lostinthe202

They are cheap, between the drive and the time it will take me to turn them and drive back, it's tempting to just buy two new ones. Maybe I'll check for a warranty, after all they are only a few months old.

one of my favorite features of my OBW is the little steel loops that are bolted to the floor, maybe a series of those around your cargo area for all of your strapping needs.

right on, thanks for the figures

Yeah, I've got a caliper, what is the allowable variation? I can turn the rotors at work (I'm a machinist) but it means a 100 mile drive round trip, so I don't want to take the drive if I don't have to. thanks again Will-

I see what you're saying, I'll take a light turn on each and see how that does. thanks Will-

Justy is a model of Subaru, so one could infer that the pilot bearing that is "all models, w/Justy" means that that bearing will work for all models between '91 and '94. It may mean there is a flange on the bearing to keep it from sliding through the flywheel on a Justy or some other difference that doesn't prevent it from working on other models. On the other hand, following the catalog diagrams for a 2wd legacy L, the part number given (listed below the diagram) is 806212020 which if plugged into one of the online parts catalogs gives you the "all models w/o Justy" bearing. I'd go with the part number myself. Will-

You do have a pilot bearing, the dealer part number is, 806212020 http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_5/engine/flywheel/ https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html I suggest you asses the condition of the fork boot and get another. Might also be a good time to change the clutch cable. Good luck! Will-

All present and accounted for. As I said in the post, the rotors were replaced less then three months ago, and one of those months they were not being driven. Even though surface rust had built up from sitting, that all went away as the car was driven. I pulled them both off and they both look fine. I didn't check them for runout, but I don't see how rotors could warp from sitting for a month:-\ Nope, these were regreased when I did the brake job. That grease was still present and the calipers slide easily along the post. All of the piston boots were intact and my pad wear was even on both sides when I did the brake job so I left well enough alone, but this will be my next step. Maybe I missed something, or more likely the humidity allowed moisture to settle in there which never got cooked off with daily driven brakes. Thanks for everyone's input. Will-

I thought that if the clips fell off that would let your TO bearing rattle around and so make a helluva racket with the clutch out, but as soon as you put tension on it, it would shut up. Is this not the case? When you say it's linked to RPM, what do you mean? Does it get louder the faster the engine spins?

96 OBW, 209k My breaks make a clicking or knocking noise. Sounds like it's coming from the front driver's side. I can make the noise stop by pressing the breaks even lightly. It sounds like the pads are knocking around. Also, the wheel shakes when I break at speeds over about 40mph. This started over night, in a sense. I took my car off the road for about a month to work on the trans. Before it went down for the trans repair, the breaks were perfect, I had just done a break job changing the front pads and rotors, regreased everything, and changed the break fluid. During the test drive after putting the trans back in, the breaks were making a lot of noise when stopping and the shake was present. I put it down to all the surface rust that had developed while I had it off the road and figured it would work itself out. The grinding noise went away, but the shake never did and I soon noticed the clicking. My guess was that the driver's rotor had a rust booger on it that didn't want to come off, but when I dug into it, both rotors looked fine. Theories? Suggestions? Thanks! Will

Thanks fellas, I'll check 'em out! Will-

I'm not qualified to answer your question, but I can tell you that T-belt posts are like weeds on this board, ie everyone sees them and most will ignore them due to redundancy. You may get the answer about your head gaskets, but I suggest you edit the title of your post to mention them for a better pool of answers as the HG answer is really what you're after. Of course, HG posts are just as prolific, but it would still pay to be on topic. Good luck! Will-

Congrats on the successful swap! If you've got an auto trans, you should consider doing a fluid flush to try and mitigate torque bind. Not sure what the procedure is for a manual trans with potentially impending torque bind, changing the fluid is probably a good start. Others will pitch in I'm sure. Will-

Pics?

Yeah, that one post was more informative then most oil threads I've read. And as an avid "searcher" I've read Paaaalenty of threads on oil. If there's one guaranteed way to start a fight, end a fight, be on both sides, or be on no side, and loose every attempt at each, it's to make a statement about what you "know" about oil. Just some friendly advise

It's a 4 year old thread so the URL as posted could've been right. But post #12(?) has some interesting tid bits. Oil threads are "old hat' for many on this board. I'm not one of them as I know little about oil other than the fact that there are more opinions on oil, filters, and the change interval then there are species of insect on the planet. Will-

Anyone know a good forum for Toyota pickups? I realize that most Toyota truck forums people here are likely to know about are centered around 4x4's, I have a '94 2x4, but I've got some questions so I'm looking for one with friendly folks. Thanks! Will

I agree. I'm definitely not a "pimp my ride" type. That said, given that your wagon is in really good cosmetic shape, I think the wheels fit very well. Will-

I don't think you'll be able to tell anything from that. When my alt. went bad in my '96 Outback, the brake light and battery light would flicker and sometimes the speedo would quite. It was charging fine (14.4 V) while doing all of this. There are plenty of electrical types on this board who could tell you what's going on, but I'm not one of them. another thing to check is for proper tire inflation and for matching brands/sizes and or badly mismatched tread wear. Torque bind can be caused by these things, so even if the car doesn't show any signs of torque bind, it may not be far away if one of these is present. Will-

The alt could be suspect too. They were prone to having bad regulators that cause all kinds of strange electrical behavior. The 2.5L engine available between '96-'99 had a more then average chance of having head gasket failure. Drive the car for at least 30 min to let it fully warm up and make sure that it isn't over-heating. Check for torque bind in the AWD system. First make sure that the owner doesn't have the FWD fuse in. This is (I believe, I drive a manual which doesn't have this feature) in the engine compartment by the passenger's strut tower (someone will correct me if I'm wrong). it's a little black cover that says FWD on it. Open it up, there should be no fuse in the connector. If there is, then ask why it's there. If there isn't, the put the car in Drive on a flat surface, turn the wheel all the way to one side and let the idle pull the car in a tight circle. If you feel a popping or resistance then the car has torque bind and will need service. If there is a fuse in the holder which puts the car in front wheel drive, they could be trying to hide the torque bind. At 130k, the timing belt should've been done at 105k. Ask to see records that this was performed. Did they do the idler pulleys, water pump, oil pump seals, or any of the cam/crank seals? This is an interference engine which means that if it wasn't done at 130k, there is a good chance the belt will break or an idler will loose it, or the water pump will fail before the next scheduled belt service at 210k. Those are the Subaru specific things, all the rest is the same as any other potential purchase. Good Luck! Will-

As long as the edges you're lifting from aren't sharp, climbing rope would be fine for any engine that doesn't require a commercial license to drive the vehicle it's from. The tensile strength of climbing rope is several thousand pounds. I suggest using static rope though as the stretch in dynamic rope can be irritating. While I have used climbing rope for all sorts of activities (climbing included!) I'm not advocating it as a "safe" alternative to the appropriate tools. As always when you are dangling several hundred pounds in the air, use the right tools when available.

An adjustable beam like Dave's got is really the ticket. But if you can't find that or you are far away from everything in the world, http://www.mcmaster.com/#lifting-chain/=36ahh9

+1 Just like leases, rental car insurance, the list is endless. The more they want you to buy it, the more money it makes them.

If you've still got the CAD files for the sprocket holder, I can burn one out on our Laser cutter, or if it's made from thicker then 1/4" steel, the EDM machine we purchased last week However, I go for training on the EDM in Boston in the last week of August, so you'll have to wait 'till I get back 'cause as of right now, nobody in the building knows how to run it! From what I understand, trying to sell any idea to a large company is a pain. Even if you hold a patent, there's nothing keeping them from taking your idea, changing it slightly then selling it as their own product. You can take the company to court, but it's sure to have more money then you to spend on lawyers. An alternative might be to sell them online like on feebay or something. Perhaps to local shops too? I'm curious about the crank holder. I've made a couple that didn't hold up too well. They were pretty prehistoric, one was a basically a 1/4" plate with the four hole pattern drilled into it and a large hole in the center for the socket, then four pieces of 1/4 or 5/16 rod (I forget which ) welded into place and finally a 2' piece of pipe welded on for a handle. It worked but the pins bent on the first use trying to get up to 130 ft/lbs or whatever the number is. I tried another of the same basic design using stainless pins, but they weren't any better, too much hysteresis on the pins since they too long. I figured something that had a jog for the handle so that the works could fit down inside the pulley so the pins could be short. I have an idea for a third version but my timing belt job is another 15k off and I can't find the hole spacing info so it'll have to wait a few months. Maybe I can just buy yours for $40. While I'm sure I can make one that works, my time is definitely worth more then $40! Will-

Valve cover grommets for '96 2.2L I can find the gasket but not the grommets. Thanks! Will