lostinthe202

Anyone know the thickness spec for a '99 Forester flywheel? I want to see if I can have mine ground rather than buy another if I can help it. Thanks!! Will-

Ah, thanks didn't know that. The bunjy was easy enough, but if it weren't that's good to know. Don't have a cherry picker, any friends with one, or the desire to rent a truck to go rent one, etc. etc. Don't have a comealong. The straps weren't to lift the trans, the two jacks underneath did that, they are just there to hold it up so i didn't have to get it back in the air when I was finished.

So yeah, not the slave or the master. In fact the slave was probably fine, but well now I have a spare. I call this one, "still life with clutch disc" The PP and Flywheel are totally hosed. I have all of the original records and this is the original clutch so it's got 177k on it. My '96 OBW had 160ish on it's original clutch (not verified original though) and it didn't look anywhere near as bad. Can't really tell from the pics, but the flywheel friction surface is scored bellow the plane of PP mounting surface. It seems like there's been a lot of heat put into these parts which amazes me that the friction disc lasted as long as it did. It never slipped on me either, right up to it exploding. Anyway, new parts are on order, OEM kit, TO clips and a new fork boot. The fork is in good condition, there was plenty of grease still around, too much in fact I'd say, but then maybe that's why it's still around I was able to suspend the trans and shove it back enough that I don't have to lift it to get things back together, All it took was bunji-chording the shifter arms out of the way and the straps you see in the pics and a bunch of playing around with jacks underneath to find the correct angle to get off the studs on the bottom. It was a pain, but not as much of a pain as trying to maneuver the trans down to the ground and then back up again. If I had a hoist or access to one I would have pulled the engine. I could have rented one, but since it would have involved renting a vehicle to go get it, the expense really couldn't be justified. Not to mention I would have had to buy a couple of sheet of plywood to move the thing around on. Whatever, it's getting done. Will-

You might want to give more details. What Year/model is your engine? What work did you actually have done? You say, "the machine shop removed the bolts I had left in" does this mean you took the engine to a shop? Did they have the whole car? What work did they perform exactly? What were the symptoms that lead you to repair the engine in the first place? By "water bottle" do you mean the radiator or the coolant overflow bottle? Saying that you filled the water bottle from both sides suggests the radiator, but is that what you meant? Did you fill the engine with coolant after the HG job or did the shop do it? This board is great for getting answers to your questions, but it is REALLY important that you give as much of the facts surrounding your problem that you can so that the board can answer your questions accurately. Good luck Will-

I'm 99% sure I had all the air out, about as sure as I could be. Yup, going to do that, I remember that from my first Sub clutch job Yeah a broken fork is what got me digging into the clutch on my first Subaru ('96 Outback) so I'll def be looking at that. The problem developed really quickly, like I took it out of 5th on the freeway and at the end of the offramp when I went to put it into 1st, it wouldn't go, not even a little. I had to turn the car off and start it in first just to get moving. I didn't consider trying to lube the fork or any other stop-gap measures inside the bell-housing. I was willing to try the slave since that's a known weak link, but I don't like driving time-bombs. The major down side is that between this and having to pay for my upcoming semester, I'll be shelling out close to a grand in the next couple of days

Well, I installed the new slave clamped it and bleed system. The fluid was clean fluid coming out without any sign of big bubbles or that frothy stuff. The movement at the fork looked pretty good to me, though I don't know how much travel there is supposed to be. It didn't work, same symptoms as before, push in the clutch and I'm not able to get it into gear. The one thing that was different, and had me worried, is that I could feel the engine rpm through the clutch pedal and there were some funny noises coming from the bell-housing area. Something is not right in the internals of the clutch. And since nobody feels it necessary to put in any kind of useful inspection plate, I'm in the process of pulling the trans to find out what's wrong. Once again on dirt/gravel, once again alone, once again without solid information that I'm going in the right direction. But I need this car back on the road, even if it means replacing parts that don't need replacing. man what I wouldn't give for a cement slab! Will-

You might check out this thread, http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=121963 Good instructions on cracking the trans open. Does/did your trans make a growing noise at all? The big double roller bearing tends to wear out on these trans. There is a lot of unsupported shaft in there in the same place that the 4wd stuff was on the earlier models that had it (same case design pretty much) I've had trouble with mine in the past as have other people, but I didn't loose any clutch discs because of it. Anyway, it's a good read to tell you how to open things up. Will- Also, if you do searches for "transmission bearing replacement" you'll find other threads with good pics.

Right on, thanks Rick! I picked up a slave from the parts store today and I'll throw it in tomorrow morning. Will-

Yeah, I came to the same conclusion. But the only place that had a master in stock was Napa and it was $157 for theirs so I got the slave and I'll order the master, I just hope that is the problem and not something that requires trans removal. Yes, the pedal does return to the top.

'99 Forester, 177k, 5spd My clutch is acting up as in I press the pedal in and I can't engage the trans with the car running. The fluid looked way nasty, so I bleed the system clean. I can see the slave moving the fork, but I would say not enough and since I can't get into gear, I suspect either the slave or the master, but how do you tell which? Thanks! Will-

Wow, I def missed that, kinda glad I did, yeesh!

I don't know the answer off the top of my head, but I do know the information is on here someplace as I've seen this discussed before. What I want to know is, what the hell is this-------->

I'd say those are pretty good. Every one of those I pass always show the same ~3mph slower speed then my speedo does. I'd say they are pretty good to within a mile/hr or two

Yeah, I'll be watching what I buy. I think I'll follow up Rooster2's idea of asking my local Ace hardware about theirs. I just need to unlock the doors, so if they are comparable in price to used one in good condition on ebay I'll probably go for it. That way I'll probably have some kind of warranty as well. Will-

Yeah, rectangular is the one from what I gather. Well, I'm in to hurry so I'll just keep an eye on the usual places and see what I come up with. Will-

Looks like that one won't work. Thanks anyway though! Will-

Right on, thanks for the confirmation! Will-

Thanks for the replies everyone. Gary, I'm not really sure how to tell what variety I need. I didn't receive one with the car so I don't know which style goes with it, any ideas there? My folks have a 2000 legacy which has this kind, http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-SUBARU-KEY-KEYLESS-ENTRY-REMOTE-FOB-TRANSMITTER-A269ZUA111-2-BT-GREY-/280846914605?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1999|Model%3AForester&hash=item4163c7d42d&vxp=mtr and my friend had a 2000 forester which had this kind, http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-KEYLESS-ENTRY-REMOTE-KEY-FOB-CLICKER-FORESTER-/310390988093?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1999|Model%3AForester&hash=item4844be9d3d&vxp=mtr As you can see from the ad, they both say they work with a '99 forester, but they both give a different range of compatibility, so who knows. Rooster2, thanks for the tip, I'll check that out as well. Jarl, I doubt Gary is talking about new remotes, probably left overs from one of the 2 or 3 Subarus Gary has owned over the years :-p

What are you still doing up anyway? Go to bed!!:-p

hehe, yeah I'm still around. Haven't been on much lately , at least not to post. I don't remember my '96 outback having that problem, but it's been about 3 years since I owned that car and the memory is a fickle thing. I didn't see anything obvious when I was staring at it earlier and I don't have a book for this car yet. I'll report back if I find anything interesting this weekend when I have some time to dig further. Will-

Wondering what people's experience are with them, if any. I recently picked up a '99 Forester who's fobs were long ago lost. The ones from the dealer are (predictably) expensive. I see some used ones on feebay for about $35, but I'm of the mind that the batteries aren't the only thing that wears out on them, but perhaps I'm incorrect? Anyway, whatcha got?! Thanks! Will-

'99 Forester, Is there a way to adjust this? I recently picked up this car and I love it in most ways, but the driver's door won't stay open on anything but the slightest incline. Thanks! Will-

I think you mentioned that you were using a cutting fluid, but in case you weren't that's key. yeah, good quality cobalt, like what you'd get if you ordered from Mcmaster-carr you could get carbide drills, when you're talking CNC's that will drill anything, they are using carbide drills. They can either be an insert style or just solid carbide. They are expensive though, a set would run somewhere north of $500. You can also get carbide tipped drills that are somewhat more reasonable in price, but still expensive. you could order a few sizes that you would likely be dealing with. The downside, is that carbide prone to breaking if not run at the proper feed and speed, something very difficult to do when you're talking about hand drills.

Ah, good to know. Thanks ya'll that will save some time.

Thanks for the info everybody. I think I might have multiple issues going on. The noise, I think, had grown really loud over a short period of time. Though it's hard to tell. I don't have years of experience with this vehicle so I don't have a good sense of how it should sound on the freeway. it's been noisy since I got it, but it's got snow tires on it and it's an old car so I know it's going to be louder than a newer vehicle just because of those two reasons. The noise was bad enough on the way into work this morning that I'm taking it off the road until I have the time/money to fix it. If it's just wheel bearings, I'm hoping that I haven't smashed the bearing seat out of round! I'll do some searching, but I'm imagining that I'm gonna need the inner and outer bearings and the appropriate seals. I don't have a press so I'll probably pull the hubs and take them to a shop and have them replace them for me. Thanks for the link Gary, I'll check it out. Will-