lostinthe202

Man, what a crap deal. You'd think if they weren't going to make them serviceable they'd at least put a zerk fitting on it.

What did you do about your speedo? How far off is it?

What makes the U joints not serviceable?

So you drill out the engine side and thread those studs into the plate from the engine side then use the existing EA bolts on top?

OK, I didn't realize drilling the top two bolt locations through and bolting in from the back side was an option, I'll have to scrutinize that. That must mean on the welded stud that the upper hole is drilled out and a nut is placed on the each side eh? Thanks

This I've seen on SJR's page, but I didn't really understand how it was supposed to work. With the studs welded together there is no way of telling where in the rotation the EJ side would tighten up so the relative angle at which to weld the studs would be individual for each engine/bolt combination and pretty subjective at that. Is loctite used? Or is the setup just counting on the fact that the welded bolt can't rotate so having it tight to the EA trans is enough? So you don't think the extra two bolts is enough? They aren't on top for sure, but they are fairly high up. Note that the bolt you see below the starter is not the starter mounting stud but rather a bolt located just below EA = Yellow EJ = White Not sure what you mean here,

I'm making an adapter plate to mate an RX trans to a SOHC 2.5L and the two top bolt holes from each pattern are too close together to accommodate. I've thought of a few of solutions, the most favorable being to bolt the EA side to the adapter and use nothing for the EJ side since there are two more top bolts on the EJ side on this model of EJ. How does this sound to those experienced in this? I'll be using all four dowel pins so I figure rotational forces are taken care of. What other solutions have you peeps come up with? Will-

That is waaay cool. The only problem I see is the rental for the helicopter to airlift it out when it does get stuck, hehehe

Interested in the trans, PM sent.

Not heard of this "anti-fowler" what is it?

"buyer beware" eh?

Do some searching on how to seat the torque converter, I'm sure it's covered. Use the advanced search, the drop down search sucks, and don't forget to sort your results by "relevancy" instead of last posting date. Good luck! Will-

Bummer to read of your trouble, there is an access cover just below the throttle body on the passenger side. It's often missing, but if it's not it's a rectangularish rubber deal with a little tab to use to pull it off. That lets you access the four bolts holding on the torque converter. Access is pretty bad, but make sure you have a good solid hold on those bolts so you don't strip them, that's another headache you don't need, go on ask me how I know If it turns out that your pump is shot, I just pulled an auto trans out of a 2000 Forester. I don't know what year your pop's OBW is, but I'll sell it to ya cheap cheap. I don't need or want it. It shifts fine, but has light (probably fixable) torque bind. Good luck! Will-

I made one of the garden sprayer variety and as stated above the leaks are really the weakness in the system. I'd use some solvent resistant gasket maker on your connections along with hose clamps and give it the full 24 hours to dry. Sounds like a neat setup though Will-

I've got this wiring diagram, however I'm not sure I'm reading it correctly. I read in all of the AT to MT swap writeups that I've come across that a pin needs to be grounded or not to have the ECM identify itself as belonging to an AT or MT car. So looking the two wiring diagrams over I've concluded that Pin 8 of connector B22 is open (not connected to anything) on the AT and is grounded on the MT, so I should ground this pin. Am I correct? Here's the AT: And here's the MT:

hehe, I thought about it. A come-along actually as I couldn't get that bad boy to budge. But I finally found a good pry spot between the engine cross member and the bulge at the bottom front of the trans. Man that thing is a beast! I had to do some crazy Egyptian engineering to get it into the back of my truck to take to work to measure up for my adapter plate.

Thanks, no if the trans would just unstick from the engine I could get on with my day

Yeah, it's filled with spring loaded steel pins. Remember those coffee table toys with all the nails that you would press against your face and it would leave the shape of your face in the nails? Same idea, the pins retract around whatever shape you're trying to hold, then as you rotate with the wrench handle, the pins bunch up and "grab" the object. It's only a 3/8's drive and I can't really tell how the pins are held in so I'm not sure how much abuse it could really take, but it got done what I needed it to do!

Thanks for the info everyone. Gary is right, this trans isn't going back in (nor any other auto for that matter) but it's good to be informed anyway. I don't want to destroy anything as I'll try and sell this for a few bucks. Will-

hahaha, I know right? For once an infomercial tool actually worked. I was pretty skeptical but it was recommended by a reliable source so I figured what the heck I'd take the chance with the 10 bucks. I don't think I'll be replacing my entire socket set with it as the packages suggests I should:rolleyes: Will-

Considerably better priced then the flywheel retaining tool. I guess not really a surprise considering what it is:rolleyes: So the TC wants to stay attached to the Trans so it won't make a mess correct?

I've drained the fluid, is there still a bunch in the TC?

2000 Forester First time pulling an auto trans, In my time on the forum I've heard mention of being careful to seat the torque converter correctly lest one damage the pump (I think that was the reason). Does the same consideration need to be taken to get the trans out or can I just wiggle and waggle and pry like with a manual trans? Thanks! Will-

I did, yesterday. Didn't disconnect anything but the wiring harness and the EGR as you mentioned and propped it up with a piece of wood. Even with the alt. pulled the wobbler angle is still pretty great, or at least I couldn't seem to find a good angle. Tried that, even bought a longer nosed pair (been meaning to anyway) but no go. So what finally worked? Probably a combination of things. I tried welding a nut to the bolt head, but I really couldn't get in there to clean things up so that didn't work out to well. I tried the "gator grip" socket in the pick below but it didn't seem to grab very well so I used the welder to build up the head a little bit (and heat it up) then the gator grip thing worked. Glad that's over with:banana:

Gary, I was thinking along the same lines. I pulled the intake today to get a good straight shot at it (sorry Mike, I figured what the hell intake gaskets aren't all that bad) and it still wouldn't budge. My pipe sweater is just too dinky to try and heat the bolt. I think I can get in there with the MIG now that I've pulled the intake (partially pulled, just removed the head bolts and propped the intake out of the way). 574-240sx Yeah I was thinking of something similar. I tried a few with my cold chisel, but without the intake fully removed (a step I'm still hoping to avoid) I can't get a good angle on it and I don't have an air-chisel. GD suggested one of those universal sockets, I'm going to try that before I break out the welder.