lostinthe202

That's an interesting looking vise. Looks like it could be handy if it's well made. Doesn't look like you can grab round things efficiently despite what that picture shows however and the ability to grab round things is pretty key I think. I like the rotating vises that GD mentioned, but if you get one don't skimp. The cheap ones are not worth the steel their made out of. They basically won't tighten enough to prevent rotating whenever you're really putting some rump roast on something, super frustrating. Will-

Buuuuuuut if you have your heart set on a 4bt swap, I happen to have one for sale

I made some steps towards putting a TDI in an EA82 wagon and found that the body needed about 6" to be able to close the hood. I wasn't after a lifted, offroad only rig or some huge "power buldge" in the hood so I didn't pursue it. The 4bt is tall engine, taller then the TDI by several inches. Most of the vehicles (land cruisers, international scouts, etc.) do a spring over axle conversion to get any kind of ground clearance and those vehicles are already higher up then a subaru starting out. Not to mention the power supplied by a 4bt is going to be more then the drive train can take which would mean doing a solid axle conversion, which means putting in a frame. Of course anything can be accomplished with time and money, but unless you have plenty of both...

Man that's a bummer. Just never can tell huh? You sure about that 110k miles? Does the dash bezel looked scratched? hehe Good luck with the sale! Will-

How's about your timing belt and components? How many miles are on the engine? When is the last time you did the belt? How about the tensioner? Perhaps your belt slipped or broke.

I know this is a total long shot but: Anyone happen to be familiar with these bikes? I've got some electrical questions that seem to be pretty specific to this bike or possibly other Yamahas of similar vintage that used the same electrical system. Thanks! Will-

The nighthawks do make good first bike 'cause the saddle is so low and thus the center of gravity. They are also really popular with the ladies again because of the low saddle height for those with short legs. Makes reselling them pretty easy, at least around here. Yeah aside from cleaning up the carbs on that CL probably the only thing you'll have to do is clean up the points and maybe trim the spark plug wires, new plugs, new fuel filter (hopefully the tank isn't too rusty) and you'll be all set. Probably want to invest in some fork seals and new rubber, oh and oil that chain! Happy scooting! Will-

That all looks great. You should take a cutting torch to the skid plate rad cover and make yourself a designer grill! Will-

OP states in the first post that plugs (NGK), wires and coil(s?) are all new. Could still be arcing I suppose, but... As for testing the MAF, I've read many posts about testing MAF sensors by tapping them with the butt of a screwdriver while the car is idling. If the idle stumbles, the MAF is bad. I realize this is far from a comprehensive test, but it is easy to do.

Definitely not!

[quote=nipper;869465 YEs they have been for a few years now. This has been an on again off again on again forcryingoutloudmakeupyourminds on again thing. heheh , OK I get it, like that obnoxious couple that just can't decide to "be a couple" Well, not really my cheese. I think anything after the mid 90's looks like a sports shoe of some variety or another. Even my '96 OBW annoys me in the looks department, but damn do I love the engineering.

I don't get it, are Subaru and Toyota working together these days?

Not insulting your intelligence or anything but, you were checking on a flat, level surface right?

I never cared for any of the honda's that carried the "nighthawk". At least the cruiser style ones. Once they turned it into a sortof sportsbike they became a bit more fun. That CL 175 is a fun bike, a little small, but Sooooo easy to work on. There's like 6 parts to the whole thing. What year is it? they can be hard to find parts for, but everything is super easy to work on and pretty reliable once you take care of all the sitting disease. I'm sure it will need "carb work" if it's been sitting for any amount of time. The good news is that there is only one carb, it has no vacuum diaphragm to go bad. Clean everything up with simple green and carb cleaner and you should be good to go. You can still get rebuild kits for them off of feebay that include a floatbowl seal, needle jet and hold down clamp, main and pilot jets. Pull the throttle and see if the slide is stuck, if it is it'll be more work, but give it a good soak with simple green. Careful with using that stuff at full strength as it will eat away at the aluminum. Good luck and post some pics! If you have trouble deciding which to ride, you can always turn the 175 into a dirtbike! Just look for XL 175 parts.

Hmm... actually now, the Forester is an auto, forgot to mention that part. But, if I get into this, it's going to become a manual. I can't handle auto's they drive me crazy (no pun intended ) If I do this, my crackpot scheme is to put my OBW's trans into the Forester. I remember reading that a '96 era EJ trans will bolt to a 2000 era EJ25 you just won't use all the bolt positions in the engine. I'll modify the driveshaft if I have to then have the shebang balanced at a shop when I'm done. So basically, the OBW trans and diff, so I know the ratios will match. I just didn't know if the rear diff would bolt up to the forester or if the spines for the rear DOJ's would match. Maybe even use the OBW driveshaft and save the... ehem.. balancing act? I'll start other posts about all that stuff as it comes up. Nope, the OBW is a 2.2L Sweet! Thanks for the warning, I'll keep it in mind. Double sweet!! Thanks ya'll

Looks like I might be coming into a 2000 forester for a super (free) good (free) deal. Obviously at that price, it needs a few things. T-belt service is due Pass. front wheel bearing needs replacing Rear differential is bad. Pass. front CV joint is bad. I'm wondering about the rear diff and the CV joints. I've got a '96 OBW that is hurtin' in a few ways of it's own. The exhaust, brakes, interior are all in need of serious help, as well as rust that is starting to develop. The CV axles on my OBW aren't that old and dealer units So i'm wondering if the length, spine count/diameter are the same between the two. Also, are the diff's the same? I know they are the same ratio (4.11) I'm wondering if everything else is the same? I'll go with a new wheel bearing, but I'm wondering if my OBW can be an organ doner in those other areas. Thanks! Will-

You might consider a Honda VFR 750 as well. Fun bikes to ride, well balanced with good reliability. They have ferrings also but I don't find them too obnoxious.

The T-belt interval on a '95 2.2 is 60k so yours should've been done at 120k assuming the first belt interval was honored. This doesn't mean that the pulley should've loosened up, but the other thing that can happen is that there is a rubber insulator between the metal part the belt rides on and the metal part that rides on the crank. Those have been known to separate from each other. If you decide to try and fix it (it's worth a shot at least) I highly recommend doing the front end work of the T-belt and assorted bits. Do some searching on here using the "advanced search" and you'll find tons of info on what to do along with your timing belt. Good luck!

A one year parts and labor guarantee is pretty good. Certainly enough to install and verify the working condition. A 45k car from '95 is rare, but certainly not impossible. Manual or auto? Nothing wrong with sticking with the same model of trans, you only have 4 other years to choose from that are newer. Just make sure the gear ratios match.

I've never heard of this before, I wonder if this is my problem as well. I can't imagine taking say 5 thou off each side would be a problem as long as you indicated during setup and used a cutter with a decent radius on it so you didn't get record grooves. Or maybe just some stoning?

It depends on which bearings are bad. If it's the input bearing on the main shaft, it's pretty easy for trans work as it requires no press to fit the new bearing. If it's any other bearing it will require a press. If it's the double-roller bearing at the back of the main shaft (the shaft with the "input nose" on it) then you can get away with a seating it with a proper sized collar of a soft material such as plastic or brass or aluminum. Fifth gear needs to come off and you'll need a gear puller, but you can pound everything back into place. If it the problem ends up being bearings on the pinion or "driven shaft" then things become more complicated. You'll need to reset the pre-load on the front diff and have a spring gauge as well as a press to get the gear clusters back together. Here's a good write-up to give you an idea of what's involved in getting the box apart. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90182 And I suggest you do a search for other threads involving the inner workings of the trans as well as pick yourself up a factory manual to aid in it. Use the advanced search options for better results. I won't speak to whether this is an "easy" job or not. I was able to get it done with good results, but my bad bearing was at the back of the main shaft and thus pretty easy to replace. If it's one on the pinion shaft or is not easily diagnosed without ripping all the bearings out... well things can snowball past the point of making sense and it would just be better to find another JY tranny with a warranty or maybe one from a board member wit a good record. All that being said, the 5MT is considered pretty reliable. Perhaps you could find a JY that would give a warranty for not much more then the cost of replacement bearings. You'll just have to do your research. Good Luck! Will-

The noise is most noticeable at idle because there isn't any road notice to blend in. Do you hear the noise when you are driving? You wouldn't hear the pilot bearing noise when in gear driving since, while doing so, the input shaft is rotating at the same velocity as the flywheel so the bearing really isn't doing much. In fact you would hear a bad pilot bearing with the clutch in (disengaged) and it would go away with the clutch out (engaged). What do you mean "rubbing" noise?

What did you replace when you did your gasket job in the way of timing components? Did you do all the idlers and the belt tensioner? If you didn't, perhaps your tensioner is shot causing your timing to slip and run rough and giving the low compression?

I think the bearing Log1call is referring to is the pilot bearing which sits in the flywheel and holds the nose of the tran's input shaft. I assume since you changed the TO bearing that you also changed the pilot bearing. If the TO and pilot bearings are new, then it is likely one of the bearings in the Trans. It could be the front bearing on the main shaft (nearest the engine) but it could also be the large double roller bearing on the back of the main shaft, or one of the two large roller bearings on the pinion shaft. Did check the input shaft for wiggle when you bought the trans? Did you change the oil in the trans before use? If so did you notice any metal shavings or bits of pieces of metal? If it is a bearing in the trans it probably won't take long to build up some metal shavings. You could change the oil and clean off the magnetic drain plug (at least 95 and up legacies have this, if yours doesn't I suggest getting one) then refill and check again in a week or so. Does it have a warranty? if so I'd think about returning it. Good luck! Will-

There are flaws with that chart. the trans in my '96 OBW is not listed. What I mean is, there is A trans listed for a '96 OBW, but the number doesn't match the trans in my car. And further, the ratios listed for a '96 OBW don't give me the rpm they should so I know mine are different.