jimbo747

O.K. I'll try harder to find the leak(s) on this beast. By the way, it's a front wheel drive, not a four-wheel. No rear shaft or differential to worry about.

The gearbox in my '93 Loyale leaks like a sieve. Last time I replaced the axles (about a year ago) I did replace the drive seals, which slowed the leaks down a little, but it still leaks really bad. My question to my fellow gearheads is, "How big of a pain in the arse will it be to take the gearbox out, replace all the seals and gaskets, and re-install?" I would describe my technical skills as above-average home mechanic -- I've pulled and resealed the engine twice since I've owned the car, but have never touched the gearbox.

Thanks all. The link to the lamda website was especially helpful. I'm really baffled by teh two manifold gasket failures -- sense they occured on the same cylinder head both times. I chanded the bolts and triple check the torque settings. We'll see what happens. I'll also run the length of the single wire to make sure that it's not frayed somewhere along the length. But like I said, the really weird thing is that fact that it only comes onl after driving 70 MPH exactly 5 miles. Afer I stop for the day, then restart, the light goes off within one mile, and stays off until I get back on the highway and drive 70 MPH exaclty 5 miles. If I drive surface streets or stay below 70, the light stays off..

Before you even consider doing this, I recommend reading this thread! http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=18595&pagenumber=1 I first read this almost 8 years ago, and laughed for days!

Background: 1993 Loyale EA82 SPFI. About three months ago, after an "at home" engine reseal, I had a leaking manifold gasket. During the repair I got some coolant into the cylinders, which I cleared by removing the spark plugs and cranking the engine. Replaced the plugs, started the engine (started and ran fine, just blew some white smoke for about three minutes until the residual coolant cleared. Then 1 week later, I get a code 32. Replaced the sensor and life was good until three weeks ago. Yep, another manifold gasket leak. Replaced them again, (used copper rtv this time). Started and ran great. 1 week later, I'm getting code 32 again. The funny thing is, I only get it when driving to work on the highway for about 5 miles. At the end of the day, I start the car, the code clears in abotu a mile, and stays off until I'm on the highway again for 5 miles. I saw in another thread someone mention the same phenomina. So, could a dousing in coolant cause the O2 sensor to fail? If not, any suggestions as to what to look for? I'm willing and ready to replace the sensor again, but would like to know why they keep failing.

1993 Loyale 1.8 SPFI / MT I recently replaced all the gaskets and seals in the engine, but am having a drivability problem. The car starts easily and idles smooth, but when I try to drive it, it "bucks-like a bronco" between 1200 - 2000 RPM. If I "lead-foot" it -- wind it out to about 2500 and slowly ease the clutch, it's ok. I have replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and coil. I have tried adjusting the timing between 20 degrees BTDC and 24 degrees BTDC. Additional clue -- I am getting an intermittant check engine light, with an ECU Code 51 -- neutral switch. Could this really be the cause? If so, where is this neutral switch located and where can I find a replacement? All I've seen from my local parts stores are for the automatic transaxels. Thanks!

Thanks for the suggestion. Actually, I installed the timing belts using the instructions found right here on USMB. There is a really good detailed set with nice, clear color pictures. I'll try cleaning the TPS connector per your suggestion. Thanks again.

Gloyale: Sorry if I mislead you there. When I installed the timing belts, I did use the three timing belt marks, not the TDC marks. Carmanos: What's your hunch? Thanks guys! (or gals!)

OK Experts – I’ve got a problem that has me baffled. This is going to be a long explanation, and I’m sorry for that, but I’d rather give too much explanation and possibly a red herring than too little info. I recently undertook the task of replacing all the gaskets and seals in my EA82 (1993 Loyale, 5-speed manual). When it came time to replace the rear main seal I removed the flywheel, and much to my horror, discovered that there are no assembly reference marks to reinstall it. Unfortunately, the USMB was down during that time (due to the hackers), and I couldn’t find any other source of reliable information. So I used my intuition, turned the crank until the #1 (front right) cylinder was at TDC, and installed the flywheel with the zero degree mark lined up with the timing reference mark. I then proceeded with the rest of the engine reseal, installing the timing belt and the distributor per the instructions in my Haynes, Chilton and USMB repair guides. Now the problem. It starts and runs, but when I go to time it, I don’t see the timing marks. What I do see is the three timing-belt marks. I have triple checked to verify that my timing light is attached to the #1 spark plug wire. This doesn’t make any sense to me. Since the timing belts and distributor were installed with reference to the flywheel marks, the engine shouldn’t even be running if I installed the flywheel incorrectly. Anybody have any thought – or better yet, the solution?

I've got a '93 Loyale, but this would apply to almost any car. Like all good consious mechanics, (o.k. shadetree mechanic), I disconnect the battery before doing anything that might result in a nasty shock and/or fried electronics if I don't. The problem is I've got one of those fancy-schmancy radios that you can program with the time, preset stations, station call letters, bass / treble / balance for each preset, etc. The problem is that when I disconnect the battery, I lose all the settings. It can take up to 30 minutes to reprogram all this stuff in. Does anyone know of a way to hook a small battery into just the radio circuit so that the radio memory doesn't get wiped out?

I've been using Fram filters for years, but after reading some of these (and other) horror stories, I've decided to switch. I've heard a lot of good things about the NAPA Gold filter. Does anyone have any thoughts about the NAPA Silver? (apparently both mfg by WIX) Cheers!

Thanks for all the advice, guys. You are the greatest. The system failed on me again yesterday, and I determined that it was the fuel pump. However, while diagnosing that problem, I did a bone-head thing -- I inadvertently sent 12 volts "backwards" through the system and fried the fuel pump control unit. "The what?", you ask. After I posted my original thread on this board, I was looking at some of the "similar" threads, and discovered that (lucky me) 1990 - 1994 Loyales with automatic seat belts have a special fuel pump control unit. It doesn't show up on most wiring diagrams. There's a TSB out on it. Anyway, after I confirmed that my old pump was dead and installed my new pump, I had my car towed to my mechanic, and showed him the TSB. He was greatful, since none of the mechanics in his shop had ever seen it. I didn't tell him that I stupidly sent voltage backward through the system -- I wanted them to diagnose the problem, not immediately focus on that. After a few minutes of probing around, he came back with the news that the pump control unit was fried. "Some kind of voltage surge may have done it -- are you sure you installed the new pump correctly?" At that point, I confessed to my stupidity. Anyway: New fuel pump -- $196.00 New fuel pump control unit -- $319.00 Labor -- $75.00 Learning to be more F*cking careful when trying to bypass electrical systems -- PRICELESS! Cheers! Jimbo!

I know this is going to seem rather lengthy, but I want to give you all the available information. 1993 Loyale, 1.8 SPFI, AC, 5-speed. I am having an intermittent starting problem. Occasionally, when I go to start the engine, it will fire, run for about 1/2 second, then stop. Once that happens, I can crank it forever and it will not start. However, sometimes if I wait an hour or two and try it again, it fires right up and runs like it never had any problem. While trying to diagnose this last week (when it happened to me miles from home), I pulled the fuel lines off of the fuel filter, and cranked it. No fuel squirted out. I rapped on the fuel pump, jiggled some wires, still nothing. Reconnected the fuel lines, waited 30 minutes, tried it again, and the SOB fired right up. Took it to my mechanic, who played with it for two days, started and stopped it 50+ times, without a single problem. So, I'm thinking I either have an intermittantly failing fuel pump, or something is preventing power to get to the fuel pump. From what I understand, (and please correct me if I'm wrong), the fuel pump relay is triggered by the ECU during three events: 1) When the ignition is first turned on 2-3 seconds to prime the system, 2) During cranking, and 3) While the engine is running. I've looked at the wiring diagram, and see that the relay gets its signal from the ECU. I have heard that bad signals from various sensors can cause the ECU to shut down the fuel pump. I have heard coolant temp sensor, oil pressure sensor, TPS, MAF, etc. My big question to the Subaru gurus out there, is which, if any, of these sensors will cause the ECU to not send a signal to the relay? Thanks for your help, guys. Sorry this message was so long.

I know that this may seem like a strange topic to bring up in the middle of winter, but I've got a clogged A/C drain on my '93 Loyale. I can hear what sounds like a gallon of water sloshing around behind my dash. I've tried blowing compressed air into the line (80-100 PSI), and the line seems clear, but the water won't drain (got maybe 1 or 2 ounces out, then the trickle stopped.) I've been told not to use a wire or anything, because I could puncture and/or damage the condensor. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Refreshing to hear that I'm not the only one. Installed a yellow superstock coil in my wife's 87 GL wagon about 2 years ago. Last summer she started having some problems with drivability -- stalling on acceleration, etc. I tried everything I could think of -- new plugs, wires, cap, rotor (didn't need a coil -- that one's new:rolleyes: ). Cleaned the MAS. Cleaned the TPS. Seemed to run a little better, but still some hesitation and stalling. Finally died around midnight one night last month, in less than the best of neighborhoods... :banghead: Had it towed to my mechanic's shop. Diagnosis: Failed coil. Replaced it with a factory unit, has run great ever since. (That is until one of the timing belts broke last Saturday night, but that's another story)

Does the '87 GL SPFI 2WD have a fuel filter by the pump, too? My wife is having similar problems.

Hi there! I'm getting myself psyched up to to a preventative replacement on the timing belts on my wife's '87 GL wagon. I've read and printed the USRM write-up by Milesfox, and have the Haynes manual. Both the Haynes and Chilton manuals call for using a special tool to keep the crankshaft from rotating while you tighten the bolts. Is there anyway around this, or can a similar tool be rented from NAPA / Checker / Autozone? I figure on putting in the oil pump kit while I'm in there. Anything else I should consider? Thanks!

Thanks!

Hey there! Anybody know what size screw is used to hold the rotor in the distributer? It's for my '87 GL wagon with the 1.8 SPFI EA82. Thanks!

I can hit over 100 in Oregon? Dang! Down here in Phoenix it's only 108 today.

I've got one in my Loyale, too. Thanks! I've been wondering what that thing was for years....

The gas cap / trunk release cable in my '93 Loyale broke. Has anyone ever replaced one? It looks like it will be a major PITA (Pain in the Arse) to do. Am I better off just tying a string around the gas cap release and accept the fact that every time I fill up, I'm going to have to open the trunk and pull the string? In a semi-related note, I am getting a perverse pleasure in watching SUV and Hummer owners grumbling at the gas pumps.

I had same problem. As other posters have stated, there is a pressure switch in the system. If you're refridgerant is too low (or even empty) relay will not send the current required to engage the compressor clutch. I started to add some R-134, and found my cracked hose. One new hose, an evac, and a couple of pounds of refridgerant sent me on my way.

Dominoes, Pizza Hut, Papa Johns, and various smaller chains and independants abound here. Metrocenter (a large mall) is near Glendale as well (Sears, Dillards, JC Penney). The new Glendale Arena (AZ Coyotes) just opened. Good luck. As a previous poster indicated, the Phoenix metro area is laid out in a grid. Streets and Avenues run north / south. Central Ave is (obviously) the center. Streets are on the east, avenues are on the west, and for the most part are numbered (1st Street, 3rd Ave, etc.). 8 blocks = 1 mile. Roads and Drives run east / west. These are named. I'm in Chandler, the opposite corner of the metro area from Glendale, but I go to school in Deer Valley (not too far from Glendale). Let me know if you need any more info.

I'm with partsman EA82 purge control solenoids.