Valkyrie

replace the IAC o-ring.

the rough idle was caused by a bad IAC O-ring. Replaced the o-ring. After replacing all o-rings, new w/p, t/b, the nephew driving it for 1 1/2 months and loving it, some 72 yr old drunk in an Acura mdx? slams into him while sitting at a red light. Right side of trunk and tail light totaled, rear doors will not open. One tough little car. Still runs except not legal due to tail light. Any buyers??

what is the correct tq to use? Haynes manual states 70 to 80 ftlbs for 1.8 and 2.2 engines. However I've seen posted to use 125 ftlbs on this site. The haynes list 90 to 100 ftlbs only for 2.5 engines. what is the correct to use for 1.8 and 2.2 engines? thanks

my garage, my tools, but he will be learning and doing most of the work with my guidance. He's 5' 10" and 265lbs, I will see if i can show him up again when it comes to breaking that crank bolt loose, everytime I do, he's back in the gym with a vengeance. LOL

just picked up a '93 Impreza L, 1.8L, fwd, 5sp, a/c, 175867 miles, for my nephew. paid $1050.00 for it. body has one rust hole. Car runs great even though the engine is not real smooth at idle like my 2.2L, probably needs a complete tune-up. Still gets up and goes with that 5sp. has the usual oil leaks. will be changing the pullies, timing belt, oil pump and w/p. The p/s pump is leaking, should I just change the o-rings or at this mileage replace it? My understanding is that the timing belts and pulleys are the same for all 1.8L and 2.2L, is that correct? In the parts books it seams to list some part#s for a '93 only and then '94-'96is there a difference btwn a '93 and '94-96 1.8L that I should know about? Thanks for any help u can provide, what to start buying parts this wknd.

what is wearing on the pump that will make it fail? seals? bearings? not real familiar how the pump is running off the crank. thanks On side note, picked up an oem WP today. The GMB wp had a low tech impeller compared to the oem high efficent type impeller. the gmb is going back you might want to rethink that. your original oil pump most likely isn't going to last another 105,000. its only a $60 part anyway...

That's my question, it bottoms out much deeper than the driver side one does. The original was leaking (brought car w/84k) and was not all of the way in, but was flush. Is it going to leak or wear out quicker if it is bottomed out like I have it now? Is it suppose to bottom out? If I follow haynes then it shouldn't be bottomed out. Usually when I have done seals of this type before, u bottom it like u said and then it ends up being about flush like the crank seal (was leaking also) and the trans end seal I did 2 yrs ago. I have everything that u noted. Not touching the oil pump, no leaks and most things I have read indicate that the 2.5 engines have the problem with the plates screws backing out and not for the 2.2. Will be using a GMB wp, 1 yr warranty and made better than oem specs. Thanks for the help

This is my first post. Did a search couldn't find my answer. passenger side cam seal, does it mater how deep it is installed? I just installed it not realizing how deep it was going in. It is much deeper than the driver side seal which is basically flush with the head. Presently doing timing belt change @ 115k, using the OEM 105k ca belt verses the stock 60k belt. was cheaper than than the 60k belt at the dealer. Thanks