nutt7

radiators.com had a dual-core turbo rad. for mine for ~$150 shipped. Yours is probably a single core. (mine was, and it is turbo) the one they sent was for AT or 5spd. you just plug the tubes for the tranny cooler to prevent stuff from getting in there.(coolant doesnt flow through these tubes) It is twice as thick as the stock one and it was a direct replacement for me...but like previously stated, do a check and make sure you know the problem before you spend the $$$

my buddy had a ford tempo gl....we determined it stood for gay lesbian...which is, in accordance with the law of double negatives,...a straight woman:D

correct me if I am wrong but for my (86 turbo wagon 4wd) the ignition timing should be 25' btdc I now have delta cams that some of you run and I was wondering if I should alter the timing for better results...the cams however, work awesome the way they are now, I was just wondering if there was room for more power from changing the timing:) thanks eric

after a 17 hour session, yes 17 hours. noon-7am, work 8-4, I hope I dont even have to see a wrench or smell oil for a while.... contact me in a month or so...:-p

I feel good. after a blown HG and waiting a week for parts, my wagon is back on the road. It felt good to do it myself, well, with the help of the board for tips;) . I re-sealed it all, new t belts (no covers) got a new oil pump, rebuilt the lash adjusters, installed an electric fan w/ a manual switch in parallel with the thermoswitch, and got some delta cams. I also modified the intake. It took patience, time, swearing, one all nighter followed by an 8-4 at work, lots of parts cleaner and even a little blood! but its done now. i feel my wagon 'broke me in' as a subaru owner...so to speak... She started right up, no ticking! :D . the car pulls much harder with these cams. altogether it feels like 10-13 hp maybe. its only been a day, but everything seems to be running smooth, (except the small hole I punched in the rad:eek: ,its fixable and leaks slow. ). I plan on setting up a page about this job soon. let me know if you have any questions...thanks for the support. eric

you can gently pry the trip computer display w/ a screwdriver and the control box by the radio comes out w/ 3 screws, i think. Its easiest to remove the whole radio so you can access the 2 plugs from the control box/ display. Another way to run wires to the engine compartment is by feeding them through the grommet thing between the shock tower and the firewall. (either side) you will need to poke a hole in it and maybe seal it if you want. I fit a 4ga. for my amp through it.

if its the same plastic I am thinking of, it is called ABS. any custom stereo shop should have some. they come in like 8" squares.

I dont know about the scoops, but the sluggish acceleration can be a few things...fuel filter, fuel pump, bad fuel, spark plugs/wires, incorrect timing, dizzy cap/rotor, lost compression... thats all I can think of for now. hope it helps... eric

thanks milesfox. I feel a little more confident now about this...I think I am going to rig up a 'debris shield' under the belts to make it a little safer, like an extended splash guard. I will make it out of my old civic hood:-p

hey Al, sell those to torxxx...I am going to risk it and run no covers for now...I really need my car together by tuesday. I appreciate the offer though:) eric

If you can, wire a manual switch with a relay. I hear that these thermal switches on the rad fail often so you may not want to depend on it. You may be ok with just that one fan, but I would get another one asap...I recently got one from ebay for $40 shipped. type in '12 fan' and you will find some. my seller was fatrodder. oh yeah, diagrams for a manual switch are in the board somewhere, just do a search... hope I helped, eric

Al, I will buy those from you and if they dont fit I will sell them to torxxx for the same price...let me know how you want to do this...thanks eric

I got a complete gasket kit from 1stsubaruparts.com for $170. Im right in the middle of the HG replacement now...it takes time but is very possible and definately doesnt cost $8-900, but if the cash isnt a big issue and a good mechanic is going to put it in for that price, do that...you can always part out the old engine for a little return-on-investment, too

I am replacing my....well...lots of stuff on my ea82t and upon removal of the t belts etc. my t-belt cover bolts spun freely in the dumb plastic so after hours of negotiating I was forced to break them to get to the belts. the passenger cover against the block was even melted and deformed:mad: I could probably rig them to work but it would be too shady...I know some run without them and I understand there could be costly risks of stray rocks, mud, etc. but has running with no covers damaged anyones car out there? Should they stay or should they go now? how much would I expect to pay for jy units? they are scarce here anyway...from what I seem to read, these are a PItA anyway. So the question is: keep them or toss them? All advice and opinions welcome! thanks eric

I bought the oem kit for $170 from 1stsubaruparts. there are a few other things Im replacing too. So far I got it torn down waiting for the parts to come in...lost 1 int. mani. stud due to rust. but at least there is enough sticking out to grip it with the vise grips once the penetrating lube has time to do its magic. everything else went relatively smooth. emphasis on relatively. I will give a full rundown upon completion of this mission... e

on my car, to get out the air bubbles, i squeezed the rad hoses for a minute with the cap off and the rad full and the coolant level dropped, telling me I at least got some of the bubbles... eric

thanks guys. I will keep you posted on progress.

by the looks of that fender, it seems like you can take it off and push it out and tap it with a soft hammer to re-form it. Ive done it before...its easy...might save some$$$ in my opinion, go with the subaru blue. Im starting to feel that heat here in AZ too! hood vents coming soon!

I recently blew a head gasket:mad: Subaru dealer has a complete seal kit for $230! Local parts store has a felpro seal kit for $120. I hear that only oem subie HGs should be trusted and the guy behind the counter said the fel pros meet/exceed oem and he guarantees it...I am poor. $120 kicks the pants off $230...I think I am going to go with the felpro unless someone strongly suggests otherwise. this is my daily driver so I need her back on the street asap! I searched for an hour, but couldnt find the info I needed...any help is greatly appreciated eric p.s. Once the car started acting up, I pulled over and determined the prob was the HG and had my buddies civic:eek: tow me home so Im sure the engine/heads are in good condition still and I am also going to do the other typical front end maint. too

Will I need any special tools for the idler bearings, cam seals or crank seal replacement? Also my car had a clogged single core rad so I got a dual core from radiators.com. the car runs at 190 now instead of 230 on the freeway:D it would not survive 100+ deg. summers here! I am also replacing my belt fan for an elec. thanks, eric

Skip, Thanks for the connections...I do have a Haynes and I am making a collection of parts to go under the hood in one long session. these are the items I am collecting: -oil pump seal kit -oil pump -(water pump is new) -t belts -valve cover gaskets anything else you think I should do? Im new to these engines so Im learning as I go...thanks eric

Im pretty handy and have a decent amount of tools, so I think I can tackle the pump swap. Thanks for the advice...I also did the search and found that many seals/lifters/lashers may be to blame for ticking and...well...it will just take time, knuckle skin, and $$$!

I am going to replace my oil pump seals and was wondering if it was wise to change the pump too...it has 143000 mi. about how much is a pump anyway? thanks eric

Skip, thanks for lookin out, I guess thats what the board is for. Glad I didnt do it yet, I have the diagrams at home so I will derive a manual circuit based on that info...I guess your sig proves true. thanks again. Miles, can you get a diagram to show how you say this will work? thanks eric

I was just going to do that on my wagon...simple.effective.failsafe. genious!