lostinthe202

Do some searches, there a lots of threads with people arguing over which fluid is best.

OK, thanks. Usually a big nut like that, I do as Gloyale suggested and just get it tight. But when I took it off, it was staked but it took almost no effort to get it off so I thought it might be some kind of preload thing. I wonder if it being loose contributed to the bearing failure...

Bumpity Bump, Would LOVE to button this up tomorrow! Thanks!!! Will-

Awesome, thanks! Will-

Title says it all, for a '96 OBW My FSM is not complete Thanks! Will-

Got it, the part number is 806255100

+1, I've been using 20w50 in the summer months and 10w40 every other time of year and never noticed a difference in mileage. I also really only do highway miles. I live so far from everything, that if I'm going anywhere, I'm driving 50mph at least.

Mostly it's when I'm parallel parking, it kept me from being able to roll back into the spot under certain conditions. For hill starts, it's was a fairly minor annoyance. When I hill start, my body instinctively leans forward a bit knowing that I'm going to drop back a tad before I start. So with the hill holder that sensation wasn't there, yet I was still trying to compensate for it. Kind of like when you're the passenger and you expect the driver to do something (slow down, speed up, whatever) and you compensate for it but they don't do what you expect.

I've read a lot on this forum about plugs (and wires). The EJ motors are apparently pretty sensitive to which brand of plugs are used and the consensus seems to be dealer wires and NGK plugs. Personally, I've always used whatever was cheapest at the auto store in every car I've had including my '96 OBW. After I read all the info here about people have misfire codes, I was tempted to change, but I figured by then they were already 40k miles old, so I'd run them until the car started stumbling off the line like I always do. The plugs that were in the car when I bought it (at 120k) started causing stumble at starts and when I pulled them out they had no electrode left and a gap of like .2 but I never got any codes so I figure my ecu isn't too picky.

Drove me nuts too, I disconnected it and put a spring from the bracket to the clutch fork.

yuk but then I'm hardly an objective voice, I still think my '96 OBW looks like a basket ball shoe

awesome! I pulled the old bearing off about an hour ago and I'm all ready for the new one. ...... I too now know it from experience Luckily I found all three without much trouble. Also, do you know the torque for that bolt in back? I was under the impression that is was supposed to be a lot. But when I unstaked the nut, it came right off with hardly any effort.... Thanks! Will-

Thanks for the schematic John, it would appear that #3 is the one I'm after, but they don't list any info for it, what gives? In the "next illustration" it's listed as #4 with a part number so maybe that's it? Thanks! Will-

'96 OBW 200k So been hearing some bearing noise for awhile. Finally starting hearing baaaad bearing noise so I took it off the road until I had time to pull the trans and have a looksie. I thought (was hoping) it was just in the input bearing as it had a bit of play when I did the clutch at around 180k, but when I got into it, seems the input bearing is OK (or at least not as bad as I thought) but the big bearing in back has gone to better life. I knew something wasn't good when I pulled the center diff off and I pulled chunks of bearing retainer out. Anyway, this is the bad bearing, does anyone know the bearing number or the part number? I'm hoping they'll have it in stock or can get it from the warehouse instead of buying it online and waiting for shipping. The guy at my local dealer is kind of wank and won't give you the time of day if you're not a mopar guy so I'd like to go in there with the number if possible. Thanks!! Will-

Or since the old cable is, well old, replace with new and oil the old once uninstalled and keep that as a spare.

Yeah, I was thinking about the "sun burn" method too, Thanks! Will-

OK, total camber dunce here, negative camber would be bottom out top in? I have this magnetic angle gauge here, I was going place it on the known side, then set the other side to match. I never spend anymore on tires then I have to, really isn't any need since this thing spends 99% of it's time driving up and down the highway. Thanks! Will-

Alright, thanks for the answer

I'm going to have the alignment checked, but I still want to know if the setting is the same or mirror image from side to side or if they are not related. thanks Will-

No not replacing the struts, I read thread after thread about pulling the trans and it seemed like the majority pulled the strut bolts for easy removal of the axles.

'96 OBW So I pulled the trans out of my outback today. I was just about to mark the camber bolt when my cell rang. I got distracted by the call and when I hung up I put the wrench on the nut and before I realized my mistake I had removed the bolt without even so much as a looksie at the alignment marks. My question is, Can I set it to what the driver's side is set to? Mirror image? Or am I stuck paying for an alignment? Thanks! Will-

All those wasted years of French!!!

Does it make any noise to accompany the extra effort? If so, it could be the fork pivot is dried out and has split and is gouging the pivot ball. Replace the cable first, but if it's still tough that may be why. Good luck! Will-

everyone's a critic....hehe

Excellent, thanks Gloyale