lostinthe202

I didn't think vacuum since I was pulling the trans and didn't mess with any of the lines, but worth a check. This is interesting, hadn't considered that at all. I'm using the neutral switch that came on the replacement trans, but I still have the original so may swap that out and see what happens. Interesting. When I was taking everything apart, the hose clamp for the intake boot on the throttle body was completely loose. There were cracks on one of the hoses for the PCV system that I mentioned earlier (the one I couldn't find) and a missing clamp on another. I'm veering away from coincidental problems as it ran beautifully before I took it apart. Not to say those can't happen, but want to eliminate "operator error" first. I've been driving it and it doesn't stall anymore, but the idle will still be sporadically rough and the engine check light hasn't gone away. Fairtax, I've checked over all the connections and vacuum lines and everything seems to be in order. I'll try out your ECU reset and see if that does it. Thanks everybody! Will-

2000 Legacy L, 5MT ~215k I recently changed the manual trans and took it for it's first test-drive yesterday. I've got an engine check light. I'm trying to locate a code reader to find out the code, but in the meantime, lets have some fun. It ran fine before I took it apart. After reassembly, it starts fine, runs fine through warm-up. Once it's warm, the idle is rough, sometimes stalls, usually doesn't, but it only occasionally idles smooth. I'm thinking that it has to be something I overlooked, screwed up, or otherwise messed up during the trans install since it ran fine before I took it apart. Mass Airflow? Other ideas? Give me things to poke over the weekend and I will! Thanks!!

Found it. It was hiding amongst the power steering hoses. It's about the same diameter and was nestled in with them such that I couldn't see the end. There's my idiot move of the week out of the way, thanks all!!

Yeah, thanks for the pic, that's basically what I thought I remembered it looking like. I must have it buried somewhere 'cause I know I didn't take it off the car, no reason to. I just can't find the blasted thing. I figured if I knew where the other end was supposed to be, I could try and find it by looking for the source. I tried Oppossed forces and there is one pic that indicates that it's a hose on the intake manifold on the passenger's side and that they're all tied to the PCV. I won't get to the car until tomorrow AM unfortunately. Here's the pic

First, thanks for the responses Sorry, forgot the year/model, was typing too fast 2000 legacy L I'll post a pick showing more of the engine bay this evening, thanks for the help!

Hi everybody! I'm just finishing up replacing the manual trans in my legacy and I've got this hose barb on the airbox that is looking pretty lonely. I can't find the mate for it anywhere. This was at the end of the day, so my next step is to pull the air box and look for it, but it would help if I knew where the other end went. Anyone recognize it? Thanks! http://s141.photobucket.com/user/driftingouttosea/media/Air%20Box%20Outlet_zpsicsp7h4g.jpg.html"

Right, forgot about the gear ratio thing. This is just a daily driver, so not too concerned with performance. What about Impreza stuff from the same year range? I remember it all have the same bolt/pin pattern, but it's been awhile, more reading must be done. Thanks for the info

I'm looking for a good used manual trans for my 2000 Legacy, what's the newest year that is plug-n-play? If you're curious about the problem, details can be found here, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/157471-3revervse-shift-fork/ Thanks! Will-

Cool, it's nice to be on the other side of school huh? I've got two more GE classes to take and then I'll have a couple of AS degrees, can't wait to wipe school off my shoe if you can smell what I'm typing... Not that my school experience was bad, just having to work and fit school in and make all the bills is not a fun experience these days. How badly did you get snow-slammed? Yeah, the only reason I'm considering cracking into this trans is that I know it's history, my folks bought the car new and I know their driving style so it was probably bad luck that the 3rd/reverse shift selector went bad (if that's what it is) but the rest of it is probably in good shape. Meaning, I'm starting with a (somewhat) known quantity. That said, I may be crazy for digging into it and just better off getting a used unit. I'm broke from school and life in the SF Bay Area, so just trying to maximize my dollar.

Fairtax, how's ya been? Yeah, I was looking at my pics from the last time I cracked one of these open and I can't remember what's what as far as the gears. I'm also tempted to get a used one and preemptively change that double roller bearing, that might be the best/cheapest/time-cost effective course of action

Yeah, I'm looking at some used units, but I'm hesitant since none of the ones I can find that are under $500 have any kind of warranty more than 30 days nor can the sellers give me any kind assurance that they are in good shape. Both money and time are really tight for me now so the last thing I want is to drop $500+ on a trans, take the time to put it in only to find out the thing has some problem of it's own and has to be pulled out, returned, etc. etc. I can get one for $99 + $30 core charge from the local pick-n-pull, with a 30 day exchange, but again, condition completely unknown and I really want to avoid doing this job twice. I remember the trans apart wasn't all that bad of a job, so figured I'd research just changing the offending parts. Of course it's possible I'd pull the trans apart and find other problems, but I know the rear bearing on the input shaft has been replaced, and aside from 3rd/reverse, everything else is quiet and shifts smoothly

2000 Subaru Legacy, 220xxx miles, 5MT (the original with the double roller bearing replaced at around 200k) Heeeelllloooo USMB! It's been awhile, I lost 3rd and reverse last night, that is, I know exactly where they are, they just don't work. Can't shift into 3rd at all, I can get into reverse, but the car doesn't move. When shifted into first, there's a rattling sound that comes and goes. Some background: This car is a hand-me-down from my parents. They had the double roller bearing at the back of the input shaft go bad and had that replaced about 20k miles ago. Since the repair they noticed that it was becoming more difficult to shift into reverse, no idea if the repair job and subsequent shifting problems are related. After a few months (not sure how many miles, but not more than about 5-10k) getting into reverse was not possible, even with double clutching or jogging the trans in another gear, unless the trans was shifted into third first, then it would pop right in. Last night there was a "clunk," the car stalled and upon restart, reverse was gone and third was inaccessible and when shifted into first, there's a rattling sound of something being kicked around by the spinning shaft. I'm thinking that a shift-fork broke and the piece is rattling around in there. I'm no automotive genius, but I'm not afraid of projects either. I've changed the double roller bearing before using the tutorial below posted by Gloyale several years ago, but I've never messed with the gear clusters. Question 1: Does this sound like a broken shift fork? Question 2: If so, can the fork be changed without having to readjust the front dif? Question 3: Is a press necessary, or can the hammer/PVC combo be used? Question 4: Any other pitfalls to look out for? As always, thanks! Will- Tutorial, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/117820-easy-transmission-front-seal-replacement/

I did the clutch in my '99 forester not all that long ago and went the route of pulling the trans, without actually pulling the trans. That is, I went through all the steps, but instead of actually droping it, I did as Fairtax suggests and suspended it with some tiedowns which helped a lot and made things go back together much easier, Pulling the front axles off is really not that bad since you don't need to pull them out of the hub, just pull off the steering arm and the bolts for the strut and the knuckle will swivel far enough let the axles off the trans. Subaru suggests marking the position of the top strut bolt as this is the adjustment for the camber of the wheel. Clean the bolt head and the strut mount with brake cleaner then use a thin line of nail polish. Or just match up the oxidation of the knuckle and the strut (you'll see what I'm talking about when you have it apart) and you'll be fine

Hmm... The patina on the knuckle that I pulled from the car seems legit for the age/mileage so I'm sure that it's original. I actually did consider taking the bolts with me, but they were in worse shape than the ones I had at home so, again thinking they were the same, I didn't take them with me. I think I'll go back to the yard and pay the two bucks to retrieve the bolt, I'd really like to see that knuckle swivel around like all the other Sub knuckles I've dealt with have.

Gary, Thanks for the info on how the ABS works, that's comforting. As for the sensor, you've got it backwards, the Forester sensor is larger in diameter than the Legacy knuckle would allow, so I spliced in the Legacy sensor. If it were the other way around I would definitely have shimmed it to fit. Though I would have needed a longer bolt as the flange on the Forester sensor was about 2mm thicker than the Legacy sensor.

'99 Forester I replaced the passenger's steering knuckle with a JY unit with one from a '95 Legacy. The knuckle fit fine in every respect except that the camber bolt was problematic (posted in a different thread) and the ABS sensor from my Forester is too big in diameter to fit into the bore on the Legacy knuckle. At first I thought I was fortunate in that I clipped the wire for the Legacy sensor (I know, bad JY form I try not to clip wires when I don't need to, but I was in a time crunch) and so the sensor was still on the knuckle, so I just soldered it into the wiring. I took my test drive, everything went fine, but I got to thinking that I don't really know how those sensors come into play in the system. I understand that they are basically a magnet that sends a pulse every time the wheel goes around so that the ABS knows that the wheel is still turning and that if that one stops then the manifold eases the brake pressure to that sensor. My question is, say my solder joint goes bad, gets ripped, gets torn etc and the connection fails. What happens? Is it just that the light will come on? Further, the two sensors have different part numbers, does this mean that they have different resistance/magnet/electrical values of some sort that would damage the computer? Probably overreacting, but I was just curious. Thanks! Will-

Well, I'm not sure about requirements having never done this before. The window was closed when we began the removal, but once we removed all the hardware securing the window track from the door panel, it seemed that we could move it up and down and around quite a bit so I'm thinking it might not matter. Though if it's all the way down I could see that as being a pain in the arse. Though, there are large gaps in the door panel and you very well might be able to get at the roller in question without removing the window from the door. Once you remove the door panel and take off the plastic you'll see what I'm talking about. Wish I could help more, good luck! Will-

So I needed a new steering knuckle for my '99 Forester. Thinking that anything from the 90's that had ABS with the tone-ring on the hub would work, I picked one off of a '95 legacy today at the pull yard. It fits in the car, in fact it's in there now, but two things are different: 1st is the ABS sensor is smaller in diameter than the Forester. Luckily, I had clipped the wires for the sensor at the yard so I have it and I'll just solder it into place. 2nd, is that the eccentric bolt for the camber seems to have been larger on the '95. Thinking the hardware was the same I didn't bother taking the camber bolt from the yard. My bolt fits, but you can't really move the knuckle around with it. You can spin 360 degrees on the bolt and only encounter light resistance that doesn't change the camber at all. The eccentric measures at 16.3mm and the bolt shoulder is 13.88 (so 14mm thread) I'm sure the threads are probably the same on both bolts, but does anyone happen to have a bolt from an late 90's Legacy they could measure? The difference couldn't be much, maybe the hole on this thing is just wanged out a little? Anyone else encounter this?

Found a '98 Impreza,. We ended up just pulling the window and got it for $27 which is a better price than any I had found online so we were pretty happy. Getting it out was a bit of a pia though and I'm not looking forward to getting it back in without damaging anything. Thanks for the help!

Thanks fellas, Yes rxleone, that's the option we're leaning towards, unless like I say we get lucky and the door is a color match. It's a teenager's car and as such it was "driven by feel" enough that a different fade on the paint won't make any more difference then a mosquito biting a blood donor.

How do you get car-part.com to show you which years will work? I use that site all the time, and I see that they show different year cars and I know that they have an interchange database, but I can never seem to get it to display and the listing is always something like, "impreza, front door, green" or whatever, not much detail about the car. I tried calling two places to find out what other years would work, still hoping not to ship a door or pay the "they-pull" price and got various responses of "my computer tells what will work." Is there a menu or option or something that you're using to determine this? I see windows online for a decent price, certainly close enough to $50, but they live in a badish neighborhood and the longer the car has no window, the more it presents itself as an easy joyride so we'd like to go pick something up. We probably will install the junkyard window in the car, even if we end up with a door. Thanks Gary! Will-

The teenagers of a friend got their '97 4door impreza wagon busted into. Passenger's side front window, electric. Of course being teenagers, insurance is just liability so no help there. Pricing replacement glass from just about anywhere is more than the $50 we can get an entire door foor from a junkyard and either get lucky with color, have them not care because they are teenagers, or pull the glass out of the donor door and replace. Question is, will the front door from any 4 door impreza work or does it have to be a 4 door wagon as well? Thanks!!

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Awesome, thanks! Yes the west is treating us right. Though the east beckons. In fact we'll be in WV for a wedding in late July. I'm not sure of the exact location yet, but somewhere near the Canaan Valley. Don't know if you're in the hood, but maybe we could meet up for a "how do ya do"

What's with this? Do mean that there is some damage that I should be aware of that could potentially happen to the brake caliper brackets?