lostinthe202

OK, here it is. Brought it home last night. I didn't snap a bunch of pics, we all know what these look like right? The particulars: 2000 Forester, 204k miles, never any HG issues, solid maintenance history since new. Total cost = zero dollars and zero cents. The problems: bad passengers front wheel bearing, bad rear diff, torque bind, engine needs a nose job, needs a front axle. The plan: Cannibalize my tired '96 Outback wagon for parts. I recently replaced the bearings and did a reseal on my 5spd trans in my outback so I'll just put the whole drive train in. Swap the passenger's front knuckle. The PO ran on that bad wheel bearing for a good long time so even though I'll be replacing it with a bearing that has 212k miles on it, I know that the hub isn't out of round so when it does go I'll be putting a bearing into a known good knuckle. The pain of this is of course going to be the wiring. But this is going to be a long term project so I've got time to figure out the bugs. The hardest part is no doubt going to be getting the speedo accurate. I may end up putting the OBW wheels on it, I dunno. We'll see. Anyway, I'll update as I progress, but again this isn't going to happen overnight, I just don't have that kind of time unfortunately. Will-

3rd, but act quickly. Once upon a time nobody in the trade (machinist anyway) looking for quality and accuracy would touch Mitutoyo measuring tools. Starrett was the way to go. I run a student machine shop at an engineering school and we had a Starrett digital caliper that was dropped once and stopped working while the Mitty calipers have been dropped, spilled on, used for all kinds of uses they weren't intended for and are still accurate to within .0005 Buying Starrett is like buying a Toyota truck, you will automatically pay a premium over the competition just because of the name based on a reputation. I'm not saying that all their stuff is crap, but you will pay more for it. Even on feebay used, worn-out Starrett stuff will sell for 75% of what a new item would cost. People are quickly catching on to the Mitty stuff so the prices of those are starting to creep up. Especially now since all the machinist left from when our country actually made stuff have discovered ebay and are trying to outfit their home shops. GD and others on this board will know better then I which measuring instruments and in what sizes are the most useful for engine work. Feebay is a good place to go, but again like Heartless said, watch the shipping charges, ask questions about condition, and compare to new prices. penntoolco.com is a great place to go for stuff like dial indicators and other precision measuring gear. The fella that works there is a straight shooter and will give you good advice on how good of a tool you need for your purpose. of course, I don't know what shipping will be like to NZ. Good luck! Will-

hmm... alright, I'll give that shot. Thanks Gary

'95 legacy, 240k, 5spd. This is a buddy's car. The front brakes have been dragging and it's kind of stumping me. The front calipers have been replaced, the brake fluid changed. The pins are free moving and the caliper brackets have been cleaned up so the pads move freely. The master cylinder is probably the original, but it does look cleaner then everything else so hard to say. My buddy has only had this car for a year or so and bought it with no maintenance history. The problem is that the front brakes are dragging. Not enough to smoke and only occasionally enough to create a smell that can be detected at a stop with the window open. But after even short drives, both front wheels are borderline hot to the touch. The interesting part, driving down the road the car feels sluggish (like the brakes are dragging...) if I reach down and pull the pedal up with my hand (or my foot) you can feel the brakes ease up and the car will roll like normal. This can be done from a stop on a slight incline, the car won't roll but if you pull up on the brake pedal it will. Does this sound like a sticking master cylinder? Thanks!! Will-

Good point, my statement referred to regular driving down the street, not wheeling or stuck in the mud or anything like that.

Didn't mean to say it couldn't be done without pulling the trans, I'm not qualified to so say one way or the other. My only comment was on the "tightened the ring all the way then backed it of a little" approach. What's "a little" 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn 2 full turns? I understand the OP didn't have much choice since the ring was seized, but still it's hardly accurate. Perhaps you could do the "turn counting until firm" on the other side and make this one the same? I really don't know how far off from each other they would be. Also, I don't think it'll be bearing noise that you'll hear but the gears whining instead.

If you're trying to push the limits, you should invest in an aftermarket tach setup so you know for sure. Otherwise, it's been my experience with the myriad of older cars that I've owned that the engine is screaming and the body is shaking, and the stick is vibrating, long before red-line.

Sadly, no. The diff backlash is set by painting a layout die on the diff and looking for a specific wear pattern between the ring and pinion gears, so you have to have things apart to see this. The tolerances are very tight, too tight for production so there is no single amount of "backing off" that will work for every diff. You may not be hearing noise yet, but you will if that adjustment isn't correct. It will probably last several thousand miles before it fails, and you should hear some warning signs before it happens, but fail it will. You might be able to find a board member with an auto trans with torque bind and pick it up for cheap then swap on your center diff section. Good luck! Will-

I don't recall on the 175 - 350 frame, it could very well be the same frame. As for front ends. Check out these charts. All you really need is for the fork tube diameter to be the same and you can pick something out. They're from a chopper site, but whatever, the info's good. fork tube compatibility chart http://www.resurrectediron.com/fork_diameters.pdf fork stem compatibility chart http://www.resurrectediron.com/stem%20sizes.pdf

Sweet, I love free bikes! If you plan on riding that CL around with any kind of regularity, I suggest finding a front end from a later year that has a disc brake, 'cause drums in front suuuuuucks. Measure the fork tube diameter and start searching most of the bikes of similar vintage and CC size will have the same fork tube diameter. Grab the master cylinder and you're all set. Looks like a fun project! Will-

Why, to get to the other side of course

Doubt you'll find it at an aftermarket place, I think you'll have to get one from a dealer or a JY. Mine was 12 bucks from the dealer so not bad. I wasn't sure it was my fork until I had things apart, but at 12 bucks, not much of a risk if it ends up the fork is fine. Good luck! Will-

if you still have the problem after adjusting the cable, your clutch fork could be bending. Over time the grease on the pivot ball dries up and the metal on metal contact wears the fork out. This happened on my Outback. I greased it, but I feel like it's already stiffer and it's only been about a year since I did the job. Next time I have thing apart, I'm machining a pivot out of oil impregnated bronze! I agree with GD on pulling the engine. I've done it both ways now and wrestling that trans around by yourself with blocks of wood and bottle jacks suuuuuuuuuuucks. The engine route was much easier. But then I don't know what your resources are, I'm working on plywood over gravel.

Anyone got a chart? Thanks! Will-

I think you might have misread, there's nothing wrong with 2.5, the 2.2 has lifter tick that won't go away, but I'm not going to burn either engine. The only thing that is getting burned is the auto. I won't own an auto, if the swap doesn't work out, I'll put the auto back in and sell the car. W-

Aw shucks, I like you guys too. Yeah, that's part of what sold me is that the Forester seats (aside from just being newer) have many more adjustment options that let me get rid of the "bucket" position that's been killing me in the outback. I knew it was interference, but I didn't know that about the tensioner, thanks for the tip. I'll pick up a new one as the OBW's is original as far as I know. I'm assuming/hoping that there is a cheapo ebay kit for the sohc 2.5 like there is for the 2.2 auto's drive me crazy (no pun intended, hehe) I really haven't like one yet. That is until I rented this '08 Ford Focus the other month, I was really impressed and that's saying a lot considering my opinion of Ford. anyway, I know it will be a lot of work, but for once I'm not under the gun to keep it on the road like I have been with the outback. The wife and I have been able to work out a mutual commute which has been great. Yeah, I'd considered this. The oil pump was resealed and the screws on the back plate checked at 160k when I did the last T-belt. The service is due soon, so I think I'll pull the belt and inspect the pump first. If it's leaky or the back plate is loose, I'll pop for the kit and fire it up and see how she sounds. If everything is good, I'll store her and run the 2.5 until it gives out then swap then. If she still ticks, I'll probably keep the motor anyway.

Thanks for the help. I've read a few write-ups here and in other places about going auto to manual, but they all deal with pre 2000 stuff. From what I've read, the bellhousing bolt up, but the 2000 and later (or '99 and later maybe) have more bolts. The old holes are in the same locations, there's just more off them. The "fix" is to just not use the extra bolt locations. As for the wiring harness, I have all the correct plugs, it's just a matter of a date with a soldering iron if things don't plug up. Seems to me that using the 2.2 ecu is preferential, but I don't know if the Forester's harness will accept it. If I'm to figure out the speedo accuracy business, I need to know the: stock tire size driven gear tooth count drive gear tooth count final drive ratio For both vehicles, correct?

Ah I see again, So If I were to put the '96 manual trans into the 2000 auto Forester, as far as the speedo is concerned, what needs to change? I'll be using the 2.2l ecu and cruise computer. But I'd like to keep the Forester gauge cluster which tops out at 120 as oppose to 140 for the '96 OBW. Will it read correctly? If not, is it just a matter of changing the driven gear in the trans? Thanks!!

Thanks for the feedback. I haven't ever had car payments and I don't ever plan to. Seems to be one of the best kept secrets in car ownership, if you can read English, you can work on cars...

Alright, for "go for it" 's and no nays. Of course, what did I expect on a Subaru board But, I think it does make sense to do... at least it makes sense for people who are used to playing legos with cars! Thanks for the offers of help. Car work is sort of like an improv jazz session for me, I have to take bits of free time as they come and rarely get to plan anything out. I've got my backup transpo roadworthy and the wife and I commute together most days of the week, so there isn't too much of a time constraint aside from finishing before ski season ends! Will-

Ah now I remember, when I had my trans apart I saw the speedo gear being driven off the pinion shaft on the side of the case. So the Auto has two of these set ups, front and rear, as well as the tone ring on the axle or instead of? The manual has the one on the trans and the tone ring?

Sad but true. There's some years before it's gone, but yeah it's coming. hehe, actually referring to all the pulleys, waterpump, etc. as the "friends". Sadly I have no friends who live on this coast that are into wrenching.

I'll try not to make this too lengthy, I currently own a '96 OBW, 2.2L, 5spd with 212xxx on the odo. It's been a good car but it is starting to come unglued. The exhaust is rusting apart, the brakes need a rebuild in all four corners, the body has rust developing in the wheel wells as well as in many places underneath (PA car), between my unruly dogs and their unruly owner the interior is pretty well shot. The front end is rumpled from a rear-ender and is partially gorilla glued together. The engine runs well, but has lifter tick that I haven't been able to ditch. I've bled all the lifters and replaced those that wouldn't pump up (only two), I checked the rocker arm oil passages for muck to no avail. It's due for the T-belt and assorted goodies so I was going to try changing the oil pump to see if that had any effect. A friend of mine recently picked up a new vehicle and was looking to get rid of his 2000 Forester which is in need of several things. He doesn't work on cars and didn't want to pony up. Here's the particulars, 2000 Forester, 204xxx miles, auto Needs: pass front wheel bearing rear diff. has torque bind front axles timing belt and friends are due So here's what I'm considering. All of the parts that are wrong with this car could be pulled from my OBW. True - many of these parts are about the same miles so may fail after not too long. True - this scheme would involve my diff 4.11 which would also involve my trans, so that means an auto to manual swap. (something I would do anyway, I hate autos) True - not exactly a weekend project. True - less rust on the the Forester True - even though it's 4 years newer, they have virtually the same miles. True - the Forester would be a gift so I'm starting at zero invested. What say you Subaru community? Thanks! Will- EDIT*** forgot to mention, the Forester has a solid maintenance history going back to original purchase, never any HG issues.

That is, in the '96 and later legacys and foresters. Specifically, a '96 Outback Wagon, and a 2000 Forester? I know there is a tone ring on one or both of the front axles, does the signal come from anywhere else?

Man, that guy put a lot of work into that write up. You're right, it's great. I really liked the toroidal CVT, I've not encountered that one.