lostinthe202

These look good. My puller thing didn't end up working so well. I went with the screw method, but I didn't like the possibility of drilling too far. Will-

Ditto, all the flex just robs the mechanical advantage. I think a lot does depend on how it was torqued down before, like whether an air-impact was used. Plus, even if you overcome the stretch in a strap wrench and get it off, you still have to get it back on to the proper torque which would be hard to do with something elastic like a strap wrench. But thats just my experience, others seem to have no problems with 'em, i dunno..

Perhaps your gauge is gummy and not reading correctly. Maybe try running some cleaner for a tank or two and see if it helps. Of course, if you're calculating your mileage correctly, this doesn't help much. But I thought I'd throw it out there. Good Luck! Will-

I guess if you have the engine out of the car you can't use the long-pole-braced-on-a-wall and the starter motor method. If you haven't taken it out yet, you could do this then pull it out. Then once you have it off you can measure for a holder and make one to put it back on with. I did this and brought it into work and made a cad file of the hole spacing which I then burned out on our laser cutter. I believe I still have the file on my computer at work, so if you have access to a welder, I can cut one out for you and send it. All you'll need to do is weld some rod to it for the pulley and another for the handle. If you're interested, PM me. Will-

Hmm... I do believe the next time I'm at the JY I'll have to look for one so I can saw it half and have a looksiezzz

Huh... yep, totally missed that. 'Prolly covered by grit/dust/whatever. So is it like an engine mount in that the pulley is two pieces that are bonded/captured by the rubber ring?

I missed this part entirely when I had mine off, I don't remember there being any rubber on the thing. Granted, I didn't really scrutinize the thing other then to check the keyway for nicks. Is mine missing something that it should have? How's about a pic:popcorn: Thanks! Will-

Assuming the puller is used properly, how does this damage the edge? I'm not contradicting, I've just never noticed anything in the past. thanks! Will-

What causes you to think it's the fuel pump? This idea is a bit far flung, bit it could work if you're problem really is too much moisture. Get a shallow pan (or two or three) and fill it with silica gel which absorbs moisture, like this stuff... http://www.amazon.com/Dry-Storage-Silica-Gel-Dehumidifier/dp/B000NI6YWM/ref=pd_bbs_sr_8?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1203683108&sr=8-8 ...and leave it in your car at night Might work. Also, if you have A/C, turn it on while you drive around as that will dehumidify as well (with the heat on of course;) ) Good Luck! Will-

Egads! Well it took me several attempts through the course of the day, but I finally found the post that had a link to a write up on how to change these bulbs. I haven't tried this (I'm still counting buttons in the dark with my fingers), and it is on my laundry list, but it's pretty far down there. http://www.randomsoup.com/how_acpanelbulbs.html Original post- http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2498&highlight=vent+lights Will-

Mine took a bit of wigglin, but came off pretty easy by hand. Otherwise, yes a three jaw puller would do it provided you have enough room. I really shouldn't put up much of a fight. Will- edit - IT, it really shouldn't put up much of a fight! I would put up a fight:LOL:

I recently read the thread (couldn't find it tho) that mentioned that '97 was the year that the 2.2's became interference, but if your's is an early '97 it may still be non-interference. I wish I could be more helpful in the identification, but perhaps one of the gurus will chime in. Will-

Skip's got the ticket with the file trick. Though, it is possible you picked up a straight plug. Easy to find out after you've filed the notches in and you're running it in and out to clean the threds. If you're able to run it all the way in, then either your threads were cut too deep or your plug is a straight plug. Or if you have a caliper, measure the top and bottom of the threads and look for a difference... tho if you have a caliper you've prolly already done that:) Will-

Ah yes, yee ol' Italian tune up! Has as good a chance of making things worse as better I believe... perhaps the oil and filter as 777 suggests first eh?.... Will-

Yikes!

New belt! Why back in my day when belt made noise we tightened it up and ran it some more. Then when that didn't work we put some stuff on it, tightened it again and kept going! Then when the belt broke we started in on the ol' lady's pantyhose! Then when we ran out of that we.... OK, that's enough. Yes by all means, as new belt is the ticket. they are cheap after all.

Oooo, chalk. Never heard of that one, I'll have to remember that

I second the loose belt, check tension, perhaps some belt dressing?

What is the torque rating for the axle nuts? I didn't realize it was so high! Or is it really just the rust you're fighting? Great pics btw, (as usual!) On the note of the pics, how are you holding the axle from moving besides having it in gear? I've always found the the key to braking things loose is to eliminate all flex from the system, as it just eats up the mechanical advantage of the cheater on your breaker bar. A piece of flat bar with a couple of holes drilled for the lug studs is something I've used in the past to get those off. Impact sockets are def. the way to go for this kinda stuff, I haven't broken one yet, but there's always a first! Will-

I dunno about that, seems the amount of moisture required is pretty small, and with the oil drained, I think there would be plenty of air behind the pump. Kinda like urethane glue (gorilla glue), coating both surfaces with water helps speed things up but it's not usually necessary. On the other hand, didn't I read someplace that combustion gases can get moisture into the motor oil by way of blow-by that the oil having a hydrophilic quality absorbs? If so then perhaps the RTV would be competing with the oil residue still in the area for the available moisture. This on the other hand is def. asking for trouble. Another fault with the directions, saying that it, "is fully cured in 24 hrs" implies that you shouldn't submerse it in fluids after the initial 1 hr dry period, but it should perhaps be more clear.

Eh, yeah, I can't find my chilton book:slobber:

My '96 OBW 2.2 idles at just above the first mark on the tach and idles just below 1000 with the a/c on. Sorry I know that's not very precise. Will- EDIT - it's a 5spd

... don't forget to mention that these "improvements" also include making it an interference engine:confused: Will-

Sorry msmith, it is a 2.2. Nipper, No need for the leak test on the bleed screw, I could see antifreeze pooling in the screw driver slots. I just wasn't sure if it could suck in enough air that way to be a problem. There are 166k on the car which I purchased with 120k. The guy I bought it from said his buddy was a dealer in PA that will give him cars that don't sell or some kinda weird story. The title had a bunch of transfers on it, but was clean. Supposedly It was a single owner car before me (at least according to carfax, so who really knows) but it didn't come with any service records. I probably would've passed, but it seemed like it was in really good shape especially for a car from the Pa snow belt. Virtually no rust, clean engine bay, clean fluids, and the price was right so I went for it. I just finished doing the T-belt and related goodies and I would say either it was well taken care of as all the parts seemed to be OEM stuff, or I got really lucky and all the original equipment held for 2.75 belt change intervals. But I lean towards the former as the oil pump screws looked like they already had loc-tite on them. So as for the rad, I know I can't really say without x-ray vision or a flow test. My drive to work this morning was trouble free with the gauge coming up to running temp about a 1/4 mile before it usually does (50 mph road) and staying right where it should be the whole drive (50 mi). I'll be keeping my eye on it and when I get a chance I'll go drive it through the mountains and see what it does. Thanks! Will-

Yeah, I think the instructions on the Ultra-Gray stuff are kind of asking for trouble. It says to use a 1/16 to 1/4 bead. I can only imagine how much would squeeze out on a 1/4 inch bead! Thanks for the input. Will-