lostinthe202

Ha! If the OB is the choice (and so far it's looking that way) then I'll gladly sell ya the hatch if you're interested. A very good point. The rust doesn't seem too bad by eastcoast standards, but by a west coaster would probably say otherwise. Well, I'm my own mechanic which is not always a good thing, but that's the way it is. As far as smog goes, the plot just thickened. I contacted a subaru dealer in California in the county I'm moving to who referred me to Subaru-America's 800 number. I called, and after a VIN check, they told me that my car is a 49 state model. They say it could be anywhere from 4-500 dollars (before labor) to have the car modified to meet Cali smog but couldn't tell what parts specifically needed to be changed. I called the Cali dealer back and told them that it was 49 state and asked what they thought would need to be changed and they said nothing providing all the original equipment was present and working. I don't know who's right but, if I do take the OB, I really wanna try and do whatever work needs doing here where I have a shop space 'cause I still don't know where I'm going to land in Cali and I'm through with stealthy grocery store parking lot repair work. Anyone wanna weigh in on that? Thanks Will-

Really, I thought all 2.2 were non-interference. Is this the phase II 2.2 that I've seen people mention?

Yes, I've read good things about the 2.2's reliability, and I really like that the engine is non-interference, if only it didn't have timing belts like the ea81. I don't know much about the safety end of it except that it has abs which took some getting used to. Will-

I have a tough choice to make and I need some help deciding. So what better place to turn than to a bunch of people who may have some better insight than myself... or at the very least have more distance from a problem I've been wrestling with for awhile and can't seem to get any objective distance on:confused: . I wasn't sure if I should post this in old or new since it involves both, but it seems that many people on the old forum have both so... I've got two roo's, and '89 hatch (ea81, 4spd d/r) and a '96 legacy OB wagon (2.2, 5spd). I will be moving to California in July and I can only take one with me. I will be going back to school so I need to shave down any extra expense which means only having one car. So which should it be. here's the specs: 1996 legacy OB wagon with 165k. I bought it with 120k on it and I don't know it's service history but aside from a fender bender which gave her a bit of a crooked smile kinda like :cool: and few things which I'll mention in a moment, she has treated me right. The new- Alternator Front tires Timing belt (150k, and sadly not the waterpump... long story) Front and rear O2 sensors Plugs/wires The needs to be new- Radiator/thermostat Rear tires Idle control Valve (or whatever controls the idle, it's always erratic after I've been driving awhile and I restart, like after stopping at a store or something) Front brakes Muffler (broken in above mentioned bumper sandwich) 1989 ea81 hatch with 145k. Just recently aquired, seems to be in pretty decent shape. Starts no problems down to 8 degrees F so far.. The new- Tune up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, pcv + filter, air filter) Muffler The needs to be new- Front axle shafts Front brakes Front struts (prolly rear too but they can wait) So those are the choices. They both get the same mileage (hatch is a couple points better) so no help there. I lean towards the wagon 'cause it's newer and so maybe more reliable. On the other hand, it's starting to show it's age too so one can assume things will start to go wrong with increasing regularity. Also, I know a lot less about fixing a car with so many things computer controlled. Like when the plugs went bad, it felt like the timing was off, went to check if it needed to be adjusted and... well you all know how that turns out:banghead: I don't like that I can't even read codes without having one of those gizmos. The hatch is older and def. will need attention in the future, mostly having to do with suspension (bushings, ball joints, etc. but really anything can go wrong). But I've got no problem working on stuff and I'm keeping my bike (74 cb550) so I'll have something to get to school/work on if my 4 wheeled ride is up on stands. As for how I use my vehicles, I am into skiing, camping, climbing, biking, bla bla bla. the more secluded the better, offroading to get there the best. But not with as much regularity as I'd like. At least not until I'm done with school and have more free time. So there will be snow and muddy trails being driven but both cars are capable of what I'm likely to encounter as they both have about the same ground clearance. And the one final consideration, ready? drum roll please..... California emissions testing! Yes folks, either way I go it'll have to pass smog. I've gone to the DMV's website to see what they have to say about the subject and they say to check the sticker under the hood to see if it's a California model. The hatch just says that it conforms to "light truck" emissions standards so I've got no idea about that. But I posted a question about that earlier and someone mentioned that the 80's Roos hit the west coast first and were usually up to Cali spec. The wagon's sticker says it's a California model... and then I remembered that I replaced the hood after the accident so I've got no idea what it is. I'll be calling a dealer later to try and see if they can tell from the vin which model it is. So there's the dilemma, sorry it was so long! Any suggestions welcome. And if anyone happens to know how to identify a California model outback and what would need to be changed if it is a 49 state, that would be fantastic. Thanks!!! Will-

I 2nd Nipper and 3rd Skip, take the brat for their reasons and 'cause IMO the brat is much cooler... and not an auto... Will-

+1

Eh?.. like a laser cutter? nice result!

OK, point taken. My comment wasn't aimed at the idea, just the execution. I don't know how they drive in TX, but in Va it's considered normal to ride so close that the guy behind you gauges his speed by your speedometer. I would not want to be the meat in an SUV sandwich while riding in that. For the same effort (less probably) you could find yourself a little diesel something and convert it to WVO. Or if safety isn't an issue, you could pop for one of these http://www.popularmechanics.com/blogs/automotive_news/4232400.html Will-

Looks great, hope the ejection seat works!!

Hmm.... You raise a good point. I just ordered stuff for a tuneup and didn't even think about vacuum line which is, as far as I know original equipment. Any chance you recall what size line you got and how much of it? (carbed '89 ea81 hatch) thanks

Welcome to the board! Actually I'm quite new here myself. I'm not an authority on subaru's or anything so I'll let the heavys weigh in on your tech questions, especially concerning the 4x4 part as Subaru's have a number of different systems I haven't a clue as to which models/years have which transmissions and there seem to be different rules for each. On the Alternator I would def. say that it's output is low. Check the belt tension and see what tests your book has. On the book, be careful what you read, chiltons and haynes are notorious for incorrect/incomplete information. Oil pressure seems good to me, but again i'll defer to the experts On the idle/acceleration, I'm not sure I know what you mean. do you mean that it idles at 2000? If this is the case that is def. too high, should be around 1000 for carb. less for spfi/mpfi (I think!) On temp. that's prolly high. Have your radiator flow tested and replace your thermostat with one from the dealer, there are tons of reports on this board that only the dealer ones are reliable. Also, make sure your cooling fan(s) are turning on. On that note, searches on this board are your friend. I mean this, I've learned more information than I can retain just by searching and reading threads. Almost any question/problem you have someone has had before you. For example, there have been a number of posts just recently about 4x4 do's and don'ts. Good luck and have a good time!!

Not sure what you'd need. But, if you haven't already, you might want to see what the remotes cost 'cause I believe they are fairly pricey and finding the thing at the JY is pretty remote.... sorry, couldn't resist

Nice lookin' wagon

stock (as far as I know) ea81 hatch 4speed, about 3k at 65mph Edit - tires are 185/70 r13

Sorry Brian, I posted before I searched.... Bad Lost, Bad! I didn't intend to rehash the arguement That being said, I already have the steel and axle for a trailer so money wise, not much spent there. Time is another matter, but I have never been able to sit still, ( my sister called me the twitcher growing up:-p ) so I don't care about that part. As for whether the hatch is the right car for me, well perhaps it isn't. But then no vehicle is... except perhaps a pickup that is capable of hauling 20 ft. sticks of tubing, full sheets of drywall and plywood, but is still able to fit into city parking spots without circling for three hours looking for one long enough and gets 30 miles to the gallon;) Not trying to be a smart**s or anything just pointing out the age old dilemma that afflicts so many of us poor working stiffs. I will almost def. go the rental truck route. I've seen my share of nasty highway action flipped tractor trailers and all. Half the equation is how safe and competent you are, but the other half is how safe and competent everyone else is and until they start administering IQ exams at the DMV, the other half is not to be taken lightly. Really I think this post was some sort of passive-aggressive digital outburst at having to scrape together another 3k because I just can't seem to sit still!

Yeah, after two wrong mufflers, looking at pics in the computer got me the right one, sheesh. I should be taking some more pics this weekend, tho not much to look at... yet...

Holy crap that's a cheap trailer. The Chinese must be trailer haulin' fools! $179.00 is almost cheap enough for me to abandon my trailer making plans, I could just modify this one. It probably won't last very long, but I only need 3000 miles out if it!

Hmm.... hadn't thought of that. I know I could fabricate something that would keep it stable, but convincing the highway patrol may be a different story;)

Yeah, I saw Gloyale's response in that towing post link above, looks like he did fine. Most of my towing experience is of the, "rental truck with a car on a flatbed" kind. I've been across the country 9 times in the last 3 years and 4 of those with trailers. This of course does not make me an expert by any means, but I am familiar with how they like to ride both forwards and backwards. But I know that the rental truck/trailer cross country combination usually runs 3 grand after hotels/food/gas so I'm interested in alternatives. I suppose I could stop moving around, but what fun would that be:-p I suppose this is a bit of the "could I" vs. "should I". No I people shouldn't weld while standing water, yes I see it all the time in steel mills. Yes I should wear my seatbelt even if I'm just driving down the street a bit (actually I wear mine religiously), no I don't always do it. As many people pointed out in the above thread, it's not that it can't be done, it's that the unforeseen is that much harder to deal with. But, and I'll probably get a sound thrashing from the professionals here, there is a big difference between the load I'm talking about and what they deal with daily. I dunno...

....uh yeah... I just finished reading the post I linked to above. At least until it devolved... I think I'll be making other plans....

Opps! My bad I should have done a search first, I got ahead of myself... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83596&page=4&highlight=towing

... What could one tow with an EA81? I was browsing through pics someplace or another and saw a brat with a tow hitch on it. From my understanding the brats never had an engine that was any bigger than mine (ea81 hatch) so it got me to thinkin'... I'm going to be moving across the country soon and while I'm not taking all the much stuff, only what will fit in my car, I do have one rather large item that I don't want to part with but I haven't figured out how to get across without taking it apart... again..., a 1974 cb550 motorcycle. I work in a machine shop and have access to plenty of steel so I thought of building a trailer, I just had may doubts as to whether my car could tow it. I plan on putting on hydraulic breaks so stopping won't be an issue, but I have my doubts as to whether the Roo could haul the weight. Figure it to be about 2000 - 2500lbs total weight which includes, the car's contents, the bike and the trailer which with it's contents might be about 1500. Does the motor have enough power? If so, can the drive train take it?, If so what about suggestions for beefing up the rear suspension? as always, thanks!!

Yeah! I got it from a guy in Spring Grove. I'd been wanting one of these for a long time and got lucky this time around. It was a bit of a haul for me too, about 2 hours. But sometimes you just gotta go for it. I know what you mean about the seller, he was a bit lacking in communication. He never really responded to most of my questions. But as long as the car lived up to what he put in the description I was happy. The only thing that didn't is that he said it gets 35mpg. I've been getting 30-31 but I haven't given it a tuneup yet so I'm still hoping.... The condition is pretty good. There are a few rust spots that will need attention. But the underside looks fine. Mechanically it's in pretty good shape aside from all the normal stuff that wears out after 20 years. The Seller said it "may need a new muffler, iginition switch, and clutch adjustment." The muffler was a def. as it had a couple of holes the size of my fist in it. After two wrong mufflers I finally got that sorted. The electrical part of the ignition tumbler was failing, specifically the starting portion. I tried ordering one from the dealer and again got the wrong part (which I couldn't return because it was a special order!!) so I just wired in a momentary contact switch which I mounted in the dash in one of the holes for accessories I don't have. There's nothing wrong with the clutch far as I can tell. He made some comment about the car "always starting, you just sometimes have to push the clutch in real hard" referring to it not starting sometimes so I think he thought there is a clutch kill switch, which there isn't. Aside from that, the front axles need replacing, after getting the wrong ones (third time!!!!) I posted here and GD set me straight about asking after parts for an '84 and got the correct ones from Napa, but I've been considering taking them back as I've read numerous horror stories about Napa and other discountish axles failing out of the box or quickly there after. Some one suggested GCK axles off Amazon (of which there are tons) but they seems suspiciously priced. Anyone got anything to say on that subject? Geez, look at me, yak yak yak... Anyway, plans for the future include rust abatement, a roof rack like MA's which I'll build http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83781 (anyone know where to get the mounts?), and the SPFI conversion. Great board you've got here!

Sweet lookin' ride. Love the luggage rack!!!

Only pic I have of it currently, kinda crappy...