lostinthe202

Lets start with: Car type Engine type Odometer reading

Not all, the two on my '96 OBW aren't. Is this a new thing? That thread chaser for 7 bucks looks like the most economical way of fixing this.

Have you tried calling a dealer and seeing if they have the thread size listed? I don't really understand what you would do with the dremel, but bolts don't make good taps. Taps are both made from a hard material (harder then bolts) and have threads that are "teeth" and will cut away and reform the threads in the bung. The die works the same way, just the inverse. Using a bolt to chase threads usually ends up with a stuck or broken bolt or even worse threads If a dealer isn't able to tell you definitively what the thread size is, then get a couple of guesses and order a bolt and nut from here - http://www.mcmaster.com You can also get a tap and die from them. They typically ship the same day you order and, depending on where you are, it will usually get to you within a day or two. I would be amazed if the threads in the bung were wiped out but the 02 sensor only had a couple of messed up threads. Chances are the bung threads just looked wiped out 'cause they are rusty or maybe have never-seize caked in them or something. This being a Subaru forum, you may have a tough time getting answer to this question:) Though, many cars have more then one 02 sensor, and those are likely the same thread so you maybe could compare. It is possible to weld cast, but it is more persnickety then other materials and you'd have a tough time doing it with your buddy's garage welder. A replacement header from a JY might be the ticket as it might be cheaper then buying a tap and die only to find out the threads are beyond repair. But a 2003 is a little new for the JY's so be prepared to search around awhile. Good luck.

I figured it was for a reason Originally, I wasn't considering actually altering anything back there, I was just hoping to swap some wires so that when I pressed the floor/defrost button, I got vent/defrost instead. Ah yes, I almost edited the post to address that Absolutely not, and I have both driver's and passenger's open whenever possible. I'm mostly talking about when it rains. When I had my little toyota pickup, I kept the windows open even in the rain since I didn't care much for the interior which was made out of vinyl and not prone to mold cultivation. But with the 'roo it's a different story. Non only do I not wish to grow mold, but with the windows and door locks being electrically activated, there's even more reason not to let water run down the door panels.

Welcome! Don't know if it will have what you are looking for, but at the bottom of this page under "related posts" is a link to a free FSM for 2000 legacy/outback. Good Luck! Will-

Great, thanks Ian for the description! I'll check it out and see if I can't figure something out. Will-

'96 OBW Seems like most (all?) Japanese cars have the same air vent scheme, ---> vent -> vent/floor -> floor -> floor/defrost -> defrost Maybe not always in that order, but always those options. I've never had a dash apart far enough to see how all the plumbing is put together, but I always assumed that these combinations were determined by how the plumbing was routed rather then some arbitrary choice by some engineer in times of yore with the Japanese's strong sense of tradition keeping it alive. What I would really like is a Vent/Defrost option. I like having air blowing over me while I'm driving, I always have. It must be the motorcycle rider in me or something. Man do I miss wind wings, wish they would bring those back. Anyway, if the vent controls are electronically operated (they are right?) would it be possible to switch some wires around and get some different combinations or is like a Y pipe where one route is closed as another opens? Whatcha think?

Just apply the loc-tite on the threads. If the bolt comes loose enough for the pulley to start moving, no amount of loc-tite on the shaft is going to stop it. The pulley is machines to a tight tolerance and fits on the crank shaft very snugly and can be hard enough to get off without added assistance.

That's a good point. As long as the DMV didn't balk at your title, and vin matches what's on the title, then you're golden.

I don't think you can match a particular engine or tranny to a specific car. I think what svxpert is referring to is that a vin will often indicate an engine size/type and tranny type. Try calling Subaru of America, they might be able to help you identify stuff.

Keep in mind that the 2.5 is an interference engine so you don't want to go spinning things under power if you're not sure the belt is lined up. Follow the steps in this article, http://endwrench.com/main.php?smPID=PHP::article_detail.php&&RECID=184

If you go to the 15" wheels, remember that your speedo won't be accurate anymore.

I had an '87 Volvo wagon awhile ago that had weird electrical problems. From a forum, I found out that Volvo's supplier of their wiring harnesses used wire with a bum insulation that broke down and caused all kinds of problems. I tried finding the bad portions of wire and eventually gave up and bought a sub-harness from a later year that was schematically the same but not made by the same company. I'm not suggesting that Subaru's wires are bunk, but could that be a course of action to replace a sub-harness? Of course I suggest this without actually knowing how Subaru's harness are split up, but perhaps it would be easy to find some replacement sections say for the injectors at a JY? Sorry the C & C thing didn't work out, I was rootin' for ya! Will-

Interesting looking stuff. Looks like the 970 paper at 1/32 thick might squeeze in there.

This is my vote. I don't know what a spark plug repair kit with a chaser costs, but you could pick up a tap for less then 20 bucks and chase the threads. Should work unless the bung got really deformed. I've successfully repaired cracked engine cases on motorcycles with JB weld, but I doubt it would be up to the heat of exhaust. Good Luck!

Good choice in cars, that's what I'm driving, same color even. The '96 OBW manual trans is the last year to have the non-interference 2.2 liter engine. They don't have the head gasket issues that the 2.5's have and are regarded as one of Subaru's most reliable engines, and the 5spd trans is not as susceptible to torque bind as the auto. So that being said, the value will really depend on what kind of shape the car is in and what kind of maintenance records come with it and lastly what they go for in your neck of the woods. Hopefully Grossgary will jump in here as I believe he's near you, or at least in the same state. When you get a chance to drive it, check for torque bind, records (tire purchases for example would be nice to know about), and all the usual stuff you look for in a used car. Good Luck!

Seems like the fact that the same CEL code has been happening under the same circumstances before and after the engine swap is important. Wouldn't it be highly unlikely that the C & C sensors would fail in the same way and so soon after the swap? I wouldn't be surprised if the C & C sensors weren't new but rather good testing used units. But even so, chances are that it's some aspect of the car that was not touched/interfered with before and after the swap. I've been following this post, I love a good mystery! I wish I had something better to offer then a string of logic that you've probably already thought of, but I just don't know enough about the electrical side of newer cars to be of much assistance. I just thought I would throw it out there because you're talking about paying some bucks to have the valves set when they were just set 10k ago by a reputable outfit. So since the... ECU Igniter Injectors Plugs Wires O2 sensor Crank sensor Cam Sensor anything I'm missing? ...have all been changed/investigated, what else is there that wouldn't have been swapped with the engine? Didn't I read on here someplace, somewhere, sometime that a backed up Cat can cause this problem? I could be totally pulling that out of my... Sure hope you figure it out! Will-

This mean the Legacy isn't getting fixed? I like those early imprezas, but I would think the 1.8l and smaller body would get better mileage then they do. Good luck with the new ride!

I know the sentiment. I feel the same way about 60K interval for my 2.2L. Especially with the miles I put on it, that has me changing the belt about every 2 years! After doing a lot of reading on this site, I went with the ebay kit for the pulleys but used an OEM belt and water pump. Grossgary did a great write up on how to re-grease the OEM pulley set which is not a bad idea. Had I found that before the job I probably would've done that since the OEM bearings are no doubt better quality then the feebay ones. But since I'm in there every 60K, I'm not too worried about it. I'm not sure if the following applies to your 2.5 but some one will correct me if it doesn't. Be sure to get a new o-ring for the oil pump and pull it off and check the screws on the back that hold on the impeller as they like to back off. Use a bit of locktite for the screws and an anaerobic sealant when you put the pump back on. Also, you may consider changing the crank and camshaft seals especially if you see any hint of a leak. They are pretty easy to do and could save you some unnecessary work in the future. And last but not least, the torque for the harmonic balancer bolt should be 135ftlbs instead of the 80 or whatever is printed in the manual. Good Luck!

Just take a Saturday and do the job. Not doing it for the reason you mentioned is like saying you don't wear your seat belt 'cause you know TONS of people who haven't ever been in an accident.

Do a search. Ethos, and many other products like it, have been talked about... and talked about and talked about and talked about and talked about....

'prolly get you out of a ditch:banana:

It is a hole covered by ...