lostinthe202

I'm not sure about that. There is a plate on top of the tail section that needs to be removed so that you can access a bolt that needs to be removed that connects the shift rod to the reverse tension spring. I think access would really be too tight. Not to mention actually getting the tail section off. It's position with dowel pins that can be pretty stuck after time and grim. How bad is the leak, can it wait until the next clutch change? Will-

Yes, there is a flimsy paper gasket between the tail section and the rest of the trans, wouldn't hurt to assist it with gasket maker.

Nice, that's some serious iron there. Pulley driven lathes have the one advantage of making it that much easier to put something household friendly in the way of a motor to drive it. If the ol' man was turning wood it means he was probably spinning it pretty fast. Hopefully he kept up the lube like GD mentioned I wouldn't worry too much about the play (called backlash in machine lingo), every machine is going to have some. Yes it can be dealt with, but you'll never get rid of it entirely. These old machines were built very well and likely has many more years of use. But yes, if you're going to see wear on the ways, it'll probably but in the first several inches before the chuck as that's where most of the action happens. Those Atlas lathes have a pretty avid following. If it's got a quick-change gear box and any kind of tooling, you could sell it for a decent amount. Good luck with it! Will-

This is just a stab in the dark but, I've been in plenty of newer cars that have an airbag light for the passenger's seat that only goes out (and thus arms the airbag) if there is a certain amount of weight in the seat so you can put a baby seat in the front and not worry about the airbag deploying in an accident. If you mean that it never goes out even with someone sitting there then yeah sounds like a problem the dealer should look at, or at least a shop with airbag experience. Will-

Yeah, that would be easy to do. If there are some people interested, I could run a batch of them. Will-

That weight is great for a lathe, really makes for a stable machine, but yeah, kind of a B** to move. We've got this Monarch EE lathe at work that is only about 3.5 feet tall and about 60 inches long and it weighs in at a little under 3500lbs!! It's a toolroom lathe, really highend machinery from it's day (1961). They still make the model and it sells for just under 75K. What is the distance between center's do you know? Could be a really precise machine. Will-

What kind of P&W lathe is it? Some of those are real beasts that have a top speed of under 500 rpm and can take some massive cuts.

Congrats! Will-

Right on, hope it works out. I agree with Olnick about the tires, all four is a must especially with the automatics. The reason is that torque bind we were telling you to look out for. The AWD system is very picky about the four tires being within 1/4" or so in circumference with each other. Did you check for that by the way? Torque bind is the loss of power transmission to the rear wheels meaning no AWD. Check for it by turning the car all the way to the left or right and see if the idle will pull the car along a flat surface such as a parking lot. If you feel a stuttering or jerking, those are the signs of torque bind. It can sometimes be cured with a fluid flush but it could also mean the replacement of some pricey parts. If you do some searching on this board you'll come up with all kinds of info. If you are even kind of wrench savvy, can read English, and have access to basic automotive tools, you're totally capable of doing the timing belt job yourself. In fact you could buy the necessary tools and still come out way ahead of any shop labor rate. The timing belt is responsible for rotating the cam shaft which opens and closes the valves at the proper time. If the timing belt breaks the cams stop rotating and the valves stop where there are in their cycle. But the crankshaft, which is connected to the wheels of the car, keeps spinning and the pistons keep moving up and down. Most, if not all, newer engines are called "interference" engines meaning that if the T-belt breaks the pistons will make contact with the valves (that have stopped moving) and likely break something. The motor in this car however is a non-interference engine meaning that the pistons and the valves can move independent of each other through a full cycle and not contact. The point of this little digression is to illustrate that you could totally screw up this T-belt job and it won't damage anything, you'd just need to go back and reread the instructions and you'd be on the road. Good luck! Will-

How badly is the waterpump leaking? Like it leave puddles whenever it's parked or run? As for the smog, I'd either insist the seller do it, or let you do it before you pay him for the car. Keep in mind that cali smog is pretty pricey now too like 80 bucks I think.

I don't really see what the big deal is. As stated numerous times, it's the SELLER'S responsibility to smog the car. If it won't pass then it won't pass and Nathan moves on, if it does pass then it's just like buying any other used car. I wouldn't walk away just because it has Washington plates on it. Clearly the person selling the car is not a mechanic and doesn't want to foot the bill for the maintenance. If Nathan is wrench savvy, so much the better, if not well any used car will need something. Will-

This isn't a blanket statement. There are lots of reasons for a car to pass or fail smog. I have a '96 Outback which also didn't say if it met California emissions standards or not. I called Subaru of America and they told me it would be fine. As I said before though, the seller is responsible for smogging the car, http://www.dmv.ca.gov/vr/smogfaq.htm#BM2537 http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/brochures/fast_facts/ffvr29.htm

...and the pivot location for the fork inside the bell housing. There should be a casting for both style of forks but you'd need to tap threads into the one that isn't normally used. Not to mention you'll need a master and slave cylinders. I'm not sure if you can use the cable type clutch pedal but I suspect not. Will-

Hmm... good info. I reiterate my earlier statement about having the seller smog the vehicle (per Ca law circa 1990's) or let you take it to smog before you pay. Will-

Oopp, people posting at the same time!:banana: gotta say though, I agree about being able to see the bearing innards, where's the shield?

Wish I could help, but I don't know squat past the basics about the vehicle you're working on. I didn't want you to get discouraged at having no replies to your "live mode" post. It can take some time for people to see what's going on here. This board is most definitely quality over quantity so sometimes it takes awhile to get responses but you will usually get the info you need. You might also try the search function. Do the "advanced" mode and select "relevancy" under the "sort" options. Good luck! Will-

My '96 outback is OBDII so I was making an assumption about the '95 you're looking at. but as bobaru pointed out, the "outback" was just an option in '95 so it was probably just a regular legacy with fancy clothes on. But '95 was also the year of the legacy's redesign so OBDII may have have been a part of that. The way to tell would be to look to the lower left of the steering wheel a bit above where the hood release is and see if you see a cover there that says "diagnostic connector". This is where you plug in an OBDII scanner. I don't believe the OBDI system has this but I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong. Will-

I usually won't comment on price unless the person posting is located in the same area as me since prices really fluctuate a lot.

188k would put this engine at it's 3rd T-belt change (60k interval). You already know it needs the T-belt service. In addition to replacing the pulleys and any seals that are leaking, you'll want to inspect the oil pump. On the rear of the oil pump there is a cover held down by several flathead, phillips screws that like to work themselves loose. It's recommended to check those screws and even reinstall them using loctite. Also, be aware that you should use an anaerobic sealant when reinstalling the oil-pump as the grey or blue gasket maker can fail to dry properly and end up clogging oil passage ways in the engine. And of course all the usual used car rules apply, was it maintained, how was it driven, etc etc. Check the sticker under the hood to see if the car meets Cali emission standards. If not you might have problems passing smog. It should be an OBDII vehicle and thus as long as the engine check light is not on it will probably pass smog fine. I'm pretty sure CA law requires the seller to make sure the vehicle passes smog which is pretty pricey in Ca so I'd make the seller smog it. Check it for "torque bind" (search the forum for it) which is the term used to describe the malfunction of the all wheel drive system. This shows up primarily in the auto trans but can happen in the manuals too. To check for it, turn the wheel all the way to the right or left and let the idle pull the car along. If you feel a jerking or stuttering the trans probably has torque bind. In the autos this can sometimes be fixed with a series of fluid flushes. Good luck! Will-

Just check with your local gas supplier, some them won't fill bottles that aren't their own.

Why is that? The resurfaced ones I've seen pics of look like they were ground which makes more sense to me then doing the work on a mill.

really? Not even one horrible fireball of doom?? hehe

ah, gotcha I see what you meant.

The OP did an auto to manual swap so he didn't have the correct hardware

probably true of the pressure plate bolts, but the flywheel bolts are a pretty fine thread and Mcmaster's metric selection suuuuuucks.