lostinthe202

Yeah let me know, thanks. I can only hope for 48mpg. Since I'll considerably higher in the air then a jetta I doubt I'll get it, but if I can manage 40mpg I'll be happy. The difference in diesel around here isn't quite the same as there, but it's still higher that I will probably end up paying more for fuel if I run straight diesel. but I've got a plan for that too....

I have read it on here lots as well and I have a particular interest as I have a '96 2.2L. There is an endwrench article that mentions that in '97 the 2.2 went interference and I think it used to be mentioned on cars101.com, but when I looked I wasn't able to find either. I know it's out there though!

Fantastic! I'll PM you about that. Yeah I've been wrassling with this. I want the low reduction which means a 3.9. Also I've been using this calculator http://www.scirocco.org/gears/ which lets you plug tire/wheel size and gear ratios to give you speed or rpm depending on which you supply. So according to the cal. with the same tires, in my case 195/65-r14 which is what came on the car, with a 3.9 setup that has a .780 ratio for 5th has the engine spinning at 2984 while a 3.7 setup that has a .871 5th has the engine at 3162rpm so 2984 is probably a bit higher then I want to be spinning that motor, I think I'd be happier around 2000 rpm, but I haven't played with tire size yet to get something comfortable. So what's your mom's TDI redline at? This motor I've got is no latter then a '98 so they might be different, but I'd still like to know. Will-

'96 is still non-interference in the 2.2, but interference in the 2.5

This is what I was thinking. You mention using a drill and tap, is something broken off in the other mounting hole or is it just missing the bolt/stud? If it's missing, then just get another one, I'm sure someone on here knows the thread pitch and diameter, then you can order one from mcmaster.com If it's broken off you could try to drill with the appropriate tap drill size of the existing threads, pick out whatever you can with a dental pick type tool, then chase the threads with the appropriate tap. Good Luck! Will-

Drove to work. They were definitely quieter, but still clicking.

So after doing the numbers, The rough height center crank to bottom of the oilpan for the VW - 7.75" ...to top of vw - 21" ...to bottom of oilpan of EA82T - 9.75" ...to top of EA82T - 13.5" So yes the VW engine is considerably taller, but we knew that already. The overall height of the EA motor is 23.25" so to get the VW motor to have the same vertical height I'll need to tilt around 40* If I were to do no lift. There's a little fudge in those numbers since the oilpan is curved, I could probably get away with less then 40*, but you get the idea. I'm going to post over at TDIClub to see if anyone knows the max tilt I can use with the current pump and oil pan. If I can get at least 30*, I'll probably run the engine with it's current setup and make up the difference in body lift or a bulge in the hood. I don't want to go too high though as this isn't going to be a strictly offroad rig. more when I got more! Will-

No Hijack at all. I always run the car until the fans come on before I drain the oil, I did this time too, I assumed Nipper assumed that I had done that and that he was talking about using the warm oil in addition to warming the engine. If they don't quiet down I'll change them unless they are hideously expensive, doesn't seem like there is much to the job.

Yeah, this engine gets oil hungry after 3000 miles. I am currently on a 5000 mile or so schedule (the owners manual recommends 7500 miles!!) and I have been thinking of switching to three but, with amount of miles I put on this car, I already feel like I'm changing the oil every few weeks. But one's gotta do what one's gotta do if one wants to keep the same engine for another 100k. +1 on that. If after 196k the only non-routine maintenance thing to go wrong is noisy lifters (OK since 120k when I bought the car) then I can live with that! It's almost enough to make me forget I'm driving a car that looks like a basketball shoe!

Dang, guess I should've checked this thread again before doing it. I figured since it's going to be cold every morning, it would either work cold or it wasn't going to work at all. It was still ticking after I did the oil change. I let it idle for 20 min. or so then shut it off. Guess I'll see what it sounds like when I get to work tomorrow

OK, so last nights movie was waaay worth the lost work. We saw Slumdog Millionaire and I highly recommend it. Anyway... You mean like the PO did... So I got the engine out. This baby has definitely seen some heat. I'd be surprised if the HG's are good. It has a new rad (I've been told they're prone to lamination) and it was filled with mostly water. But luckily, I don't give damn, 'cause I got other plans!! EA82T anyone?.... So I did some measuring of middle of crank to top and bottom of both engines. I haven't crunched the numbers yet. Length wise I'd say I'm ok, but, as baccaruda and others have pointed out, height is the real issue. I have been looking into the 50* tilt option of the vanagons. Supposedly it involves a different oil-pan and injection pump. The oil pan I can make. The pump, well lets just say I'd rather not swap if I don't have to. Well that's it for tonight, tomorrow I'll put all the numbers together and see where I stand. Will

Alright, I'll give the 5w30 a whack. Gary, Yes the oil pump screws were checked at around 165k when I did the "nose job" As for what kind of lifters it's got, I've got no idea. I assumed HLA because of the tendency of the noise to come and go. Evo, That's the thing. I've had this happen before, few times in fact, but it always went away. This time it's been three days and it's still sounds like I'm running a sweatshop under my hood. I'll post back tomorrow after I've changed the oil and driven to work. Thanks! Will-

'96 OBW, 2.2, 5spd, 196k The other morning it was 2* out, coldest on record around here since 1995! When I started my car it sounded like a sewing machine. It's done this before when it was low on oil and occasionally when it's below 15* or so. Can cold affect the HLAs or is it just a coincidence? Even after warming up for several minutes and then an hour or so of driving it never went away. Now it's been about 3 days and I'm thinking I should address it. I've got 10w40 in there now which is only a couple of weeks old (and new filter) so I figured to try some 5w30 and see if that clears it up. Should I try seafoam? Should I skip the oil change method all together and just dig in? Too much work to do and not enough time!! Thanks, Will-

Imdew's item turns out not to be what you're after, check the classifieds here on the board, or post in the wanted section. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=12 Good Luck! Will

Today wasn't as productive as I was hoping for, had to clear up some items on the "honey-do" list. But I did get a bit done. I fired up the ol' jubilee and pushed the GL10 (roasted clutch, won't drive) into the bay where I'll be doing the work... Then plopped the engine down on some casters and pushed it into the shop... The next few hours were filled with firewood, fence repair and teaching my brother-in-law to drive a stick (eek!) Then I retired to the office with a beer and a print-out of the TDI cad drawing I found and drew up a template.... On Wednesday (if I go into work, the inauguration has DC tied up in knots) I'll cut the above out of a piece of whatever I have laying around just to see if it's the correct drawing. I could do it the hard way, or I could use our metal xerox machine.... Tomorrow will be engine pull day, I promise!! Off to the movies Will-

Thanks for the info you two. Armed with information!!!

Weellll, the thing is, This was an auto car that had a push-button put in it. I don't know what the push-button is out of. The rear diff is still a 3.7 but I have no idea what the front is.

I'm going to look at a 5spd d/r trans latter this week and I remember reading once upon a time that sometimes auto dismantlers will remove the stub axle with the axles instead of dealing with the drive pin. Do the stub axles just pop out/in? new seal, new retaining clip? If I get there and find them missing could I (after talking them down on the price:brow:) use the stub axles from the push-button trans that is currently in my GL10? Thanks!! Will-

Whoora!! Well, I had a pretty frustrating day that ended well. I hit another JY looking for several stuffs, not the least of which is a 5spd 3.9 d/r and rear diff. I found only two ea subies. One had 347,000 on the odometer (I look forward to that number!) and a pushbutton trans. It did have a 3.9 diff but with that many miles on it, I wasn't willing to pay the 70 bucks they wanted for it only to hear it whine. The other subie I found had chips taken out of the case around the rear axles. I guess either someone didn't know how to remove them or the PO of the car was trying to drive over parking blocks!! It was a 3.7 so it wouldn't have worked anyways. So the subie stuff was a bust and I moved on to the VW side of things. I was hoping to find a busted trans out of something to use to get the VW side of the adapter plate. I did find a trans that someone had already started to disassemble, but since I had no idea how those things come apart I couldn't get the cases split and I was NOT paying 90 bucks for something I was going to use once. Didn't find any turbo units either. So I left the yard empty handed BUT! after getting home and spending an hour playing the google-random-association-click game, I found a pdf cad drawing of a tdi motor so next week when I get into work I'll laser out a template and see if I have the right drawing. I also located a 3.9 diff (thanks bratman18 !!) so that will be on it's way next week. I do have a lead on two trans that are not too far away from me. The pull-a-part JY's are a better deal at 90 bucks no matter what condition or miles, but one is $200, 130k and they will include the shifters and console parts so I can live with that. The only catch is that they are only open on weekdays so I have to take a half day to go get it, grrrrr. Well that's all for today. Tomorrow I'll pull the motor out of the GL10 and dangle the TDI in the bay and see what's what. Will

Yeah, TDI club is a great resource. I've got a thread going over there too for the VW side of the project. I'm really not very knowledgeable about VW stuff so it's HUGE help. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=236135

Sooooo through a no fault of my own, I'm the proud new owner of 2 VW TDI motors. The motors are new in that they have never been run. They were purchased from VW new but never saw their new home but instead sat in storage since purchased somewhere between 1998-2001. I don't really have much interest in VW cars, not really my aesthetic. What I do like however is subarus, older ones in particular. I drive a '96 OBW as my DD and I love the thing in terms of reliability and even mpg (I squeeze 30mpg average out of that puppy), but in the "looks" department I kind of feel like I'm driving a high-top basket ball shoe. I've also got pleeeeenty of room (30 acres) to store stuff like, oh I don't know, a fry-oil refining operation so with the appearance of these motors I got to thinking... I have done a TON of reading and searching on the topic and there are definitely some hurdles to overcome. But as the saying goes, given enough time and money anything is possible. Time I've got (well sort of), money I don't got, but really the expensive part is behind me and that is the motors (you seen what those bad boys are fetching on feebay??). Also, I happen to be a machinist with access to CNC mills, lathes, welders, a laser cutter, and soon a wire EDM (muuuuaaahaaaaaaaa!!!!). So any fabrication needs will be met. I figure I can relocate just about anything that needs relocating, it's just a matter of figuring out where to put it. This is my build thread. I'll keep it updated as I progress through the project with pics when applicable. So without further adieu.... Here's the vehicle. One 1988 GL-10 purchased cheap with a blown clutch. This car was purchased by the PO from the original owner (his ex-girlfriend's parents) and subsequently used and abused as a, "get trashed and drive through the woods shooting at stuff" rig, see exhibit A... . He yanked the auto and stuck in a push-button out of I don't know what. The interior is salvageable, just a little dirty, though it is missing some of the console pieces. It's currently sitting on 14" steel pugs hidden behind some legacy hub caps (up for grabs if anyone wants 'em). I don't know what I'll do for wheels. I'm still sorting out the motor's power so once I know that I'll know what size of wheels I'll be after. I'm on the hunt for a 5spd D/R with a 3.9 diff which has the closest matching gear ratios (with a d/r option) in subie trans that I can find to the various VW trans that came with diesel engines. Whatever difference there is in torque I'm going to have to make up with larger tires. Hope the axles can take it! I very well may need to have a "power hump" in the hood, I haven't gotten that far with measurements so I don't really know, but if I do, I thought maybe of incorporating an intercooler into that hump (it all makes sense in my head, trust me...). But I'm not breaking out the plasma cutter until I know my apples from my oranges. Here's the engine. I whipped up a stand for it last night and brought it home. I've got some locking casters for it and, once I locate my trans, I'll be putting a cross-member on the stand to hold the trans and give the assembly some more stability. I plan on mating the trans and motor on the stand so I can get a good look at everything including the starter engagement to make sure I'm all good. I also want to get the motor running on the stand to make sure I don't need to reseal anything (it has been sitting for many years so who knows...) At the very least, I'm going to open up the injection pump and reseal it and make sure things look OK in there. A buddy of mine is stuffing a Cummins 4BT into his Land Cruiser and when, after some unsuccessful attempts to start the motor, he rebuilt his injection pump this is what he found... http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/driftingouttosea/injection%20pump/ I get Mon and Tue off, one for MLK day and one for the inauguration ( I work in DC which is going to be a real barrel of monkeys) so my plans for this weekend are to hit the JY and look for my Trans and rear diff., then pull the motor out of the GL10 and take some measurements of how things are looking space-wise. If I get my trans, I'll get started on my adapter next week. I have been on the hunt for a roasted, toasted trans to cut up so I could jig it up in the mill and get my points for an adapter. But I haven't had any luck with that. Luckily, one of the other toys we've got kicking around the ol' shop is one of these.... http://www.faro.com/content.aspx?ct=di&content=pro&item=2 ...I don't know how to use it, but there's only one way to learn eh? I figure I'll give it a whirl and cut out a template to try and see if I have it right. OK, that's all for now. I'll write more when I have more! Will-

Yeah, those "incomprehensible, truck-ish 4WD selectors" are a real bear to figure out, I mean hi AND low??? Who can remember all that?

Wow, now that will make you feel old eh? (hehe) Since your disty is new then, like the others have said, fuel is the likely culprit. Good Luck, I hope you figure it out, it's a nice looking car!! Will-

So what is the purpose of the "explosion?"

I miss being able to "tab" the start of a new paragraph.