nutt7

My accell recently died too. I was going up hill when it took the last dive...had to coast backward against traffic to roll into a parking lot...it was mounted vertically. I am curious about this GP coil too. someone here is running an MSD with good results too I will search for the p/n

Cougar, I think you gave me the info for the sender not the sensor. I tested the sensor and from the crappy description my haynes gives me, it reads right on. I cleaned the terminals of the sensor and the plug with electric contact cleaner and coated them with dielectric grease. It runs much better now, hot or cold, with intermittent flaking out, (the clip for the sensor is broken, need to replace) ...thanks guys!

that is not the ignition module...that is the ignition amplifier and it grounds through the bracket. the module for my 86 is in the dizzy, however, the ignition system changed a little in 87 so I am not sure how those work. do a search for ignition module or ignition amplifier and you will find a lot of good reading eric

Thanks Corky, you have successfully made me cry. I now realize my place in this world as a mere simpleton...I was thinking along the lines of maybe the sensor was causing a lean mixture as calebz said...the car is not overheating, it runs warmer than normal on occasion, about 15deg above the usual, and this is accompanied by a noticably more sluggish engine. My question is now restated: Could a false signal from a bad thermosensor cause a lean mixture? If so, could it be lean enough to cause the engine to run noticably warmer? This is my only subaru and I have had it for 5 months so please bear with me as I try to understand it better. calebz, the connectors do look a bit nasty, what can I use to clean them? Also, what size socket do I need to remove it so I can test/clean it? I was having a hard time fiiting one on there. bythesea, thanks for your input...I will test the resistances once I remove the sensor thanks, eric

ea82t- I have a thermosensor trouble code on the ecu...sometimes, it seems like my car runs hotter and more sluggish on some days, with similar weather conditions and driving conditions. Sometimes startup idle is sluggish too. Sound like a thermosensor could cause this? What size socket do I need to get it out? Its tough to fit something over it due to the plastic connector that seems wider than the bolt head. thanks

WJM can get those sandwich things...Im not sure if it will fit a justy...and yes it does have some sort of t-stat in it although I am not sure of its ratings...I think he said 190ish. hope this helps eric

haha! thats what I was thinking! good movie

i took my coverless wagon through mud and rocks and I thought all was ok, then one day while changing the oil I noticed the driver t belt had a tear about 1/3 of the width of the belt. a rock must have got caught in there. but its been 3 months and it is still holding...oh yes, i too hate t belt covers

A safe way to do this would be the strap wrench way stated earlier...I did mine the easy, yet potentially dangerous way: pull the coil wire, then put the appropriate socket on a long breaker bar and place the breaker bar on the ground if it reaches or something VERY solid in the engine bay. Crank the engine like to start it, it will turn the pulley clockwise while the breaker bar holds the bolt in place. Takes no time at all, but like I said, its potentially dangerous!

I do have a 2 core radiator...6 of my 8 cars Ive owned have not had AC...its not too bad, as long as you park in the shade (yesterday my car was 160 deg inside parked in the sun!) and drive with no shirt on :-p plus it makes being outside more tolerable because you get used to it! Then again I have lived my whole life in the AZ sun, including summer football and such, so maybe I am calloused to the heat...its the cold that gets me! To me AC is a luxury, thats why its debatable for me

Hi all, Havent posted in a while, hope everyone is doing well...anyway heres my deal. My AC is retrofitted to r134a and the system was dry and clean when I did it and I also replaced the drier. The AC blows cold and feels great but the car dies after it warms up. If i turn the AC on when Im cruising, the coolant temp climbs and climbs and doesnt stop until I turn the AC off. it also feels like I am pulling a trailor when the AC is on. Im running 4-5psi of boost just to maintain 70 mph on a flat road with the AC on. I thought I needed more pag oil, so I added 4oz more with no difference. low pressure side is ok...what should high pres. side read? Any ideas? could the coolant SENSOR have anything to do with this? My next question is this: Should I just ditch the AC?...its one less 8lb pulley and makes room for the oil cooler and better radiator efficiency. I will most likely do this if my fix requires more than $30...whats your opinion?

I owned my chromy 8140 for 2 weeks now...dead the ig. module was out, too. Perhaps one killed the other. either way, I threw my dying stock coil back in and she fired right up...swapped them one more time in case it was a fluke, it wasnt. I mounted it vertically and even put a peice of rubber mat between the coil and the bracket to dampen vibration. Whats the comparable MSD p/n? or maybe I will play the safe road and go with stock...

I need one of these like yesterday, I am leaving home for a week and it would be a great help if one was waiting for me when I got back! tired of bummin rides and walking 7miles home from work (its still 90's at 9:00pm) check here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17430 for pics and part numbers of what I need and call me so we can arrange $$$ and shipping...I leave town Friday night at 8pm AZ time and will not have my phone or net access. (taking a bunch of crazy HS kids to a YoungLife camp!) Please help! thanks, eric 480 241 0180

the voltahe regulator should be built in the alternator...if you have a manual, it usually says how to check it.

the date on the placard said 86 so I guess it probably is an 87...but it definately was a spider intake...

Do you have a gauge? It should read between 25-45 when its up to spec...compressors often turn off if there is not enough pressure, or the compressor simply isnt turning fast enough... there are a couple things to check: -if your compressor was off, then as you charged half a can of r134 it turned on, then turned off after a minute, its probably because the initial pressure of the r134 entering was high enough to allow the compressor to run, but as it cycled through the compressor and all the lines the pressure got too low. Your system should take at least 2 12 oz cans of r134, maybe more...use the r134 with pag and sealer and all that already in it...it is crucial to get a gauge! dont want to over or undercharge! -If that doesnt work, run a wire from your battery to the compressor and see if it stays on. if it doesnt, the clutch may be bad, if it does stay on, check the AC system switches, pressure, wiring etc hope this helps, eric

Faulty voltage regulator?

Shawn, I would think the intake would require sensors specific for my computer, I just dont know if the spidey has any extra or less sensors...If the metal looks ok, I may just snag it anyway...I think they will charge me $20 or so

there is one at the jy here and it had some fire damage under the hood...It doesnt look too bad, except most things plastic or rubber are melted. Do you think the spider intake is ok, so long as I clean it up real well? Also, do these have lsd in the rear diff? easy way to tell? will the sway bar in the rear work on my 86 wagon? It also has a cooler of some sort in front. It is an auto, does that mean its a tranny cooler (driver side)? everything is under the hood still. anything else worth taking? eric

I dont know if I like you...you seem to come up on lots of cool stuff for free or cheap...Im jealous nice car by the way. let me know if you need help moving when you get here

I have the 30inhg to 20psi autometer boost gauge...its easier to read low pressures than the 30psi one (i will also never boost past 20 psi), all boost gauges from autometer are mechanical. there is a real easy place to tap for boost by driver strut tower...hit me up for pics water temp...electric...screws in with supplied adapter, i dont trust factory water temp gauges oil pressure...always a good one! egt...expensive, but useful

86 turbo wagon--My ignition module went bad and I cant find one new or used in town...anyone have one? or a whole dizzy with one in it? I posted it in the marketplace http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17430 please help...this is my daily driver! thanks, eric

soobme, i am about 90% sure its the ig module...Ive tested and probed and it points to this... Ive searched jy's here today and the only compatible module I found was under a heap of melted plastic from a car fire...anyone have one? or a whole dizzy for that matter? I am desperate.. no parts places has them either...I will post what I need in the marketplace

got towed by my buddies jeep :-\ (no one saw us) and did a spark test right off the coil--no spark...tested 12v at the + terminal of the coil, and 12v at the coil output (big wire to cap)...I read somewhere that 12v at the coil output meant dead ig. module...we will know tomorrow. one more question...any ea82 dizzy before 87 will work right? carbed, spfi, mpfi, turbo? as long as it does not have the optical pickup thing like the 87+ the jy here is pretty limited on subes, but I will make sure the wire harness is the same. thank you again eric

pulled o2 sensor, no start, pulled maf plug, no start...I smell fuel...im thinkink ig module...you?