lostinthe202

Yes I replaced the little clips that hold on the throw out bearing with new ones from the dealer. As for the rear seal, sadly I did not. I had ordered it, but it went on back order and I really needed to get my car back on the road so I didn't wait. It wasn't leaking before and it's not leaking now, so hopefully I won't have to worry about it for awhile. That and I don't think the trans has to come out to change that seal. Looks like you can just pry it out with some dental picks and press a new one in with a piece of PVC or something.

Yes I replaced the little clips that hold on the throw out bearing with new ones from the dealer. As for the rear seal, sadly I did not. I had ordered it, but it went on back order and I really needed to get my car back on the road so I didn't wait. It wasn't leaking before and it's not leaking now, so hopefully I won't have to worry about it for awhile. That and I don't think the trans has to come out to change that seal. Looks like you can just pry it out with some dental picks and press a new one in with a piece of PVC or something.

That sounds pretty much like what I did. I have a press at work, but of course it blew a seal the day before I needed it so I just used pieced of pipe and a 5 lb sledge and pounded until the ring of the hammer changed. Worked fine. As for that back plate, hm.... I missed that little detail about measuring for which one you need. I didn't need to replace that plate for it's own sake, it looked brand new, but I don't know if the bearing was different. Ah well, it's back in the car and doing fine so hopefully I got lucky! Will-

That sounds pretty much like what I did. I have a press at work, but of course it blew a seal the day before I needed it so I just used pieced of pipe and a 5 lb sledge and pounded until the ring of the hammer changed. Worked fine. As for that back plate, hm.... I missed that little detail about measuring for which one you need. I didn't need to replace that plate for it's own sake, it looked brand new, but I don't know if the bearing was different. Ah well, it's back in the car and doing fine so hopefully I got lucky! Will-

I don't think I can help you with your question, but I just replaced the rear roller bearing on the mainshaft of my trans (using this writeup as a guide) and I'm curious what you found when you got your trans apart? Also, do you have a digital camera? Can you take pics of the affected parts? That might help asses the damage. Are any of the bearings obviously bad? Like are the cages for the balls all still intact? Do the outer races wiggle, ect? Good Luck! Will

I don't think I can help you with your question, but I just replaced the rear roller bearing on the mainshaft of my trans (using this writeup as a guide) and I'm curious what you found when you got your trans apart? Also, do you have a digital camera? Can you take pics of the affected parts? That might help asses the damage. Are any of the bearings obviously bad? Like are the cages for the balls all still intact? Do the outer races wiggle, ect? Good Luck! Will

alright, if I can get it to do it regularly... or rather once it just won't start (hehe)... I'll give that a shot. Man do I looooove intermittent problems! Due to having never owned a new car in my life, I have been in the habit of carrying a tool kit since I was a teenager. I hate to just start replacing sensors, but seems like 200k is a good run and at least the crank sensor doesn't seem that expensive so maybe if the cam, TPS, and coolant temp aren't either I'll just pop for all three and carry them in the glove box. Any others that go squirrelly and can strand you? I've run every vehicle I've purchased as a daily driver into the ground and I don't intend this one to be any different. I'm shooting for at least 300k for this one. In fact I like it so much that when I hit it, I will probably buy a rebuilt engine for it. But then being an east coast car, I'll have to see how the rust is by then. OK, now I'm just rambling. Thanks for the input! Will-

The fuel filter is only a few months old so I probably won't touch that, but a fuel pump relay sounds like cheap insurance. I feel like I was hearing it, but I'm not sure that was what I was hearing. I'll try flipping up the back seat, that might make it more audible. Thanks fellas! Will-

Is this post meant for me? ...... I was hoping you would jump in, however I have not done anything inside the car. All of the trans related electrical stuff was in the engine bay rear passenger side.

Lucky for me I opted for the dash mounted oscilloscope!! All kidding aside thanks for the input. I had another crank angle sensor kicking around someplace, but I was just looking for it and I can't find it anywhere!! I don't like throwing parts at something that isn't concrete, but I depend on this car so I figured to just drive around with a bunch of sensors in the glove box! Will-

'96 OBW, 200k, 5spd, 2.2L On my way home from work, I stopped off for groceries and when i tried to restart, it just cranked and cranked. I tried again a few seconds later and it fired up as normal. I've been doing searching and reading on "no start" conditions and the crank angle sensor jumps out at me due to it's tendency to crack and that the ECU won't pulse the injectors unless it sees something from the sensor. I say this because I was getting that really fast crank like when there isn't even the attempt at a start. The curious thing (if it's the sensor, or any sensor) is that I didn't get a CEL. So... can any sensor cause the car to not start yet not throw a code? Possibly relevant info, I recently had my trans out and when I put it back in and tried to start the car for the test drive it wouldn't start. I found a junction plug unplugged, plugged it back in and it fired right up. I don't know what the plug was for, but before I found it, I could've sworn the car was not getting any fuel (that fast crank again) and I initially suspected the fuel pump. After a lot of cranking, the plugs were bone dry. I'm not too savy about how FI cars work while starting so maybe that was normal, but it seemed like if fuel was being injected it couldn't have dried that fast as I removed a plug immediately after trying. I have rechecked that plug and all other plugs I touched during the trans job. Thanks for any input! Will-

Oops! I thought the interference came along with phase II thing, sorry! Will-

phase one. The phase two for the 2.2L began in '97 also resulting in an interference engine. Thumbs way down to engineering trends:mad:

Oops! My mistake, I should have mentioned in my post that I've got a manual trans. I've edited my post to that effect!

'96 OBW 200k, 5MT I recently replaced a bearing in my trans. It was the big tandem roller bearing on the rear of main shaft that I replaced because the cages had grenaded. I picked all the pieces of cage I could find, but much of it was reduced to a shavings that were coating much of the case surface. I cleaned off everything I could reach, but I didn't disassemble the pinion shaft (the shifting on this car is flawless, before and after this hiccup) so I'm wondering if seafoam might help clean things out a bit. I was planning on running some cheap oil, changing in about a week, then again with the next couple of oil changes depending on what kind of "shaving content" I had on the drain plug (magnetic) but I saw a bottle of seafoam on my shelf and started thinking that it might help out. Basically seafoam is like kerosene (right?) so it would thin the gear oil out and maybe "scrub" the surfaces of the trans of metal shavings. I have a fifty mile commute to work, so I was thinking of dumping in half a bottle at work then driving it home and doing a fluid change then, so that would be fifty miles of mixing. What think you oh great holder of subaru knowledge? Thanks! Will-

Thanks for the kind words Edrach! This is probably the most ambitious automotive undertaking for me to date. All of my repair experience originates from need. Which is to say that, when it breaks is when I learn how to fix it if you follow me. This is by far the most ambitious of my auto repairs. I was lucky that none of the other bearings appeared to need replacing as I did not have an operational press when it can time for the reassembly of the main shaft. I've got a fifty ton press at work, but a fifty ton press with a blown seal really is a zero ton press so I dug around in the scrap bin for some sleeves of the proper diameter and hammered all the parts on with a five pound sledge. You can tell by the sound when you have everything seated correctly.

amazing that he won't do it. From what I understand, people seek out and buy that year range in order to turn it in and get the payout. I understand loyalty to a vehicle, but seriously you should try and convince him to take the money and get one from a few years earlier with less miles.

Got it back in the car yesterday. I gotta say that removing and installing a transmission by your self with blocks of wood and a couple of bottle jacks is not an experience I care to repeat. I did have the engine hoist to hold it up which helped a ton. but still a real PIA to not have someone on top and some one underneath. No major issues with the reinstall aside from some exhaust repair and that whole heat shield debacle. I finished up about 4:00pm yesterday and then wanted to take a test drive but the damn thing wouldn't start!!!! I could get a couple of rumbles but it would die immediately and then crank and crank. Plugs were dry so I thought my fuel pump took a crap from sitting for the last month. Did a dummy check of all the wires and found a junction plug that was not fully seated, clicked that in and fired right up! Test drive went swimmingly except for the loud crack just as I took off, I think my rear pads were welded to the rotors from sitting. The trans is so quiet it's amazing. I can't begin to describe the relief I felt after the test drive. It was nerve racking to do all this work and not be able to tell if it was done right until it's all back together. Now that the trans is quiet, there's nothing to cover up the noisy lifters!! I'll be tackling that next weekend. Thanks for the help everyone, and a special shout out to Gloyale for putting that write up together!

The more I look at that picture, I'd say it was a new sensor. Doesn't look like a wrench has ever been on it, and it if had been installed and returned, it wasn't on the car very long 'cause that thing is spotless and while I've never tried to clean up a used O2 sensor, I seriously doubt you could get 100k O2 sensor to look that good.

The last O2 sensors I bought had anti-seize compound on them. Not sure about the discoloration.

I love learning little factoids like that, thanks for sharing! Yeah, stainless is funny stuff. The desired feed is surprisingly fast and the speed slow due to the tendency of stainless to work-harden while being machined so it's hard to get that right when you're drilling by hand. +1 MSC generally carries a mixed bag but, in my opinion, what sets them apart from Mcmaster is that they list in their catalog if the item is USA made or an import and in most cases will give you the brand name of what you're buying. MSC also has a much superior knowledge base about their products. they will even contact the manufacturer on conference call if they can't answer your question. McMaster generally caries quality stuff, but you don't really know until you get it. And as coldfusion21 mentioned, MSC has awesome sales regularly.

Weeeeelll, once again I out thunk myself. I spent about 1/2 hour trying to tap those spacers I made to replace the busted stuff mentioned above. The only cutting fluid I had at home is some sample stuff I got at a machine show a few years back and it suuuuuuuuuuuucks. The tap was grabbing like crazy and it really shouldn't have, that steel machines really nicely. And the tap I had was not long enough to cover the 30mm stretch from one side so I was tapping in from both sides. I'm on my fourth side when the thought occurs to me, why am I not just drilling these as a through hole for the m8x1.25 and just using them as a spacer???? Doh!!! So I drilled them all out and stuck the heat shield back on in a fraction of the time:banana: The moral of the story? Maybe when something breaks you don't have take the replacement literally! Will-

I say nuts to them. And when they complain just put on your best Sean Connery accent and say, "if you don't like it, you can shuck it!" Awesome looking collection!!!! Will-

80s Subarus aren't any different than any other 80's vehicle in the sense that, even if it doesn't have high miles, everything is 25+ years old. Tie rod ends could be worn out, the rack and pinion could be worn, ball joints, etc. I would take it to a mechanic and have them give the front end a looksie.

Yeah, machine drilling and hand drilling are way different animals huh? Any decent hardware store should have some tapping fluid like tap magic or one of those. That would do ya. I get this stuff. At $15 a gallon it's a good deal and works well and a gallon would be a lifetime supply for home use!