If you're interested I could probably post some pics of my ea81. It's got the Hitachi, with all the unnecessary vac lines removed. Have you verified the timing and vac advance function?