brokebill

also the coil i took off and the one i put on are both stamped "external resistor required" ??? thanks, Bill

for a condenser, i cant find the type that runs off the coil, through the condenser, then on to the frame. the only type i can find is the type that has 1 wire to hook to the coil then just mounts on the firewall, with no wire coming out of it to go to the frame. can i use this type or do i need something specific to my car? all i keep finding for my car is N/A or is this "condenser" just a noise suppressor for the radio? thanks, Bill

nah, it was the wires connecting to the coil terminals, retaped them

not finding one listed for my car (surprise, surprise) are they universal? or? thanks, Bill

would that be the little silver thing mounted on the coil bracket with a wire running through it from the coil then grounded at the frame ? thanks, Bill

started perfect the first few times, then hard hot starting returned (although dont seem to be as bad) ??????????????????? cheap coil, fluke? really confused now. thanks, Bill

ok, checked the resistance again and it read even lower. -- 0.2 and 7K let it warm up and laid an ice pack on the coil for about 10-15 min. and it fired right up. repeated it and it fired right up again. rode down to Napa and got one of the $16 cheapos and put it on and seems to be working fine now. months back, i got "bit" by the coil while messing with something near it. i had retaped any questionable wires and hadnt been shocked since while reaching around in that area, but it probably had grounded and messed it up back then . thanks, Bill

napa has the usual $40 - $50 coils but also have a $16 coil with the same part #'s(except has an SB on the end of the part #) considering trying the $16 cheapo to see if it makes a difference but hard to return electrical and hate to just throw $$ away. thanks, Bill

its an analog meter. yeah i did zero it out. its a ND distributor. doubtful its a original coil . it has the #27460 on it. that sound familiar to anybody? i've observed and manipulated the choke by hand and it does seem to be working ok, but i know there more to it than the naked eye can see. and .3 instead of 1.13 - 1.38 and 8K instead of 10.8K - 14.6K is acceptable? (i forgot to put the K in my first post) thanks, Bill

hard hot start after being cut off from 10 minutes - 2 hrs. first thing in the morning or within 5 minutes after shutting off, it starts fine. choke seems to be working fine, cts checked out ok (by my amateur meter testing) ,new air filter, plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor,fuel filter, pcv valve.... also running a little hotter than usual. used to never get above 1/2 on gauge and now tends to ride a little closer to the 3/4 mark under much load at all. thanks, Bill

ok, chasing my hard hot start problems and finally bought a little multimeter. i have never used one before. checked my coil, did i do it right? took the wires off the coil to check primary resistance i put 1 probe on the positive primary post and 1 probe on the negative primary post. should have read 1.13-1.38 but read about 0.3 or 0.4 to check secondary resistance i put 1 probe on the negative primary post and 1 probe where the distributor cap wire plugs into the coil. should have read 10.8-14.6 but read about 8.0 dont know how i've made it almost 40 years without using one before now but i have. does it sound like i did it right? any tips or advice on the subject appreciated. thanks, Bill

pulled the 2 lower panels off and had a good look and the clutch pedal wasnt making good contact with the switch. tight area to adjust switch so i just taped a couple nickels to the pedal to close the switch.maybe that will get it. what would the computer change if it thought here was no load on the engine (even though there was) due to the clutch switch not contacting? thanks, Bill

understod, but i cant find any info on the clutch switch (system) and what functions or systems its tied into. or what negative effects its failure would have on said systems. seems to be one of those subjects with little information available. seeking enlightenment, thanks, Bill

still showing a code 42. anybody?

went to advance this morning and had them get the parts off the shelf so i could look at them. looks like the $20 parallell 2 prong ones are the ones that go in the radiator. they are somewhat smaller than the T pronged cts. the T shaped 2 prongs cts were $75. be nice to find a cheaper alternative. i probably dont need one but anytime i think a part is failing i start looking since its so hard to locate correct applications. if i end up not needing a part, good. but if i do need it then or at a later time i've already done the research and have part #'s wrote down in a little notebook. thanks, Bill

shot some seafoam deep creep through the slow duty solenoid and hooked hose and connector back up and seems to be working ok. while looking around for cts i keep finding lots of wrong info. mine has the T shaped connectors. the only T shaped connector types i find are by looking under non 1986 applications (usually earler) and they cost $60-$80+++ i see a lot of 2 prong cts where the prongs are parallell instead of T shaped for $18-25. i know i need 2 prongs but do i need the T shaped connectors? can i just splice new connectors and use the 2 prong parallell type cts or are they for completely different applications? thanks, Bill

same problem(word for word, even where my timing is set) with my carbed 86, thought it was choke related but not so sure now. if anyone knows i would also like to find out about what coil i can use.(mine has the nippo. distributor) parts places have a lot of misinformation on our cars and sick of getting wrong parts. sorry to post on your thread but a common goal. thanks and please update on your car as you search/eliminate/repair Bill

ecs light was on , checked and got a code 42, clutch switch system. what does this mean? no new symptoms yet so..... thanks, Bill

oil in airbox, temperature riding just a little higher than usual (not much just a little) , and the tailpipe dont feel like it has the compression coming out of it that it should. sounds a little like a partially stopped up catalytic converter my wife had on an old firebird. also did the quarters in the air pump system today. nice trick. thanks, Bill

maybe if i unhook its vac hose & plug in the connector for the ECU's sake? thanks, Bill

jb weld held almost 2 weeks, but time to tap . is 7/16 the next size up or is that the same size it is now? just making sure i get the right tap & stud the first time since its probably stripped out prettty good. thanks,Bill

little plastic black filter cannister has a "patched" crack in the nipple, so could have possibly gotten contaminated. maybe a little deep creep seafoam down the in and out hoses and hope for the best. otherwise, probably just keep running with it unhooked and the main duty solenoid hooked and keep an eye on the plugs to see how it burns. i really do need a good book for the car, not just the Haynes one i have. thanks, Bill

when i connect the slow duty solenoid the car immediately idles very rough. disconnect it and it smooths back out. when i connect or disconnect the main duty solenoid i really cant tell any difference other than *maybe* it is a little smoother throughout driving range when connected. hard hot starting still exists regardless. why the extra rough idle with slow duty solenoid connected? what cleaning up, cleaning out procedures can be done to the duty solenoids? i know the thread is turning into another troubleshooting a hitachi feedback carb thread but ...... thanks, Bill

i'm not really qualified to give any advice, just suggestions based on my 3 year struggle to keep mine running. that being said, i'm not sure what your motors timing is supposed to be set at specifically so i cant give you specific numbers. but if you have the ability to check and reset the timing properly and accurately then i personally would try advancing it a couple degrees ahead of factor specs (as long as it dont make it ping) and see. made a world of difference in mine. especially if you have time to kill waiting on other parts anyhow. good luck Bill

may not be related, but mine had that flat spot in it the first couple years i had it (thought it was just the way the car ran) and i advanced the timing from 8^ to 10^ BTDC and it eliminated the flat spot and gave it lots more power. also the only gas i run is amoco (BP) 93 oct. hope it helps, thanks, Bill