benc.

I am in the process of putting my 2.5 phase I back together with the new head gaskets, and I have a couple of questions: 1. Should I use sealant on the new cam seals? 2. What is the torque spec for the three brackets that holds the cams down? Intake/Exhaust are different? I did a little research on here for that and people are saying different things, so anyone have a definitive answer? 3. Is the tightening sequence on the Haynes manual for the head bolts the most accurate? I've heard other wise? Thanks again for the help!!

When I installed the HG it was a preventative measure, about ~30000 miles ago, the engine has 190000 right now. Done by myself, definitely not an expert but an average mechanic. But the heads were machined The HG was an off brand from e-bay, one of those where you pay $75 and get a box full of gaskets and o-rings. If I am going through the process of elimination of my problems, how do I know if the thermostat or the water pump is bad once I take them off? You guys are great! Really appreciate the help!

Thanks for all the replys so far!! I checked the radiator level after the overheating and I only have to add in very little water, and it might be because the coolant is flowing out of the overflow bucket when it over heats. It didn't seem like the thermostat to me, because I can drive the car for a 2-3 miles and the needle for the temperature gage would stay at the correct spot for awhile before the temperature shoots up to over heating. If it was the thermostat not opening, I shouldn't get the leveling off of the temperature at all, correct? I checked for leaks and looked in the coolant and oil stick, so I don't think(hope) its the HG, but I will drain the oil to be sure. Thanks again for all the help!

My trusty 98 OBW 2.5 started overheating on my way back to salt lake from jackson hole last night. The car was fully loaded with gear and 5 people going 80 mph. It just all of the sudden overheats 3 hour into the trip. I have replaced within the last 1.5 years: Water pump (aftermarket), thermostat (aftermarket), and HG The coolant is clear of oil, and the dip stick does not look milky, so I don't think its the HG. The cooling fans are also operating normally After the car overheats, I can let it cool down so I can top off the radiator, then drive the car with the temperature being at the normal spot for about 2-3 miles going 45mph, and then it will all of the sudden shoot up and overheat. Any thoughts? I am suspecting its the water pump or the thermostat, but how do I tell one from the other? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

explain piston slap? i have had all the valves machined 5000 miles ago when i got the car.

98 outback 2.5 mt, car has 165000miles, valve job, head gasket replaced when the car starts out cold especially in the cold salt lake city winter, there is a fairly loud tapping sound. when the car warms up, the sound disappears in the cabin, but still audible from outside the car. When starting in fairly warm weather 60F ish, the tapping sound is faint but still there and kind of goes away after the car warms up. I've been told that this could be the timing belt tensioner for whatever reason, could it be anything else? when i did a valve job on the engine ealier this year, i replace the belt but not the tensioner. Any thoughts? Thanks alot!!

Thanks alot, so that is the only way to add/check my tranny fluid? Doesn't seem right, I was expecting a longer tube, kind of like the dipstick for the motor oil.

this sounds kind of dumb, but does the front differential and the transmition for a 98 2.5 obw mt share the same fluids? I found A dipstick on the passenger side, it says DIFF on it, and its tucked way in under a whole bunch of wiring, does the tranny not have its own dipstick thats easier to get to? thanks a whole lot, im trying to make sure my fluids are ok before i go on my trip this weekend.

i am installing a new water pump on my 98 2.5, my question is, I am reusing the plastic curve pipe thingy under the water pump, and when I tighten it on my new water pump, there is a gap (around 1/8") in the center of it, away from the two bolts. where as the contact area directly under the 2 bolts has a good seal. it seems the plastic pipe thingy is warped in the center, is this normal? I have checked the rubber seal for the thermostat and its not being caught in the center. Thanks!

grossgary: thanks alot for the replies! I couldn't believe how rusted some of those bolts were, being rest of the car body seemed really good as far as rusting goes. I am thinking about just taking it to the machinest and see if they can work some magic, or else im screwed. btw, i wasn't using an impact gun, thought about it at first, I wanted to see if the repeated beating would loosen the rust, but i never got around to using it.

in the process of take the engine out of my 98 obw, the bolts on the exhaust manifold is so rusted on there i broke two studs in the heads. has this happened to anyone? and what did you do to get out the broken studs in the heads? Thanks

wow, that helps alot, thank you!

Hi, I need to pull the heads for my 98 obw to do a valve job, do you guys recommend pulling the entire engine out or leave the engine in? I am also doing timing belt/water pump, too, I guess if i pull the engine then the clutch can be done as well. any recommendation greatly appreciated! I tried to find a write up on this and had no luck, any suggestions? Thanks alot!

GROSSGARY: Thanks alot for the replies! I am aware of the HG issues with the phase I 2.5 motors, but I didn't realize it was that big of an issue even for a lower mileage motor? By doing a little research, its looking more and more like I will be rebuilding this one. Is there any other problematic areas on this motor I should check out while I have the motor out? And what would you guys recommend replacing on it? Its been alot of help!! Thanks!!

Hi thanks for the replies. The engine I have right now has 160k...with all new wiring,plugs, distributor but the #4 cylinder is still misfiring. I was thinking about pulling the motor out and do the valve job, timing belt, HG all at the same time, but after thinking about the cost for all that and compare it to a used lower mileage engine its not that big of a difference. In my experience, getting a lower mileage engine is more reliable than rebuilding a higher mileage one. What do you guys think? Thanks again!

I might be in a market for a newer engine for my 98 obw w/MT, haven't decided between that and rebuilding mine, which need a valve job, new seals, timing belt, etc... I have a few questions, and if any soobie gurus can help out that would be great! 1. Is every OBW in 98 a phase I engine? 2. Mine obw is MT, do I have to find a MT specific engine? or can the AT engine work as well? 3. I've been seeing a lot of Japanese imported phase I engines with lower miles, would those work as far as emissions goes, and just general compatiblility with an US car? Thanks a lot in advance!! Ben