jimbo747

Robm: Hi! I have a '93 Loyale, 1.8L SPFI and am having the exact same cold-starting problem. If it's cold enough outside for frost to form on my car, it will not start. Once the temp warms up enough for the frost to melt, it starts without a problem. The big problem for me is I live in Phoenix. The overnight temp only drops to the 30's maybe once every week or so in the winter, so leaving my car at the shop overnight is a crap-shoot. Hopefully someone from the great-white north has experienced this problem and has a solution for us! BTW, welcome to the board!

re: renman I think you got the wrong jimbo. never had a turbowagon.

I'm in Chandler (southeast of Phoenix). Both my 'roo ('93 Loyale) and my wife's 'roo ('87 GL Wagon) are strickly on-road [Yes, I know -- boorrrrringgg.] Always interested in meeting area 'roo owners for tips and advice.

One bit of advice that would have been helpful is the fact that I needed to drop the ECU. After all this work, turns out the relay was fine. Still have know idea what the problem is (was, since the Loyale is starting and running fine, now).

Thanks

Skip posted earlier that I can find them "above and to the drivers side of the steering col. You must remove the trim panel to see them. " O.K. I need some help here. Are we talking inside the engine compartment, or inside the car? Which trim panel do I need to remove? Help, Please!

During my diagnostics, I detached the fuel line at the filter, and turned the ignition switch on. I cranked (and cranked and cranked) but no fuel ever came out of the line. I also checked the voltage at the pump, but I was unaware of the "2-second" rule. Still sounds like a relay. I'll check these relay. If I undersatnd you correctly, I'm going to need to pull the panel from underneath the steering column same on the covers the ECU? Thanks again! This board is the best!

and discovered that I have no fuel pressure. It appears the fuel pump is not turning on. I unplugged it and applied current directly to it, and it started working. So now I'm wondering if I could have a bad fuel pump relay. Problem is, I don't know what the relay looks like or where it is located. Help, please!

1987 Loyale, 1.8L SPFI. 5 Spd. First of all, I live in the Phoenix area, so this doesn't happen very often, but for the third time this year I couldn't start my car this morning. Seems that whenever it is cold enough for frost to form on my car, it won't start. It will crank, and usually fire and run for about 1 second, then quit. After that, it will just crank and crank. I have spark, but no signs of flooding (i.e. wet plugs and/or gas smell from the tailpipe. I'm thinking maybe water in the fuel system is freezing. Last time this happened I installed a new fuel filter. Today I bought some STP fuel system water eliminator and anti-freeze, which I will put in when I get home. I was wondering if any of you in the colder areas of the country had any other suggestions to help me diagnose this? Thanks

I may have goofed big time. :boohoo: I was replacing the valve cover gaskets on my EA82 and accidentally stripped the threads in one of the bolt holes (in the cylinder head). Is there any way to fix this? Any way to drill the hole out and put in some kind of insert? Help please! :-\

My wife's '87 GL Wagon, EA82, SPFI, AT. We're hearing a loud clicking or clunking sound from front left when driving straight forward. Sound is not present during turns. Sound does not begin until 25-30 MPH. I'm thinking CV joint and/or wheel bearings, but why only when straight? Anybody have any thoughts or ideas? Thanks!

I recently bought one from Liberty Subaru http://www.newsubaru.com for about $250.00 -- which sure beats the $450.00 my local (Phoenix) dealer wanted. Good luck!

The NPR Car-Talk guys get questions about this thing all the time. They're of the opinion that it's junk.

I highly recommend the parts department at Liberty Subaru in New Jersey. (http://www.newsubaru.com) I live in Arizona and used to buy parts from the local dealers (Pitre and/or Camelback) until I found out about this place. Let me give you an example of some recent purchases: AC compressor for '93 Loyale Pitre: $695 Liberty: $395 IAC Control for '87 GL Pitre: $392 Liberty: $229 Purge Solenoid (for both the '93 and the '87 [why do I have to replace these things every 3-4 years?]) Pitre: $187 Liberty $95 I don't work there, nor do I know anybody (personally) who works there. Russ or Jason in the parts department are really friendly, and have always been able to help me out.

Thanks for your help, Skip. Called the wife back and told her to pop the hood and check for corrosion. Sure enough, the positive post and clamp was gunked up (surprising, since I cleaned it about 3 months ago). Anyway, I talked her through the process of removing the cables and cleaning the posts and clamps. That apparently did the trick.

Need some quick help. Wife's '87 GL Wagon, 1.8 SPFI, AT. She just called me at work. Had trouble starting it this afternoon. She said that it just quit, then wouldn't restart. She had to turn the key 2-3 times before it would crank (but the tach needle would jump when she was turning the key). No "click - click - click" sound. After a few turns of the key, it did crank, then start. Said she stopped a few minutes later, and when she went to restart it, the same thing happened again, except she had to turn the key 6 times to get it to crank. My gut instinct is failing starter. Any other thoughts? Thanks!

This should be written up and placed in on the Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual page...:wave:

Get a balljoint seperator from your local auto parts chain (Autozone, Checker, Discount Auto, etc all have "free loaner tools"), and whack it with a hammer.