nutt7

oh, I think I see. Did you think I put 16oz of oil in there? No way! that was 16oz pag oil/r134a I think there is like 2-4 oz of oil in those cans. I used one 12oz can with 8-10oz freon and 2-4oz oil and one can with 4oz of just pag oil and stop leak

is that 5.1oz just for the compressor? The guy at the store said the oil in the charge cans should be proportional to whats needed in my system. there should be about 6-8oz total in there now...a couple other guys on the board said they just charged their empty (not evacuated) r12 systems and they worked fine...I guess they didnt open the system though. I might just have to evacuate this and re-do it. How much oil should there be in the whole thing? I could not find the info...were you telling me that I had too much, or not enough?

that thing has been in this forum before! I believe only one engine runs, the other doesnt have a battery. he will never sell it for what he wants...he wants a $500 deposit after the auction. how much is he expecting? It would be great if you could turn the steering wheels all the way to the right and floor it...you could drive in circles! I remember that tiburon too, subafreak. Tight burnout! one in drive, one in reverse!

everything is hooked up right...I put in the r134a with the pag oil in it (about 16oz), then conditioner (4oz), then just refridgerant until it was up to spec. I dont know how much oil was needed for the compressor or the dryer which I replaced. I did not evacuate the system, I was told I would not have to. What are the benefits of this? Do you know where I can check to see if my idle compensator works?

my compressor shot out oil and freon when I tried to charge it so I tore it down to replace some seals...I didnt know it was rotary-powered! thought someone might want to see what it looks like. If you have any questions, let me know... FYI, the ac now blows cold, but the car likes to stall at a stop, and the car loses lots of go. the car idles high, like at 1200rpm, and when the ac is on, it drops to like 500-600 rpm if it doesnt die. I disconnected the comp. wire and turned the ac on and the rpms jump for a fraction of a second and then drops back down. belt tension is ok, ig timing is a few deg retarded, any ideas? more pag oil? Fix idle and timing? Could this be from my cams?

Dennis, My wagon chills at 190deg with a 190deg t stat around town and its 100+ deg outside. 65-75mph it sits a hair inside of 210 deg, no ac. dual elec fans run manually when I see my t stat open

I would say no bra. i never understood their purpose...they cover the front to prevent rock chips and what not...but you never see the good paint, because there is an ugly bra covering it all the time. so you are protecting paint you will never look at. its like taking a super model to the beach and making her wear a trench coat so she or he (pc ) might not get sun burned. I would rather have a uniform look to the car with a few chips up front than a huge leathery thing distorting the fine lines of my subaru besides if dust gets under there, it will scratch it up under there anyway, or the sun will fade the rest of the car and then if you remove the bra, it wont match. wow, thats a lot to say about a car bra...I am a hoser...excuse me while I go justify my existence.:-\

I live near mesa...what jy is it? I would love to check it out. thanks, eric

ooohhh...i see how it is...:-\ I will lower my head and kick rocks as I walk away... ...crying.

what scoop is that? How did you mount it? How much $?

here is a link that oddcomp showed me with that dash kit: http://www.spysupply007.com/Car_Stereo/Install_kits/subaru/ If you need a pic type in 'camo dash kit' in our search and check out my post, I put camo duct tape over the plastic, but you will get the idea what it looks like

maybe call up a VW specialist shop and see how they bore their boxers. (engines that is )

86 turbo wagon- I pulled my codes due to the ECS light which sometimes makes a brief appearance on startup, and I got a code 12. Haynes says its the starter switch staying closed, I think. What exactly is a starter switch (what does it do)? where is it and how can I check it? I am pretty sure it is not referring to the ignition switch...that doesnt make sense, and if that stayed closed, my car would not start, right? could it be that neutral switch or whatever that thing is? it says I have one on my 5spd...I dont know its purpose. thanks, eric

lets see some pics outside the garage!

isnt a .020 shave too much? I think .010 is the limit otherwise the intake mani will have trouble fitting...hope this isnt the case...

that looks tight! do the wheels rub at all? its cool what lowering a car can do for its appearance

when you buy o-rings, make sure you get ones that are ok for AC systems! napa has a good selection of these... I bought a charge hose with a gauge built in line with it for my retro fit...it makes it lots easier. it says what pressure it should be at with r134a. remove the dryer and take it into the store...there are a few different ones. most are now compatible with r12 and r134a. the only place that carried my dryer was an AC specialist shop called AAPAK...no other parts stores had it so you may want to call in advance... ive talked enough... let me know if you have any questions eric

subynut, did your friend say more coolant or water? more water will let it cool better...its good to see another arizonan too...do you know of any jy's in the entire state with suby's? sorry to hijack eric

i heard those thermoswitches in the rad go bad often...skip said the connections get dirty or corroded sometimes too...some people, me included, have a manual switch wired up so we can run the fans whenever we want. if you want to test the fan, disconnect the connector and run wires directly from the battery to the fan. hope this helps...Tom gave real good possibilities too.

a new evaporator/drier is a must does one compressor work better than the other? I have a square one that may be bad. should I swap it if I have to get a new one?

northguy, how old were your girlfriends? :grin: give them time! jk scooby, I would do a larger exh, bottom end may be sacrificed a tad, but top end should benefit pretty well. A good intake is a must too...use mandrel bends wherever you can

cool, thanks

if the engine is still apart rebuild the lash adjusters yourself. Its pretty easy...mine were nasty and noisy and now they are nice and clean and quiet here is the link that tells you how to do this: homepage.powerup.com.au/~...er_fix.htm

I also recommend a new rad, and a 180 or 190 deg t stat while youre at it. I got a 2 core for $150ish from radiators.com. Its over 100 deg out and I run @ 190 deg in town and never over 210 on the freeway (70-75mph) I am running just water right now, and no AC, yet

Morgan, the side with the output wire is up... GD, shouldnt the accel be putting out a stronger spark than the stock ones thus creating a better, cleaner ignition of fuel/air? you said it shouldnt make a difference from stock. I dont understand this... has anyone noticed a decent gain in power or fuel economy, compared to as good working stock coil?