lostinthe202

Use a threaded insert. Go to Mcmaster.com and type in item number 93715A610 This is an M6 which you'll have to verify if it's the right size for you. The great thing about this kind is that unlike helicoils you don't need any special tools to install them. You will need a tap for the external thread of the insert, in this case an M10-1.25 which you can get from Mcmaster as well. Good idea on using a bad waterpump as a drill guide if you have one handy to help ensure your hole ends up in the right place. Good luck! Will-

Here ya go, looks like BobCad has some tutorial videos on their website. Youtube may have more. http://www.bobcad.com/support/videos

Having never used Bobcad before, I can't tell you anything specific to that program. But I can say that CAD programs only draw on a 1:1 scale. The object on the paper you actually print out can be scaled to anything you want, but while you're drawing, if you ask for 1" it gives you 1". That being said, the default for bobcad will be either inches or millimeters but I have no idea which. Take some time to go through the menus. Look for anything that says "units" under an options page or preferences page. Try using the "help" menu to find it. Many CAD programs have what looks like units of measure running up the side and bottom (or top) of the screen. I think these are to give you a rough idea of size when you first start your drawing. Usually when you are in a line command you'll see fields at the bottom of the screen for X and Y start and end values. For a circle you might see a X and Y center and a radius or diameter field. Again, look for some tutorials, maybe start at the website where you downloaded the program. Will-

Do you know where you want to go with your skills? Starting from square one, it doesn't matter too much about which CAD program you use, 2d or 3d. But as you start to apply the knowledge, you'll find there are fundamental differences that play big part in producing the drawings you want. For example, AutoCAD is great for architects but not so handy for 3d modeling of a complex system, like a gear box say, that a mechanical engineer might work on. As a machinist, I use AutoCAD a lot for anything 2d or to figure out a radius or angle because it's quick to use. But I also use Solidworks or ProE for anything with complex 3d geometry 'cause drawing 3d in AutoCAD is a PIA. I agree with the suggestions of getting a text for whichever program you decide to use. It's easy enough to get a start this way as the texts have tutorials that take you through the basic steps. Having a strong grasp of the basics of what is required to make a usable drawing is really important. It's easy to just start drawing lines and end up with sketch of what your going for. But do the lines actually meet? Are they perpendicular when required? Are lines horizontal or vertical when required, etc. Also, even if you draw it correctly, Gary has an excellent point about the difference between being able to draw something accurately and producing a usable drawing. A good example is a former student at the University where I used to work, he was quick with ProE (a 3d modeling software) top of his class etc. After he graduated he got a job with an outfit in Florida that makes large antenna arrays that deploy in space for communications. They put him to work on some stuff and when he brought his drawings to the boss, he got yelled at because they weren't usable drawing since they didn't have all the dimensions necessary to actually produce the part, no tolerances, no weld symbols and all the other details that makes a drawing usable. He was taught the program from a theoretical stance, where the drawings he made could be assembled into multi-part drawings that could be analyzed for proper movement, strength properties, etc. I know this is more information that you're probably looking for, but if you're goal is to eventually pick up some side work, or full time work, doing this stuff you'll need to know what is required of you. Above all and as with most skills, practice is the key to being good at it. Buy yourself a cheap pair of Chinese calipers from harbor freight or someplace and start drawing objects in your room. Learn to think in thousandths of an inch or tenths of a millimeter and learn how to draw objects with real dimensions. Good luck! Will- Good luck!

As it happens, I'd love to get my hands on an '87 GL if it's fuel injected. I have the mechanical know-how, but I'd have to read up on the electrical side of the swap. Where in The Bay are you? I'm in Oakland. Unfortunately, I don't have the off-street space for anything that would take longer than a weekend. But, properly prepared (all necessary parts/tools present) we could probably make the swap in that time. PM me if you're interested or email to driftingouttosea at hotmail dot com Will-

I say you go for the three year renewal. VA will prorate your remaining registration if you get another vehicle (I used to live there and have done it several times.) Congrats! Will-

I agree with bheinen74 100%. If it means any kind of expense or hassle to work with myface, then leave it out. I'm also with Nipper and Dave, what kind of figure are we looking at? I'm not as much of a participant in this forum as others, but it has been invaluable to me in keeping my Subarus on the road. I really love the "vibe" of this forum and the no-ad nature of this place has a lot to do with that. I also recognize that no ads means that somebody is paying for it out of pocket. I haven't even owned a Subaru for almost a year now (a situation I should be rectifying in a few weeks, and in my defense I did renew my membership even with my current Subaru deficiency) and I STILL come here to read up on stuff. I like the raffle idea though, I'm not sure what Subaru Bucks are. But a raffle as a fundraiser maybe, or a booth or something at WCSS where the sales go to the forum. Along the same lines, I see from time to time stuff people are selling where they "really just want shipping" or for it "to just go to a good home". Maybe a section where people can offer this stuff up for the cost of shipping (which would go to the seller) plus a fee or maybe a percentage or something that would go to the board. Will-

Interesting thread. Glad it worked out for you. I installed a TIE kit on my 2.2 during the time I had it and didn't have a problem. But I remember being aware that I might be "getting what I payed for" so to speak. I was willing to take the risk given the non-interference nature of my motor, but I'm glad to hear they're willing to stand behind their product. Will-

I agree on both counts. The stainless hardware you usually find in hardware stores is 18-8 stainless which is really weak stuff. Stronger stainless alloys are prohibitively expensive to stock at your neighborhood hardware. As Fairtax mentioned, anything with a corrosion resistant coating will do, remember that every other bolt on your car has just that. Some antisieze doesn't hurt either. Will-

Other than to flip it on ebay, doesn't seem like it's real useful to you. Looks like another case of the perfect thing at the wrong time, hate it when that happens!! Will-

There's also, http://www.car-part.com which is an internet service subscribed to by junkyards all over the country. You can sort by distance or price. Pretty handy. Will- *edit-- I noticed that they added a VIN lookup which is pretty neat. They also do cross referencing between multiple years which is really handy.

I would imagine 1mm per side to be plenty to get out hard spots and groves unless they run really deep. those hard spots are hell if you you're using a high speed tool. Carbide is the way to go, cuts right through it. I agree that turning rotors in an engine lathe is a fairly laborious setup compared to what it costs to have a shop with a brake lathe do it or buying new. But it is good exercise in 4 jaw chuck setup and indicator use. Will-

Looking good! Remember not to replace any graded bolt with those stainless ones which are usually made of 18-8 stainless which really isn't all that strong. Here's a chart a quick websearch turned up, there's probably better ones out there, http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx Will-

Unfortunately I can't help you with adjusting the hill holder as the first thing I did when I bought my Subaru was to unhook it. I found it to be a pain when I was parallel parking as it wouldn't let me "drift" back a bit if I was parking on a slope. In fact, when I first bought the car I didn't even know it existed. I remember discovering it for the first time on a hill start. I'm so used to having to overcome the additional inertia of the car rolling back for a sec before the clutch engages that I almost ran into the car in front of me! For all I know mine could have been out of adjustment as well, but I'd been driving 15 years without one at that point so I really didn't miss it. I would imagine that the hill holder cable adjusts in a similar way to the clutch cable, but whether you need to tighten or loosen it, i have no idea. Try using the "advanced" search option and do a search for "adjusting the hill holder" or some such phrase. Remember to sort your results by relevancy and also remember that if you find a post that has some information but not all of it, at the bottom of the screen will be links to "similar posts" which might have the info you're looking for. Good luck! Will-

Yes, it looks like you adjusted the clutch cable. The black metal bar that the cable in your first pic is connected to is called the clutch fork. This is what the cable uses to actuate the rest of the clutch mechanism. There are two nuts visible in front of the clutch fork in your first pic. The bigger of these two, the one closer to the fork, is the one that you would have adjusted that changed the feel of your clutch. The second nut is used to lock the larger nut in place so that it doesn't change its position over time. To get your clutch back to where it was you need to reverse whatever you did. Did your adjustment loosen or tighten the clutch fork? Put another way, did whatever adjustment you made make the black metal bar connected to the cable in your first pic wiggle more or less? My guess, since you were thinking the hill holder was too tight, is that you loosened that larger nut so that there was more wiggle. If that's the case, what you did was cause the "engagement point" to move closer to the floor meaning that as you let out the clutch, the engine starts to grab much closer to the floor. To get it back to where you want to be, you want that metal bar to have only just the slightest amount of back and forth wiggle. By that I mean, that you want it to move about 1/8 of an inch back and forth along the direction of travel of the cable. For reference, 1/8th of an inch is about about half the thickness of a CD case. Good luck! Will-

biggest one you can buy and some love from an angle grinder?

That's the beauty of fuel injection and computerized engine management. If you're careful, the ECU will keep the engine alive while you slowly let out the clutch. This helps you get a feel for where that engagement point is. After you do that a few times, then move up to giving some gas after you've gotten the car moving without it. The target is to be able to hit the clutch engagement point and apply the gas nearly simultaneously.

While I will qualify this by saying that I haven't actually done this swap so I can't really say for sure if the EA trans would stand up over time, what I can say is that the internals of an EA and EJ trans are nearly identical except for one major difference. The EA trans has better bearing support for the input shaft because if it's dual range nature. The dual range happens first thing so directly behind the input shaft seal is an additional bearing that the EJ doesn't have. The EJ cases have the space for a dual range setup since they sell a dual range EJ in other countries (AUS for one) but for us in the states, this leaves a lot of unsupported shaft which I believe can lead to early bearing failure depending on how you drive your car. I've read of plenty cases here, and experienced that first hand. And by early I'm talking around 100k miles. So that being said, if you stick with your current EA trans you may already have many more miles on it than if you found an EJ trans. I guess that makes it a bit of a toss up, but consider that you'd probably be fine with an EA trans with less than 200k with no known issues and you'd have less to do in terms of the swap. Good luck! Will-

Doesn't matter too much how you go about it at first. Just remember that the goal is to get the car moving while using no throttle. Obviously, you should do this on a totally flat grade. Once you've done that a few times, you'll start to feel how the torque of the motor gets the ball rolling, so to speak. Then start incorporating the gas pedal so that you can bring the clutch out faster and get moving sooner. Once you've got the hang of starting from a stop under normal conditions, try starting on some slight slopes. Being able to start on hills is a good skill to have. Good luck! Will-

The above is about what I'd advise. There's no magic bullet so to speak, just practice and experience. But yeah, the secret to a long lived clutch is getting through the engagement point as quickly as you can without jerking things around. Good luck! Will-

Funny, I always considered the pull-release the inferior setup. Anyone looking to steel your gas can open that door in seconds with a screwdriver leaving you with a mess to clean up. Plus you've got a cable that can get pinched or corroded which is it's own batch of problems. Lastly, the release is a plastic knob that interfaces with a metal tab, not a great long-term wear combo. But aesthetically I suppose the cable release is a bit cleaner.

If you can wait until the weekend, I might be able to help, you're not too far from me. I wouldn't be too afraid of it though. Get yourself a repair manual and read up on it here on the board. It's been covered a brazillion times. Use the "advanced" feature in the search window and do some searching. Will-

hehe, kind of. Moved out here for a job, moved back I should say as I'm from the area. Missin' the farm, but not the weather:grin:

I had a stubborn one like that on a Forester auto trans I pulled last year. The head was already rounded a bit and everything I tried just wouldn't get a good seat on it like you're describing. I ended up pulling the intake (actually just removing the 8 bolts and propping it up with a piece of wood) which lets you get a real straight shot at head with some extensions. loosening the intake isn't that big of a deal really, 8 bolts and you can leave everything hooked up and just lift the passenger's side up a few inches. I didn't replace the gaskets as they came off clean and didn't look bad, but I don't really know if that's acceptable to those who are more experienced with such things. Good luck! Will-

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