lostinthe202

And for the 2.2L manual Outbacks (being 4.11)

These are hard to find as they are a large fine pitch thread (the flywheel bolts anyway) but they are cheap from the dealer, Flywheel bolt part number 800508310 - $0.39 each Pressure plate bolts - 800210660 - $0.49 each These are for legacy/foresters 95 and up or so. You don't mention what car/engine you're using but it could be the same. Look up your car here, opposedforces.com

31 is about my average mpg too, which I think is pretty good. It's also possible that the OBW's got the .871 because of the taller tires like you mentioned. It may be that .871 gears put the engine in it's optimal efficiency range for 65-70 mph and that using the .780 gears will actually hurt mpg. Probably not, but report your findings if you end up with a box with .780 Will-

That's funny, I have a '96 OBW 2.2L and had the same experience. My trans was not listed on the chart. By using a gear calculator like this one, http://www.scirocco.org/gears/ I found my 5th to be .871 but It really doesn't matter as long as the final drive is the same (4.11) you could use either one. And the clutch type, hydro vs. cable. In fact the .780 might yield slightly better MPG on the highway. Will-

Any play in the crank gear is no good. There have been repairs to the keyway when this kind of thing happens but I'm not sure what they are exactly. Try searching here on the forum using the "advanced search" function as this has been covered many times before. The 2.2 doesn't need the revolution of the system like the two belt, EA82 engine (the 1.8 your used to) does. It is possible to get the belt off a tooth or so. Again do a search on 2.2 timing belt changes and you should come up with pages and pages and pages of info. Good Luck! Will-

If you buy a 60* countersink and do the countersinking in a drill press with your wheel clamped to the table, some cutting oil and run at say 200 or so rpm, you should be able to get nice clean chamfers. Will-

There was a thread within the last year or so where someone posted the inclusive angle of Subaru lug-nuts but I can't seem to find it. Once you know that angle, buy a countersink with that angle from Mcmaster-Carr or somesuch place and you've got it. Hopefully someone who knows will pitch in the answer. If nobody does, get yourself a protractor and find the angle yourself.

You holding out on us or what? Where's them pics!!??

Those are for the pitch stopper dogbone that connects the engine/trans assembly to the chassis.

How is the length of the hose a factor in this instance? The volume of air in the hose, whether it be 10 feet or 50 is just added to the volume of the compressor right? It's the diameter of all openings involved that help determine CFM isn't it? Volume just affects how long that CFM can be sustained? I'm a dummy at this stuff too. I really need to learn it, I just always forget until something like this comes along:lol:

Just don't let the metal get to hot and loose it's temper.

That's what I like about this board, ya'll attack the problem like a baby shakin' dingo. As I said in my last post (which I should've been more clear in my first post, my fault) I have no interest in finding the vibration. I'm with Nipper, the click in the u-joints is enough to make me replace the shaft or have the joints replaced by a shop or whatever. All four axles and all four bearing housings (and bearings) are being replaced. The tires seem to be in good shape, but we'll see if the vibration is still present when I put the car back together. All I wanted to know about was troubleshooting the LSD portion of the rear diff. If everything checks out, i'll assume it's good and offer it up for sale with the option to return if I'm wrong. Thanks everyone! Will-

I've pulled the driveshaft already. Neither joint was frozen and neither was sloppy, however they both and a rough spot in one direction, but not very major. The boot is intact and I couldn't detect any rotational slop, is it worth cutting the boot off and having a look? Starting around 50 mph there is a "clunky" noise coming from the middle/rear of the car accompanied by a vibration that seems to ebb and flow as I accelerate. Gear and rpm seem irrelevant as it will happen in both third and fourth (4EAT) That's about all I got from memory. This car is in pieces at the moment so there won't be any more road tests on this diff. I was told it was bad when I got the car and I'm putting a different drive train in it and putting in outback hubs on all four corners (with good bearings) so I didn't care too much to find out what it was. I only got interested once I found out in was some sort of LSD 'cause that means I might be able to sell it if it's in good shape. Thanks Will-

At least I think that's what it is. I have a 2000 Forester auto with the winter package which according to what I've been able to find out means it's got a 4.444 final drive VLSD. Is this correct? The particulars: This Forester was diagnosed by some unknown independent mechanic as having, among other things, a "bad rear differential". When I drove the car, I did feel a vibration at speeds above 50 mph or so but to me it really felt like a U-joint. There was nothing I would describe as whining or droning. When I pulled the drive shaft out of this Forester both joints had hard spots in one direction, center joint boot was intact, but I wouldn't say the hard spots were enough to cause the vibration I was feeling/hearing, but then I'm no expert in these things. There's tons of things that can cause vibrations from CV's to wheel weights to tires etc. so who knows. When I pulled the rear cover off of the diff, I saw nothing out of the ordinary, no obvious signs of bad bearings or tooth damage. I have an FSM for a 2000 model year Legacy/Outback/Impreza with no mention of the Forester. The sections on rear diffs don't mention any kind of diff other then the "rear differential" so I don't know if there are any differences in the diagnostics of a Forester VLSD(?) to the open type. I'll be performing the diagnostics mentioned in the manual on this diff, but can anyone tell me anything to look out for on this that might be different then the ordinary routine? Thanks as always! Will-

HHHAAAAAAhahahahahahaha

I wouldn't bother with the spring. It really won't long before it returns to what it felt like before.

Yeah, my clutch felt to "light" as well, don't worry it returns to normal pretty quickly:rolleyes: I feel like all the grease I put in there is already gone. Next one I do, I'm going to make a pivot post out of oilite and see how that does. How's the trans shifting?

I realize I'm speaking out of turn here being newish to the forum, but I nominate WCSS/USMB vote as judge........ looks soo fun!

Nice, sounds like the damage wasn't too extensive. Yeah those alignment pins on the rear section can be stuck good eh? I soaked mine a bunch I think, I but I got lucky and didn't have much of a problem getting the tail section off. Will-

I've got a FSM for a chevy c10's from the 80's at home. I'll see if there is any info in it that is pertinent when I get home. Will-

Weird on that rust ring. Is that the original clutch? I know what you mean on the exhaust. When I pulled mine off the outback the last time it broke in two at the joint behind the trans, still running one of those stainless braided stop-gap deals. Changes the voice of the car a bit, kinda like a squirrel with it's cheeks full of nuts:grin: On the axles, I pulled the top camber bolt out of the knuckle (after marking location, though I didn't really need to because of the rust pattern:rolleyes:) and loosened the lower one and the knuckle (and axle) just pivot right out of the way. Just another one of those tricks picked up from the good ol' USMB. You still gonna open the trans up?

As many have said before, anything is possible with enough time and money. The stuff you mentioned is really probably the easy part. The newer engine you use, the more of an electrical headache you're bound to get. Possibly the intake from something fuel injected that is a known quantity like an EJ22 would fit. That would make things much easier. Sounds like you're got some research to do.

Brown is my favorite color for that body style, nice ride!

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