lostinthe202

No brainer, Milling machine:banana: Takes up a lot less room and infinitely more useful

And of course with colder ambient temps and "winter blend" gas your mileage suffers from those alone

Awesome score GD, Bison makes good chucks, that chuck alone could be worth 1/2 what you paid for the enter package. Will-

How about an update? Any axle problems? How about your mileage? Auto or manual? Thanks! Will-

I didn't replace any synchros when I did my trans work, but I did read up on it in the FSM and if you get into taking apart the pinion shaft you'll need to reset the backlash on the front diff. It didn't look all that difficult, just potentially time consuming. You'll need the appropriate shim pack and a spring scale. It may be that you could reuse the shim setup that's currently in the trans for the backlash, again I don't know.

my pop taught me the term "stake nut", not sure if that's the common term or not. Ya know, when I saw that giant nut, I thought the torque rating was going to be huge, but as it turns out, it's not on all that tight so I didn't bother to replace it. If you split the part that stakes bad so it can't act as a lock anymore then I'd replace it, but otherwise I don't see the point. make sure to watch out when you pull fifth gear off, the syncros have three small parts that will go flying if you're not careful. Will-

Depends on your definition of "major repair" I guess. The trans has to come out and taken apart. I'd say if you were having a shop do the work, find a trans from a JY and go with that. If you're doing the work yourself, well that's up to you how you want to spend your time. It would've been about the same price for me to replace the trans with a used unit as I spent on seals and bearings, but I wanted to take the trans apart so I wasn't worried about the time it took.

Animal_Gso, Welcome to the board, Do you have any bearing noise? Like growling? If it's popping out, my guess would be a bad bearing someplace, like maybe the needle bearing on either the input or pinion shafts for fourth gear. But I'm no expert, you might want to start your own thread as you'll be more likely to elicit responses to your particular question. Parts are going to come from the dealer. Some dealers do online business and usually have a bit better prices. such as 1stsubaruparts.com and subarugenuineparts.com

It's not too hard at all. My trans ('96 outback 5spd) had the same bearing failure. The EJ trans design is basically the same as for the older EA series cars which mostly had a dual range transmission. As seen in this pic of an EA trans, the red arrow points to the input shaft bearing that is just about right behind the clutch (in front of the reduction gears for the low range) Compare that of this shot of my EJ trans when I had it apart. Notice that there is a whole lot of unsupported shaft with just a little seal up front. This puts a whole lot more stress on that rear roller bearing. It's really a bummer that Subaru cheaped out there. But the bearing is really easy to change. You have to take fifth gear off, and you'll need some sort of puller to pull off the bad bearing (or remnants of it) and ideally a press to put the new one back on. You should consider replacing the input shaft seal while you have it apart and maybe even the dowelled input shaft bearing up front. Also, make sure you're mechanic friend has the tightening sequence and torque values for the case bolts. Also, make sure he doesn't screw with the two retaining rings around the stub axles in front (on the outside of the case). They control the bearing preload for the front diff and will cause bearing failure if not set properly. Good Luck! Will-

Yeah, step one really should just be to drive it and see what kind of an error I'm looking at. I rarely drive the 10-15mph over the posted limit that is the norm around here anyway.

This is true of the Auto trans. The manual trans, the driven gear is located on the side of the trans case and is driven off of the section of the pinion shaft pointed at in this pic, Here's the driven gear on the other case half A close up of the pinion gear section in question, That sounds handy, I'll try and find it in a search.

The drive gear is the pinion shaft, which I've been told is the same as far as the speedo gearing section goes. It's still bothering me that the manual and auto versions of '00 Foresters have the same speedo face which makes me think that the drive gear (pinion shaft) is different which doesn't make sense. the drive gear is basically a worm gear and if the driven gear is the same part number for '96 and an '00 then that worm must have the same pitch even if they were different diameters. But I guess the speedo could just be calibrated differently ie the needle is stuck on at a different place between the two.

Only problem is the '96 appears to have different mounting points and shape then the '00

Hmmm.... so looking at some clusters on ebay, the manual trans clusters also only go to 120 with 60mph being in a different place then on my manual trans outback. So maybe resetting the needle is the thing to do. To make this even more complicated, I'll be putting in a 3.7 final drive setup. So how about this plan: Instead of trying to reset the needle while driving on the freeway like John Evil Knievel Ceggleston did (hehe) I could obtain an RX instrument cluster (what the trans and diff are out of) pop the driven gear off and spin the shaft with a drill and note the speed. Then do the same for the Forester setup and pop the needle on at the appropriate place. Think that would actually work?

Mechanical Yes, this does help. The OBW has 205/70 15" and the Forester has 215/60 16" which makes them just about the same OD, which would explain why they have the same speedo driven gear since they both also have 4.11 final drive (in the manual trans versions). So my options are to either put in the '96 cluster which probably won't fit connection wise, swap faceplates which sounds like a bear, or obtain a cluster from a manual trans Forester which should be calibrated the same as the '96 and just deal with the odometer difference which is probably what I'll do. Thanks!!

How reliable are these? Replacements still available? How about the switches? I recently picked up an RX trans and the actuater cable and housing is very much toasted. Looking at the layout, this appears to be for the 4x4 while the hi/low is lever controlled. Any reason a second outfit couldn't be obtained and setup to operate the hi/low. I neglected to take the box the vacuum lines were plugged into. This assume is the controller. Anything else involved like a relay or anything? Thanks! Will-

doitdoit

I looked up the part numbers for the speedo driven gear on opposedforces.com for an '00 Forester and a '96 OBW and they are the same. So if I were to use the '96 manual trans in the previously automatic Forester, it should still work correctly with the Forester wheels and tires or do the auto/manual Foresters have different gauge clusters? How does the speedo needle actually move? I noticed that the Forester's speedo goes to 120 while the OBW's goes to 140, so 60mph (for example) is in a different place on the dial for each cluster. Is the sender that the driven gear is attached to different for each car and thus sends a different kind/strength of signal? , or is this again a manual/auto trans thing? The catalog shows the same part number for what I'm thought was the sender, but it just calls it a "speedometer shaft" so is this not the sender at all? Thanks! Will-

Hi, welcome to the forum. Auto trans or manual trans? Either way, it should physically fit but the bolt pattern in the '02 has some extra bolts that you wouldn't be able to use with the '96 trans. If it's an auto, I can't speak to TCU, ECU, switch compatibility as I don't know squat about them. I suggest you do some searching. Use the the advanced search option as the normal search function sucks. I also suggest you start a thread so you'll get more responses to your question. Will-

Well, we can set you up with the MIG, we call it the hot glue gun. With the right setting and a little practice, you'll be fine. As for what to use, I'm not sure on that either. There are several people here who have fabbed their own stuff. "Old gen" would be the place to look for custom bumpers, they could recommend what kind/size of material to use. As for where to get it, there's a steel supplier in Manassas called BMG metals. Pretty decent prices and stock, family owned and operated. They'd be more or less on your way from Charlottesville. But yeah, you'd have to come up with a design. I thought the design of this bumper looked good. You could improve on that one. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=93787&highlight=I%27d+like+to+climb+that Either way, if you get a hair up your but it's an option. Will-

If you're handy, I've got a tube bender, MIG and TIG. If you feel like making the drive up to DC, you can make one in the shop on a weekend day while I'm there working on my own stuff. Will-

Thanks for the tips everybody, it went swimmingly considering how rusty that car was! Not one bolt stripped or broke, didn't have to take apart a single axle....weird. anyway, thanks for the help! Will-

ah, right of course. Usually people are D/Ring their EJ not the other way around. I don't know it's proper name, but I was referring to the dogbone that bolts to the chassis and to the trans on EJ's and on the engine on all EA's (I thought). Anti-roll bar? Anti-torsion bar?

Looks like he's still got it, http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=864945#post864945

Cool pics! I'm a bit confused, being pretty new to Subarus. Is the pic of the split trans the EJ case? It looks just like it. Is the point of this to put EJ internals in an EA pattern case so as not to have to deal with adapters and the missing torsion arm thingy (though I see one on that case so I guess XT6's had them on the trans as well? Know what you mean about those needle bearing pins. When I replaced the big double roller bearing on the back of the input shaft of my EJ trans I experienced the same thing. Wished Subaru hadn't a cheaped out instead of putting another bearing up there behind the front input shaft seal. Anyway, I ended up putting a dot with a sharpie approximately 180 degrees from the pin hole to help line it up. Will-