lostinthe202

I believe the non-interference interval is 60k (up to '96 2.2) and the interference is 100k.

Oops! Yeah, I meant on 81 and 82 cars. Thanks Jason! Will-

Is the starter located in the same place on all the EA cars? Thanks! Will-

Wow, that car gets around. Is that GoldieOldie (is that his name?) posting or his brother? I like the kid who said it looked like the first soob to hit US soil. Must be a zit-faced teen eh?

Ooooo a 2.2 with only 38k... wish I could find one of those:brow: I agree with the others, the dealer is just as much of a crap shoot as buying from the public. More so even if like Gary said they swallow the paper work to hide the maintenance history. If your car is running fine now and you're not in a hurry, just keep looking at Craig's List or the paper or wherever regularly and you will find one that has been well maintained with a documented service history, not that there should be much on a car only a few years old. You might also consider looking to the south of you. With a car that new, you could drive it home without worrying about it breaking down and you could get something with that many less Minnesota winters on it. Just a thought. Good Luck! Will-

Wow, that is really disturbing. Anything to save a buck so they can pass it on to someone else...

Ooooo, I like that Skip... I was thinking of cutting something out on the laser, but that polycarb thing could be cool. I've got this program called that generates code for all kinds of different fonts, really easy to use. Let me know if you want a copy It's a freeware deal and is small enough to email. It's a little weird to get used to but once you do it's got it's uses. Hmmm..... Well, I need to address the running issues first, but I'll get around to this suff soon enough. Thanks for ideas everyone! Will-

Dang, I looked but I totally missed that, thanks!

No apologies necessary Skip, you weren't hijacking, you were answering my question! And for the record, I did not mean Peuguot center caps, I meant Subaru ones of course! Yes, the black look is quite nice, hmm.....

ah ha! thanks for the info. Do they make center caps for them?

Yeah, I think you're right, I thought they looked familiar. The wheels are 14's. They say "Michelin" on them and "Fab-France" and a bunch of numbers. Is "pug" short for Peugeot? Skip - I'll be sending you an email about the GL-10 shell, I could def. use a set of spare parts. Will-

Thanks Gary, that first link was the one I was looking for. I actually have that link saved on my computer, but when I tried it it didn't lead anywhere. I just saved a "hard copy". And thanks to McBrat and your cohorts for keeping this resource up for shmoes like me! Will-

Thanks, Yeah, I like the height looks-wise with the tires that are on it. I don't know if the wheels are subaru, I haven't looked closely for a stamp, but the hub-caps are. I don't care for those, don't care for hubcaps in general. I think I'll paint the wheels or maybe powder coat them. I've got this old oven and I've been itching to try out those home powder coat kits. Maybe i'll throw one in and see how it turns out.

Anyone have a link to a gear ratio chart for the 80's? I've been searching, but every link I come across is defunct. Thanks! Will-

Sorry for the big pics, I didn't notice the size was set to large. They should be smaller now. The tires are 195/65/R14 and don't have any brand name, at least that I recognize. They just say "high traction" and steel radial. One of them is flat and the others are pretty much worn out. He bought a new one and mounted it on a fifth wheel in that's in the trunk. I don't know what the wheels are (I'm not really familiar with Old Gen wheel terminology) but tomorrow if I remember I'll snap a pic and ya'll can tell me. They actually wouldn't look bad painted white or black if some kind of center cap could be had for them. I'm not sure if it does. I didn't have time this afternoon to really poke around before I had to split. The PO said he lifted the back and put "hard" suspension in which would suggest that maybe the air system is no longer intact. This is my first experience with an ea82 let alone a GL-10 so I really don't know what should or shouldn't be there. I'll be PM'ing you with a list of parts to toss in the back of Oh Bee once I do a little more research, hopefully help towards your acquisition of WildWagonz's sweet ride:) hehehe, yeah this thing is filled with cigarette butts and bottle caps. I'm going to have to vacuum this thing out and fabreeze the snot out of it All I saw was that it is a 3.7, I didn't see any LSD, but I don't think I scrapped all the gunk off the sticker. The PO said something about swapping diffs when he swapped trans. I asked if he did that to match the diffs and he gave me a blank stare, maybe someone was helping him? hopefully... Actually all it needed was a jump and it purred like a kitten.... OK a kitten with a deviated septum, but it seemed to run pretty good. When he said he burned the clutch, I assumed that it had no grab left, but when I tried to shift into gear it wouldn't even go with the engine running so maybe the f'd up the PP or the fork? I'll get into it this weekend and try and find out what's up. I wouldn't know, again this is my first ea82. I haven't decided if I'll keep the A/C or not. I almost never use it in my OBW except occasionally if I"m having a hard time with defrosting. I figure if it works it stays. If it doesn't work, I'll yank the fixin's and stick in on a shelf. My plans for it are to clean it up and drive it while I do some swaparoos with my OBW (my engine/drivetrain into another, better condition OBW body). Once that's out of the way, I'm going to yank the motor and try and shoehorn in a VW diesel engine. The measurements look pretty good, but we'll see. If that doesn't work (and I'll be doing this body stuff either way) I'll reseal the turbo and put it back in, complete the lift, build a roof rack and a bumper and make it a camper. I'll start another thread in the appropriate section when the time comes. In the meantime, I need to get my hands on a trashed trans or maybe just the two halfs of a trans case so I can get my measurements for an adapter plate. Anyone got one laying around? (I'll post about that in the proper section too, I just figured this was easy advertising:) ) Will-

Cruising CL, I came across an '88 GL-10 with a burnt clutch. Picked it up cheap and dragged it home. The body is in pretty good shape. It's got some bubbles on the left rear quarter panel and a couple of quarter sized spots above the wheel wells, but the underside looks pretty good. This is my first turbo, I guess I'll have to drive it around for awhile to see what it's like before I rip the car apart. It apparently started out life as an automatic. The PO put a push-button 5spd in and rebuilt the motor. He said the thing really hauled rump roast before he burned up the clutch hauling rump roast. Good thing I don't really care about the condition of the motor. Hopefully the trans didn't take too much of a beating. But I will probably be going for a D/R anyway so meh... Here's some pics, Is this scoop on backwards or is it supposed to be that way? I drove a Chevy Blazer with one of these. Makes you feel like you're on the set of battlestar galactica or something... Why yes, I always keep my empty beer bottles with my tire pump... don't you? Let's take a peek under ye 'ol seat cover... The interior is really dirty, muddy mostly, but it is in pretty good shape. None of the seats are ripped or too badly stained. The guy who had it basically used it as something to drive drunk through the woods with. I mean come on, we should all have such a vehicle, no? Anyway, I'm happy my search for the donor vehicle is over and I can't wait to get started! Will-

haha, good choice, test lights have nifty features like alligator clips and pointy ends. I used a "dummy" light from a honda motorcycle for years, but once I got the pointy ended test light I was a convert.

If you just can't wait to get on it, or you're really really cheap (test lights only cost a few bucks), and you have a spare blinker, marker, or tail-light and some wire hanging around, just solder a wire onto each lead, leave the other end bare and voila, test light!

I think what Carfreak85 meant is that you've got two sets of plugs on each side from your original 4 beam setup, one set that works the low, one the high. So what you need to do is identify which wire going to the high-beam plug supplies the power with a multimeter or a test light or whatever, and pull the connector out of the plug housing. Usually this can be done by sticking something into the plug housing on the headlight side with something thin like the fingernail cleaner of a nail clipper or the awl on a swiss army knife to bend down the locking tab. Here's a pic, it's not the same style of spade connector, but you should get the idea (sorry about the weird font, I don't know what's going on there...) Then once you have that out, figure out which is the high-beam tang on your round light and insert this into that socket and then let there be light! Good Luck, and yes I have to agree with others, that is one fine looking setup and one fine looking bumper! Will-

Does that mean it got rear ended twice or it rear ended another vehicle? I suppose if there aren't any weird noises while driving and if the tire wear looks even and the rear hatch has no problem opening and closing (did you check for rust on the handle?) then it's not that big a deal eh? Does that include oil changes? If so, were they going by the 7500 miles recommended in the service manual or more frequent? So no help on the 120k T-belt change. Good Luck! Will-

There's no edit in off-topic. So when you stick your foot in your mouth you can't take it back. So remember to preview before you post! Dude... looking in your direction...hehehe....

Yeah, that shined up real nice, I like the green ones. How long has it been sitting there? Maybe if it's been there awhile offer him $3000 and when he balks, say thanks but no thanks then go back in a week and try again. There are others on this board more dealer savvy then me, so you may hear different. Good Luck! Will-

Define "tight" after I changed the clutch is was smooth as butter, better then a hydro clutch. There should be 1/8 inch of play at the fork, 1" of fork travel measured from the tip of the fork, and 3/8 of pedal play.

Nice pick, that's my DD right now. I bought it with 120k 3 years ago and I've put 74,000 mostly trouble free miles on it since. The only work I had to do on it outside regular maintenance is that the clutch fork split at the pivot at 189k miles. The clutch was actually still fine with no slip, but I did the clutch anyway since didn't actually know what had gone wrong until I got in there. the belt interval for this car is 60k, so at 140k you've technically got another 40k miles, but I'd ask for any records to see if they changed the WP, pulleys, and tensioner. It's possible those were skipped. Since the interval is much shorter then the interference versions, that stuff has a chance of making the next interval, but it gives you more bargaining room, especially if they can't prove the 120k interval was done. Good Luck! Will-

Great, thanks for the info! Will-