lostinthe202

All the 2.2's had cables didn't they? So same theory could apply with an improper cable adjustment. eh? I know when I replaced my clutch cable, the lock nuts came loose like 4 times before I got them tight enough to stay put (grrrrrr)

Couldn't Evo peek through the shift for hole or the little plate that exposes the flywheel, perhaps with the aid of a flashlight and dental mirror? I have no idea if this would work, but easier then pulling the tranny. EDIT- sorry, fast typing, should read "shift fork":)

ShawnW's offer is clearly the best. But if you're not able to, How many miles on the car? How many miles on it 2 years ago when you had the work done? Has it been doing this the whole 2 years? How's about your waterpump and thermostat? OEM parts? Good Luck! Will-

Sheesh fella, feel strongly do we? Fiats are like banjo music, you either love 'em or hate 'em. There just doesn't seem to be an in between. I found them to be fun cars to drive, and very reliable assuming you were diligent about maintenace... But anyway, back to the subject. I had a similar long life brake experience. Not quite as high, 90k but still a long time. It was a 4spd yota pickup, so a light load unless I had it full of crap. But I did do a lot of highway so I always attributed it to that and engine braking. Though I also didn't use the clutch to slow down, I did match engine speed before letting out the clutch so I was still saving the brakes. Will-

Good link, thanks! Will-

Thanks, I am def. fortunate that I have the means at my disposal to whip stuff like that up when I want/need it. Saves more money for parts and camping trips:banana: Help it did indeed. If you ever have need of something cut in 2 dimensions just send me numbers and I'll burn it out for ya! Looks like I'll be sticking around awhile longer as the powers that be decided to up my pay after finding out I was gonna split. :banana: Sure makes me happy 'cause this is the most fun I've had making a paycheck since being the gear jockey on rock climbing trips in Yosemite back in my teens. As for the pulley, turns out the re-torque wasn't needed, but I'm sure gonna sleep better tonight knowing for sure! Thanks again Will-

Faaaaantastic!! :banana: Thanks a ton Skip. I tried measuring with the pulley on the car and I'm glad I posted 'cause my numbers where off by about .050

but that was kind of the point, I counted belt teeth and the pax side was fine but the driver's side wasn't, it seemed to be off by .5 a tooth. I counted several times and kept coming up with the same result. Furthermore, if I was to move it one tooth it would still be off by half a tooth just on the other side of the timing mark and there wasn't any slack to move the belt with it engaged on the crank and pax pulley which all checked out, so if I wanted move the belt a tooth on the driver's side, I'd have to rotate the pulley to do it which would bring the mark off the 12:00 position. I assume now that I was either starting or stopping my count in the wrong place and that it was actually correct. I assume this 'cause the car still has the smoothest idle of any car I've ever owned and goes/stops/turns wonderfully. Will-

Open your hood and it will be a white plastic cup with a yellow cap similar in size to a coffee mug located in the right rear corner of the engine bay. The cap with have some writing on it indicating the type of brake fluid to be used and the cup with have high and low marks which the fluid should be between.

Wow, fantastic layout Skip! Looks like the 2.2l and 2.5 pulleys are different. I remember the holes in the 2.2 were 5/16 or so. I'll make up a drawing based on this then edit if the 2.2 turns out to be different. Thanks! Will-

You may have a leak in your vacuum booster. The pedal feels firm at low speeds because it doesn't take as much force to stop the car, but at higher speeds you press harder and for longer. I'm no expert, I'm sure one of them will chim in soon, but this would be my guess. Good Luck

I would stop driving the car until you figure this out. Sounds like maybe you sprung a leak in your front right someplace. If it's pulling to the left it 'prolly means your right caliper is not grabbing. Check your fluid and see if it's low and look for fluid on the ground. Good Luck Will-

Ha! Take your time, please. I never wanted to be said that I didn't allow time for a good cup of coffee!! Thanks! Will-

'96 2.2l OK, so all this talk recently of improper torque values for the crank pulley has gotten me all paranoid that it's not on tight enough. While I had my pulley off I had made a crank holder to use to put it back on. I torqued down to maybe 120-130 but as I approached that number the "handle" on my holder started to bend so it's 'prolly not a true number. I'm pretty sure it's on there... buuut maybe I wanna check it anyway. I went to retrieve my bent holder this morning to bring in with me to work and I couldn't find it. After asking the wife she confirmed it went out with last weekend's trash. Now why in the name of bananas would someone throw out a rusty bent piece of metal with an anemic spaghetti fork on the end of it???:-p I know several of you have this afore mentioned holder so if one of you would be so kind as to measure the spacing for me with a caliper (yes skip, looking in your direction:grin: ), I would be most grateful! Please provide, outside-to-outside and the diameter of the posts. As always, thanks much! Will-

I did get an OEM belt and thus a bit disappointed that the marks/teeth didn't add up. But we all seem to be saying the same this, which is that if you can get the belt on and all three pulley marks are at 12:00, then you're good to go.

Ah, well... thanks fellas. I'll def. remember that in 60k when it's time to do that dance again. So just to clarify, you don't have to line the marks up EXACTLY to take the belt off, but you do want to be close as opposed to taking the belt off wherever it happens to be when you last shut off the engine. The reason being it would be possible to have one cam or the other out by 180 degrees if you lined things up with every thing free? When I did this job, I didn't have a manual (all I have is chiltons and it's for like 20 different models of subaru and from what I've read contains errors) all I had was the printout of the endwrench article on doing the 2.2 belt and various other notes from things I've learned from you fine people. It seemed pretty straight forward. The first few attempts getting the belt back on was a royal PIA as the driver's side cam was under valve spring tension and kept snapping shut one way or the other (hooray non-interferance:clap: ). I then went back and read the re-assembly instructions more completely and noticed that they had an order in which your supposed to put the idler and tensioner pulleys back on. I followed those and it was done in a snap. For good measure I counted the teeth as mentioned in the endwrench article and the left side came out to the number, but the right side seemed to be a tooth off. BUT, it did match the orientation of the old belt, so I went with it figuring it ran fine that way before. Anyway, thanks for the info! Will-

I like the Englanese navigation panel

Is this KBB in NY or OR?

Over the past two years that I've owned my '96 2.2 5spd, I've seen an average of 29mpg. It should be noted that I live in the boonie suburbs of Wash. DC so if I'm driving stop-and-go it's punctuated with long stretches of highways going 45-60 between the lights, so this is basically a highway mpg figure. Road trips when I'm doing nothing but 75-80 I get between 31-33. If I spend the day running errands in the city I get around 27mpg. When the wife borrows the car to drive around the city "shopping", she averages, 25mpg. Again, there are always factors, tire pressure, dirty air filters bla bla bla, and most importantly your driving style. I don't think I've been in a hurry to get anywhere since high school so I tend to get better economy then most people I know. so this may not be the case for you. As for the price, Gary gave you an excellent response. The only thing I'd add, is that in my experience the life of a vehicle greatly depends on how it was treated "growing up" so if this car has a documented service history that reflects proper maintenance, then that's worth a bit more money in my book. I've seen similar questions on this board and they seem to get a lot of "the 2.2 liter is bombproof, a tank, bulletproof, will last forever" etc. etc. And it's not that I disagree, honestly I've only owned one for 2 years so I'm not qualified to answer that question, but what I do know is that if the oil only gets changed every 20,000 miles and the filter never gets replaced, I don't care how good the engine design the chance of an early demise is increased. Good Luck! Will-

I just did this same job to my car. For the life of me I couldn't get the all the three belt marks, cam pulley marks, crank marks, and the marks on the covers to line up before taking the belt off, something was ALWAYS out. So I went on the "ran fine before/will run fine after" theory and made sure to put the new belt on the same way the old one came off. Anyway, the point of this story is to say that I put the cooling system back together so I could start the car and make sure it ran OK, I did this with pulley on only as tight as I could get it with compression resistance, then torqued it down afterwards. I don't recall having any space issues with the Rad fans in place. My deux franc Will-

+1000, Down With Walmart!!

What does this mean?

Is the other half putting it back in? Will-

This is on my 5spd too I tried this first and found that without an assistant it is not easy to hold the screwdriver and crank the bolt at the same time. Also, it seemed like a real invitation to drop something down into the bell housing.. which would suck... bad:dead: Yes, it does work and quite well. Though I chose a breaker bar long enough to reach the ground instead of bracing against any part of the car. When I first heard of this method I was pretty skeptical, but the more I thought about it, the less it seemed any different than using an impact wrench. Will-

This is how I've pulled these off other cars in the past (I used grade bolts instead of allen keys but same idea) until I busted a big chunk out of the pulley on our honda civic. granted the torque rating on that bolt was 180ftlbs (yikes!!), but when I saw the comparatively tiny holes in the EJ pulley I decided I wanted all four. But again, much depends on how it was put on Will-