lostinthe202

Never heard of this one, how do bad motor mounts cause wheel bearing failure?

There's one listed on opposed forces' website, http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_24/carter_ventilation_recirculation/emission_control_egr/illustration_1/ But I don't know if that means every '97 2.2l had them. Subaru seems to be famous for sticking whatever they had on hand in the cars.

Not sure if this helps or not, but... Of the opposedforces website, http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s10/type_3/electronic/electrical_parts_body/illustration_1/

I've used those stainless flexible sections you can get from the auto parts store before that clamp in place with decent results. If welding is really out of the question you could maybe add some straps to help with flex. Those clamp in pieces work as long as they don't have to absorb too much flex, that's what takes them out eventually. Will-

It looks like he smeared Vaseline on the camera lens or something

Righty-O

I have an OEM ignition switch I bought for an ea81 hatch I had a couple years back that I never used. It's just the bottom portion so you'd need your key tumbler. If it's of use to you, it's yours part # 783131010 Will-

If it was "che" he'd have a snappy hat....

I agree. Besides, that "quiet" idler was that much quieter then the others.

Ah I see. So they were talking about the piston style tensioner and bracket. I heard him say the tensioner was superseded but he didn't say with what. So then the only difference between an earlier EJ timing kit and a 2000+ SOHC 2.5 kit is the tensioner/idler and presumably the belt since they are a 60k and 100k interval respectively.

Ah ha! I had read posts of people saying that the "old style" tensioner (96-99 DOHC type) was better to use because the new ones (2000+ SOHC) don't last as long. This video explains that it's the bracket that is the culprit and not the tensioner. Thanks for posting!! Will-

I've wondered about this given that what I had in my hand was a roll pin. But they seem to come out easier punching from the non-beveled side. Probably just psychosomatic

My '96 OBW would do a no-start every once in a while usually after it's been warmed up then shut off then I try to restart within 20 minutes. This happened several times before I finally got a CEL which read as a crank sensor. I bought one and was dragging my feet putting it in. Now 15k miles later it hasn't failed to start in months. I'll still change the sensor (especially since I already bought the sensor) but I'll let it ride for awhile longer. I'd read on here someplace that the failure of one or both of those sensors was common enough that the dealers sold them as a package for a good price. This wasn't true at my dealer so I don't know if you'd find the same thing, but my dealer here is kind of a prick so who knows. Good luck! Will-

+1 3/16" or 5mm pin punch, or Philips screwdriver with a 3/16" shaft or less

How does the pedal behave? Like is it spongy? or it feels normal it just doesn't release? If there aren't any weird noises of any kind, then perhaps you just need a new clutch cable? If you're nowhere near an auto parts store maybe you could take the adjustment nuts off altogether and put some spacers of some kind, like a stack of washers, behind it and see if that will let you limp home or to the parts store. Good luck!

Will it shift without using the clutch while the car is off? Any bad noises accompanying clutch operation?

At the risk of starting the age old "engine oil debate", why do you feel the need to add anything to the oil?

I could see that working. I've no idea what the tolerance is for the input shaft bearings. I made an adapter plate for a guy who was putting a Ford Mustang trans behind a Volvo engine and said the he couldn't have more then .005" runout or else the bearings would eat themselves fairly quickly. Again, that was for a track racing application so much higher rpm's and loads involved. But as you pointed out earlier, this is all armchair-engineering since we don't know for sure.

each one seems different. I too use a pin to align them and I've had some stay put and others that need a readjust a couple of times a year (in fact I was just noticing this on the Outback) I had thought of maybe squirting a little crazy glue in between the ball and socket to see if that would help it stick, but I never did decided that I didn't want to glue the hole shut and a readjust every several months was not that much of a pain. This could very well be a part that hasn't changed in design in the last 30 years, perhaps you could buy new ones from the dealer (they can't be expensive) and they would work? Will-

Sorry, should've been more clear. What I meant is that there isn't an easy way (that immediately came to mind) to merge the EA and EJ dowel pins relative to the center of the input shaft or crank. All of the template making schemes mentioned may work great for each side, but how do you get the two to agree with each other while maintaining the accuracy? That's the age-old problem with this kind of product for the budget-minded consumer and provider. Machine rates are high whether it be one piece by a manual machine or 1000 pieces by CNC. So speaking as a machinist, I'd say SJR's rates are pretty fair given what materials costs and the labor that is involved for short run laser cut part made in the USA. What you're paying for is the knowledge that the part is made correctly, something that you may not be able to accomplish on your own. What it comes down to is the question of whether you have more motivation and time than money? The swap can happen with average shop tools, but it will take time, patience, and perhaps a redo or two. I understand the balk at the "your time must not be worth much" comment. I get that all time. People look at me like I'm insane for "wasting" my time adapting an automatic 2000 Forester with 200k miles to a 5spd D/R from an RX. If I were paying a shop to do the work involved the cost would be astronomical. But it's not a fair comparison. Would you accuse an amateur musician of wasting her time practicing for hours on end to play a piece that she could've paid a few bucks to hear on a CD? I also see in that pic of SJR's plate that he's got the dowel pin locations for both EA and EJ locations, perhaps they just need to be reamed to size and you'd be ready to go?

I've seen a number (the majority) of adapter plates sold/made/used without the alignment dowel pins. I made one recently and since I had the capability to measure accurately (milling machine) I included the locating dowels in my plate. I did this because the dowels are responsible for keeping the engine and trans on the same centerline which prevents undue wear on all bearings concerned and since I'll be doing plenty of highway driving with this setup it seemed like a good idea. But I'm curious, how many miles and what kind of driving have people put on their undowel pinned adapter plates? Will-

The trouble is the dowel pins. These are important for locating the centerline of the engine and trans. I suppose it depends on how you intend to use the car. If it's just an offroad beater that won't see much highway use then it probably doesn't matter all that much, evidenced by the several people around the world (and on this board) that have ignored the dowels for their rigs and not had a problem. I'm putting an EA box in a Forester that I plan on using as a DD with a long commute so don't want to replace input and pilot bearings every few thousand miles. Could be that people have ignored the dowels and put lots of miles on them and not had a problem, I just don't know. Since I had the tools and capability, I factored the dowels in though I'm pretty curious what people's experience has been. Think I'll start a post about it. Will-

I've made an adapter plate for my EA/EJ project. I can email you a drawing with the dimension for the holes on it. That will get you a step closer. As GD mentioned you'll need to be very careful laying out the dowel pin hole locations, but you could do it with a drill press then cut out the rest with a jig saw. You'll need to buy (or borrow if you know the right people) a couple of reamers for the dowel pins, 8mm and 6mm I think. PM me your email address if you're interested. and +1 on using aluminum instead of steel if you're working with hand tools. it'll need to be 12mm thick plate. If you have a metal recycler, you can see if they have anything that fits the bill and save a few bucks that way. Will-

Righty-O, thanks for the replies. Will-

I'm doing a EA/EJ mish-mash, I can't for the life of me remember if the pressure plate bolts (m8x1.25x25mm or so) had lock washers. I remember using loctite, I think, but I just don't do enough of these to store that info in my head. Anyone? Thanks!! Will-